Jonathan Cohen's co-founders on balancing creative and business priorities at NYFW

Summary

The Glossy Podcast: A Deep Dive into Balancing Creativity and Business at NYFW with Jonathan Cohen and Sarah Left

Release Date: February 10, 2025
Episode Title: Jonathan Cohen's Co-Founders on Balancing Creative and Business Priorities at NYFW

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Introduction: Meet Jonathan Cohen and Sarah Left

In this insightful episode of The Glossy Podcast, host Jill Manoff sits down with Jonathan Cohen, the creative force behind the 14-year-old Jonathan Cohen brand, and Sarah Left, the company’s CEO. As New York Fashion Week (NYFW) approaches, the duo prepares to unveil their Fall 2025 collection at Rockefeller Center, featuring inspiring women and innovative collaborations with accessory brands.

Reimagining the NYFW Presentation Format

Jonathan and Sarah discuss their strategic decision to adopt a new presentation format for their upcoming NYFW showcase.

Jonathan Cohen [01:26]: "Post-pandemic, Sarah and I always said that we wanted to just do what we felt was best for that particular collection."

They emphasize the importance of tailoring the presentation to fit the collection's unique narrative, moving beyond traditional runway shows to incorporate static presentations and video elements. This season marks a departure from their usual format as they strive to create a more engaging and content-rich experience.

Balancing Creativity with Business Acumen

A central theme of the conversation revolves around the dynamic interplay between creative vision and business strategy within the brand.

Jonathan Cohen [03:09]: "I think it's always been a push and pull, you know, and really kind of finding a balance between those two because both are very important to us."

Jonathan highlights his upbringing in a business-oriented household juxtaposed with his passion for fashion and art. Sarah complements this by describing their relationship as "yin and yang," where she seamlessly integrates business insights without stifling Jonathan's creative impulses.

Sarah Left [04:31]: "The one person who's going to buy a custom piece of this is so important to really honor the person who understands what actually went into that collection." [04:31]

A Partnership Forged at Parsons

The founders delve into their origins, meeting at Parsons School of Design, and how their complementary backgrounds have shaped the brand.

Sarah Left [05:32]: "Jonathan and I met freshman year and he was in fashion and I was in business, and we would always just chat together."

Sarah’s education in design and management provided a foundation for understanding both the creative and commercial aspects of the fashion industry, fostering a collaborative environment from the outset.

Authenticity: The Key to Connecting with Consumers

Jonathan and Sarah discuss the evolving landscape of consumer expectations and the critical role of authenticity in brand longevity.

Jonathan Cohen [05:42]: "I think your consumer is very savvy and they can really like smell through something that's not authentic." [05:42]

They stress staying true to the brand’s essence, believing that heartfelt design resonates deeply with consumers. This commitment to authenticity has sustained the brand for over a decade, allowing them to maintain a loyal customer base while attracting new followers.

Expanding Horizons: Collaborations and Global Support

The conversation shifts to the brand’s collaborations, particularly with Marina Larude for footwear, and the strategic planning behind these partnerships.

Sarah Left [10:15]: "We've been lucky enough to partner with Marina Larude and do shoes." [10:15]

Jonathan elaborates on how collaborations serve as trial runs for entering new product categories, enabling both brands to gauge customer responses and refine their offerings accordingly.

Jonathan Cohen [10:38]: "They really exceed my expectations." [10:38]

Navigating Challenges: Sustainability and Financial Constraints

Jonathan candidly addresses the financial challenges inherent in the fashion industry, especially when adhering to sustainable practices.

Jonathan Cohen [13:03]: "Money. Everyone could always use more money. So that's always a challenge for anybody." [13:03]

Maintaining high-quality, sustainable production standards increases costs, presenting a constant balancing act between ethical responsibility and financial viability.

Retail Strategy: Wholesale and Direct-to-Consumer Balance

Sarah outlines the brand’s evolution from a purely wholesale model to incorporating a robust direct-to-consumer approach.

Sarah Left [14:19]: "We actually launched with a wholesale business. So we were solely wholesale until 2019 when we launched our own e-commerce called the Studio." [14:19]

The integration of e-commerce and pop-up residencies has allowed Jonathan Cohen to reach a broader audience, while partnerships with established retailers like Neiman’s have introduced the brand to diverse consumer segments.

Jonathan Cohen [15:38]: "Neiman's really came in and started buying our tailoring pieces and our jackets and our trousers." [15:38]

Future Growth: Innovative Initiatives and Storytelling

Looking ahead, Jonathan and Sarah share their excitement for upcoming collaborations and initiatives aimed at fostering deeper connections with their audience.

