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- [00:03]
A
Your brand's growth shouldn't be a mystery. Don't let bad data or wasted ad spend block your success. Tenuity believes in one. Love, Growth, hate Waste. Their brilliant humans use powerful tech to deliver clear strategies and results. They show you what's working and eliminate what's not. So nothing stands in the way of your growth. Love growth, hate waste. Visit love growth, hate hatewaste.com.
- [00:38]
B
Hi, everyone. This is the glossy podcast, and I'm international reporters of here's Viglinska, and I'm joined by Jill Manoff. Hi, Jill.
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C
Hi, Zofia.
- [00:49]
B
And this week we're joined by a special guest, Veg's new style director, Madeline Galassi. So, hi, Madeline. How are you?
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C
Hi.
- [00:57]
D
Great. Thank you so much for having me. I'm so excited to be here.
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B
Tell me a little bit more about this kind of launch at Betches and what your role is.
- [01:06]
D
Yeah, absolutely. So we launched our style vertical earlier this month, and really the crux of it is to create a fashion platform that doesn't have the usual, you know, barrier to entry and kind of seriousness that we're so used to in fashion media. I think especially right now, people want to talk about fashion and want to talk about what to wear and don't necessarily need, you know, all of the more serious elements of it. And so that launched on September 8, and that has been super exciting. We had our launch event in New York last week, and I am, like you said, the new style director. And so I am kind of spearheading the direction and the vision for the account. And it's all super exciting. The handles, etchestyle.
- [02:00]
B
Brilliant. Well, it's great to have some new kind of faces on the block. And Madeleine's here to talk a little bit more about our week in review topics this week and this week we are covering the Nike and Skims launch, which officially launched their first collaboration, as well as going into some of the bits behind London Fashion Week as it wraps, as well as moving a little bit over to Milan, which started yesterday. I'll be speaking about Diesel and Fendi and how. How they set the tone with two very different but equally participatory shows. So let's get started with our first topic, which is Nike and Skims. And obviously it's a big collab everyone's been talking about lands on September 26th. So that's tomorrow on Nike and, well, tomorrow we'll be recording today on Thursday, but tomorrow will be coming out when this podcast is going live. So it's also coming out on The Skims website, and in a couple of the flagships in New York and la, the line is pretty toug. There's some bras, leggings, bodysuits and outerwear. Sizing is quite diverse, so going from double xs to 4 times xl and with bras going all the way to 44 quadrupled, which I think that might be the first time I've ever seen that sizing. Prices range from 38 to $148. So right in that kind of Skims core zone. I know that they came out with a new campaign called Bodies at Work, you know, leaning heavily on female athletes like Serena Williams, sha' Carri Richardson. You know, you guys think of the launch and the campaign as well.
- [03:33]
D
I think it's all really exciting, especially recording this with having seen the launch event last night. I think that it is, I mean, obviously a really logical collaboration. I think that Nike being able to use the Skim's name and the Skim's vision to kind of, I think, appeal to female shoppers in ways that, you know, over the past few years might have pivoted to more like Lululemon, Aloe, you know, the. Those brands is a really smart move for them. And I think that I was surprised by how much I personally liked the collection as a whole. I think that despite obviously, the branding being, you know, that it's activewear and rather than lifestyle, I think that so many of the pieces are really wearable in a lifestyle capacity as well. I also think that the ads and kind of all of. I think that having Serena was brilliant. I think that they're putting really incredible faces to it. I think that the campaign as a whole, I've seen so much discourse online that it has a lot of Yeezy undertones. And I wouldn't disagree with that.
- [04:43]
C
I so agree. Especially the presentation last night. Yes, A lot of comparisons to Yeezy with the kind of uniform movement and the clay colorways and all the things. Yes, I know it's interesting you guys both use the word collaboration and, you know, they were. Nike has been adamant and I think Kim's people too, to say, you know, this isn't a collaboration, this is a new brand partnership. And yet I think it's so interesting because the only promotion that's being done on social channels, it's through Nike, it's through Skims, is through Kim. There's not a Nike Skims social presence in itself, which, like you look back at Ivy park and that is there. So, like, maybe that will happen on Friday with the official launch. Or it'll be interesting how they kind of, I don't know, play that.
