Momofuku Ando is the father of Instant Ramen. Feeding Japan after the war. But how do you get Americans to eat it?

Dave Young:

Welcome to The Empire Builders Podcast, teaching business owners the not-so-secret techniques that took famous businesses from mom-and-pop to major brands. Stephen Semple is a marketing consultant, story collector and storyteller. I’m Stephen’s sidekick and business partner, Dave Young. Before we get into today’s episode, a word from our sponsor, which is … well, it’s us, but we’re highlighting ads we’ve written and produced for our clients. So here’s one of those.

[AirVantage Heating & Cooling Ad]

Dave Young:

Welcome to the Empire Builders Podcast. I’m Dave Young. Stephen Semple’s right there standing by, and he just told me what we’re going to be talking about and, man, it took me back to college days. In fact, I was looking at photos over the weekend. I have some photos of when I was in college, and this is way back 20 years before the turn of the century, to tell you how long ago this is.

Stephen Semple:

I hate how you put it that way.

Dave Young:

This is 20 years before the turn of the century. That’s a lifetime ago. But there were days in college where it’s like, “Well, gosh, Mom and Dad haven’t sent me any money and I haven’t gotten the job that I told myself I’d get,” so you go to the store, and what do you find? It’s either ramen or, if you want an upgrade, Cup O’ Noodles. And the Cup O’ Noodles, as everyone that’s ever been poor knows, is a noodle soup in a cup, and you take the lid off, put some water in it, throw it in the microwave, voila. Am I right? Is that what we’re talking about, or is this some new form?

Stephen Semple:

No, no, that’s what we’re talking about. That’s what we’re talking about, not some new Tesla called Cup O’ Noodles. No, no, you’re right, but I want you to hold onto that thought of it as being an upgrade from ramen, because we’re going to revisit that.

Dave Young:

Not an upgrade?

Stephen Semple:

We’re going to revisit that whole idea, because that’s brilliant. It was started in the 1950s and it was a new idea then, but today there’s over a hundred billion servings of instant noodles eaten every year. And it’s estimated that Cup O’ Noodles sells between 18 and 25 billion servings a year. It’s inside of a larger organization, so it’s hard to know exactly, but that’s the estimates I’ve come across.

Dave Young:

Dude, that’s like feeding the planet three times in one day.

Stephen Semple:

Right? Isn’t that crazy?

Dave Young:

Yeah.

Stephen Semple:

So, empire? Yeah.

Dave Young:

Yeah. There’s some guy sitting on top of that noodle money somewhere, and I guess we’re going to hear the story.

Stephen Semple:

So in the 1950s in the United States, food is boring. Eating out was like literally going to diners, and international food really only existed in big cities that had Chinatowns.

Dave Young:

Yeah.

Stephen Semple:

And, following World War II, there was actually a strong anti-Asian feeling in the United States. Meanwhile, back in Osaka, Japan, there’s a food crisis after the war because basically Japan has been decimated, and bread is being distributed by the U.S. and it’s really plentiful, but people wanted more traditional meals.

Dave Young:

They’re not used to bread.

Stephen Semple:

Right. It’s not part of what they normally eat. So Momofuku Ando is a 48-year-old businessperson. He’s lost his company. He went to jail for tax evasion. All sorts of bad things went on, but he’s out of jail and he’s looking to start his new business, and he sees people lined up for ramen, so there is a ramen tie in here.

Dave Young:

There you go, yeah. Just to be fair, I wasn’t talking about ramen from a store or from a vendor. I’m talking about those little bricks of Top Ramen.

Stephen Semple:

Yeah, yeah. Hold onto that. Hold onto that thought. We are going to come back to that, yes. So, ramen was created when noodles basically came over from China, and 1910 is the earliest record we could find of a ramen shop in Japan, so it looked like it was around 1910.

Dave Young:

Yep. The Japanese didn’t have noodles till 1910?

Stephen Semple:

They didn’t have the type of noodles in ramen, yes.

