
The market for gustatory pain is surprisingly competitive. Zachary Crockett feels the burn.
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Zachary Crockett
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Stephanie Walker
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Zachary Crockett
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Zachary Crockett
A few months ago, Ed Curry found himself lying down in the pouring rain in a state of agony. His heart was beating fast, his arms were numb and his mouth felt like it was on fire.
Ed Curry
The heat pain lasted for about two hours and then the cramps set in and that lasted for about four more to the point where it just couldn't even move. The cramps hurt so bad.
Zachary Crockett
Curry had brought this suffering upon himself. He had just tasted the fruit of his own labor, a hybrid chili pepper grown on his farm in South Carolina.
Ed Curry
It's about the size of a golf ball. It's covered in bumps and spikes and it just looks like an apple that has gone through a Frankenstein. The oil gives it kind of a yellowish Fleming tinge and it's just a brutal pepper.
Zachary Crockett
It's ugly this little nugget of pure torture is called Pepper X. It's up to a thousand times hotter than a jalapeno, and its kick is more powerful than most brands of police grade pepper spray. It recently set a Guinness world record for the hottest chili pepper ever measured in a lab. For Curry, Pepper X is the culmination of more than 20 years of cross breeding. Peppers aren't just his hobby, they're his livelihood. And the hotter they are, the better for business.
Ed Curry
By making things hotter, we can produce products that are in your grocery store right now at a cheaper cost. It's about economies of scale.
Zachary Crockett
For the Freakonomics Radio Network, this is the economics of everyday things. I'm Zachary Crockett. Today, the world's hottest peppers. Before Ed Curry was growing hot peppers, he was on a path to self destruction.
Ed Curry
I was a big, fat, sloppy drunk pig, and I was smoking two packs of cigarettes a day, drinking all day long. I straight liquor from, you know, probably five in the morning all the way through till about midnight and doing whatever drugs I could get my hands on.
Zachary Crockett
As he tells it, one day in 1982, he ventured into a Vietnamese restaurant in Michigan where he was living at the time, and asked for the spiciest food they had. The peppers they served him gave him an unexpected rush.
Ed Curry
The buzz I got from eating the super hot stuff, you know, the endorphin rush that got me started on my journey.
Zachary Crockett
Curry started chasing a new high, the high of spicy chili peppers.
Ed Curry
I was writing letters to all these different government agencies around the world saying, I'd like some pepper seeds. You know, I'm studying peppers. And they'd send letters back. Different peppers from India, different peppers from the Middle east and Africa, stuff from South America and Central America and the islands.
Zachary Crockett
Curry eventually took a job in finance. But growing peppers with all those seeds was his true passion. And in his circle of friends, he became known as a culinary sadist.
Ed Curry
The running joke was, if Ed says, try this, don't do it.
Zachary Crockett
Thousands of years ago, chilies were a staple of food and medicine throughout Central and South America. After Christopher Columbus took seeds back to Europe at the end of the 15th century, peppers spread around the world, and what people liked about them was always their kick.
Stephanie Walker
It's the only truly healthy addiction that I can think of. When you eat peppers, you're hurting yourself, and the body naturally reacts to that by producing endorphins.
Zachary Crockett
That's Stephanie Walker. She's a professor at New Mexico State University who has studied chili peppers for more than 35 years. She says there's a common misconception that the heat in peppers comes from the seeds, but it actually comes mostly from chemicals stored in the placenta, that whitish core that's inside of the pepper.
Stephanie Walker
It's a very unique set of chemicals known as the capsaicinoids. And depending on the type of pepper and how hot it is, they're going to have different complements of these capsaicinoids.
Zachary Crockett
There are six different capsaicinoids in total, but the one that tends to impart the most heat is simply called capsaicin. When you eat a pepper, this capsaicin binds to receptors in your mouth. And those receptors send a signal to your brain that basically says, what the hell are you doing?
Stephanie Walker
It's the same receptors in our mouth that sense thermal heat. So you're actually getting the same sensation as if you burn yourself eating some very hot soup or very hot coffee.
Zachary Crockett
Researchers measure this heat in something called Scoville heat units. You might see that term on bottles of hot sauce or packets of seeds. It's a way to quantify just how much capsaicin is in a pepper. The peppers in your grocery store have quite a wide range.
Stephanie Walker
A jalapeno is typically around 5,000 Scoville heat units, although that can be lower or higher depending on the environmental conditions. A typical habanero pepper is about 300,000 Scoville heat UN.
Zachary Crockett
For many years, experts thought that 500,000 Scoville heat units was about as hot as a pepper could possibly get. But in 2001, one of Walker's colleagues at New Mexico State University stumbled across a pepper in India called the bhoot Jolokia. It was so hot that it would later be used by India's military to make non lethal hand grenades. To the Western world, it became known as the ghost pepper.
Stephanie Walker
That was more than a million Scoville heat units. He got the Guinness Book of World Records for the hottest pepper. And then let the games begin.