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B
Yeah, I think that that's a really good point. Obviously this isn't just a collaboration. It's meant to be a long term partnership. And obviously with both of these brands having such a, I guess, like storied presence in the athletic wear space, but also I would guess in the leisure wear space, it's interesting that they're addressing that female customer by going to another brand. And Nike has been pretty down in the dumps, let's just say. And why it needs this is pretty clear. Last quarter its digital sales were down 26% overall. Reven has fallen double digits. And some of the wholesale partners it has have been calling for a little bit of a reset, especially as it's kind of diversified into other categories. And women's is one of the categories that Nike has consistently struggled to kind of energize. This is their biggest kind of female forward move in years. And for Skims, I think the benefit is slightly different. Obviously Nike is a much bigger kind of more storied brand. The brand itself is still basking in that $4 billion valuation. But expansion into performance wear is quite toug. And by linking with Nike, Skims kind of gets that cachet and doesn't have to build a technical distribution network from scratch, which, you know, I think is valuable for a brand even with that kind of valuation. I don't know from like a business perspective. Do you guys think it's a smart move?
- [06:48]
C
I do. I think for both brands. I think for Nike they don't really have that fashion girl, like it's fashion meet meets function with Skims. And like you, Madeline named some of those great brands that all the girls are shopping these days. There are interesting detail that maybe we're not seeing from other brands. I mean, for better or worse, like the thong legging, the, the double layer bra we're kind of seeing elsewhere. But you know, we're hearing leggings are out, wide leg is in, they're doing some fun like glossy cargoes, although they are doing leggings every which way, even capri leggings. So I feel like there's something for everyone to kind of get a taste of it. And we, and I think that's important because we've heard from people who buy the bras and the underwear that, you know, once you get skims, you get the softness, you get the fit, like you can feel how it sucks you in. They talk about, they talk about that. What do they call it? It's almost like shapewear beats activewear.
- [07:39]
B
Cinching, I think.
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C
I like that word. Me. Yeah. So I think it's smart. I'm interested to try it. And I'm. We are. You know, there's only so much you can do with activewear, I guess, but they're doing a little bit. Some inventive new things, I would say.
- [07:58]
D
Yeah, I think so, too. I kind of like you said, Sophia, I think that I think on both ends, Skims using Nike to launch into activewear, I think makes a lot of sense. Like, I can't imagine, kind of like, I already said, that consumers would be eager if it was just skims on its own to swap out their go to activewear. Those bigger brands that we're seeing everyone shop right now in exchange for skims activewear. But having both names on it, I think is really attractive. And I think that. I do think that they've done a really great job with the design of it. I think the matte and the shine and, you know, the. The seamless, different options are all things that I think are wearable to a really wide, wide variety of people. And like I said, I think that just, like, from active and a lifestyle perspective, that it is kind of something that feels fresh and new for both brands.
- [08:57]
B
Yeah. And the branding, obviously, is quite subtle as well, which I think is a major benefit to people who might be a little bit tired of seeing, you know, bigger activewear logos blazoned everywhere. And let's move on to our next topic around London Fashion Week. So London wrapped with, you know, I'd say, like, three main shows from my side that stood out. But what are your kind of first impressions? Because you're both obviously in the States. And it's interesting for me as well to see what are the international takes on London Fashion Week, especially this time around.
- [09:28]
D
So from my perspective, I think that the most noteworthy was definitely Burberry. It, I think, was the standout. It is what I've been hearing people talk about in my life, and I think was something that was just so new and exciting for them. I was so excited to see kind of a pivot from Daniel Lee with still using their heritage plaid that, you know, consumers want, but being able to kind of communicate it in a more young and fresh way with all of the color and the trench and the playful colors and textures, I think is kind of a pivot that could potentially have them attract younger shoppers, which I don't think is happening so far.