Dave Young:

Okay. See, I mean, we could go a whole nother direction on this if you wanted to, in the Japanese industrialization of them going around the world and bringing all kinds of new technology back to Japan in the early 1900s.

Stephen Semple:

Yes.

Dave Young:

Turns out, including noodle technology.

Stephen Semple:

Including noodle technology, and we forget how closed Japan was.

Dave Young:

Oh, yeah. Yeah.

Stephen Semple:

Basically, the only thing that was imported was silk. Right? That was about it. Very, very closed economy, and then yes, lots of … And when things changed in Japan, boy, they changed in a hurry. It went from basically medieval to industrial in like, that. It was crazy.

Dave Young:

Yeah.

Stephen Semple:

Yeah.

Dave Young:

I mean, you and I are both whiskey fans, and we know that the story of Japanese whiskey is the same story. The Japanese guy goes to Scotland, falls in love with Scotch whiskey, figures out how to make it, comes back to Japan and builds the Japanese whiskey industry.

Stephen Semple:

Yeah.

Dave Young:

Let’s go back to noodles. I’m sorry. I will distract us all day long.

Stephen Semple:

No, but it is an interesting thing. Now, the main drawback to ramen is it’s hard to make at home. The noodles need to be fresh. They’re hand-cut. They’ve got to come from shops. And so what Momofuku decides is he wants to make a ramen product that is tasty, non-perishable, easy to make, affordable, and ready in five minutes with hot water.

Dave Young:

Wow.

Stephen Semple:

That’s his goal.

Dave Young:

That’s a goal.

Stephen Semple:

On top of that, he has no culinary training. So he invests every last penny into this, because he needs something he can put into a grocery store as well on the non-perishable, because there’s few refrigerators or ovens in Japan at this time.

Dave Young:

Okay, yeah.

Stephen Semple:

And the key is the broth, and it can take days to make the broth. So here was his question. If everyone loves ramen, why is it so hard to make? And so he tries drying the noodles, then he gets the broth dried into the noodles, and he spends several years working on this and nothing seems to work. And one day, he notices his wife tempura-frying food and the batter dehydrates immediately the moment it hits the oil, because what does oil do? Removes water. So now what he does is he drops the noodle into this high-heat oil, and it creates a shell. He then takes fresh noodles, cooks them in the broth until it’s saturated, drops it into the oil, and the water is cooked out. It works.

Dave Young:

Wow.

Stephen Semple:

It works. He’s now got this dried noodle. Now he needs to get it in the store. So he starts with chicken ramen, and that’s more expensive. It’s about six times the price of regular ramen, but what he finds is people are willing to pay for the convenience. So in 1961, it hits stores in Osaka and it sells like crazy, and it’s called Magic Ramen by customers.

Dave Young:

Magic Ramen. I like that.

Stephen Semple:

Yeah, and he gets to the point where he borrows a million yen to open a factory. In the first year they’re doing 13 million packages, and the second year, 50 million packages a year. Now, to put that in perspective, 50 million packages a year, the TV dinners at that time is one half the number of sales of the amount of ramen that they’re selling in Japan, of this instant ramen.

Dave Young:

Wow. Okay.

Stephen Semple:

It’s 1962, and this idea is getting very copied. There’s now 70 companies in the space in Japan in a few short years. And some are also cheaper and the economy in Japan is still recovering, so Momofuku decides he’s going to spend a couple of million bucks and he’s going to bring this product to the United States.

Dave Young:

Okay.

Stephen Semple:

Now, the timing is really bad. In 1968, there’s a hoax letter written to the New England Journal of Medicine by Dr. Kwok that MSG is unsafe and The New York Times reports on it, and this becomes a placebo effect on all Chinese food.

Dave Young:

What year was this?

Stephen Semple:

’68.

Dave Young:

’68, okay.

Stephen Semple:

The letter was written on a bet by Dr. Howard Steele, who was a pediatric who was having a hard time getting published, and there was this bet that, “Oh, I bet you if you wrote something this way, it would get published,” so he creates this hoax and it gets published.

Dave Young:<...