Summary of "Your Tinned Fish Obsession is Helping Resurrect a Lost Industry" - The Indicator from Planet Money

Release Date: July 21, 2025
Hosted by: Waylon Wong
Produced by: NPR

Introduction: The Sardine Renaissance

Waylon Wong opens the episode with a discussion on the surprising resurgence of sardines in popular culture and consumer products. From dishware at Target to viral handbags, tinned fish prints have become ubiquitous. Wong muses, “I have a Trader Joe's tote bag that literally, the print on it is a recipe for sardine toast” (01:10).

Producer and reporter Adjoa Jima Brempong attributes this trend to multiple factors: the affordability of sardines as a protein source in an era focused on macronutrients and economic downturns, appealing packaging designs, and a shift in American perceptions. She notes, “after years of being told that they were stinky and gross, Americans are finally vibing again” (00:41).

The Global Canned Fish Market on the Rise

The canned fish industry has seen significant growth, surpassing $30 billion globally last year. While Europe has long been associated with high-quality tinned fish, particularly sardines, there is a budding interest in revitalizing the American canned fish market. Brempong highlights, “bringing back a bit of the US Manufacturing... there are some producers who are betting sardines are here to stay” (01:44).

Historical Context: The Decline of American Sardine Canneries

Historically, the United States was a powerhouse in sardine production. Cities like Monterey, California, were renowned as the sardine capital of the world, with production exceeding 10 million cans annually in the 1940s. However, the rise of tuna brands like Starkist in the 1960s led to a decline in sardine demand. Brempong explains, “Starkist... [took] down sardines, basically” (04:44).

By 2010, the last American sardine cannery, Stinson Seafood in Prospect Harbor, Maine, had closed its doors, marking the end of an era for domestic sardine production.

Revival Efforts: New England Takes the Helm

The episode spotlights the efforts to revive the sardine canning industry in New England. Christopher Sherman, president of Island Creek Oysters, shares insights into the strategic benefits of local canning. He states, “canning fish helps address a seasonal mismatch between supply and demand” (05:39).

Island Creek Oysters has established a cannery in New Bedford, Massachusetts, utilizing European-style canning equipment to produce traditional sardine can formats. Sherman elaborates on the challenges, noting the need to adapt European machinery to U.S. standards: “But it's a challenge they're happy to take on” (08:18).

Seasonal Dynamics: Aligning Supply with Demand

A significant advantage of canning is its ability to preserve peak-season fish for year-round availability. Sherman explains, “In the US in particular, everyone wants to eat seafood in the summertime... [but] production happens in the fall here in New England” (05:52). This alignment helps maintain consistent quality and availability irrespective of seasonal fluctuations.

Overcoming Barriers: Infrastructure and Equipment

Re-establishing the American canning industry faces substantial hurdles, primarily due to outdated infrastructure. Most U.S. canneries have specialized in basic can types like tuna or soup cans, making it difficult to produce the classic sardine can shapes popular in Europe. As Sherman puts it, “We're trying to do the thing, which is to manufacture this product here in the United States, and very few other people are doing it” (07:20).

Great Lakes Tinned Fish: A Fresh Start in Michigan

Marissa Fellows, founder of Great Lakes Tinned Fish in Grand Rapids, Michigan, represents another front in the sardine revival. Inspired by a visit to a Boston bar, she questioned why the Great Lakes region lacked a variety of tinned fish similar to European offerings. “I like to say the idea stuck. The date didn't” (03:58), Fellows recounts.

Launching her company in 2024, Fellows faces the challenge of shifting regional tastes. “I think there's still... a really big education gap when it comes to tinned fish,” she admits (08:39). To counter skepticism, her strategy is straightforward: “Just try it. You're going to love it” (08:54). She emphasizes the quality and flavor of her products, asserting that they require no additional ingredients to be enjoyable.

Changing Consumer Perceptions and Expanding Markets

The combined efforts of Island Creek Oysters and Great Lakes Tinned Fish are part of a broader movement to make tinned fish a staple in American diets once again. By focusing on quality, authentic flavors, and appealing packaging, these companies aim to redefine the image of sardines from being perceived as "cat food" to a gourmet option.

Brempong concludes that the growth of American tinned fish brands signifies a sustainable shift rather than a fleeting trend. “Along with Island Creek and a growing number of other American brands, she's trying to make sure Sardine Girl Summer doesn't end up as just a flash in the can” (09:09).

Conclusion: A Promising Future for American Canning

The episode wraps up by highlighting the collaborative efforts and optimism among entrepreneurs and producers dedicated to reviving the tinned fish industry in the United States. With a combination of traditional canning techniques, modern marketing, and a focus on quality, the American canning renaissance appears poised for success.

This summary captures the key discussions, insights, and conclusions from the episode, incorporating notable quotes and timestamps for reference.