Sarah Left [18:57]: "Starting on the 12th, that will go live again both on our website and our newsletter." [18:57]

They plan to relaunch their "In the Studio" series, featuring weekly conversations with inspiring women, further cementing their commitment to storytelling and community engagement.

Conclusion: Embracing the Present While Planning for the Future

As the episode wraps up, Jonathan and Sarah emphasize the importance of living in the moment while remaining adaptable to the ever-changing fashion landscape.

Jonathan Cohen [18:23]: "We're always, like, thinking of what, like, what's next, but also trying to live in the moment of what we're doing now." [18:23]

Their holistic approach combines creative integrity with strategic business practices, ensuring the brand remains relevant and resilient in a competitive industry.

Final Thoughts

This episode of The Glossy Podcast offers a comprehensive look into how Jonathan Cohen and Sarah Left skillfully navigate the complexities of running a fashion brand. From innovative NYFW presentations to maintaining authenticity and embracing collaborations, their insights provide valuable lessons for anyone interested in the intersection of creativity and commerce in the fashion world.

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For more episodes exploring the impact of technology and innovation in fashion and luxury, subscribe to The Glossy Podcast and stay tuned for weekly insights from industry changemakers.

Transcript

[Sarah Left]

Foreign.

[Jill Manoff]

Thanks for tuning in to this New York Fashion Week edition of the glossy podcast. I'm your host, Jill Manoff, and today I'm sitting down with designer Jonathan Cohen and CEO Sarah Left. The creative and the business mind behind the 14 year old Jonathan Cohen brand. This New York Fashion Week. Jonathan Cohen will be showing its fall 2025 collection in a presentation at Rockefeller center that will also incorporate inspiring women and new collaborations with accessories brands. So I wanted to ask Jonathan and Sarah why the show's format makes sense for the business. I also wanted to dig into their unique partnership and the benefits of coming out of fashion school with a co founder already intact. Welcome to you, Jonathan.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Thank you for having us.

[Jill Manoff]

Thanks for being here. And hi, Sarah, welcome.

[Sarah Left]

Hi. Thank you for having me.

[Jill Manoff]

Of course. Oh, wow. It's crunch time. What's going on? What's the shenanigans today? Are we models, fittings? What are you up to?

[Jonathan Cohen]

Well, luckily we just had a two day photo shoot on Sunday and Monday, so we finished that and now we're just like editing the photos and kind of getting ready for the presentation, which is going to be like a new format for us. So we're really excited about it.

[Jill Manoff]

Yeah. Yes. Is it typically a Runway show or. Tell me about the new format. What's new for us?

[Jonathan Cohen]

Post pandemic. Sarah and I always said that we wanted to just do what we felt was best for that particular collection. And, you know, we really look like, you know, partially way when we're designing a collection, what we feel is gonna be the best way to present it to the fashion world and to the public. So, you know, we've done Runway shows, we've done, you know, static presentations, we've done videos. And this season, when we were really looking at everything, we really wanted to do something a little different. So Sarah and I brainstormed for a good amount of time to figure out what that would be and just kind of going back and forth, landed on this new concept for us, which we're really excited about. But yeah, it's always a conversation of, like, what's gonna be best for the collection for this fashion week? What. What's the best part for the business? What's gonna, you know, create the most content that we really believe in, Just new things that we always have to think about. You know, it was very different when we started.

[Jill Manoff]

Yeah, for sure.

[Sarah Left]

And there's always a story behind every collection. So we try to really honor and be true to what the story of that season is. And this season really has been Special to us just because we started this, I think in April of last year, like the initial concept of what Jonathan wanted and what the research process was and what like really delving into the topic for the fabrics, the textiles. So we wanted to find a medium that allowed us to really storytell and not lose anything in the process, but also be true to kind of where we are with the business and what's going on in the world.

[Jill Manoff]

Yes. 14 years into the business, are you, you're like a well oiled machine or is there still this tug of war between like the creative trying to get too crazy and the business side reeling you in, bringing you back down, down to earth?

[Jonathan Cohen]

I think it's always been a push and pull, you know, and really kind of finding a balance between those two because both are very important to us. You know, we, we grew up in very like business minded households. But I was also like, you know, fashion and art was always my creative escape. So you know, I'm very protective of that as well. And more so as I've gotten older, you know, and the world's gotten crazier, you know, I'm very protective of like protecting that creativeness. But we're always having those conversations of how we stay creative and how we push the boundaries, but also how do we create pieces that people want to buy and really invest into. So for me it's never one or the other. It's a balance.

