The Greatest True Crime Stories Ever Told

Episode: "Coco Chanel and the Aryan Laws (Pt 2)"

Release Date: May 13, 2025
Host: Mary Kay McBrayer

Introduction

In the second part of the gripping series on Coco Chanel's enigmatic life, host Mary Kay McBrayer delves deeper into the controversial intersections between the renowned fashion designer and Nazi collaboration during World War II. This episode not only illuminates the dark chapters of Chanel's past but also challenges listeners to ponder the ethical complexities surrounding consumer choices in the modern era.

Aftermath of World War II in France

Mary Kay sets the stage by describing the tumultuous period following the D-Day landings in June 1944. As Allied forces liberated France, a violent purge ensued, targeting those suspected of collaboration with the Nazis.

• Vigilante Justice:
  "Records show that about 6,000 people were killed during the vigilante justice at the Wild Purge," McBrayer states (03:45).

• Focus on Women Collaborators:
  The majority of these victims were women labeled as "horizontal collaborators"—accused of maintaining sexual relationships with enemy soldiers, whether consensually, through coercion, or under dire economic pressures.

Coco Chanel's Collaboration with Nazis

Transitioning to Chanel's personal narrative, McBrayer uncovers the layers of Chanel's involvement with Nazi officials.

• Strategic Alliances:
  "Coco wrote the Nazis to say she was an Aryan and as a part owner, she should be able to recover the company herself," McBrayer explains (09:20). This maneuver was part of Chanel's attempt to manipulate Aryanization laws to her advantage.

• Personal Entanglements:
  Chanel maintained a prolonged romantic affair with Hans Gunther von Dinkelage, a Nazi spy, spanning over a decade. This relationship not only solidified her ties with the Nazi intelligence community but also provided her with influential connections.

• Espionage Activities:
  She undertook missions for the Nazis, including efforts to free her nephew from a German POW camp and negotiating with Winston Churchill through Nazi intelligence channels—a double-edged sword that intertwined her personal and business interests with the regime.

Business Negotiations and Impact on Chanel

The episode meticulously outlines the complex business dealings between Chanel and her Jewish business partners, the Wertimer brothers.

• Aryanization of Chanel:
  Under Nazi-imposed Aryan laws, Jewish-owned businesses were confiscated. Chanel sought to bypass these laws by asserting her Aryan status to reclaim her stake in the Chanel company.

• The Wertimer Betrayal:
  Despite negotiations, the Wertimers, anticipating Chanel's betrayal, had secretly transferred their shares to Felix Amiot, a French engineer involved in manufacturing for the Luftwaffe. This clever move safeguarded the company from Nazi seizure and preserved the Wertimers' legacy (12:15).

• Legal Settlements Post-War:
  After the war, Pierre Wertimer negotiated a settlement with Chanel, resulting in her receiving a substantial cash payout and a percentage of sales, thereby severing her direct ties to the company's ownership.

Post-War Consequences and Chanel's Legacy

Chanel's attempt to revive her fashion empire in 1954 met with public failure, leading to further financial entanglements with the Wertimers. Despite her controversial past, Chanel's brand endured, evolving under the stewardship of the Wertimer family and eventually flourishing into a billion-dollar empire.

• Failed Comeback:
  "Her show had flopped," McBrayer notes, highlighting the challenges Chanel faced in re-establishing her brand post-war (20:05).

• Family Succession:
  The Wertimer family's strategic decisions, including the appointment of influential executives and the hiring of Karl Lagerfeld, ensured the continuation and expansion of the Chanel brand, effectively overshadowing Chanel's personal controversies.

Ethical Reflections

McBrayer poses a poignant question to listeners: Is it ethical to continue supporting a brand with such a tainted history? She draws parallels to other public figures whose legacies are marred by personal misconduct, suggesting a nuanced approach to consumer choices.

• Consumer Dilemma:
  "The ethics of our consumer purchases is something to consider," McBrayer reflects, acknowledging the discomfort consumers may feel when beloved products are linked to immoral actions (28:45).

Conclusion

The episode concludes by tracing Chanel's ultimate downfall and the lasting impact of her actions during the war. Despite her personal failures and moral compromises, the Chanel brand remains a powerhouse in the fashion world, raising enduring questions about legacy, accountability, and the complexities of separating art from the artist.

• Legacy vs. Infamy:
  "The tweed skirt suit is still ubiquitous because it's professional and practical," McBrayer observes, illustrating how Chanel's creations continue to define fashion trends despite the shadow of her past (32:10).

• Final Reflection:
  "If you're wondering about the morality of purchasing Chanel products... you can rest easy," she concludes, suggesting that informed consumer decisions can reconcile admiration for the brand with awareness of its historical context (33:25).

Notable Quotes

• On Being the Son of a Killer:
  "Every time I hear about my dad is, oh, he's a killer. He's just straight evil." - Gilbert King (16:55)

• On Ethical Consumerism:
  "The ethics of our consumer purchases is something to consider." - Mary Kay McBrayer (28:45)

• On Legacy:
  "The tweed skirt suit is still ubiquitous because it's professional and practical." - Mary Kay McBrayer (32:10)

Sources and Credits

Mary Kay McBrayer credits documentaries "The Wars of Coco Chanel" and "Becoming Chanel," Hal Vaughn's book "Sleeping with the Enemy," and various articles from reputable outlets such as The New York Times, PBS, BBC, The New Yorker, Forbes, and Business Insider for her comprehensive research.

Produced by: Emma DeMuth
Edited by: Antonio Enriquez
Theme Music: Tyler Cash
Executive Producer: Scott Waxman

Disclaimer: This summary is based on the transcript provided and is intended to offer a comprehensive overview of the podcast episode. For a deeper understanding and full context, listening to the original episode is recommended.