Inside NYFW designer Patricio Campillo’s plans to create 'a Mexican Loewe’

Summary

The Glossy Podcast: Inside NYFW Designer Patricio Campillo’s Plans to Create 'A Mexican Loewe'

Release Date: February 7, 2025
Host: Jill Manoff
Guest: Patricio Campillo, Designer of Campeo

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Introduction to Patricio Campillo and Campeo

In this insightful episode of The Glossy Podcast, host Jill Manoff sits down with Patricio Campillo, the creative force behind Campeo, an eight-year-old menswear brand that seamlessly blends Mexican heritage with contemporary fashion and sustainable practices. Campeo recently gained recognition as a semifinalist in the prestigious LVMH Prize, marking a significant milestone for the brand. As New York Fashion Week (NYFW) approaches, Patricio shares his vision, inspirations, and the journey that has positioned Campeo as a standout name in the fashion industry.

Inspiration and Design Philosophy

Patricio delves deep into the roots of his design philosophy, emphasizing the importance of heritage and cultural recontextualization. Inspired by a classic charro suit passed down from his grandfather, Campeo explores the evolution of masculinity and identity from the early 20th century to the present day.

“It’s a recontextualization of Mexican tradition and Mexican culture,” Patricio explains (03:31). “Bringing this culture into our contemporary times, into a diverse, tolerant, and just welcoming kind of context, allowed me to think about, like, I am a gay charro in 2024, 2025.”

This approach not only honors his heritage but also pushes the boundaries of traditional menswear, introducing elements of magic realism—a Latin American version of surrealism—to create garments that are both timeless and avant-garde.

Breakthrough Moments: Celebrity Endorsements

A pivotal moment for Campeo came when Leon Bridges adorned a custom Campeo suit at the Emmys, catapulting the brand into international spotlight. This unexpected endorsement significantly boosted the brand's visibility and demand.

“I was on vacation with my phone off ... and then he [Leon Bridges] was, like, best dressed in so many magazines all around the world. I was like, I can’t believe it,” Patricio recalls (07:07).

This surge in attention highlighted the profound impact that celebrity endorsements can have, transforming Campeo from a growing brand to a sought-after name in luxury menswear.

Navigating Fashion Week and Brand Positioning

Despite menswear often taking a backseat in NYFW, which predominantly showcases women's fashion, Campeo has carved out a unique space. Patricio emphasizes that while Campeo maintains a masculine aesthetic, its designs are inclusive, appealing to a diverse clientele regardless of gender.

“The brand is a masculine aesthetic with more masculine proportions, but that doesn’t really mean anything on who is going to wear it,” Patricio states (10:34).

This inclusive approach not only broadens Campeo’s appeal but also reflects a modern understanding of identity and fashion.

Business Strategy and Growth

Patricio wears multiple hats as both the creative and business mind behind Campeo. Operating primarily on a direct-to-consumer model, Campeo has also established retail partnerships with notable entities like H. Lorenzo and Assembly in New York. Surprisingly, the brand has found significant success in markets like Korea, underscoring its global appeal.

“We’ve been working with Assembly in New York. Very surprisingly, the clothes have had, like, really good success in Korea,” Patricio shares (14:17).

Maintaining a boutique in Mexico City serves as a home base, providing a tangible space for customers to experience the brand firsthand.

Challenges and Success in the Fashion Industry

Operating from Mexico, Campeo faces unique challenges such as limited access to fashion-centric organizations and disparities in purchasing power compared to developed countries. Despite these hurdles, Patricio remains steadfast in his commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

“I am focusing on doing really beautiful clothes and increasing my level of craft. Because if my clothes are very different and very unique, then there’s no replacement for them,” he notes (16:02).

Patricio’s dedication to excellence ensures that Campeo stands out in a crowded market, prioritizing durability and timelessness over fleeting trends.

Future Vision and Sustainability

Looking ahead, Patricio envisions Campeo evolving into the first Latin American luxury powerhouse, drawing inspiration from brands like Loewe. His goal is to expand into accessories and further develop the brand's universe, maintaining impeccable craftsmanship and sustainability.

“I like to think of it, you know, just craft-wise and process-wise as kind of a Mexican Loewe,” Patricio articulates (18:16).

Sustainability remains a core tenet, with Campeo advocating for “buying less but better,” ensuring that each piece is not only fashionable but also enduring.

