Summary of Episode 95: Airplane Food
The Economics of Everyday Things
Hosted by Freakonomics Network & Zachary Crockett
Release Date: June 9, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 95 of The Economics of Everyday Things, host Zachary Crockett delves into the seemingly mundane yet surprisingly complex world of airplane food. Through conversations with industry experts and historical insights, the episode uncovers the intricate economics, logistical challenges, and evolving standards that shape what passengers eat at 35,000 feet.

The Evolution of Airplane Food

Historical Perspective

Zachary Crockett begins by tracing the origins of in-flight meals:

• Early Days (1920s-1930s):
  "Early commercial airplanes couldn't handle much extra weight, so meals were simple cold sandwiches and fruit, often served during refueling stops." (03:05)

• Post-World War II Golden Age:
  Guillaume de Sion, a history professor, explains, "After WWII, commercial flights became longer, like transatlantic routes, and food was used as a form of entertainment to enhance the passenger experience." (04:04)

Golden Age of Airline Cuisine

During this period, airline food was positioned as a luxury:

• Opulent Offerings:
  "We had roast beef, lobster tails, French pastries, and even six-course meals on Concorde jets, complete with fine china and white tablecloths." – Guillaume de Sion (05:03)

Economic Shifts and Cost-Cutting Measures

Deregulation Impact (1978 Onwards)

The deregulation of the airline industry marked a turning point:

• Focus on Low Fares Over Amenities:
  "After deregulation, airlines prioritized low ticket prices, leading to significant cost-cutting, especially in in-flight services like meals." (05:43)

• Examples of Cost-Cutting:
  Robert Crandall, former CEO of American Airlines, famously removed one olive from every salad, saving the airline $40,000 annually. As de Sion notes, "This was the beginning of a worldwide economic slowdown in the quality of airline food." (07:00)

Modern Airline Catering: Logistics and Scale

Outsourcing and Mass Production

Today's airline meals are typically outsourced to large catering companies:

• Gate Gourmet's Role:
  Chris Kinsella, Chief Commercial Officer for North America at Gate Group, explains, "We serve around 650 million passengers on more than 3.8 million flights every year, operating in 200+ locations across 60 countries." (07:57)

• Contractual Relationships:
  Catering companies like Gate Gourmet secure multi-year contracts with major airlines, managing everything from recipe design to meal transportation.

Cost Management

Managing costs is critical in airline catering:

• Pennies Add Up:
  "At our scale, even minor cost adjustments can lead to significant savings," says Kinsella (09:19).

Challenges in Serving Food at Altitude

Environmental Factors

Preparing and serving food in an airplane presents unique challenges:

• Taste Sensitivity:
  The dry air and reduced air pressure at high altitudes can dull taste buds by up to 30% for salty foods. Molly Brandt, Innovation Chef for North America at Gate Group, counters this by focusing on balanced flavors without simply adding more salt. "I incorporate acid, sweetness, spice, and umami to enhance flavor naturally." (14:28)

• Temperature Constraints:
  "Meals are fully cooked, chilled, and then reheated on the plane, which limits the types of dishes that can maintain quality." – Brandt (15:55)

Production and Logistics

Scaling up meal production involves complex logistics:

• Preparation Process:
  "We receive flight schedules weeks in advance, prepare and label meals accordingly, and transport them to airplanes via specialized trucks." (17:35)

• Ensuring Safety:
  Maintaining strict hygiene standards is paramount to prevent foodborne illnesses. Despite rigorous protocols, incidents like the 2004 Honolulu carrot contamination highlight ongoing risks. Kinsella emphasizes, "Safety is top of mind, especially during flight delays where retrieving loaded food is challenging." (19:09)

Current Trends and Passenger Experience

Premium vs. Economy Offerings

There is a stark contrast between meals served in premium cabins and economy:

• Premium Cabins:
  Business and first-class passengers enjoy more elaborate and higher-quality meals, reflecting their higher ticket prices. "There's a real focus on those premium cabins, allowing for better offerings even in economy on longer international flights," explains Kinsella (21:44).

• Economy Class:
  Most economy passengers now receive limited or no complimentary hot meals, often settling for snacks like pretzels or cookies. De Sion remarks, "We get what we pay for. I'm happy with my cheap ticket, even if the food isn't appetizing." (22:38)

Innovation in Meal Preparation

Chef Brandt discusses alternative methods to enhance flavor without increasing salt:

• Use of Umami and Natural Enhancers:
  "Incorporating umami and ingredients like mushrooms and shio koji helps create more flavorful dishes naturally." (15:01)

• Collaborations with Frozen Food Industry:
  "We draw inspiration from frozen food companies to overcome challenges related to reheating and maintaining texture." (16:15)

Conclusion

Airplane food has evolved from simple sandwiches to a complex industry balancing cost, quality, and logistical constraints. While premium cabins offer a step back into the golden age of in-flight dining, economy passengers often face limited options. Innovations in flavor enhancement and meal preparation continue to push the boundaries, striving to improve the passenger experience despite the inherent challenges of high-altitude dining.

Notable Quotes

• "After deregulation, airlines prioritized low ticket prices, leading to significant cost-cutting, especially in in-flight services like meals." – Zachary Crockett (05:43)

• "We serve around 650 million passengers on more than 3.8 million flights every year, operating in 200+ locations across 60 countries." – Chris Kinsella (07:57)

• "I incorporate acid, sweetness, spice, and umami to enhance flavor naturally." – Molly Brandt (14:28)

• "Safety is top of mind, especially during flight delays where retrieving loaded food is challenging." – Chris Kinsella (19:09)

• "There's a real focus on those premium cabins, allowing for better offerings even in economy on longer international flights." – Chris Kinsella (21:44)

This episode sheds light on the hidden complexities behind the meals served thousands of feet above the ground, revealing an intricate dance of economics, logistics, and culinary innovation that ensures passengers are fed safely and satisfactorily during their journeys.