Dennis Basso on NYFWs past and present: Showing at Bryant Park was 'validation’

Summary

The Glossy Podcast: Dennis Basso on NYFW’s Past and Present – A Detailed Summary

Release Date: February 8, 2025

In this engaging episode of The Glossy Podcast, host Jill Manoff sits down with renowned New York City-based designer Dennis Basso. With nearly two decades of showcasing at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and upcoming presentations for his Fall 2025 collection, Basso offers invaluable insights into the evolving landscape of fashion, the significance of NYFW, and his distinctive approach to design and business.

---

Introduction

Jill Manoff (Host):
“Thanks so much for being here.” [00:05]

Jill introduces Dennis Basso, highlighting his long-standing presence at NYFW since 2007 and his illustrious career spanning various iconic venues in New York City. Basso expresses his excitement about the upcoming fashion week, emphasizing how swiftly time passes in the fashion industry.

Current Season Preparations

As Fashion Week approaches, Basso shares the behind-the-scenes hustle:

Dennis Basso:
“We are, you know, in this full, full steam ahead, so to speak.” [00:57]

He details the meticulous process of selecting models, coordinating accessories, and initiating alterations to ensure perfection for the runway. The preparation underscores the dedication required to present a flawless collection.

Theme: Celebrating the New York Woman

Basso delves into the essence of his current collection:

Dennis Basso:
“The New York woman is something else because she's daring, she's practical, and she's glamorous, and she owns her look.” [01:48]

He celebrates the multifaceted nature of the New York woman, tracing her evolution from the 1930s to the present. Basso’s theme captures the diversity and resilience of women in the city, highlighting their ability to blend high fashion with practicality.

Evolution of Venues and Community at NYFW

Reflecting on his journey, Basso recounts his experiences across various NYFW venues:

Dennis Basso:
“I've sort of run the full gamut.” [04:28]

From the Regency Hotel ballroom and Studio 54 in the '80s to the Palladium and St. Regis in later years, Basso's trajectory mirrors the transformation of NYFW venues. His first show at Bryant Park stands out as a pivotal moment:

Dennis Basso:
“Showing at Bryant Park was like a validation.” [05:03]

Being among giants like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein at Bryant Park affirmed his place in the fashion elite, fostering a strong sense of community and camaraderie.

Impact of 9/11 on Fashion Week

The conversation shifts to the profound effects of 9/11:

Dennis Basso:
“I was there during 9/11 in 2011.” [06:38]

Basso shares how the tragedy impacted the fashion community, highlighting the unity and resilience that emerged in its aftermath. The shared experience at Bryant Park during such challenging times reinforced the tight-knit nature of the industry.

Shifts in the Fashion Industry

Discussing the current state of the fashion community, Basso observes:

Dennis Basso:
“Everyone is doing what's right for them and what's right for their company and for their creativity.” [07:03]

He notes the diversification within the industry, with some designers opting for exclusive appointment-only shows while others host extravagant, multi-million-dollar presentations. This independence fosters a dynamic and evolving fashion landscape.

Innovative Collection Presentation

Breaking away from traditional runway shows, Basso announces his interactive presentation:

Dennis Basso:
“They're going to be in vignettes. So you're going to be able to stand there almost museum-like.” [07:43]

Set in a historic 1890 townhouse, the presentation will feature themed vignettes, offering attendees an immersive and intimate experience. This innovative approach aims to provide a deeper connection between the audience and the collection.

Education and Business Partnerships

Basso emphasizes the importance of education and strategic partnerships:

Dennis Basso:
“Higher education is so important. So no matter what your field is...I think FIT is an amazing school.” [09:30]

Acknowledging his time at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and his close relationship with Dr. Brown, Basso underscores how formal education and mentorship have been instrumental in shaping his career and business acumen.