Advice for Emerging Designers

In closing, Patricio offers valuable advice to budding designers: remain passionate, work diligently, and prioritize mental health. His journey underscores the importance of staying true to one’s vision while navigating the complexities of the fashion industry.

“Just remember why you’re doing what you’re doing, and hard work always pays off. And take care of your mental health also,” he advises (20:59).

Conclusion

Patricio Campillo’s journey with Campeo is a testament to the power of cultural heritage, innovative design, and unwavering dedication. As NYFW approaches, the anticipation for his latest collection grows, promising to further cement Campeo’s place in the global fashion landscape. This episode of The Glossy Podcast not only sheds light on Patricio's creative process but also inspires emerging designers to blend tradition with contemporary flair.

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Quotes attributed to Patricio Campillo unless otherwise noted. Timestamps correspond to the podcast transcript for reference.

Transcript

[A]

Thanks for tuning in to this New York Fashion Week edition of the Glossy podcast. I'm your host, Jill Manoff, and today I'm sitting down with Patricio Campillo, the designer behind the eight year old menswear brand Campeo, which blends Patricio's Mexican heritage with his take on contemporary menswear and sustainable practices. It also happened to be a semifinalist in last year's LVMH prize. Ahead of the Campeo Runway show at New York Fashion Week, I wanted to sit down with Patricio to discuss his unique fashion focus and to what extent celebrity fans of the brand, including Nick Jonas and Leon Bridges, have contributed to its success. Welcome, Patricio. Thanks for being here.

[B]

Hi, Jill. I'm so happy to be here. Thank you for making this interview.

[A]

Oh, thank you for doing this. And you are in your studio today in Mexico City?

[B]

Yes, yes, we're in my studio in downtown Mexico City. It's very close to, you know, the Zocaloa in the center of the city. So, yeah, it's like home a little bit. It's my second home.

[A]

Amazing. Oh, my gosh. When do you jet off for Fashion Week?

[B]

Monday. So we're like, finishing up the last details of the collection, which is always like just a roller coaster of feelings and emotions.

[A]

Yes. Is it going to be anything unexpected? Are you doing anything wild this season?

[B]

Yes, I am. I actually am.

[A]

Oh. Oh. What can you share? We're just going to jump in.

[B]

Well, you know, I think a lot about this collection was, for me, about enjoying, like, adding things to the collection. Elements that were just a mixture of things that I found beautiful around me and around my references. And it was like a way of escaping this. You know, I think there's a lot of things happening in the world that are stressful and hard to digest. So it's like just escaping to this beautiful place, which led me to kind of this magic realism situation. Magic realism, you know, it's kind of a Latin American version of surrealism. So obviously, when you jump into, like, fantasy and magic, it, like, it just took me a little bit more into, like, couture kind of development for the pieces.

[A]

Ooh.

[B]

Yeah. So that's kind of like, you know, the main evolution. I think I've wanted to do it for a while and, you know, I was always a little bit scared to just, you know, I think couture techniques are so specific and just so rigorous and. And I was just like, you know, this is what I'm. I'm going to enjoy the Most this season.

[A]

Yes. Good for you. And I almost said this is not your first rodeo, but. Because it makes me kind of laugh, because I see, like, a lot of country western music stars have taken to your collection, which I'm like, it's interesting. First of all, how would you describe the clothes? And I'm such a fan. I'm a new fan of the brand. And it's really interesting because, you know, I think that it makes sense that I'm seeing it all over the red carpet because, you know, there's only so much that you can do with menswear, or that's how it's always been done. You know, you see the same suits, the same cuts. Maybe you'll see a brooch here and there, and you. You're really bringing some originality to it. Tell about, for those who don't know the brand, what's your approach and what do you consider your differentiators?

[B]

Yeah, well, I mean, it's very much a heritage brand in the sense that it was all inspired by a classic charro suit that my grandfather gave to my dad when my dad turned 18. And then, you know, when I was in my mid-20s, we're talking about, like, all this. My dad was telling, like, all these stories about, like, his uncle, how he was, like, this typical charro and was, like, very handsome and, you know, just very kind of stereotypical Mexican guy in the early 20th century. And he showed me this beautiful orange suede suit, and I was just captivated by it. And, you know, I wore it a couple of times, and I started wearing the jacket, and it made me think, like, what did it mean to be a charro in the beginning of the 1900s? And what does it mean for it to be in, you know, 2020? I think it was 2023 at the time. 21. But, you know, what does it mean to be a man? What does it mean to be a charro? What part of that culture and that tradition is still relevant right now? And I think that led me to think about positive aspects of that culture, negative aspects of that culture, and kind of allowed me to just take whatever I thought was good and that was worth kind of replicating and bringing into the future. So, I mean, essentially, it's a recontextualization of Mexican tradition and Mexican culture, you know, so I think that bringing this culture into our contemporary times, into a diverse, tolerant, and just welcoming kind of context, allowed me to think about, like, you know, I am a gay charro in 2024, 2025, and this suit was worn by my grandfather, who, like, being a man meant a whole different thing. So I think that just kind of gives a lot of space to innovate in menswear.

