
Episode 44, Kate McDermott. John and Megan set the table with their friend Shannon Larson and their guests, Kate McDermott, to discuss Joy of Cooking recipes and stories, kitchen victories and miseries, and, most importantly, what they're all cooking and eating. Join us at the table for a casual culinary chat about meringue.
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Megan Scott
Sa.
Shannon Larson
Welcome to the Joy of Cooking podcast. Each week we set the table for a discussion about recipes and stories from the authors of the Joy of Cooking, kitchen victories and misadventures, and what we're cooking and eating right now. We're glad you've joined us at the table today. I'm Shannon Larson, home cook, Joy of Cooking user and fan, and cold baked sweet potatoes for breakfast enthusiast.
Megan Scott
I. I'm Megan Scott, co Author of the 2019 edition of the Joy of Cooking. I'm a food editor by day and avoider of dish duty by night. And it's officially hot toddy season. Praise be.
John Becker
I'm John Becker, 4th Generation Co author and steward of the Joy of Cooking, America's oldest family run cookbook. And I dislike cleaning wild mushrooms that were forged in heavy rain because they're soggy and it is very difficult.
Megan Scott
That's very topical.
John Becker
Uh, yeah, well, I was doing it earlier today.
Shannon Larson
So wait, do we all have the same thing written down to talk about?
Megan Scott
Mushroom. I mean. Yeah, that was like the most exciting thing I've done all week. Yeah. So we went on a mushroom foraging expedition. It was very wet. Very, very wet.
Shannon Larson
It felt like I went swimming in my hiking boots.
Megan Scott
Yeah, my boots were. I could hear the squishy squidgy sound. Yeah, it was. It was a lot.
John Becker
Didn't you take them off and there was actually standing water in the boots?
Megan Scott
Yeah, it turns out I. So I ordered. I've actually ordered a pair of proper waterproof shoes. Oh, it's. It's only taken me. What? How many years have we lived in the Pacific Northwest now?
John Becker
Yeah, I remember there was another mushroom foraging expedition that we were on, and I think our producer Sarah was wearing muck boots.
Megan Scott
And.
John Becker
And I looked at them. I was like, oh, that's such a great idea.
Megan Scott
And then proceeded to not for six.
John Becker
Years, just have not followed through on that.
Sarah
Those boots are bog boots and they.
Megan Scott
Are waterproof, and I learned about them from my farmer friends. Next time I have them on order, they're coming. Oh, good. But we were successful. Shannon, what mushrooms did you find?
Shannon Larson
We found chanterelles and lobsters, and we used the chanterelles immediately on Sunday night for risotto, and it was the best risotto I've ever made.
Megan Scott
Mushroom is my favorite risotto.
Shannon Larson
It's so good.
Megan Scott
Yeah.
Shannon Larson
You guys found the purple chanterelles, violet chanterells.
John Becker
Yeah, violet chanterelles, white chanterelles, and then like three tiny normal golden chanterelles.
Megan Scott
And a bunch of lobsters.
John Becker
Yeah, a bunch of Lobsters. I was really excited about those, and I, you know, because there appeared to be a lot of them, and they seemed good enough, but then we got home and I don't know, some of them just kind of fell apart when I started. I started cleaning them. So, you know, we. We were more discerning when we got home.
Megan Scott
Yeah, it was just a soggy time, but, you know, that's part of it.
Shannon Larson
Yeah. The lobsters are fun to find because they're just so bright red.
Megan Scott
They're so pretty.
Shannon Larson
Yeah. When you find them, you're just like, oh, they're like treasures. Oh, they're all like treasures.
Megan Scott
But I want to make a lobster mushroom roll, so. Like lobster roll, but with the mushrooms.
Shannon Larson
Oh, that's a good idea.
John Becker
Connecticut. Am I getting this right? Connecticut style or Maine style?
Megan Scott
I. I can't remember the difference.
John Becker
One has butter, the other has mayonnaise. I know that.
Megan Scott
I like the butter.
John Becker
One butter, I think. I feel like the butter would be best.
Kate McDermott
Yeah, yeah.
Shannon Larson
With the mushrooms.
John Becker
Yeah.
Megan Scott
Yeah. But tonight we're going to cook some of the white chanterelles. John, you were going to roast.