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C
Yes, we talked about this last week about kind of the disconnect with maybe some of the, I don't know, price points or even styles and the. The audience that they're trying to appeal to and maybe they should be going for, like a cool girl or a young girl. And all the things. I was so excited to Madeline because, like, it called to mind for me and there are comparisons to it all over. All over the interwebs that, like, back when I was first, like, becoming a fashion girl, like early 20s, I'm showing my age, but like early, early 2000s, when it was like Alexa Chung and Kate and Sienna Miller and they were at Glastonbury and it festival chic and. Ah, yeah, it gave me feelings.
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D
Yeah, like the indie sleaze of the early 2000s. Yes.
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C
I'm obsessed.
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D
Oh, my gosh, the set was just so fun too. The front row, Elton John. Oh, my God.
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C
Iconic.
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B
There's a lot. A lot of great names at the show and obviously it is a different direction for Daniel Lee. And we spoke about the kind of changes that are happening under Burberry and, you know, the relatively recently appointed CEO from last year, so interested to see how that comes to life. It's also the same time as the first Regent store, which is obviously the main Burberry flagship. That's when the Scarf bar launched at the same time as the show itself. So all of those little scarves and their personalization, that's going to be happening now in the main flagship store as well. Did you guys see any of the other shows like Simone Rocha Erdem? I know that those have been some of the more popular kind of mainstays in the international circles too.
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D
The one I was going to talk about next was Simone. Oh, my God. That is always one that personally I look forward to the most. I think that I've also seen from my perspective here, so much more of.
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E
Her.
- [12:16]
D
Vision being, I think, really talked about in my circles. You know, we had that. That dress that. That they had Carrie Bradshaw wear from her spring 2025 collection that went super viral. And I think that in this collection, I was so just, like, enamored with the juxtaposition of kind of the masculine and feminine with all of the tulle and then contrasted against the silver and the more tough textures. And then still those. Those fresh florals that she brings in was just beautiful.
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C
Yeah, I so agree.
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B
I think there's some great outerwear pieces too, echoing a little bit of that Burberry theme. I think there was some of those like transparent rain jackets with little flowers, white flowers everywhere. Those looked like a perfect kind of bridal wear piece for British weather. I know that that's a big one. And obviously there's some changes happening at London Fashion Week under the new BFC CEO Laura Wire. She said that, you know, she's going to be cutting the show fe expanding that international circle. She brought in a lot of creators and international press and buyers, which I think was great. Obviously, there's still some teething problems with that, which we've discussed in some of our glossy coverage. However, it looks like there's a lot of interesting things to come from London. I'm looking forward to seeing more from that international scene as well. Moving on to Milan. I know that we're kind of zooming through the fashion weeks, but they come and go so quickly. What are you most excited about with Milan? I know that we're all already on day three. I want to say, yes, we'll be on day three when this comes out. And we've had Diesel, you know, we've had Fendi. I think that there's some great things as well from Jill Sander. What are some of the things that you've seen so far that have been interesting to you, Madeleine?
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D
I am super excited to see Louise Trotter's debut at Bottega. That is something that I've been really looking forward to with her, you know, reputation for such phenomenal tailoring. But I would be remiss to not talk about the Gucci Demna moment that is everywhere. I think that so many things about it are noteworthy. You know, the. The collection being available in some boutiques starting today, given that he only started mid July, I think is so new and so different from, you know, the usual product circulation that we see after Fashion Week. And obviously with the film launching yesterday, I think that it all feels fun, but really, you know, timeless in a way. I think that this direction that he chose is, you know, honestly, based on what I've seen successfully, gonna kind of give Gucci the boost that they also really need.
- [15:04]
B
Yeah, definitely. I think there's been some talk about how reliant, you know, caring. So Gucci's parent company is on. On Gucci and how little that brand has been able to do in recent quarters for it. Considering the more muddied, you know, direction that me and Jill will. A little bit later in the episode Jill did. Is there any kind of shows that you've seen so far that you think have been noteworthy?