[Sarah Left]

Yeah, I think Jonathan and I in our relationship is very yin and yang. I think when it goes into it, I personally understand his development status is and where to kind of interject myself or to let his brain flow. And it always comes to like a great conclusion on like everything that we do need for the business and being able to tell the creative vision. There's always pieces that are necessary for the collection that you need to storytell and vision and dream about. And they might not be something we intend to produce 10 or 20 units of, but the one person who's going to buy a custom piece of this is so important to really honor the person who understands what actually went into that collection.

[Jill Manoff]

For sure. I gotta circle back really quick. You've met at Parsons. Yeah. And Sarah is so interesting. I don't know that I've never met somebody that didn't go to Parsons and want to be a designer. Like I only talked to designers from Parsons. But was your goal to I want to run a fashion brand or what was your vision? And, and yes, tell me about that.

[Sarah Left]

So I study design and management at Parsons with The goal to understand like the creative industry in the business mind. So Jonathan and I met freshman year and he was in fashion and I was in business and we would always just chat together. We both interned since day one and we would brainstorm and share each other's experience, like what we're studying in classes and you know, what we were doing in our internships. But for me, I always loved the creative process, but I always looked at the business behind and understanding the mind that went into it and how to translate that into a business. So in school, obviously it translated more to just fashion. It was any kind of creative force if it meant photography, architecture and fashion. But it was really great experience to kind of be side by side with designers every day.

[Jill Manoff]

So cool. What would you say again in talking about planning for this show and this collection from a business point of view, like, what is the consumer demanding these days?

[Jonathan Cohen]

You know, I think it's so different and there's so many different consumers now. And because of social media and the Internet, there's so many different ways of reaching your consumer. But you know, I think your consumer is very savvy and they can really like smell through something that's not authentic. So I think you really need to be authentic to the brand and to yourself and especially when you're making these decisions because they'll see it right away. So I think it's always something that feels natural and feels true to the brand and I think that ends up responding well to our consumer. You know, when we first started the company, someone from a museum told me that like, whatever you design with your heart is gonna reach, you know, your customer, like from hand to heart. And that always something that really stood true to us. And we just feel like we really stay true and are very authentic, that our customer and new customers will really respond to that. And I think that's what's kind of made the brand so that we've been able to be around, which I didn't realize it's 14 years. So yeah, to me it's like it stopped at 10. You know, we just like stayed on our 10 year anniversary and we never. I'm just like, yeah, it's been 10 years.

[Jill Manoff]

Like my 30th birthday. No, no, no, no, no.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Exactly, exactly.

[Jill Manoff]

I love it. Well, there's a New York element. We don't have to give away too much. But is that part of like, that's what's connected to the brand? That's what's telling your story? That's. That's what you want to convey right now, like, what you're known for is being a New York brand with the. With this amazing community.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah, well, and outside New York, we had, and you'll see when you see the collection, we had a lot of women who like, flew in outside of New York. You know, we had people from California come in. We had some people from Italy come in that have really supported us because we have had so much support worldwide now. So we really wanted to convey that. So you'll see that in the casting.

[Jill Manoff]

Amazing.

[Jonathan Cohen]

So it was really special. Yeah.

[Jill Manoff]

It's a marketing moment. It's a chance to really, I don't know, churn out some content. Tell me what other goals you have for this show.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah, well, exactly what you said with the content. You know, it's something that, like, it took me a while to really understand that because I, you know, when we first started the company, like, Instagram wasn't even around yet. And you really need to think of something that's gonna last for the next. I know. How long would you say, Sarah? Like, six months. So we really need to plan that.

[Sarah Left]

I mean, because if you think of it, at any given time, we're working nine months in advance. So it's always the conversation with the consumer, like, what they're going to see right now on the per se Runway or market, like, when are they getting into their hands, when. If they fall in love with it now, like, when will they be able to experience it? And I think that's something that we did take into consideration. Like, we've always done pre orders for the pieces.

[Jill Manoff]

Nice.

[Sarah Left]

But we're excited because, like, our spring collection just launched on our site two weeks ago. So, you know, we drive and it's driven of pushing people there to kind of experience what they saw last Fashion Week and then what they'll see on Sunday and what images will come out will really be something that they can dream of. Start May. And I think the way what we're doing with launching this, you know, it's more than just Fashion Week to us. So it's really a 16 to 18 week plan of how these images will come to life for our brand.

[Jill Manoff]

Got it. When you guys do preorder, is it through Moda or are you guys doing it independently?

[Sarah Left]

We do it via our site and then depending on some of our retailers choose it. I think, you know, every season with the consumer market, people approach it differently with how preorders work. It allows us to choose pieces that maybe don't retail into a store to still fulfill for Our customer.