[A]

Yes. And at the same time, a lot of men are not the most, I guess, courageous or brave when it comes to what they wear. I was going to ask, like, I'm really interested in how all of these stars have started wearing the clothes, and if it takes a stylist nudge or them to persuade them or to open their eyes to this, this could look great on you. You don't have to be so cookie cutter. Are you. Are you working with a lot of stylists?

[B]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, I'm working. You know, there's a few others that I've worked with for a few years, like Gabriella Tena, who styles Leon. She's amazing. She's amazing to collaborate with. But I've been doing this for some time now, and I've kind of tried everything in the beginning, like, you know, doing a lot of pr, meeting a lot of people, going to a lot of events, like, just kind of trying to bring some interest into the brand. And what has given me the most results is just focusing on making good clothes. And I think that just the rest kind of falls into place, you know?

[A]

Yes, yes. So are a lot of these guys finding you and it's an organic relationship?

[B]

Yeah, yeah. Just get, like, very exciting emails and very exciting DMs on Instagram, and it's like, you know, pretty surprises.

[A]

Yes. Oh, my gosh. Have you had, like, a surreal. I wouldn't say, like, made it moment, but a moment that you're like, I can't believe they're wearing it. Like, a moment like that that stands out in your head. I'm sure it happens a lot.

[B]

I mean, everything kind of started happening, like, three years ago when Leon wore a custom suit for the Emmys. And I remember I was on vacation with my phone off, and I didn't really know when he was gonna wear it. You know, I wasn't really aware of award season or anything, and I just turned on my phone and it just blew up. And then he was, like, best dressed in so many magazines all around the world. And I was like, I. You know, I can't believe it. Like, I don't. How did, like, how did this happen? You know, like, it's just so sudden and quick, and I think that just that made a lot of people look at the brand and the clothes and begin to be interested about it. So I'M always going to be grateful to Gabriela and Leon for, you know, showcasing that suit. And he just looked amazing in it.

[A]

Yes. Well, we're coming upon red carpet season and also Fashion Week. What you're saying really could also be said of Fashion Week. Like, what does a moment like that that received a lot of press do for the brand? So maybe you got more press attention. Did it also translate to traffic to your side and maybe some sales or new customers?

[B]

Yeah, yeah. I mean, I would have thought that it was just going to like, you know, change my life forever. But actually it's been like a slow process of building it up and, you know, sometimes you get lucky and it goes viral. So you do get a lot of traffic or sometimes like people really love it and then they all want to get married in those suits, you know. But definitely it did bring a big amount of custom made pieces for, you know, just clients and other celebrities. And that's just, it's amazing. It's really nice.

[A]

That's lovely. Let's talk quickly about your show that's coming up. In terms of the. I always ask the investment that goes into it all, we know it's not cheap. Why is it worth it to you? Again, you've done this last season. Was your last show also. It was a New York Fashion Week based show.

[B]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, it was. It was my debut last season and it was, you know, after LVMH prize, I unfortunately didn't make it to the final. But it did bring a lot of attention into the brand and it did bring a lot of clarity into my mind. And, you know, I think the power of recognition is understimated. You know, it just gave me a boost of energy and encouragement to keep on going. And I thought that New York would be an amazing place to continue the conversation. Because in New York there's such a big Hispanic community that is avid to see themselves represented in fashion. You know, I think people have been. The Hispanic community has been represented in music, you know, movies and the contemporary artists in Mexico are really relevant. But I think fashion hasn't had really a voice until a few years ago with, of course, Willy and Luar. But this, you know, it's kind of more recent. So yeah, this is the second time in New York and I'm very excited.

[A]

Yes. And tell me about not. I think of you and I think menswear, but you have not stuck to the kind of the traditional men's week. You're in the New York Fashion Week, it's largely women's wear. Why this positioning?