- [15:29]
C
Yeah, we'll talk more about Gucci, but I'm in agreement on that one. But also interesting, you know, Fendi was. It got a lot of buzz. I think that it's. It was great. It was interesting that they went big on color, kind of leaned into the sporty vibe. I also thought that it was interesting that they didn't go all out on the double F logo. Like there wasn't a lot of logo happening. So it wasn't like quiet luxury by any means because it was colorful and there were prints. However, yes, a shying away from that logo, just like Sophia said, I think we're seeing that kind of across the board. And when people are maybe not wanting to buy into something that's a trend or that's so, especially as designers are coming in and out. I tell you what, I recently bought a pair of Gucci shoes and like, as, like, I don't know, we are waiting, waiting to see how Gucci was going to do. I'm wearing them and I'm like, are these cringe? Like, I don't know if Gucci's hot right now. I don't know. So I think that it does. It works their advantage and people like a piece and maybe, you know, there's so much turnover and hot and cold and all the things maybe that has to do with it. So that's interesting. I'm also interested to see Prada. Of course.
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B
Yeah, Prada has shown up with some orange Runway images that I've seen so far. And it looks like the collection is very typical from Prada. A lot of kind of bold colors and shapes. So I'll be looking to get into that a little bit more. I also wanted to just mention, you know, Diesel and Glenn Martens kind of starting there as well and focusing on this more kind of interactive approach to showcasing. Instead of a Runway, he placed models inside these transparent egg shaped capsules scattered all over Milan, everywhere from gardens and theaters to bingo halls, apparently. And nearly 5,000 people have signed up online to chase them down over three and a half hours. And in return they get a full catwalk look if they manage to get kind of, I think all of them. So I think there's a lot of interesting formats that are happening in mil. Diesel is definitely one of the kind of younger, more subversive brands. So interesting to see that. And obviously there's still more to come from Milan. Creative director Debuza saw the big story. So Louise Trotter at Bottega, that's happening on Saturday and obviously a little bit more from Demna as people Showcase all of the products that they're showcasing right now, plus Dario Vitale's Versace, which will be debuting tomorrow or today, depending on, you know, when you're taking this episode in. It's Friday. All of which will set the tone for where Italian fashion will go next. And next week, it's on to Paris, and we'll see whether the big debuts land with the same kind of creative energy. So, and thank you so much for being here, Madeleine and Jill, it's so lovely to have you.
- [18:12]
D
Thank you so much for having me.
- [18:14]
C
It was fun. Thanks, Madeleine.
- [18:23]
A
Is your brand's potential being held back? Bad data, wasted? Ad spend, the wrong media mix? Lackluster creative? That's where tenuity comes in. As a full service media agency, they're powered by a single idea. Love, growth, hate, waste. Their brilliant humans use powerful technology to deliver clear strategies and results. Their tech will show you exactly what's working and hunt down what's not, so you have clarity on what to do next. Get ready for the big, bold growth your brand deserves. Tenuity, love, growth, hate, waste. Find out if your media strategy is working for you@lovegrowth. Hatewaste.com.
- [19:09]
B
And we're joined again by Joel Manoff, our editor in chief, who's focusing on the Gucci rollout. Because obviously there's been some new developments here and we mentioned them earlier on the episode with Madeleine around Gucci's film that came out on Thursday. You know, Jill, first impressions on the tiger. What did you think of the film considering, you know, Gucci's new direction?
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C
It's interesting. I feel like the direction of the clothing is, you know, going back to the archives, first of all, which is kind of playing it safe. But I feel like in true Demna style, he kind of takes it extra. Like we're not just seeing, like, I don't know, a dress with some fur. It's kind of like over the top and super voluminous. I think, like, it's like very, I don't know the word. It's like rich bitch to the nth degree. But like, I think the rollout, the creative and the marketing feels. Feels more innovative. But I would love to get your take on it where that feels like it adds edge, whereas the clothing, you know, it's. It's not as surprising.