[Jill Manoff]

Nice. When you're working nine months out, does that. Is that also in terms of planning collaborations or is that way further out?

[Jonathan Cohen]

No, it's kind of. It's a mix.

[Sarah Left]

It's way further out.

[Jonathan Cohen]

There's, like, a collaboration that, you know, we're launching later on this year that's been in the works for, like, a year and a half now. Two and a half years.

[Sarah Left]

Yeah.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Two and a half years. You're right.

[Sarah Left]

Two years now.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah. Yeah. So there's that, and then we have two collaborations coming out for this collection that we've been planning for the last six months. So it kind of depends on, like, kind of the size of the company. You know, sort of the smaller the company, the. The quicker we can turn things around. You know, when you get into more corporate collaborations, that's a much longer process.

[Sarah Left]

It's also the seasonal versus just overall scope. So, like, obviously, every season, we've been lucky enough to partner with Marina Larude and do shoes.

[Jill Manoff]

Yes.

[Sarah Left]

And so for us, those shoes will obviously be seen in the imagery and everything on the 9th. And then on top of that, we will be offering sooner than later pre order. And because of the business model with Marina, it's. It has a quicker turnaround time.

[Jill Manoff]

Oh, I know this model. Marina and Ricardo are brilliant, right?

[Jonathan Cohen]

Brilliant.

[Sarah Left]

Yeah, they're amazing. And then we're also lucky enough that our spring shoes that you saw, everyone, like, saw inspiration of in September will be coming out the first week of March. So that's kind of the buy now, wear now moment that you'll be able to grab those sandals and grab ballet flats to wear through March on spring break and everything in between.

[Jill Manoff]

Amazing. Is it typically or in the past, have your collaborations really been a trial run for maybe bringing that into your mainline, whatever that style is? We don't yet have handbags, but we're gonna try a collab. If they love it, we'll launch it.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Absolutely. I mean, I think the whole thing about a collab for both parties is like finding, you know, the best person in that category that can really execute what you want and really testing it out and seeing how both customers from both companies react to it. So I think it is absolutely a great trial run, and it's a great way to learn like. Like the shoe industry or whatever industry you're, like, kind of collaborating with. It's a great way to learn about it before you kind of dive into it. But I think the great thing about La Roude is that they've been so supportive and really believe in everything that we're doing, and we believe in them. So it's almost like we call it a residency, not necessarily collaboration, because it really is that. And she knows how to make shoes, and she knows how to make shoes in a really beautiful way. So, you know, really is great because I can just show her a sketch and show her these ideas, and then they just like, kind of whip them up, and they always, like, kind of exceed my expectations.

[Jill Manoff]

Fantastic.

[Sarah Left]

Yeah, they're really in it for the collaborative process. It's not one way. It's not like our way or the highway. It very much is like, what works for us, where we're seeing reaction from our customers and also understanding what their customers are reacting to for the good and bad. Like, we might see a specific style that you see only a certain size is wearing, or like a woman above a size X is not buying into these shapes. Again, we consider that and how we plan in the future.

[Jill Manoff]

Yes. I wanted to ask you guys, what's challenging you now tends to come up. The answer is money, basically. But how would you say longevity in the industry, and are you guys working in an independently owned brand or has that been a challenge, or is there another challenge that's really, like, keeping you up at night?

[Jonathan Cohen]

I mean, I think it's a really challenging industry in general, and it's a constantly changing industry. So, like, you're kind of constantly have to pivot and, you know, find new ways to do business. I mean, money. I mean, everyone could always use more money. So that's always a challenge for anybody.

[Jill Manoff]

Right on.

[Jonathan Cohen]

You know, it's expensive, you know, and we really don't compromise on our product, you know, and our vision. And we do use, like, the best fabrics and, you know, the best ateliers. And that's really important to us. And, you know, we're also, like, we've always been very much like a, you know, quote unquote, sustainable brand. However you want to see that. And, you know, doing that, it does cost more. And I think that's, you know, always been a challenge is like, how we stick to our values, but also, you know, are able to, like, have a life for ourselves, which is also something, as we've gotten older, we realize is, like, very important that we deserve, you know, when we were younger, it was very much like we would sacrifice our own needs for the company. Now we're realizing, like, no, we also deserve to have, like, you know, to have something to show for that and is our livelihood. So we take it very seriously.

[Jill Manoff]

You're a good influence on me. How are you working with retailers to date? Are you building up your direct business or has that always been kind of the core of the business?