Diversification through QVC

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around Basso’s long-term collaboration with QVC:

Dennis Basso:
“I've been on QVC for 31 years.” [11:35]

Launching his "Dennis by Dennis Basso" collection on QVC allowed him to reach a broader audience, blending high-end fashion with accessible designs. This diversification has not only funded his creative endeavors but also built a loyal customer base across America.

Customer Loyalty and Business Challenges

Basso reflects on the importance of maintaining relevance and staying current:

Dennis Basso:
“The greatest challenge is you want to stay current, you want to stay modern, you want to be able to be out there.” [13:12]

He discusses the balance between preserving the brand’s heritage and adapting to contemporary trends, highlighting recent successful campaigns, including collaborations with Martha Stewart.

Distribution Channels

Expanding his global footprint, Basso elaborates on his distribution strategies:

Dennis Basso:
“We have a boutique in Harrods...various shops all around Europe and America.” [13:45]

In addition to a strong presence on QVC, Basso’s collections are available in prestigious boutiques like Harrods and through trunk shows in locations such as Palm Beach and Switzerland, ensuring a diverse and international clientele.

Style Evolution Post-Pandemic

Addressing the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on fashion:

Dennis Basso:
“We learned how to pare things down and still get everything done.” [14:44]

The pandemic prompted a shift towards more versatile and comfortable fashion. Basso notes a resurgence in dressing up, with trends leaning back towards elegant dresses, blazers, and statement pieces, signaling a return to glamour post-lockdowns.

Celebrity and Influencer Engagement

Basso reminisces about the high-profile attendees of his shows:

Dennis Basso:
“We've had everyone from Joan Collins to Diana Ross.” [16:16]

His shows have consistently attracted celebrities and influencers, enhancing the brand’s visibility and prestige. Collaborations include outfitting Meryl Streep for The Devil Wears Prada and catering to stars like Catherine Zeta-Jones and Renee Zellweger.

Blending Couture and QVC Collections

Basso’s unique approach involves integrating couture pieces with his QVC line:

Dennis Basso:
“I blend them in so you're never quite sure what's what.” [17:51]

This strategy caters to the diverse tastes of the American woman, allowing for a seamless mix of high fashion and accessible styles, embodying the versatility and confidence of his clientele.

Social Media and Personal Presence

Maintaining a strong personal and social media presence, Basso remains actively engaged with his audience:

Dennis Basso:
“I'm on [QVC] once a week.” [18:53]

His consistent interaction through television and social media platforms ensures a direct connection with customers, fostering loyalty and brand affinity.

Conclusion

The episode concludes with Basso’s enthusiasm for the upcoming show:

Dennis Basso:
“I look forward to seeing you on Tuesday.” [19:21]

His invitation to the audience underscores his commitment to creating an inclusive and engaging fashion experience, blending tradition with innovation.

---

Key Takeaways:

• Legacy and Innovation: Dennis Basso seamlessly integrates his rich history in NYFW with innovative presentation methods, reflecting both tradition and modernity.

• Community and Resilience: The fashion community’s sense of camaraderie, especially during challenging times like 9/11, highlights the industry's resilience and unity.

• Diversified Business Model: Basso’s collaboration with QVC exemplifies successful diversification, enabling broader reach and sustained growth.

• Adaptability: Navigating changes brought by the pandemic, Basso adapts his designs and business strategies to remain relevant and appealing.

• Celebrity Endorsements: High-profile collaborations and consistent presence among celebrities bolster the brand’s prestige and visibility.

• Educational Foundations: Emphasizing the importance of formal education and mentorship, Basso highlights how foundational knowledge and relationships are crucial in building a successful fashion career.

Dennis Basso’s insights offer a comprehensive look into the intricate balance of creativity, business acumen, and community spirit that drives success in the ever-evolving world of fashion.

