The Glossy Podcast: Ranking Fashion Month’s Creative Director Debuts

Date: October 10, 2025
Host: Danny Parisi
Co-hosts: Zofia Zyglińska (International Reporter), Jill Manoff (Editor-in-Chief)
Theme: The hosts grade and debate the many creative director debuts from the current Fashion Month, using a tongue-in-cheek "scientific" rubric method to score shows at Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Loewe, Balenciaga, and Chanel. The episode opens with a concise news segment covering gold prices and a labor probe at Tod’s.

Episode Overview

This episode dives into the season’s unprecedented number of creative director debuts at major European fashion houses. The Glossy team discusses each show’s clothes, brand consistency, showmanship, industry reception, and business impact—yielding a ranked list of winners and losers. The episode’s tone is analytical but playful, revealing both insider opinions and broader industry trends.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. News Briefs

Skyrocketing Gold Prices

• [00:17-07:45]
  • Gold reaches $4,000/oz for the first time, up 50% for the year. This signals economic instability and inflation reminiscent of 1979.
  • Major impact on jewelry and watchmakers (e.g., Rolex, Pandora) forcing price hikes.
  • Zofia: “Pandora has the benefit, I guess, of going after the recycled gold market... but obviously, I don't know if that is affected by baseline gold prices as well, because I would assume that smelting is smelting. So you're probably affected both ways.” [03:16]
  • Broader indicators suggest a shaky economy and potential early recession triggers.

Tod’s Labor Practices Investigation

• [07:45-13:15]
  • Italian luxury brand Tod’s faces investigation for alleged poor labor conditions among subcontractors, joining peers like Valentino and Dior.
  • Zofia: “It kind of tests the accountability for the made in Italy label, which I think a lot of luxury brands have been leaning heavily on... even legacy brands like Tod’s aren't immune to these kind of crackdowns.” [09:00]
  • Possibility of stricter regulations and a new Italian legal compliance certification for luxury supply chains.

2. Main Feature: Grading Fashion Month’s Big Debuts

[13:57-77:41]

The hosts choose six major creative director debuts, scoring each using a five-part rubric:

1. Clothes: Visual impact and desirability.
2. Brand Consistency: How well the debut fits the house’s DNA.
3. Show/Spectacle: The runway or creative presentation.
4. Reception: Audience and critical response.
5. Business Impact: Immediate and projected effects on brand desirability and sales.

Brands & Designers (in discussion order):

• Gucci – Demna
• Bottega Veneta – Louise Trotter
• Dior – Jonathan Anderson
• Loewe – Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez
• Balenciaga – Pierpaolo Piccioli
• Chanel – Matthieu Blazy

A. Gucci: Demna’s Highly Anticipated Arrival

[17:29-28:40]

• Clothes: Bold, elegant yet edgy (Danny: 5, Zofia: 3, Jill: 3.5)
  • Quote: “There was like a focus on Gucci-ness…very elegant with a little bit edgy, like 80% elegant, 20% edgy. And I thought that was the perfect balance for Gucci.” – Danny [18:01]
• Brand Consistency: Referenced brand history; somewhat seamless (Average: 3.5–4)
• Show: No traditional runway; released as a cinematic lookbook (Danny: 2, Zofia: 5 for spectacle, Jill: 3.5)
  • Quote: “The film release was queerly interesting. It's like the first time I've seen a film-film…actually just about putting out something new.” – Zofia [22:45]
• Reception: Good excitement, expectations are high (all: 4)
• Business Impact: Immediate jump in store traffic, strategic see-now-buy-now capsule (Danny: 4, Zofia: 5, Jill: 4)
  • Notable: 53% foot traffic increase reported by Placer AI in the US post-launch.

B. Bottega Veneta: Louise Trotter’s Masterful Continuity

[28:40-36:56]

• Clothes: Textural, tactile, feminine, and cleverly crafted (unanimous 4)
• Brand Consistency: Seamless continuation, respectful of house codes (all: 5)
  • Quote: “She spent a lot of time…looking at archival pieces from 1966 and 67…[T]his one felt the most like that actually happened.” – Danny [31:18]
• Show: Held in a zinc factory, star-studded but conventional (Danny: 2, Zofia: 3, Jill: 1)
• Reception: Strong critical approval but less social media buzz (3.5–4)
  • “Bottega delivered many instant Wishlist pieces…will no doubt build immediate waiting lists.” – Zofia citing Simon Longland, Harrods [34:24]
• Business Impact: Buyers pleased, brand stability maintained (avg: 4–4.5)

C. Dior: Jonathan Anderson Reinvents a Classic

[36:56-47:01]

