The Glossy Podcast: Detailed Summary of Episode Featuring Edward Buchanan
Podcast Information
- Title: The Glossy Podcast
- Host: Zafirz Veglinska
- Episode Title: Fashion director Edward Buchanan: 'Luxury isn’t what it used to be’
- Release Date: February 26, 2025
- Description: A deep dive into the evolving landscape of fashion and luxury, featuring insights from key industry figures.
Introduction
In this insightful episode of The Glossy Podcast, host Zafirz Veglinska welcomes Edward Buchanan, a renowned designer and creative director, to discuss the shifting paradigms within the fashion and luxury industries. With a career spanning roles such as Design Director of Knitwear at Bottega Veneta in the late '90s and the founder of the innovative label Sansovino 6, Buchanan now serves as the Italian Fashion Director for Perfect Magazine, offering a unique perspective on Milan's dynamic fashion scene.
Evolution of Milan Fashion Week
Buchanan begins by reflecting on his three-decade residency in Milan, observing significant transformations in the city’s fashion landscape. He highlights the enduring legacy of Italian artisan craftsmanship while addressing modern challenges:
"There’s a lot of questions and conversations revolving around price point in the luxury space. And that really relates also to manufacturing." [03:32]
He notes the decline of traditional manufacturing hubs like Veneto and Padova, attributing closures to rising costs and the allure of cheaper production overseas. Despite these shifts, Italy remains a pivotal player in global manufacturing, albeit with a changing workforce dynamic.
Manufacturing Shifts and Challenges in Italy
The discussion delves into the struggles faced by Italian factories in attracting young talent. Buchanan emphasizes the reluctance of the newer generation to engage in manual craftsmanship, leading to a labor shortage:
"A lot of factories started closing down because there was no work, or people went to the Far East or they were going other places." [03:32]
He underscores the critical need for mentorship and educational support to nurture the next generation of artisans, pointing out systemic barriers that disadvantage students from underprivileged backgrounds.
Supporting Young and Independent Designers
Buchanan addresses the significant hurdles young and independent designers encounter in Milan. High operational costs, limited retail space, and substantial marketing expenses hinder their visibility and growth. He advocates for practical solutions that integrate mentorship, business support, and increased access to platforms:
"The solution is really understanding from a practical perspective how we can allow space, how we can mentor to help them build businesses..." [06:21]
He acknowledges existing support structures like Camera Nazionale della Moda and the Afro Fashion Association but emphasizes the need for more comprehensive and inclusive strategies.
Inclusivity and Diversity in Milan's Fashion Scene
As an American and a Black man in Milan’s predominantly white fashion industry, Buchanan shares his personal experiences with inclusivity and diversity. He critiques superficial diversity initiatives that fail to address internal corporate cultures:
"Speaking about inclusivity and diversity is not a window display. It's not just hiring a model for an advertising campaign... It starts from the inside out." [09:35]
Buchanan highlights the importance of genuine, systemic changes within organizations to foster an inclusive environment that truly reflects diversity beyond token placements.
Luxury's Modern Dilemma: Price and Quality
The conversation shifts to the rising costs of luxury goods and the perceived decline in quality. Buchanan questions the sustainability of inflating prices without corresponding value:
"What are we really talking about here? Does it serve really the long term business of purchasing to hike prices up so high?" [16:15]
He criticizes the disconnect between manufacturing costs and retail prices, suggesting that many luxury items are priced far beyond their intrinsic value, thus alienating a broader consumer base and questioning the ethical implications of such practices.
Sustainable and Ethical Manufacturing Models
Buchanan advocates for smaller, self-contained manufacturing ecosystems as a sustainable alternative. He cites Brunello Cucinelli as a model for ethical labor practices and high-quality production:
"If that could be a model for the future of any company that treats people well, pays people fairly... that seems to be worth what you're paying." [21:33]
This approach not only ensures better working conditions but also maintains the integrity and quality of the products, aligning with broader sustainability goals.
Anticipation for Milan Fashion Week: Brands to Watch
Looking ahead to the upcoming Milan Fashion Week, Buchanan shares his excitement for brands that embody honesty and authentic expression. He praises established names like Prada and Miu Miu for their creative integrity and highlights emerging talents such as Magliano, Adrian at Moschino, and Simone at Bali:
"Prada for me always has a creative honesty... I'm really excited about Adrian at Moschino." [23:11]
He emphasizes the importance of supporting independent designers who remain true to their brand ethos, fostering a more diverse and innovative fashion landscape.
Conclusion: The Future of Milan Fashion and Optimism
In wrapping up, Buchanan offers an optimistic view of the future of Milan Fashion Week despite industry challenges. His commitment to fostering positive change and supporting creative talent underpins his hopeful outlook:
"I say optimistic because I'm invested in this space... I'm willing to keep punching. I'm willing to keep punching until the end." [32:23]
His dedication to Milan as his creative home fuels his belief in continual improvement and the eventual triumph of inclusivity and quality over superficiality.
Key Takeaways:
- Manufacturing Decline: Traditional Italian factories face closures due to high costs and shifting production overseas, compounded by a lack of younger craftsmen.
- Support for Designers: Independent and young designers struggle with visibility and funding; mentorship and practical business support are essential.
- Inclusivity Challenges: True diversity requires internal cultural changes, not just external representation.
- Luxury's Price-Quality Gap: The sustainability of luxury brands is questioned as prices soar without corresponding quality improvements.
- Sustainable Models: Smaller, ethically-run manufacturing ecosystems like Brunello Cucinelli offer a viable path forward.
- Future Prospects: Milan Fashion Week remains a beacon of creativity and innovation, with emerging brands poised to make significant impacts.
Notable Quotes:
- “Speaking about inclusivity and diversity is not a window display. It's not just hiring a model for an advertising campaign... It starts from the inside out.” – Edward Buchanan [09:35]
- “What are we really talking about here? Does it serve really the long term business of purchasing to hike prices up so high?” – Edward Buchanan [16:15]
- “Prada for me always has a creative honesty... I'm really excited about Adrian at Moschino.” – Edward Buchanan [23:11]
- “I say optimistic because I'm invested in this space... I'm willing to keep punching.” – Edward Buchanan [32:23]
This episode offers a comprehensive exploration of the current state and future trajectory of Milan’s fashion industry, underscored by Buchanan’s expert insights and unwavering optimism.