Transcript

[A]

Thanks for tuning in to this New York Fashion Week edition of the Glossy podcast. I'm your host, Jill Manoff, and today I'm sitting down with Dennis Basso, the New York City based designer who started showing at New York fashion week in 2007 and will again be presenting a new collection this season. As Dennis is approaching. Not quite there yet. 20 years of Runway shows and had the privilege of showing at Bryant park for a few seasons. I wanted to ask him about his favorite Fashion Week memories and the biggest changes he's experienced over the years. I'm also hoping for a sneak peek into his plans for presenting his fall 2025 collection. Welcome, Dennis. Thanks so much for being here.

[B]

I'm delighted to be here. How are you? This is exciting. I can't believe Fashion Week is upon us one more time. It just seems to go so quickly.

[A]

We're back again. I can't believe you're making time for me during the actual week of your show.

[B]

Well, actually, right outside this little office I'm sitting in, there's 30,000 square feet of people selling and doing and finding, and we're waiting for buttons and whatnot. And we are, you know, in this full, full steam ahead, so to speak.

[A]

Crunch time. Where are we? Are your models already booked or. That's still to happen.

[B]

So. So no, we had, we had our first round of go see. Tomorrow we're doing looks, and Thursday we will decide who's going to wear what with what, what shoe and what earring and what bag and etc. Etc. And then we'll start the alterations because it takes a few days to make it perfect.

[A]

Oh, no doubt. Well, I'm, I'm just gonna jump in and see what, see what I can get out of you. I saw that your, your theme was celebrating fashion in the city. Tell me about that theme and, and what we can expect.

[B]

Well, I think it's important. You know, I've done my, my inspiration theme has been, you know, all parts, but I thought New York City. The New York City woman, she is a very special woman. For many years, going back and back, all the fashion, I think the inspiration from the runways was always, you know, Paris and Milan. And I thought New York, really, the New York woman is something else because she's daring, she's practical, and she's glamorous, and she owns her look. And if you look at that right through the decades, and I'm talking about from the 30s and 40s and 50s and 60s and straight through, she's evolved. And I thought, well, how exciting to look at 20, 25 and think of that iconic New York woman who's 70 and think she's 40 and the 40 year old and she's 25 and everybody's in another age bracket and creating their look and they're feeling with fashion. And I've, you know, focused on that. It's exciting.

[A]

I'm in that 40s who thinks they're in their 20s bucket.

[B]

Exactly. And I'm in the other group thinking I'm 40.

[A]

But anyway, I love it. Well, exciting. Well, you. Have you been doing this consistently since 2007? Maybe there were like the pandemic times. I know some people like a show wasn't even possible, but have you thought it worthy of your investment for all these years?

[B]

You know, I like doing this show and we, we've done all different types of shows in this show particularly it's a. Not a Runway show, but I'm doing an interactive presentation in a townhouse that was built in 1890, which was part of that whole world of New York. There was that television show called the Gilded Age.

[A]

Yes.

[B]

This house was right near where that took place. So I thought how iconic to create and have vignettes with the models and groups all through this mansion sort of representing New York. So that's a fun experience. Whether it was Bryant park and the tents or Lincoln center or I've shown over the years. Gosh. My first collection was in 1983. My first show was at the Regency Hotel ballroom on Park Avenue. Then I showed at Studio 54 and then I showed at the Palladium and I showed it all the Limelight, all these disco techs in the 80s and 90s. And then we went to the Pierre and the Plaza and the St. Regis, a private club. So I mean, I've sort of run the full garment.

[A]

Oh my gosh. I didn't know all of that. I did know that you had a collection prior to your ready to wear that you were showing at New York Fashion Week, but. Or, you know, a business for many years. I was going to ask if you look back on Bryant park with like great nostalgia as most people do, or gosh, maybe even prior.

[B]

So, you know, it's interesting because before 2007 I was showing every year in different venues because Bryant Park, I'm not sure when did that begin? It wasn't much before that.

[A]

2003. Yeah. And I think that the last year was 2009, so you're probably there.

[B]

But it went from there to a couple of other locations. I mean in terms of group showing, it went from Bryant park to Lincoln center to the Moynihan Station to downtown. You know, there was versions of the version, but I think the first time I showed there, it meant something very special to me because I was showing within three days of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein and some of the biggest designers. And I thought, wow, this is, like, amazing.

