The Glossy Podcast: Week in Review – Paris Fashion Week, Adidas's Comeback, and Tariff Chaos
Release Date: March 7, 2025
In the latest episode of The Glossy Podcast, hosts Dani Parisi and Zofia Zyglinska delve into the multifaceted developments shaping the fashion and luxury industries. Covering the bustling Paris Fashion Week, the impressive rebound of Adidas, and the escalating tariff turmoil affecting global supply chains, this episode offers a comprehensive analysis for industry insiders and enthusiasts alike.
1. Paris Fashion Week: A Global Melting Pot
a. Expanding International Presence
Dani Parisi opens the discussion by highlighting the increasingly international flair of Paris Fashion Week. Traditionally dominated by French and European designers, the event has seen a surge in participation from British, American, Dutch, and other international talents. Parisi notes, “There’s just like a very strong international presence” (00:40).
b. Standout Shows and Trends
The hosts discuss several notable collections that have captivated audiences:
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Dior’s Orlando-Inspired Collection: Parisi praises Dior’s latest show, inspired by Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, emphasizing its gender-fluid themes and historical influences. She remarks, “The collection had lots of like 19th century frilly shirts and frock coats and stuff. I thought that was very fun” (02:00).
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Dior1’s Wearability and Production: Zyglinska comments on Dior1’s shift toward more wearable pieces, though she critiques the crowded runway format with elements like pterodactyl projections, stating, “everything was quite wearable and a little bit of like a move away from the Dior collections of the past” (03:15).
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Stella McCartney’s Office Culture Theme: Highlighting McCartney’s focus on office wear with a feminist angle, Zyglinska observes, “she focused on this office culture, probably slightly inspired by severance” (04:27).
c. Shifting Political and Sustainability Focus
A significant portion of the conversation centers on the noticeable shift away from overt political statements and sustainability highlights compared to previous years. Parisi references a New York Times article criticizing vague political gestures at Chanel shows, noting a broader industry trend towards diminishing "woke" gestures (06:10). Zyglinska adds, “a lot of the shows have gone one of two ways... more baroque” (08:39), indicating a move towards either more wearable workwear or ornately styled collections reminiscent of medieval and Germanic influences.
d. Impact of Geopolitical Tensions
The discussion touches on the absence of statements related to the war in Ukraine and the strained US-European relations. Parisi expresses concern over the lack of support gestures for Ukraine within the fashion shows, while Zyglinska acknowledges efforts to support Ukrainian designers through showroom openings but notes the overall lack of broader political statements (09:51).
2. Adidas’s Financial Resurgence
a. Impressive Earnings Performance
Transitioning to Adidas, Parisi outlines the company's stellar financial results for 2024, surpassing their guidance with a 12% revenue increase and reporting a fourth-quarter profit of €57 million compared to a €377 million loss the previous year (12:55). Zyglinska attributes this success to Adidas’s strategic shift into the lifestyle market, differentiating itself from Nike’s performance-oriented branding.
b. Market Positioning and Competition
Zyglinska elaborates on Adidas’s growth within the lifestyle and wellness segments, mentioning popular sneaker models like the Samba and Gazelle, which have penetrated higher fashion circles. Parisi agrees, noting collaborations with brands like Grace Wales Bonner that elevate Adidas’s presence in the fashion hierarchy (14:27).
c. Comparison with Nike and Emerging Brands
The hosts discuss Nike’s recent decline in sales, which presents an opportunity for Adidas and emerging brands like On and Hoka. Zyglinska emphasizes that Adidas’s broader appeal to regular consumers and lifestyle enthusiasts has been pivotal in its robust performance (12:55).
3. Yeezy’s Full Divestment and Brand Partnership Lessons
a. Complete Separation from Kanye West
Parisi and Zyglinska reflect on Adidas’s decision to fully divest from Yeezy, highlighting the long-term benefits despite the immediate financial loss. Parisi mentions, “they were hoping it would blow over,” acknowledging that distancing from Yeezy has helped Adidas recover from the negative publicity surrounding Kanye West’s erratic behavior (15:52).
b. Implications for Future Partnerships
Zyglinska raises concerns about the risks associated with celebrity partnerships, drawing parallels with Nike’s collaboration with Skims. She questions whether brands will become more cautious in selecting partners to avoid similar liabilities, stating, “now brands are going to have to be even more careful with who we're partnering with” (16:48).
c. Organizational Autonomy and Control
The conversation delves into how autonomy in brand divisions can lead to unforeseen issues. Parisi cites Yeezy’s problematic work environment as a cautionary tale, contrasting it with Skims’s more typical business operations, where Kim Kardashian focuses on product development rather than daily management (18:29).
4. Tariff Chaos: Navigating a Trade War
a. Escalation into a Trade War
The final segment addresses the escalating tariffs that have plunged the fashion industry into chaos. Parisi describes the situation as “massively disruptive” with rising prices and tangled supply chains, highlighting the unpredictability of the Trump administration’s tariff policies (20:38).
b. Impact on Supply Chains and Production Costs
Zyglinska explains that the tariffs resemble a trade war, complicating logistics through disruptions like the Panama Canal situation. She warns that brands struggling to adapt their supply chains are particularly vulnerable, with added costs pushing many businesses into financial distress (22:23).
c. US-Canada Trade Tensions
Parisi discusses the unexpected trade tensions between the US and Canada, emphasizing the detrimental effects on bilateral relations and the fashion market. She cites Canadian Prime Minister Justin Trudeau’s condemnation of the US’s actions and the immediate repercussions, such as American liquor brands being pulled from Canadian shelves (25:07). This situation underscores the fragility of international business relationships amidst political disputes.
d. Future Outlook and Brand Strategies
Both hosts anticipate continued turmoil as tariffs remain unpredictable. Parisi speculates that tariff policies may be used by the administration to enforce compliance from American companies, while Zyglinska forecasts a challenging environment for brands navigating these uncertainties (26:38).
Conclusion
Dani Parisi and Zofia Zyglinska wrap up the episode by reaffirming their commitment to covering the evolving tariff landscape and its repercussions on the fashion industry. They emphasize the importance of staying informed and adapting to the rapidly changing economic environment to sustain growth and mitigate risks.
Notable Quotes:
- Dani Parisi: “I think that's becoming a little bit more hazardous” (25:40).
- Zofia Zyglinska: “a lot of the brands I've spoken to have talked about wait and see policy” (22:23).
Timestamps Overview:
- [00:05-00:40] Introduction and Episode Overview
- [00:40-09:51] Paris Fashion Week Highlights
- [12:55-14:27] Adidas’s Financial Resurgence
- [15:52-19:30] Yeezy’s Divestment and Brand Partnerships
- [20:38-27:13] Tariff Chaos and Trade War Implications
For those eager to delve deeper into the intricate dynamics of the fashion and luxury sectors, this episode of The Glossy Podcast offers invaluable insights and expert analysis.