John Becker
Yeah. You know, they were a little waterlogged. I mean, when we were out, it was really wet. And so, of course, the mushrooms, you know, know, absorbed a lot of that and was thinking about kind of par. Roasting them. Either that or, you know, you published a recipe that was like, for dry sauteed mushrooms. I was thinking that might be interesting to try.
Megan Scott
Yeah. Just to cook off some of that water.
John Becker
Right.
Megan Scott
Concentrate them.
John Becker
Yeah. It's a dry skillet. This would be with regular button mushrooms that you were using. So I'm not sure how it would work with the, you know, weird, oddly shaped chanterelles, but, yeah, just weight it down in the skillet. And then when it gets kind of nice and brown.
Megan Scott
Yeah, a little brown.
John Becker
A little brown. You turn them over, maybe do it again. And then after that you add some butter.
Shannon Larson
Yeah, that's what we tend to do with our mushrooms every year.
Megan Scott
So that was very fun. And we're prepping. We're kind of prepping for my s. So my sister's getting married next week, and her rehearsal dinner is on Halloween, so she's having a costume party, which is super fun. But I'm dressing up as a mushroom. One of the, you know, red with the white spots, the amanita muscaria. And then John is going to be a mushroom hunter. So I feel like we were practicing for our Halloween costume.
John Becker
There are no implications to that at all. I'M certainly not going to harvest you.
Megan Scott
And you won't get wet.
Shannon Larson
Hopefully it'll be nice and dry.
Megan Scott
Yeah, it'll be nice and dry. It'll be indoors. And before we move on, I wanted to talk about the Joy Scouts recipe of the week, which was roast chicken on page 407. Roast chicken is great with mushrooms. I feel like that's how I'm gonna bridge this. What's your favorite part of the roast chicken? Like, when you roast a chicken, what part do you want right away?
Shannon Larson
The oysters. Like, immediately, as soon as we bring it out of the oven. Well, when we can touch the chicken, then that's the first thing John always does, is he grabs the oysters and we each eat it and then we. Then he, like, takes it apart. So what about you?
John Becker
Wait, you. You grab him before you take. That's a trick.
Shannon Larson
Yeah, he, like, digs his fingers and just, like takes them from the carcass.
Megan Scott
Whoa. Yeah, that's a dedication.
Shannon Larson
We really like them. Well, it's also just like a treat because it takes a while to roast the chicken and you're like, smelling it and you're looking forward to it. Yeah. And at that point I'm just starving. So.
John Becker
Yeah, you go for the low hanging fruit.
Megan Scott
Oh, yeah. I'm a. I'm a wingtip person. And the. And the tail, I like the tail and the wing tip. Those come off right away and I'm snacking on those. And I like them when they get crispy. So we don't. We don't trust. We don't trust the wing tip. So they're tucked in because I want them to get dark brown and really like crispy. So that's my kitchen snack.
Shannon Larson
You just chew on them?
Megan Scott
Yeah, just exactly.
John Becker
It's more of a crunchy, you know, not too much chewing involves just like breaking off little bits of cartilage. Crispy cartilage. Salty cartilage. Yum.
Megan Scott
So we usually also eat the dark meat first on day one because I think that the white meat tastes better when it's left over.
Shannon Larson
Well, we do the same thing. We eat the dark meat right after it's roasted, like for dinner, and then we save the breast for other meals throughout the week, like chicken salad or whatever it might be, because the dark meat tastes really good right out of the oven.
Megan Scott
Yeah, agreed.
John Becker
Actually, I just used some leftover roast chicken. Peter Kim got me thinking about ramen experiments, and so I made a khao soi ramen for lunch today with some leftover chicken. Some. A Little red curry paste, a little curry powder topped with chopped pickled mustard greens. And oh yeah, I reserved some of the ramen noodles and toasted them in a skillet, like all crushed up.
Megan Scott
So that's a good idea. Yeah, that is good.
John Becker
It was good. I have to say, patting myself on the back.
Megan Scott
See all the things you can do with a roast chicken if you, if you just make one, it's really easy to make. There's lots of tricks out there for, you know, like hacks for making the best roast chicken ever. But roasting a chicken is really, really, it can be so simple. All you have to do is salt it, put it in the oven at like 400 degrees even. You don't even have to do that high. And just until. Cook it till it's done. Yeah, that's it.