[A]

Yeah.

[B]

You know, Dennis Vasso is mixed up in the middle of all of this. It sort of was a bit of a validation, even though I have huge shows with 700, 800, 1000 people elsewhere but here to be able to be part of that. And I worked very closely with Fern Malice, who was, you know, the godmother and the creator of New York fashion week in 10. And that was really so great to be a part of all of that. I can remember that very first show what it was like to go in that gigantic space with that huge Runway. It was quite amazing. It's something that'll always be with me.

[A]

Yes. Because everyone was in the same location and I'm sure.

[B]

Yes. It had a feeling of community, of camaraderie. Yes.

[A]

That's what I was just gonna ask. Yeah, I wouldn't doubt it. More of a community. And gosh, Fearne has so many stories about Bryant Park. She always. I mean, it's not anything fun, but she does talk about, like, 911 and everyone being there and how everyone came together. Were you there at that time?

[B]

Yes.

[A]

Oh, wow.

[B]

911 was 2011.

[A]

Oh, yes. Oh, my gosh. Oh, my gosh.

[B]

And I started with 27. Yes, yes, yes, yes.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. Craziness. Crazy times. Well, looking back, looking at the shows as they stand now, how would you describe the fashion community? Is it just more kind of. It's not in a negative way. Every man for themselves, but it is more independent. Independent change.

[B]

It's all different. Some of the great designers choose not to show anymore. They just show by appointment. Some of the companies, like Chanel, they do these unbelievable multi million dollar shows. So I think they're all versions of the version. And I think we've all. No one is looking up or down at someone for what they're doing. Everyone is doing what's right for them and what's right for their company and for their creativity. I love a big show and I'm excited to do this. This will be very interesting. A little bit more intimate, and I think it'll be interesting for the people coming, and I hope you'll be coming to see it.

[A]

Totally.

[B]

I'm excited you'll be able to see something up close, not just the model walking right by. They're going to be in vignettes. So you're going to be able to stand there almost museum like. So I think that is giving it another level.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. And that will make for some beautiful social media imagery. That's great. Well, gosh, I love the kind of, I don't want to say full circle moment, but we just, we also have on this series the president of FIT talking about how they're basically like prepping designers. And I know you went to fit, so I'm like, hey, you mean Dr. Brown?

[B]

Yes, she's a very close friend of mine.

[A]

Oh, fantastic.

[B]

I mean, we are very close friends. See, she is great and she's an amazing woman. And I, you know, this is her last year as president and she was so instrumental about 10 years ago through the governor at the time in the state of New York. They presented me with an honorary doctorate degree.

[A]

Fantastic.

[B]

A doctorate of fine arts. And I spoke at that graduation and it was really very special.

[A]

That's so amazing. Congrats. I should call you doctor now.

[B]

She gave me, as a fun thing, a stethoscope. That's funny.

[A]

I love it. Well, do you think that it's just as valuable or how would you see it in terms of the traditional path to fashion designer? Fit you, I'm sure. Maybe, maybe a great retailer picked you up and helped to catapult your business. You also are involved in the cfda, those kind of more traditional, I guess, relationships and building blocks of the, of your career is. How important would you say, looking back, that would be to a designer today?

[B]

I think everyone, I think higher education is so important. So no matter what your field is, and I think it gives you a. Actually, I wanted to be a designer, but really when I first went to fit, I was studying merchandising. And then I realized, you know, sketching wasn't my strongest point, but I knew how to convey my idea to paper. I thought you had to be a real artist for that to be a designer. But little did I realize that there are people who are illustrators who do that that aren't necessarily designers. And I evolved in that. And, you know, also you have your basics. You know, there's a little bit of reading, writing and arithmetic going on there. I think that the education and I think going to, you know, MIT is the Harvard of fashion from around the world. I mean, Dr. Brown has made it and taken it to the, to the highest. So I Think it's very important. I think FIT is an amazing school and there are so many different, whether it's photography or fashion or the cosmetic industry, they've, you know, grown to so many different areas.