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B
Yeah, it does feel a little bit safer. I mean, I think that's also because the public is probably comparing it to Alessandro Michele, who was obviously the creative director for the brand until he left in late 2022 and his successor Sabata Desano debuted, you know, kind of more paired back things, which is kind of similar to what Demna rolled out, but again, a little bit different. And Desano's, you know, left critics a little bit underwhelmed. So I think that, you know, people are looking for more creative direction, storytelling, brand building, which they're definitely getting with this film, obviously starring Edward Norton, Demi Moore and Keke Palmer. I think there's been some great takes on the kind of characterization of Italian characters as well, with the number of different stereotypes that Demna has rolled out. And the styling around those characters ended up actually coming to the film screening in Milan. So again, building on brand and making sure that story rollout is really happening. I think you're right though. The clothes in themselves are a little bit more pared back and I'm wondering if maybe there's going to be a little bit more of a focus on quality, quality and luxury a la Tom Ford, rather than kind of focusing on the, the kind of brash Gucci that we've become, you know, known to love. I think beforehand under Alessandro, there was more similarities between maybe a Versace and a Gucci than there was between, I don't know, like a Prada and a Gucci or, you know, one of the other Brunello brands, for example. I feel like that's something that's, that's really happened. And with its kind of heritage in Milan, you know, the culture of the Skuras, which I think has been a particularly big feature. These old ladies who have impeccable taste and style. I think there's been a lot of that from this kind of new launch in Gucci and there's still some signatures. I saw photos of some of the loafers coming in more distressed styles, which I think is a new take on those ones that you mentioned earlier in the episode. Do you think that that's something that will be a successful rollout strategy for Gucci?
- [22:24]
C
I mean, I think it's maybe their best bet. Like, if you read my story I did today, it was the whole, the, the premise isn't really related. It was like, why are designers doing fall for spring? But I had an in depth conversation with Akeem Berg, who is a, an investor, an analyst, really just a fashion and luxury expert. And we talked a lot about Gucci and what they're doing and, and some other, some other brands that have brought in a new creative director. And you know, we know for Gucci, like, they have this amazing history and reputation for kind of finding these no name designers and letting them show their stuff because they never had the opportunity and they become superstars and they do all of these. This cool, innovative stuff we've never seen before. And that's what, what makes them so big. This is a totally different story. Like denim. Denim. Demna will be the first, like, kind of established designer that has proven himself under another caring brand, Balenciaga. Like, would they know he's. He's got what it takes. And it's almost, it's predictable. It's, it's, it's not, again, shocking. Although Demna himself can be shocking. But, yeah, they had to make some big changes, obviously. So new creative director, they have new leadership. And to bring in somebody who's going to do something totally new, as. As Akeem was telling me and saying, and I agree would just. Just be like, basically too risky right now when they're already losing money, their stock is down. Gucci is their largest brand. On the flip side, I'm talking a lot. There's some, I don't know, criticism where bringing in the same people from under the same umbrella, like, is it going to turn things around? Like, do we need newness to kind of get the ball rolling and start a new trajectory? And we know that there's kind of musical chairs of designers and all the things. So it's like, like, I don't know, streetwear happened, quiet luxury happened, and everybody's kind of looking for, I don't know, to grab onto something, the next big thing. And what is that? There are a lot of question marks.
- [24:29]
B
Yeah. And I think, you know, we spoke to Luke Szolka earlier about this, and he had some great takes on what it really means to bring in a good creative director with a good C suite. You mentioned that already a little bit, but I'd love to bring in here some thought thoughts.
- [24:44]
E
When we look at matching creative talent with brands, we would ideally want to find someone who can build a bridge between the brand equity and history and where we would want to take it, assuming that management has a good idea where to take the business that is towards a fertile consumer group that could potentially be receiving the brand and resonating to the brand and therefore spending money on the brand. You don't want to have a perfect match and you don't want to continue to produce exactly the same aesthetics, exactly the same heritage and history, because otherwise brands become boring and become less relevant. And there's no way of putting a brand in a freezer, continuing to do what has been popular for the past 10 years. And hoping that this will be enough. It won't be enough. It's like turning off the engine. When you are in a plane at 11,000 meters, for a while you will be gliding and then you will be crashing. So we need some proximity, but we also need some difference in terms of. And I think that balancing this proximity and this difference is really an art, and that is what management has to be doing. I'm also convinced that there's a lot of talk about creative directors today, as if they alone could make or break the business and the success of the brand. But in my view, instead, creative directors are a very important and very useful tool to take a brand along a development path that has to come from the business leadership and has to be imbued with acumen and a sense of where the market is going, what is a promising space to be approaching.