John Becker
Or you can make a hobby of it. Either way, that's true.
Shannon Larson
In the winter, I think we roast a chicken like once a week or every week or two just because it's a nice staple to have too.
Megan Scott
Yeah.
Shannon Larson
So easy.
Megan Scott
So if you make the roast chicken Recipe on page 407, please tag us at the Joy of Cooking on Instagram. We would love to see what you.
John Becker
Make and if you do anything spectacular with the leftovers, definitely want to see that.
Megan Scott
This week we would like to welcome Kate McDermott to the table. Kate is the creator and founder of Art of the Pie and a James Beard finalist for her writing and recipes. Since 2008, she has taught the time honored craft of pie making to over 7,000 people in her highly popular in person pie camps and virtual classes. One of the most highly sought after culinary instructors nationally, Kate is widely acknowledged as one of the best makers of pie ever and has been called food rock star and pie whisperer. Kate, welcome to the table.
Kate McDermott
Well, thank you for having me here. I'm delighted to, to be here. I have to tell you, I was really enjoying that conversation too.
Megan Scott
I know. I feel like we should allow our guests to chime in, but I'm going to ask you now, what have you made this week that you're excited about or eaten this week that you're excited about?
Kate McDermott
Oh, well, I made a great pot of brown rice and it was just so comforting. And you know, you do that and then you can make a lot of things with it. I'm one of those who likes to make, have things ready so that I can throw things together. This actually, along with the brown rice, I had some chicken thighs in the fridge and I had some leftover green enchilada sauce. I had some tomato sauce, I had some artichoke hearts and I had some shallots that were from something else that I had made. And I said here's the slow cooker. I just threw everything in and I had to be gone for the day. I had no idea what I was going to come home to. And it was excellent.
Megan Scott
I love it when that happens when you're, you're not sure what's going to happen and it's, it's a good thing.
John Becker
Slow cooker roulette.
Kate McDermott
Exactly.
Megan Scott
Also brown rice. Brown rice with butter and soy sauce is, it's a delicacy. It's so good.
John Becker
Have you tried the in between brown and white rice, the haiga rice where it's like semi polished I guess is the technique.
Kate McDermott
No, I don't know about that rice. I'm going to write this down and look forward that. Is that H A I H A.
John Becker
I G A. Yeah. Brown rice is excellent. It doesn't cook quite as fast as white rice. This is a nice in between alternative just because it cooks in the same time as white rice basically. But it does have some of the.
Megan Scott
Germ on there and it has a nutty.
Kate McDermott
It shakes hands with both sides.
John Becker
Yeah, yeah.
Megan Scott
Very friendly rice.
Kate McDermott
Can we go back to mushrooms for a second?
Megan Scott
Absolutely.
Kate McDermott
Okay. So I was thinking about this I made and also the wedding. Okay. These two, these two things and costumes. All of these things. Okay. So when my son got married, my son and daughter in law, they had a four day snow bash east of Seattle in Clay Ellum, this little area. And I catered for four days for we were all under one roof. They found this great place that could house 60 of us. It had two kitchens, three ovens, two refrigerators, an ice maker. It was, it was fabulous. And I along with making, I made chicken pies for everybody. And I did it with leeks and mushrooms and potatoes and some herbe de Provence. It was so good. But the thing that was wonderful was seeing the costume party. We had costume parties. So I would either get up in the morning and be greeted by, you know, unicorns or whatever, dogs, you know, dog costumes, just all sorts of things. And I never knew who was going to be at the table or who was in the costume. It was so much fun.
John Becker
That sounds like quite the undertaking. What were you responsible for when you said you were catering? Like just everything. Everything. Wow.
Kate McDermott
Breakfast, lunch and dinner for 60 people.
John Becker
That is education.
Kate McDermott
Three days for them, four days for those of us who are putting it on.
Megan Scott
Wow. Yeah, that's so much work.
Kate McDermott
Oh, I did a lot of prep. I have a freezer. I was very well prepared.
Shannon Larson
Were you in costume at all?