[A]

Yes, agree. Do you have a moment looking back? Was it Bryant park where you're like, you kind of described it this way of Bryant Park. I made it like this. I'm, I'm off. Did you, did you have to link with a business partner or like you had that business mind going into your business because of your education and maybe other, other relationships?

[B]

I've had a partner for many years. But, you know, that's important because you really can't do everything. And I'm a creative guy, though. I have a business mind I don't want to deal with worrying about has the insurance been paid on the company, has the electric, do we still have electricity here? You know, but in terms of the bigger decision and the growth, as you know, 31 years ago, I ventured off into something very special. I have a collection that I'm on QVC with.

[A]

Yes.

[B]

And I've been on QVC for 31 years. And it's. The collection is called Dennis by Dennis Basso. And I'm often on once a week. And that has been so great because that you. I make a collection that we do is quite high end. To be able to do something where it could appeal to so many women, tens and tens of thousands of women across America is extremely exciting.

[A]

Yes. I hear that from a few other designers in terms of the importance of diversifying your business model this day and age, like, is that helping to fund your.

[B]

Well, I did it 31 years ago. So I mean, I don't know, you know, now I think it's more popular than ever. But I liked it because I, I had a little, always a fascination with show business. So I thought, well, this is sort of interesting. You're going to be on television. And I've grown with them. And I think I'm out of a group of five, some of the longest people on there. But, you know, Nicole Miller is on qvc, Isaac Mizrahi is on qvc. So we have enough sampling of different designers that we know that are on and it's, you know, makes it so interesting and so wonderful.

[A]

Yes. I would think you have a lot of great customer loyalty either through QVC or your own brand. You know, your customers.

[B]

Well, oh, yes. I mean, I've developed some friendships over the years with my couture customers and the customers that watch qvc. You know, she'll write to us or I'll see her. If I'm shopping or in an airport, they come up to me and it's such a great thing.

[A]

Yes. What would you say is your greatest challenge these days?

[B]

I think the greatest challenge is you want to stay current, you want to stay modern, you want to be able to be out there. And I mean, I do. I have no inkling at all of ever stepping down or back. What would I do? I want to do this. I'm in my happy place. I mean, we just did a whole ad campaign with my dear friend Martha Stewart. She was wearing a Dennis Fossil coat, and we were on a billboard in Times Square during the Christmas season.

[A]

Amazing. What? I missed this.

[B]

Yes. Pretty fabulous, I must say.

[A]

That's amazing. Well, besides qvc, where else are you selling these days?

[B]

So we have a boutique in Harrods. We have a boutique within, you know, a store in store. And then we're in various shops all around Europe and America. We have found that a lot of people. We had for many years a boutique in Aspen. And then when Covid came, that changed and rearranged. But, you know, we. I love to do the trunk shows. We go to Palm beach and we'll go to Switzerland to start and Samuraitz and do trunk shows. I think, you know, that clearly keeps you in touch with the client.

[A]

Yes. Has your client or I guess your style changed? I always think of your client as being very posh. Your clothes are very high end. Obviously, we went through the pandemic and everyone was wearing sweatpants. But I just saw Annette a Porte's little, little trend preview that, like, getting dressed is bad, baby. People are wearing dresses and heels and blazers and all the things. But talk to me about that evolution.

[B]

So, I mean, I think that people, you know, people want to look nice. And of course, you know, Covid was actually, Covid was a nice break. We stayed in our house in Southampton, and I mean, I wanted it to end, but I wasn't like, oh, my God, this has to end. It was like, okay. I sort of got comfortable. I was making banana bread and this and that, and we were cooking. Well, we cook a lot in our house. My husband's a very good cook.

