Podcast Summary
Podcast: The Grand Tourist with Dan Rubinstein
Episode: Hélène Poulit-Duquesne: Meet Boucheron’s Maverick CEO
Date: January 21, 2026
Host: Dan Rubinstein
Guest: Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, CEO of Boucheron
Episode Overview
In this episode, Dan Rubinstein sits down with Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, the transformative CEO of luxury jewelry maison Boucheron. The conversation traces Hélène's background, her entry into the luxury world, and the strategic and creative evolution she's overseen at Boucheron. They delve into pioneering design philosophies, genderless creativity, the challenges and opportunities of global expansion, and what makes Boucheron unique in the world of high jewelry.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
Hélène’s Background and Early Inspirations
- Growing Up in Paris (03:10)
- Born in Rouen, moved to Paris as a baby; upbringing in a well-educated, loving family.
- "Typical French kind of aristocracy, but on the...diploma line." — Hélène (03:10)
- Early Fascination with Stones and Gemology (03:58)
- Childhood spent collecting stones on mountain walks — especially quartz.
- “I was obsessed by stones...I was fascinated by gemology already when I was young.” — Hélène (03:58)
- Longstanding Passion for Horse Riding (04:56)
- Parents initially opposed due to safety; Hélène started horseback riding independently at age 20 and is now a dedicated equestrian.
Starting Out in the Luxury Industry
- First Job at LVMH: 'Chief of Staff' at Age 22 (06:00)
- Entry into the heart of the luxury industry without direct pressure, giving her a unique, strategic overview of brand operations.
- “I had the chance to be a kind of little mouse in the world of big stars.” — Hélène (06:00)
- The State of Luxury in the 90s (07:18)
- Industry was product-centric, focused on exclusivity and new markets (especially China), with boutiques as gateways to the products rather than immersive experiences.
- “It was very product centric, a lot less in terms of storytelling, a lot less in terms of service and experience.” — Hélène (07:18)
- Learning Strategic Vision Early (08:42)
- Broad exposure gave her a macroeconomic and strategic approach that shaped her subsequent leadership.
Reflections on Industry Shifts
- Digital Evolution and the 'China Boom' (10:48)
- Luxury’s adaptation to e-commerce was contentious; China’s role as a luxury market has radically shaped strategies.
- “It was super exciting...a kind of far west invasion.” — Hélène (11:33)
- COVID’s impact shifted business models nearly overnight to focus on local consumption.
- Adapting to Crisis and Change (13:48)
- “The big, big trends are very long term...then sometimes you have a big crisis like Covid that shifts in weeks.”
Boucheron’s DNA: Pioneering and Inclusive
- History and Innovation at the Maison (14:19)
- Frederic Boucheron was a forward-thinking outsider who prioritized innovation and was the first to move to Place Vendôme.
- “His reputation was incredible...he was very famous for his innovation spirit.” — Hélène (14:19)
- High Jewelry for Women’s Freedom: The 'Question Mark' Necklace (16:28)
- Innovation designed for women’s independence—jewelry that could be donned without assistance.
- “It was giving freedom to women...he decided to free the woman.” — Hélène (16:28)
Leading Change at Boucheron
- State of the Maison on Arrival (2015) (18:01)
- Boucheron’s image was intact but operations outdated and lacking investment.
- Hélène created a five-year transformation plan and negotiated investments; team pride and ambition were restored.
- “It was really a matter of having that vision, sticking to that vision and embarking the full team in this kind of adventure.” — Hélène (18:01)
- Transformation Success (20:21)
- Brand “takeoff” took a year longer than planned due to key anniversaries—ultimately, plan execution was on track.
Creative Direction: Carte Blanche and Two-Collection System
- Launching Two Annual Collections: Tradition & Innovation (21:17–24:45)
- Split between traditional, investment-focused January collection and innovative, image-led July “Carte Blanche” collection.