Kate McDermott
I came as the. I came in my ceremonial dress that I have gone to, that I wear for all major occasions that I made. So that was. Some would say it was my. My 1960s.
Megan Scott
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Kate McDermott
I would say it's a long one. I recall my mom, she had her copy, her wartime copy of the Joy of Cooking, and.
Megan Scott
Oh, you have it.
Kate McDermott
I do.
Megan Scott
Beautiful. And for listeners who cannot see, it's a blue. What is that pattern that.
John Becker
I've called it gingham, but I think that's wrong.
Megan Scott
Yeah, it's not.
Kate McDermott
I don't think it's gingham. It's like a diamond pattern on the front, you know?
Dave Dresky
Yeah.
Kate McDermott
Blue. It's. It's a pretty blue. And what I recall in there, the earliest things I really recall making with her is fudge. We made fudge. And it was the fudge in the wartime edition that was chocolate fudge number two, which, if you have that edition, it's on page 736. And I still have the bowl that we made.
Dave Dresky
Oh, wow.
Megan Scott
That's amazing. I love it. Yeah.
Kate McDermott
And I remember that we would make this and go into the room where there was this television, and I think we. I can't remember exactly what we were watching. That sort of fades away. And she'd say, you just have to keep. We just beat it and beat it and beat it and beat it. And we would take turns back and forth. She would have it, I would have it. And she said, you have to keep beating it until the gloss is gone and. And you could hardly get the spoon through anymore. And then she said, oh, it's ready now it was such a treat. And I always remembered that.
Megan Scott
That's amazing. I love that memory so much.
Kate McDermott
And then the next thing that, with my history of that is in 1972, she gave me my own copy of Joy of Cooking. And she gave it to me on my birthday, on my 19th birthday. So this is this one again. It's falling apart. It's always been the go to reference of I want to make this or that. Where do I go? This is where I go. And I would look. And it was one of the books that I really learned to cook.
Megan Scott
Yeah. That's our favorite historical edition is the 1964, the blue cover. That was Marian Ron Bauerbecker's first solo edition and has our favorite illustrations of all of the editions.
Kate McDermott
It does have the. Let's see the rabbit. The rabbit illustration in there.
John Becker
I feel like it says squirrel.
Megan Scott
The hair.
John Becker
The squirrel.
Kate McDermott
Squirrel. The squirrel. Thank you very much. I knew it was something.
Megan Scott
Yeah.
John Becker
Yeah. People are upset that we replaced it with a rabbit. They want the grotesque squirrel.
Megan Scott
But we did. We did meet somebody who has a friend who got the squirrel tattooed on them, and they sent us a photo of the tattoo. And I just admired the commitment to that so much. It's a great. It makes a great tattoo.
John Becker
Yeah. Speaking of, so when Marian went off to Vassar for college for a while, I don't think she actually graduated, but I guess that fudge was, like, all the rage at Vassar.
Megan Scott
When would that have been? The 40s?
Kate McDermott
Was that.
John Becker
Yeah, it must have been 30s or something like that. But yeah, there's like a whole. It was a thing, I, I guess to make. To make.
Megan Scott
They were making fudge at college?
John Becker
Yeah, making fudge at college. It sounds weird. I'm gonna have to do more research. I, I, I did not do any research on that for this, for this recording.
Kate McDermott
Well, you didn't expect that I was going to talk about fudge.
Megan Scott
Be prepared. So you are a pie baker. I would love for you to tell us about your pie camps.
Kate McDermott
Oh, where to begin?
John Becker
How did it begin?