[A]

Nice.

[B]

So we were cooking quite a bit, and it was very nice. It was okay. It wasn't the worst thing. But then we came back and we learned how to cook, to relive, and how to do things differently and realize that, you know, you could pare things down and still get everything done.

[A]

Yes, yes. You started your business. Is first still part of the equation?

[B]

Yes, we do fur and fur. I have to tell you, with the cold weather, fur is all over the streets.

[A]

Yes, it is.

[B]

Well, forget. Even forget that. That's sort of funny. But in, just in general, I mean, you know, there's nothing more glamorous to put on a gorgeous dress, evening dress, cocktail dress, and it's cold out. I mean, you're not gonna wear a trench coat.

[A]

It is on trend. It is on trend.

[B]

Yes. 100%. And in this new collection, we have some beautiful furs.

[A]

Oh, wait for it. Oh, my gosh. Fall is the most fun. Is it two. Two shows a year or are you doing pre fall and all.

[B]

No, two shows. We do two big. We do this and then we do September.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. And last couple questions. In the front row, are we going to be seeing influencers, celebrities?

[B]

Well, this year, because it's not a front row situation, but in the past, you know, we've had everyone from Joan Collins to. To our Christiana to Dee Hilfinger to Susan Lucci to Diana Ross. I mean, it's just endless. Over the years, who have come to the show. Catherine Zeta Jones. I mean, all kinds, all different people, all from show business to politics, political figures. It's been wonderful. It's great.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. Amazing.

[B]

And we finally. The shows over the year, we finaled with many celebrities. I mean, we finaled with Natalie Cole, Joan Rivers, ivana Trump, Patti LaBelle, Cornelia Guest.

[A]

Nice.

[B]

I mean, endless. Mary J. Blige. I mean, been so much fun, Carol. I mean, it's just. And, you know, we've done things. We did all the furs for Meryl Streep for the movie the Devil Wears Prada. We did all the furs for Chicago for Catherine Zeta Jones and Renee Zellweger. That's all been a lot of fun.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. Are you at a. Do you have an amazing archive over there? I want to look at your archive and play around.

[B]

Exactly.

[A]

Invite me over, Dennis. Come on. We will throw the fur over our shoulder. Like Miranda. Miranda Priestley, that is, you know. Anyway, excited to see you this. This week. This will be fantastic. Any other surprises that we can expect? Anything else for the audience to know?

[B]

Well, I think it's exciting how all my collections, I always like to put the couture collection with pieces from the QVC collection, and I like to blend them in so you're never quite sure what's what, because that's what the American woman is about. The high, low, the mix up, having fun, using dressing in her own closet and never really letting the clothes wear her. She's wearing the clothes. And that's who the American New York woman is.

[A]

Yes. Is. Are the QVC pieces see now by now. Can we buy them immediately? Hopefully, maybe some of them.

[B]

These are for. What are we showing? There are some right now that we showed in spring and that we showed in September. And these are going to be for this coming fall.

[A]

Amazing. So I'm sure that the talking point, when you're on qvc, this was on the Runway.

[B]

Yes, actually. Yes, yes. And if you could check your travel, your TV guide, it'll come up that when Dennis Fasso was on qvc, oh, my gosh.

[A]

Is your personal social presence, like, in demand? Do you have to be on there talking to your customer?

[B]

I'm on. I go on. I mean, the next time I'm on, I'm going on the day before the.

[A]

Fashion show at 5pm what are they asking of you?

[B]

Well, I'm going full hour of great spring fashion that's coming up.

[A]

Oh, my gosh. Well, I'm sure it's well worth it. Oh, Dennis, thank you for being here. This was such a thrill.

[B]

This was so great. And please, I look forward to seeing you on Tuesday. And if you want to invite a girlfriend or a colleague, please feel free to do that.

[A]

Amazing. Thank you so much.

[B]

Thank you. Have a great week.

[A]

You, too.