• Clothes: Gothic, dramatic, with standout hats and silhouettes (average: 3.5–4)
• Brand Consistency: Reinventing staples, bar jackets, bows, innovative but respectful (Danny: 3, Zofia: 4, Jill: 4)
• Show: Visually arresting, inverted pyramid set, horror film motif (Danny: 5, Zofia: 4, Jill: 4)
  • Quote: “It was all about that intro film…It definitely called out what he’s doing with the brand in terms of the references of the past. I don’t know, the horror of it all.” – Jill [41:50]
• Reception: Critics and guests were mixed; strong in-person ovation but some confusion about direction (range: 3–5)
• Business Impact: (all: 4) Accessories (shoes, bags) praised, ready-to-wear energized, “Jonathan Anderson has fans of his own that are following him around from brand to brand.” – Jill [46:24]

D. Loewe: Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez’s Sunny Debut

[47:01-55:29]

• Clothes: Bright, Mediterranean, summery, wearable (avg: 3.5–4)
• Brand Consistency: Straddling Loewe tradition and the new designers’ Proenza Schouler vibe (all: 3)
  • “It was Loewe by way of their own lens, which is probably what you should be doing.” – Jill [50:28]
• Show: Artful theme, but little spectacle (2–3)
• Reception: Solid but not buzzy; buyers pleased but less social noise (3–3.5)
• Business Impact: Steady, wearable, not “blowing the roof off” (3–4)

E. Balenciaga: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Safe Haven

[55:29-63:11]

• Clothes: Elegant, colorful, yet underwhelming; not “fashion shattering” (avg: 3–3.5)
• Brand Consistency: Departure from Demna’s streetwear; more Valentino-like (Danny: 2, Zofia: 2, Jill: 3)
  • “I kind of feel like he came into it and just continued doing what he was already doing a little bit.” – Danny [56:52]
• Show: Notable for star guests (Meghan Markle), little production value (avg: 2–3)
• Reception: Mixed; some return to roots but not a “wow” moment (all: 3)
  • Quote: “Impeccable but not fashion shattering.” – Vanessa Friedman, NYT [60:08]
• Business Impact: Safe, sales likely solid but not spectacular (2.5–3)

F. Chanel: Matthieu Blazy’s Rapturous Triumph

[63:11-73:20]

• Clothes: Showstopping, vibrant, universally praised (all: 5)
• Brand Consistency: Balances house codes (tweed, feathers, camellias, pearls) with refreshing twists (Danny: 3, Zofia: 5, Jill: 3.5)
• Show: Galactic visual set, joyful energy, standout closing with model’s playful runway dance (all: 4)
  • “That last look with the feathered skirt and the silk T-shirt was so…I agree.” – Danny [64:43]
• Reception: Overwhelming industry and buyer enthusiasm, huge expectations met (all: 5)
  • “Blazy delivered a debut that was nothing short of a masterclass.” – Zofia quoting Simon Longland, Harrods [69:41]
• Business Impact: Brand already strong but stands to gain more buzz and relevance (Danny: 5, Zofia: 4, Jill: 5)

Scoring Summary & Final Rankings

[73:20-77:41]

Total Scores (lowest to highest):

• Balenciaga: 41.5
• Loewe: 48.5
• Bottega Veneta: 57
• Dior: 58.5
• Gucci: 58.5
• Chanel: 67.5

Chanel is the clear winner with its “masterclass” debut under Matthieu Blazy. Balenciaga under Piccioli underwhelmed, perhaps as an inevitable reaction after Demna’s disruptive tenure.

Notable Quotes & Moments (with Timestamps)

• On the challenge of creative director debuts:
  “There’s so much expectation placed on creative directors right now… Maybe also it’s a little bit of standing in someone’s shadow…” – Zofia [74:32]
• On Chanel’s transformation:
  “This is the show of the season and so, so much pressure and really hit it out of the park.” – Jill [70:30]
• On expectation vs. reality:
  “If Chanel looks the same as before, I will be super upset. So they wanted him to do something a little different, and he did.” – Danny [65:43]
• On the state of gold and wealth signals in fashion:
  “Gold hasn't rallied this kind of dramatically since 1979, which was the last time that we had very, very heavy inflation and geopolitical instability as well.” – Zofia [06:21]
• On labor probes and luxury branding:
  “It kind of tests the accountability for the made in Italy label, which... assumes quality, but exposes the kind of outsourcing happening in reality.” – Zofia [09:00]
• On Dior's horror theming:
  “I do think at some point in the future, there's something interesting to be written about the overlap between high fashion and horror imagery, because it fits really well together.” – Danny [40:28]
• Mega-brands under pressure:
  “Chanel’s a 20 billion pound business. I said to him, you have one responsibility and that is I don’t want a decrease.” – Danny quoting Chanel’s president [71:39]

Conclusion

Chanel and Matthieu Blazy emerge as the unequivocal winners of Fashion Month’s creative director musical chairs. The team credits a balance of legacy and reinvention for his success. Meanwhile, Demna’s Gucci debut and Jonathan Anderson at Dior are marked as promising, while Balenciaga is seen as needing more time to settle post-Demna.

The scoring process, playful in its “scientific” rigor, reflects the mood of an industry at a pivotal moment marked by high expectations, cautious optimism, and a longing for both stability and innovation.