- “You want something more commercial, we go for January. We want something for the positioning, it’s going to be July.” — Hélène (23:45)
- Notable: Both collections ultimately succeeded both commercially and in media coverage.
Breakthrough Creativity and Gender Dynamics
- Carte Blanche: The 'Contemplation' Collection (24:52)
- Created during COVID as “poetry and escape”; utilized aerogel, a NASA material, for a piece embodying 'a piece of sky.'
- Inventive Approach: Jack de Boucheron (27:03)
- Originated from a creative challenge—no rings allowed—and resulted in a cable-inspired, multi-functional jewelry line.
- Inclusive and Genderless Design Philosophy (38:45)
- Boucheron pioneered high jewelry for men on aesthetic, not trend-based, grounds — launching a broader industry shift.
- “We are genderless, we’re above gender at Boucheron.” — Hélène (41:55)
Creative Process Insights
- From Idea to Boutique (29:50–33:36)
- Monthly creation committees; creative director Claire designs directly on the body or in three dimensions.
- Development time: a year for line extensions, two-to-three years for real innovations. Work on as many as six collections in parallel.
- Storytelling and Client Relationship (34:44)
- Boucheron's aim: propose, not impose; jewelry as self-expression, not a status marker.
- “Come to Boucheron, enter our world, enter our family...We want to help you to express who you are.” — Hélène (34:44)
Global Expansion and Business Strategy
- Delayed but Strategic Expansion to the U.S. (42:42)
- Focused on Asia, now building awareness and presence in the U.S. among both collectors and new clients.
- “When I joined Boucheron, I had to do some tough choices...We stick to the plan going in China. Now...we’re coming only now in the U.S.” — Hélène (43:11)
- Client Stories: American Collectors (45:25)
- Some clients still travel to Paris; others are excited about U.S. boutiques, exemplifying the brand’s transatlantic ties.
Watches and Future Projects
- Watchmaking: Strategic Patience (46:51)
- Boucheron prioritized jewelry before watches to avoid diluting investment.
- “We are one of the few brands in the jewelry world totally legitimate on watches...in our next plan, we’re going to push on watchmaking.” — Hélène (47:23)
- Upcoming Launches and Optimism (48:31)
- New flagship in Shanghai’s historical French Quarter; recent Rodeo Drive opening in LA; high jewelry collection in January.
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
On genderless design:
“We are designing, we are creating for clients for unique people. And so I don't want to go back to creation for gender. We are genderless, we're above gender at Boucher.” — Hélène (41:55) -
On self-expression in jewelry:
“We want to help you to express who you are...It’s like when you choose in the morning the pair of shoes, the dress you’re going to wear. It gives you a different energy depending on what you’re selecting. It’s the same for jewelry.” — Hélène (34:44) -
On Boucheron's essence:
“I would say innovative, inclusive and optimistic.” — Hélène (49:27) -
On innovation in client experience:
“Now it’s all about the relationship with the brand...The boutique is a place where you’re going to interact with the brand and it’s more about having an experience.” — Hélène (07:18)
Important Timestamps
- Early life and inspirations: 03:10–04:56
- First job at LVMH and strategic vision: 06:00–09:51
- Key industry changes—digital & China: 10:48–13:48
- Boucheron’s founding spirit: 14:19–16:19
- Arrival and transformation at Boucheron: 18:01–20:21
- Creative process/two-collection strategy: 21:17–24:45
- Carte Blanche collections & innovation: 24:52–27:03
- Genderless jewelry philosophy: 38:45–41:55
- Global expansion—USA focus: 42:42–45:25
- Future plans and Boucheron's three words: 48:31–49:40
Final Thoughts
This episode provides a deep look into the visionary mindset of Hélène Poulit-Duquesne and the ethos of Boucheron as a maison that honors tradition while embracing innovation and inclusivity. The conversation brims with insights on the luxury industry’s transformations, the power of creative leadership, and how a storied brand can remain relevant—and even groundbreaking—in the 21st century.