Zachary Crockett
After the ghost pepper got the world's attention, breeders, some professional, others, hobbyists, began to compete for the title of the world's hottest pepper. Records were set and broken again and again, sometimes just months later. Peppers with names like the Infinity Chili, the Naga Viper, and the Trinidad Scorpion, Butch Tea pushed heat levels into the realm of torture. This new wave of peppers was given a super hot.
Stephanie Walker
So a super hot is a type of pepper, the General category above 1 million Scoville heat units. They're definitely too hot for many people, but there is a segment of the population that just really loves these super Hot, extremely high Scoville heat unit peppers.
Zachary Crockett
That includes Ed Curry.
Ed Curry
I get a buzz from eating peppers. I eat stuff that normal people won't even go near. I'm getting a huge dopamine drop from, you know, eating really super hot stuff.
Zachary Crockett
For most of the 80s and 90s, Curry's peppers took a backseat to his drinking problem.
Ed Curry
I was more interested in getting to the bar at lunchtime and getting out of work and going to the bar at dinner.
Zachary Crockett
But by the early 2000s, he had gone through rehab. He worked in a video store, a butcher shop, and eventually, he was pulled back into the world of chili peppers by love.
Ed Curry
I saw a woman, and every time I saw her, my stomach felt sick and my chest felt tight. So I whipped up some peach mango salsa for this event we were having, and she said, who made the salsa? And we started talking. She moved me into her house, like, four months later, and within two weeks of that, I had 1100 plants growing in her yard.
Zachary Crockett
Curry sold hot sauce and salsa at farmers markets in South Carolina. The reaction was so good that he decided to make his business official.
Ed Curry
It became the Pucker Butt Pepper company because everybody said when they eat my stuff, it made their butt pucker, you know?
Zachary Crockett
Curry's pepper growing operation eventually expanded to a dedicated farm. He grew dozens of different types of peppers from all over the world and crossbred his own varieties by transferring pollen between peppers.
Ed Curry
I wasn't looking to make something hot, but it turned out that these breeds I was doing were getting hotter and hotter and hotter because of the parents that I was using in the breeds.
Zachary Crockett
One of these new breeds in particular stood out. He called it the Carolina Reaper.
Ed Curry
The first time I had, they knocked me to my knees, you know, it was blazing hot. It was the first time I felt like I was high. After I got clean.
Zachary Crockett
Curry knew he had something special on his hands. So in 2013, he took it to a local university and had it tested. It clocked in at an average of 1.64 million Scoville heat units. That was a new world record, and it stood for the next 10 years. So what exactly is a world record setting pepper worth? That's coming up.
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Zachary Crockett
There's never been a better time to grow the world's hottest peppers. For starters, there's a thriving community of super hot pepper enthusiasts who call themselves Chili Heads. They convene in Facebook Groups with names like Pepper Freaks, they make viral videos of themselves crying after eating peppers. And they attend pepper eating contests where competitors with nicknames like Iron Guts and Atomic Menace choke down hundreds of superhots in one sitting.
Ed Curry
On all the pepper groups, the people who supposedly eat super hot stuff, there's maybe 50 to 100,000 people worldwide.
Zachary Crockett
But that might not seem like enough people to support farmers like Ed Curry. Fortunately, there's another market for their peppers, the $3 billion hot sauce business. When manufacturers make sauces, they start with a concoction called mash. It's basically diced peppers and salt. And on their end, there's a business case for buying mash made with the hottest peppers in the world.
Ed Curry
With the very hot stuff, there's an economy of scale. So you can use just a little bit, get the flavor, get the heat. They figure out that they can switch one 5 gallon bucket of Carolina Reaper for ten 55 gallon drums of salt mash and get the same heat profile.
Zachary Crockett
Curry's company, Puckerbutt, sells mash wholesale to more than 100 companies. It also produces its own line of hot sauces and helps other brands develop them too. One of the more well known entities that Curry works with is Hot Ones. It's a popular YouTube show where celebrities get interviewed while eating increasingly spicier hot wings.
Ed Curry
We make their mildest sauces and we make their hottest sauces. You know, there's recipes that I came up with that we manufacture and their label goes on it and they sell it all over the world to produce.
Zachary Crockett
All of this sauce. Curry now runs more than 100 acres of pepper farmland in South Carolina, and He grows nearly 8,000 varieties of peppers. He says Puckerbutt isn't quite at the top of the hot sauce kingdom, but it's up there.
Ed Curry
We're probably the largest, small tier, you know, middle tier hot sauce maker in the country. I mean, there's the big boys like Tabasco and Frank's and, you know, Cholula. The step below them were probably the biggest.
Zachary Crockett
Hot sauce isn't the only market for hot peppers. Curry also sells pepper seeds that end up at Lowe's, Home Depot, and Walmarts all over the country. The margins on those seeds are so good that one food historian says hot chili peppers have the potential to rival marijuana as the highest grossing crop per acre altogether. Curry says Puckerbutt now brings in north of $5 million in sales a year. It's a lucrative business, and that means that Curry has to be very protective of his creations. You can get a patent on a novel plant variety, but it can cost upwards of $25,000. And even with legal protection, Stephanie Walker says, it's hard to prevent theft after you patent it.