[B]

I just think that the brand is a masculine esthetic with more masculine proportions, but that doesn't really mean anything on who is going to wear it. Like, it's whoever just kind of connects with it. And I think honestly, a lot of girls look amazing in oversized or men's clothes and I think it's a matter of identity rather than gender. You know, I think it's about whoever just connects and I think that's why it's interesting. Also, I just feel really comfortable doing more feminine things.

[A]

Love it. Well, if this show goes to success, what does that mean in your eyes? You're like, that was a winner. What does that mean translate to a lot of, I don't know, social media love or against maybe buyers orders? I mean.

[B]

Yeah, I think. I think it's a marathon, not a sprint.

[A]

Yeah.

[B]

So first of, you know, I'm just really happy with the collection already. I'm satisfied with the work and the quality and the level of the clothes and the collection. And I think success to me would be that, like, you know, I get to pay my American Express by the end of the month and that I get some sleep and. Yeah, of course, I mean, I need sales to increase, you know, every year. And it's been going good, but I think mostly it's feeling satisfied with what I've done and the work that I've put in and. And just also kind of taking my team to a different level of perfection and ability and craft. You know, I think I'm pushing my limits creatively and I'm pushing my limits as a designer, but I'm also pushing my team's limits in terms of what they're able to do with their hands. And that is really important to me.

[A]

Will we see some of your celebrity fans in the front row?

[B]

I hope so. You know, please show up.

[A]

I mean, I hope Nick Jonas is there. That's all I'm saying. Tell me about your training. Where did you learn your craft?

[B]

I am self taught. Wow. Yeah.

[A]

That's amazing.

[B]

Yeah, I mean, I studied marketing. I think when I had to decide what I was going to do for university, I was also kind of coming out with my parents. So it was like either I come out or I go to fashion school. And so I had to, like, make that decision at that time and I decided to, like, come out. So I actually went to marketing and business school. And that's important. Yeah, yeah. I mean, from the beginning, all my assignments were done about something related to fashion. And a couple of years Later I moved to Paris as an exchange student. And like the second week that I got there, I got a job at a fashion magazine with editor Tiffany Godoy, who's currently editor of Vogue Japan.

[A]

Oh, wow.

[B]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. She's now the editor of Vogue Japan. So I worked for her for two years and it was like, should I go to accounting class or should I go to the Dior show? So I mean, for me it was like a no brainer.

[A]

No brainer is right.

[B]

I don't know any accounting, but I remember all those shows very well. And that was mostly my education. And then when I left Paris, I was very sad and I just kind of locked myself in my apartment for a few months and spent all my money doing some samples and came out with a collection a few months later. I think it's been a process, but.

[A]

It'S amazing that you have that business background. Do you have a business partner or you're the creative and the business mind?

[B]

Yeah, I'm the creative and the business mind.

[A]

That's fantastic.

[B]

The only partner in my company.

[A]

Yes. Good for you. And you're selling direct to consumer. Do you also have some retail partners?

[B]

Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. We've been working with H. Lorenzo for some time now. We've been working with assembly in New York. Very surprisingly, the clothes have had, like, really good success in Korea.

[A]

Oh, great.

[B]

And Seoul. Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's been really a very pleasant surprise. Yeah. We also have a boutique in Mexico City. It's really nice. It feels like a little home to the brand. And I think it's important to have a space just because you're able to give clothes some context. And that's important for sure.

[A]

Who do you say your customer is?

[B]

I would say that is someone that is very aware of the impact that the way you look has on the world. You know, I think it's this identity that you don't have to necessarily describe with words. I think it's just something that, you know, you are without really explaining to anyone. I think it's someone that is also aware about the consequences of fast fashion and they're also very sensitive to the difference between price and value. I think they're two very different things. And I think they're also a little bit daring. And I don't know, I think everyone loves Mexico.

[A]

Yes.

[B]

What's not to love about Mexico?

[A]

Totally. Oh, my gosh. I immediately go to. I mean, this is not in Fashion Week conversation, but I immediately think of like the tariff conversation. Is that something that you're watching closely.

[B]

I am focusing on doing really beautiful clothes and increasing my level of craft. Because if my clothes are very different and very unique, then there's no replacement for them. So the elasticity of the price doesn't is not as relevant. So I'm just trying to do my job as best as I can and have a voice that is very unique, so there's nothing that can't really replace it.

