The Glossy Podcast - Episode: Tariffs, HanesBrands Acquired, Willy Chavarria's Apology — and a Roundtable on the State of Sneakers

Release Date: August 15, 2025

Hosted by senior fashion reporter Danny Parisi and editor-in-chief Jill Manoff, this episode of The Glossy Podcast delves into significant developments impacting the fashion and luxury industries. Covering topics from international trade tariffs to major acquisitions and controversies within sneaker culture, the episode offers comprehensive insights into current market dynamics and future trends.

1. Tariffs Update

Duration: [01:00 – 12:16]

Danny Parisi initiates the discussion with an in-depth update on the ongoing U.S.-China trade negotiations, highlighting the latest development where President Trump has delayed tariffs on China for an additional 90 days as of August 14, 2025. This extension exemplifies the unpredictability surrounding tariff implementations, complicating strategic planning for brands.

Key Points:

• Uncertainty and Planning Challenges: Both hosts agree that the constant changes in tariff policies create a chaotic environment for brands, making it nearly impossible to formulate long-term strategies. Jill Manoff notes, “[The unpredictability] makes it impossible to plan for anything when it changes all the time” (00:49).

• Impact on Small vs. Large Brands: Smaller brands like Rude struggle to negotiate favorable terms, as Jill explains, “They're just waiting for that to happen, and it could put them in a big bind” (05:51). In contrast, larger companies might better absorb the financial strain due to their extensive resources.

• Potential Price Increases: With tariffs currently at 30%, there is a looming threat of brands passing these costs onto consumers. Jill mentions specific rates, such as a 39% tariff on Swiss watches, which has alarmed the luxury watch industry (07:40).

• Complexity and Ethical Concerns: Danny raises concerns about the complexity of the tariff system, suggesting it could lead to corruption and underhanded deals as brands navigate the convoluted regulations (12:16).

2. Gildan's Acquisition of HanesBrands

Duration: [12:21 – 17:59]

The podcast shifts focus to a significant merger in the apparel industry: Gildan's acquisition of HanesBrands for $2 billion. This deal consolidates two major players in the basic apparel sector, particularly in the T-shirt market.

Key Points:

• Market Consolidation: Jill Manoff expresses surprise at characterizing Hanes as "under the radar," noting its iconic presence and recent collaborations with brands like Redone and Urban Outfitters (14:25).

• Strategic Motivations: Danny Parisi connects the acquisition to the current tariff uncertainty, suggesting that mergers and acquisitions (M&A) are strategic moves for companies to strengthen their position amid economic unpredictability. He cites other recent M&A activities, indicating a broader trend of consolidation in the fashion industry (17:23).

• Growth and Negotiation Power: Jill highlights that larger merged entities can negotiate better terms with suppliers and navigate tariff challenges more effectively, fostering resilience during turbulent economic periods (14:44).

3. Willy Chavarria's Apology and Adidas Collaboration Controversy

Duration: [17:59 – 24:44]

The episode addresses a controversy involving designer Willy Chavarria and Adidas over the creation of an Oaxacan-inspired sneaker. The design, reminiscent of traditional huarache sandals, sparked backlash due to the lack of involvement from the Oaxacan community.

Key Points:

• Cultural Appropriation Concerns: Willy Chavarria and Adidas faced criticism for creating a product inspired by Oaxacan culture without meaningful collaboration with local artisans. Jill Manoff questions whether this is part of a broader pattern of brands misappropriating cultural elements without proper representation (19:53).

• Apology and Remediation Efforts: Willy Chavarria publicly apologized and committed to working with the state of Oaxaca to compensate and involve the community in future projects, aiming to rectify the oversight (23:13).

• Industry-Wide Implications: The hosts discuss similar incidents with brands like Zara, Anthropologie, Louis Vuitton, and Carolina Herrera, emphasizing the growing need for brands to approach cultural inspirations with respect and genuine collaboration (22:37).

4. Roundtable Discussion: The State of Sneakers

Duration: [26:43 – 50:39]

Post-break, the episode transitions to a roundtable discussion with Jill Manoff and international reporter Zofia Zvaglinska, focusing on the evolving sneaker market.

Key Points:

a. Aesthetic Shifts in Sneaker Design

• Trend Toward Slim Profiles: The hosts observe a move from bulky, statement sneakers like the Balenciaga Triple S to slimmer, more understated models such as Adidas Samba and Puma Speed Cat (28:35).

• Influence of Female Consumers: Zofia notes that many of the current popular sneaker styles appeal to women seeking comfort and versatility, integrating seamlessly with various outfits (30:10).

b. Resale Market Dynamics

• Decline in Resale Prices: Danny Parisi highlights a 6% drop in the resale value of sneakers, with fewer models selling above retail prices compared to previous years (32:16).

• Niche Communities: Zofia reports that the sneaker enthusiast community has become more specialized, focusing on rare editions and authentic collections, as discussed with Brendan Dunn from StockX (34:12).

c. Influence of Athletes and Nostalgia

• Athlete-Endorsed Sneakers: The discussion points out that collaborations with athletes, such as those from the WNBA, continue to drive demand, with signature shoes like Caitlin Clark's selling at double their retail prices (40:33).

• Nostalgia-Driven Purchases: Both hosts mention a resurgence in the popularity of vintage and retro models, driven by consumers' desire to reconnect with styles from their youth (42:47).

d. Impact of Tariffs on Sneaker Brands

• Financial Strain on Brands: The conversation circles back to how tariffs are affecting sneaker brands, with companies like Puma experiencing significant stock drops due to increased costs (45:55).

• Consumer Resilience: Despite price hikes, core sneaker collectors remain loyal, indifferent to moderate price increases as the cultural and historical value of sneakers remains paramount (46:38).

e. Future Outlook and Sustainability

• Shift to Physical Communities: Donne (likely referring to Danny) suggests that sneaker culture is returning to physical spaces, emphasizing in-person community building rather than solely online interactions (37:11).

• Sustainable Practices: The hosts briefly touch upon sustainability, with brands needing to balance growth with ethical practices amidst economic and cultural challenges.

Concluding Remarks

The episode wraps up with reflections on the discussed topics, underscoring the interconnectedness of international trade policies, corporate acquisitions, cultural sensitivity, and evolving consumer preferences in shaping the current landscape of the fashion and luxury industries. The dynamic nature of these elements presents both challenges and opportunities for brands striving to navigate an increasingly complex market.

Notable Quotes:

• “Nobody can make a plan. Constant change.” — Jill Manoff (06:20)

• “Stronger larger amid all these tariffs.” — Jill Manoff (17:59)

• “We're honoring this culture, and we're getting all of the money from the honoring.” — Danny Parisi (21:13)

• “The sneaker culture is very much alive. It will never die.” — Noah Thomas (35:05)

• “Sponsors are more inclined to activate in physical spaces around sneakers.” — Zofia Zvaglinska (37:11)

Timestamp Reference Key:

• MM:SS — Corresponds to the specific moment within the podcast transcript for easy navigation.

This summary encapsulates the key discussions and insights shared in the episode, providing listeners and non-listeners alike with a comprehensive overview of the topics covered.