- [27:15]
B
And I think that, you know, Luca mentioned some interesting things there around not relying on what has come before, which, you know, if anything might be a little bit too much of what Demna has gotten gone for. But it is still the first collection. And you know, as Madeline mentioned, it was a very quick rollout. So again, probably not a lot of time to go deeper into the archives, create a proper, demnified Gucci brand story. And considering, I guess, the need for a little bit of stability first because of some of those steepest declines that happened financially for the brand between 2024 and 2025, this is almost like a transition phase, right, Jill?
- [27:57]
C
Yes. And I wanted to ask you because like. Like Luca just said or referenced, like, can you. It's not really. You can't really put all the. All the weight on the designer. And as part of the. The secret sauce of Alessandro Michele had to do with. Or there was a lot of talk about this. Who's to say what was happening behind the scenes, but like the scenes, but his relationship really just working hand in hand with president and CEO at the time, Marco. So bizarre. And you know, we have new leadership. I don't know that that's the way Demna works. Like, do you think that that. I mean, obviously it worked for. For Alessandro. Like, is that. Is that necessary for them to kind of gel like that and work hand in hand? I can't think of another example where we've heard about that so much than. Than with Gucci.
- [28:46]
B
Yeah, I mean, I think it is important, especially nowadays because so much of that brand build or world building has to happen between the creative and the business side of things, especially in terms of funneling where the Money is going. And considering obviously that Gucci accounts for nearly 50% of revenue and profit for Kering, I think it's not just a Gucci conversation, but it's also a Kering conversation. So I wouldn't be surprised if it's not just the CEO of Gucci that's involved, but also the CEO of Kering in terms of where that brand direction is going, what they're looking at to do, and kind of how they're able to touch on that heritage, create these viral cultural moments. Because obviously they're referencing a lot of film and celebrity with this film launch. They're taking a little bit more of a fun, irreverent approach with the launch of these kind of archetypes or stereotypes. And they're pushing a little bit further into stable accessories for now, which could revive Gucci's core sales engine. So I think there's a lot of interesting kind of takes, but I must say I don't think that we'll see anything more significant from Gucci until, you know, the actual show, which is coming in February. I think that there won't be a bigger kind of turnaround direction and I'm sure that we'll see more of these little kind of creative projects. And I think that's what's going to give us these little hints as to what Demna's identity for Gucci will be.
- [30:14]
C
That's interesting. I think that that's smart and actually. And it makes you question the role of Fashion Week, like, like when these little kind of little bits like maybe once a month. And it creates newness that's pretty damn impactful compared to nobody doing anything else except social posts that are whatever. That are whatever. I think that could be smart. I also think it could be smart and I think that it's probably coming. Like we know the power of Demna to create an IT item. And so like he was doing all of these very almost, I don't know, again, arty, almost avant garde, I mean, out of top or out of out of reach things at Balenciaga. But at the same time he had like, he really put the, the dad shoe or the, the big chunky sneaker on the map and everybody wanted one. They were more accessible and, and that I'm sure was a big contributor to some of that, like that growth trajectory, especially early on. So I think we're gonna need some of that. I, I do expect them to be trying some things there. They do need to. All luxury brands need to win back this as. So I expect that. But, yeah, who's to say?
- [31:25]
B
Yeah. And, you know, whether that's the success of the Kagol under Balenciaga or the City Bag, I think that we'll also see some very strong accessories, you know, coming out in the next couple of months. I do think that we'll, we'll still be, you know, teased rather than fully immersed in Demna's world, but looking forward to seeing what's next. So thank you, Jill, for joining us on the Glossy podcast. It was such a pleasure to have you.
- [31:52]
C
So fun talking fashion. Thank you.
- [31:59]
B
And that's all the time that we have this week. Don't forget to give us a rating and a review on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, wherever you're listening to this, it really helps us out a lot. Thanks for listening.