[A]

Right on, right on. Well, speaking of Fashion Week, circling back any traditions that you have, do you always stay at the same place? Do you always get up and, I don't know, work out? Like, what's your Fashion Week tradition?

[B]

I try to drink a lot of water so, like, I don't drop dead or something.

[A]

Yes, Good advice, good habit.

[B]

And then I think fashion is not an easy industry. There's so many amazing designers and there's so many amazing brands. And so I just really try to remember why I'm doing this. And I do it because it really makes me happy. So the tradition is that my working environment has always, always has to be like, positive and welcoming and, and as an emerging designer or a brand that is not very big, I always have a lot of interns and volunteers who are just helping out because they love fashion as well. So I think it's kind of my responsibility to deliver a good experience for them and also to just enjoy what I'm doing if I'm working so hard for it. So I think it's not a tradition, but it's mandatory that you have to have a good attitude and you have to be respectful. And I try to make a lot of jokes. I have this kind of self defense mechanism where, like, I just try to.

[A]

Make people laugh, you know, I think that's so nice. Yes. And what an awesome, like, stage for you and opportunity for these kids to be involved in this show. That's so cool. Tell me your, your long game, your ultimate goals for the company. Are investors coming your way? Are you looking to grow it in a big, big bad way?

[B]

Yeah, I mean, not in a big bad way, because I think craft is something very special that has to be kept and taken care of, you know, so I think I really like the Hermes model, but, you know, ultimately the goal is to create the first Latin American luxury powerhouse, you know, kind of develop into accessories and develop the universe off it. And yeah, I mean, I like to think of it, you know, just craft wise and process wise as kind of a Mexican loewe, you know?

[A]

Yes.

[B]

That's a little bit like where I want to take things. And, yeah, I mean, I am looking for investors, but, you know, I don't think it's only about money. I think it's about, you know, someone that really is willing to get involved and is also a strategic partner that will add something to the company that is not just, you know, cash. Because I need, you know, better distribution and better production, and, you know, like, it's always kind of. It has to grow. So I think an ideal partner is someone that adds also value into the company.

[A]

Yes. I love it. There are a lot of challenges out there to be able to communicate your message about your craft and what you're doing here. I'm sure that's no easy task.

[B]

I mean, honestly, I just try to have the clothes speak for themselves.

[A]

Yeah.

[B]

I think my work should speak for itself.

[A]

Yes. Well, if you had to say your biggest challenge right now, ideally, you'd have more money flowing, or what would you say? Yeah, yeah. The money and the sleep.

[B]

The money and the sleep. Yeah. And I just think that, you know, coming from doing this from Mexico, where it's. We don't have, like, a CFDA or we don't have, like, the Chamber of Syndical in France, or we don't have, like, an association, and, you know, we're also not a fashion capital. So I think that brings a lot of extra challenges and also, like, the purchasing power disparity that we have versus developed countries. I think that's also challenging when you're trying to produce a show. But it's always, you know, I'm always up for a challenge.

[A]

Yes. And I think that this conversation, for anybody that's a budding designer, it really opened their eyes to a lot of the. The facts. What's really happening here in the industry. Do you. Any advice for somebody young and up and coming?

[B]

Yeah. Just remember why you're doing what you're doing, and hard work always pays off. And take care of your mental health also.

[A]

Yes. How many collections are you doing? I hear about the burnout and the demands, but you can pace yourself a little bit.

[B]

Honestly, I would be thrilled to be doing more collections. I only do two a year, but I would do four or six. Like, you know, if I had, like, the necessary infrastructure, I'd be happy to be doing six collections. This is my happy place.

[A]

Yes, no doubt. Oh, my gosh. Someday. And then you can give the people what they want. We're good. I love the goal of. Do you say Mexican? Loewe. Amazing.

[B]

Yeah. I mean, I just love the level of craft they have and also making good quality clothes that are durable and that you can have for a long time. I think that's the ultimate sustainability. Buying less but better.

[A]

Yes. Love that you're focusing on sustainability. I didn't. We didn't even go into that, but right on. Patricio, thank you for being here right before your show and making time for us. This was fantastic.

[B]

It was amazing. Thank you so much for this interview. It was such a pleasure speaking to you.

[A]

You as well. That's all for this episode. Our theme music is by Otis McDonald. Be sure to give us a rating on Apple Podcasts or wherever you're listening to the Glossy Podcast. See you next week.