[Sarah Left]

We actually launched with a wholesale business. So we were solely wholesale until 2019 when we launched our own e commerce called the Studio, which initially launched as a platform for us to work on our sustainability, that we did one of just small runs of our bestselling garments in fabric remnants and that we had left over. And with the Pandemic, we kind of revisited that direction. So we first launched our flower shop during the Pandemic in which was a digital platform. And from there we launched in 2021 our own e commerce. And you know, an E commerce ebbs and flows, but it's been a great platform for us to believe in styles and produce them that maybe just don't fit right into a retailer. And in 2022 we launched a pop up that was supposed to be six weeks that turned into a 13 month residency on the Upper east side. So, you know, we really have an ebb and flow and the balance changes constantly. But we do have a good direct to consumer business. We have a very healthy custom business and then we work on a wholesale level with a lot of retailers who are family at this point, no doubt. We launched a Neiman's two seasons ago and they've been a phenomenal partner for us. And it really allows like a different consumer to kind of be introduced to who we are as a brand. And their buy differs than those specialty stores who we've been working with for 13 plus years.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah, which has been amazing to see with Neiman's because, you know, for so long we were really known for our printed dresses. Like that was always like our bread and butter for the brand. And then Neiman's really came in and, you know, in a very exciting way started buying our tailoring pieces and our jackets and our trousers. And that from a design perspective was really exciting because, you know, as much as I love our prints and you know, it's been such a anchor for the brand and our customer, to be able to kind of now see them buying into like our blazers and our more tailored pieces has been really exciting. So I think, you know, because we treat them all the same in the sense that when we do a print, you know, we really try to make a print that like it'll be that print in 10 years, so that specific item will really always be in your closet. And we treat that the same with like our blazers and our jackets and our Coats. And, you know, I'm really excited for this season because I think our customer is going to be really excited to see, like, these new types of pieces that we're doing for them, so, you know, that they can add on to those prints that they've been buying for so many years.

[Jill Manoff]

Nice.

[Sarah Left]

I think it's also heavily influenced who we are as people, as we've grown. Like, we started this brand when we were babies, so how we dressed and looked at our attire has changed, too. I mean, I wear a Jonathan Cohen piece every day. And it's been funny because I've been revisiting, like, what, like, our archive and pulling pieces from 10 years ago and what those pieces were and how to incorporate them with, like, the pieces that are retailing today. We've just grown up, so we have different needs or fit. You know, our desire of, like, sexiness and necklines has kind of played over time. And this season, I think, is a really nice growth area for us.

[Jill Manoff]

Yes. Let's talk a little bit about that growth moving forward. Opportunities you see in the year ahead, potentially new categories, new types of products, Maybe a store based on that residency. Tell me what you're looking at.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Oh, you know, it's so hard when people ask about the future, because post Pandemic, I became very, you know, everything became so much about the day, you know, that I'm really from a just a design perspective. I really try to just look at, like, what's going on now, because so much pivots so quickly. But we have, like we said, a very exciting collaboration coming out this year. We're very excited for, you know, what we're doing on Sunday and where that could take us. Cause I think it's gonna be a very new, fresh way of seeing the collection for a lot of people. And I think we just, like, you know, we're always, like, thinking of what, like, what's next, but also trying to live in the moment of what we're doing now, because I think that's become very important, you know, for the customer as well. You know, to just be able to, like, not overwhelm them and really, like, stay focused.

[Sarah Left]

I think one big thing that's a kind of immediate also happening for us is that is, like, the relaunch of our in the studio. We launched that in 2019, and that was a great platform that always carried on conversations, inviting women in our lives and who inspire us and storytelling and our consumers and just people within the industry have always spoken to us and reached out how much they appreciate those conversations. So starting on the 12th, that will go live again both on our website and our newsletter. And we're just really excited to be having those weekly conversations and sharing the women who, to us, are inspirational.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah. And who wear the clothes and who, you know, it's. Those pieces are incorporated in their everyday wardrobe and have really been following the brand for years. And, you know, I think you'll see such a vast variety of women that, like, talk about the brand, and it's been really special to see. And it's also great because you'll get to, like, meet people who, like, make our clothes and, you know, don't want to give too much away.

[Jill Manoff]

But as I was going to say, if all the in your. In our studio women show up, I mean, it's going to be a CNB scene event.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Yeah.

[Jill Manoff]

It's going to be amazing. Amazing. I'm so looking forward to it. Well, you guys, I think we did it. Back to work. This was wonderful.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Thank you so much. This was great.

[Jill Manoff]

Thanks so much for being here. Yeah. Good luck this season.

[Jonathan Cohen]

Thank you. We appreciate it.

[Jill Manoff]

That's all for this episode. Our theme music is by Otis McDonald. If you liked this episode, be sure to share it with someone else you think would. Thanks for listening to the glossy podcast.