Stephanie Walker
You have to have the legal muscle to protect it. And that can be a big problem for a small scale breeder. If you're selling the peppers with seed intact and you haven't heated them or killed the seed in any way inside, you can easily get viable seed from red chili that's just been naturally dried.
Zachary Crockett
After Curry set a world record with his Carolina Reaper pepper, he says his peppers began showing up in dozens of products without authorization.
Ed Curry
You know, companies do what they do, and essentially when we reached out to them, they all said, sue us. And they thought they could out sue me to the point where some companies took us to court to try to get my trademarks revoked.
Zachary Crockett
One product that used the Carolina Reaper name was the Pocky One Chip challenge. It was a little coffin shaped box containing a single extremely spicy chip. And eating one became a viral challenge for kids on the Internet. In September 2023, a 14 year old boy died after partaking in the challenge and the product was taken off the market. Curry had originally partnered with Pocky, but at the time of this incident, Curry. He says the Carolina Reaper seasoning the company promoted was no longer provided by Puckerbutt. Paki did not respond to our request for comment. Recently, Curry broke his own world record with a new pepper. He calls it Pepper X. At just under 2.7 million Scoville heat units, it has to be handled with gloves. This time around, Curry intends to protect his intellectual property.
Ed Curry
I didn't listen to the lawyers when I released the seeds for the Carolina Reaper. I was trying to get some money in the bank, but I listened to the lawyers. Now we're going through a process with some universities to patent the pepper, and so everything is locked down before we release it to the rest of the world. I want to protect my children, okay, because this is their legacy.
Zachary Crockett
But for Curry, peppers aren't just a legacy. They're a way of life.
Ed Curry
You're either gonna fight this and go through the pain and get to the next side, or you're gonna run away and only feel the pain. You know?
Zachary Crockett
After eating Pepper X for the first time, lying down in the rain, and enduring stomach cramps for four hours, there was only one thing that Ed Curry wanted to do.
Ed Curry
I ate more peppers at dinner that night. Cause I'm an I.D.
Zachary Crockett
For the economics of everyday things. I'm Zachary Crockett.
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This episode was produced by Sarah Lilly and mixed by Jeremy Johnston.
Zachary Crockett
We had help from Daniel Moritz Rapson. Have you ever accidentally touched your eye or peed after handling a pepper?
Ed Curry
I've done both on multiple occasions every week and it's not a pleasant experience.
Stephanie Walker
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In this episode, journalist Zachary Crockett digs deep into the quirky, fiery world of superhot chili peppers and the surprising economics behind them. Through the story of Ed Curry—a once down-and-out addict turned chili pepper magnate—the show explores why the demand for outrageously spicy peppers has exploded, how a global community of "Chili Heads" is driving innovation, the business of hot sauces and seeds, and the sometimes messy reality of intellectual property in agriculture. The episode features rich insights from Curry and pepper scientist Stephanie Walker, tracing both the science and the high-stakes market behind the world’s hottest peppers.
"The buzz I got from eating the super hot stuff, you know, the endorphin rush—that got me started on my journey."
—Ed Curry (04:02)
"The running joke was, if Ed says, try this, don’t do it."
—Ed Curry (04:46)
"It actually comes mostly from chemicals stored in the placenta, that whitish core that’s inside of the pepper."
—Stephanie Walker (05:21)
"[The ghost pepper] was more than a million Scoville heat units...and then let the games begin."
—Stephanie Walker (07:25)
The Chili Head Community:
Economics of Hot Sauce:
"With the very hot stuff, there’s an economy of scale...They can switch one 5-gallon bucket of Carolina Reaper for ten 55-gallon drums of salt mash."
—Ed Curry (15:37)
Selling Seeds:
"If you’re selling the peppers with seed intact...you can easily get viable seed from red chili."
—Stephanie Walker (17:55)
"I want to protect my children, okay, because this is their legacy."
—Ed Curry (19:35)
"You’re either gonna fight this and go through the pain and get to the next side, or you’re gonna run away and only feel the pain."
—Ed Curry (20:07)
"I ate more peppers at dinner that night. Cause I’m an I.D."
—Ed Curry (20:29)
"I’ve done both [touched my eyes and peed after handling peppers] on multiple occasions every week and it’s not a pleasant experience."
—Ed Curry (21:02)
Ed Curry:
Stephanie Walker:
This episode offers a fascinating, flavor-packed look into a corner of the food world you may never have thought twice about. It’s equal parts personal redemption story, science lesson, and business case study. You’ll learn why “hurting yourself” with chili peppers is a passion—and a billion-dollar business—how the world’s hottest peppers are bred and named, who’s making money from them, and all the drama and pain (physical and legal) that comes with being on the cutting edge of spicy innovation. Whether you’re a "Chili Head" or a total spice wimp, you’ll leave with a new appreciation for the economics—and the endurance—behind the humble hot pepper.