Kate McDermott
I was living in Seattle and making pie. Just, you know, you make pie every once in a while for your family or friends. And I remember I was married at the time, and my husband then said, can you make an apple pie? And I said, well, sure. And I made a pie. And he had some comments about it. And what I wanted was for him to taste a bite of the pie and say, oh, my darling, this is the best pie. You make the best pie. And I didn't quite hear that. So I kept playing around with doughs, ratios, fats, all sorts of things, varieties of apples, refractometers, all sorts of things. Until one day he said, I don't think this could get any, any better. So great in his stature in the food world, he said, one day, well, a few people are going to come over because they want to learn how to make the pie that you're making, the apple pie. And I said, okay. So a very informal class happened in my kitchen and it was two food writers and a chef. And one of the food writers wrote a two part piece on this making pie with me and it won awards. And at the end of the class, these three folks said, we had so much fun. You made it so easy and the pie is great, you should be teaching this. So I went to my computer and found iWeb, a program where I could make a website. And I figured out how to load it up on the Internet, set some dates up and stood back, had no idea what was going to happen. And people started coming and press started writing and magazines started coming and agents and editors started contacting me and it was just beyond my wildest dreams. Probably one of the craziest things was setting up a few classes and having. There was something that used to be called daily candy, I recall. And they said, we're going to feature Art of the Pie. They said, you'll want to add some more classes, make sure you have some. So I said, what, three, four? They said, no, a few more. So I put up an arbitrary number, like 19, I think that was the figure. I don't know why 19. But that's what it ended up being. And then I went off to go to Eastern Washington to do something. And when I got there and got settled, I looked at my email, all these reservations were coming in and every single one of the classes has filled in like five or six hours. It blew my mind. So I kind of thought maybe this is something that I should take a little more seriously. And that began this crazy journey of this business which I feel so fortunate to still. That was in 2009, 2008, when that first class happened in my little kitchen. And this is now what, 20, 25? And people are still coming after the day classes. Then people said, we want more, we want more. What else do you have? So I came up with this crazy idea of I camp, which is a multi day experience. And that has been probably one of the. All of it has been a great joy for me and I'm not done yet.
Megan Scott
There's a real hunger for pieces. That's kind of. I mean, it kind of goes again. I. I guess, you know, it seems like the trend in cooking is always easier, always faster, but pie doesn't really fit that mold. I mean, there's easier pies and there's harder pies to make, but it's not a quick food. It's something that requires you to spend time and care and attention making. Why do you think there's such a hunger for pieces?
Kate McDermott
I think because it is such a basic thing. It's when. When I talk to people about cake versus pie, and they'll say, yeah, cake, it's very celebratory. But you say, hi, and they go, oh, my grandmother or my aunt or my uncle, they used to make this. I remember a time, and I think there is something that is. Pie is a carrier of our memories, and we learn to make a dough, and you're rolling it out, and then you're putting yourself into this filling. And I also think that pie gets a bad rap of it's hard. It's not hard. Anything can be. You're going to succeed at whatever you believe. So if you think that PI is going to be hard, then it will be hard for you. But if you think, I'm learning a skill, I'm learning this, and, yes, I need to do a little practicing on this, and it's getting easier every time, then, yeah, that's how. That's how things work.
Megan Scott
I do think pie, there's, like a mindset shift you have to go undergo if you're going to make pie. Like, you can't. I mean, in my opinion, you can't be in a huge hurry. You have to stop and think about what you're doing. And really, like, you have to, you know, engage your senses, feel the dough. How does it feel? How does it look? And, yeah, it takes practice to make a really. I mean, but even like a pie that isn't perfect is. That's part of the charm. That's a great pie.
Kate McDermott
I agree. And if. I know we have the holidays, you know, the big high pie holidays that come up in the year. Thanksgiving, fourth of July, things like this. If you have a. If you bring a pie and it's not a homemade pie, nobody's gonna say, I'm sorry, you can't come in. That's not a homemade pie. They're gonna say, you brought pie.
Megan Scott
What are. What do you think the most important things to know are? As a beginner pie baker, I have.
Kate McDermott
Three things that I feel that are important to impart to beginners and experienced pie makers. Number one, keep everything chilled, especially yourself. And that is in a few different ways. Yes, the ingredients. Make sure your fats are chilled. Use ice water. But also think about your environment. A warm, hot kitchen is not ideal for working with cold fats. If your hands are warm, hold ice cubes, dip them in an ice water bath, something like that. The biggest thing is this is just I. This is not rocket science. Yes, you can do it. So chill out. You can do it. So there's that. The part about chilling is yourself. Also. Number two is to keep your boundaries. And in that, I mean, do not overfill the pie pan unless you want a clean the oven pie, which is one that we've all made.
Megan Scott
Yes, okay.
Kate McDermott
And that's, you know, enough said on that. And the third is to vent. And pie making is a wonderful way to creatively vent. And you can think of that whether in your life or in the artistry of making pie. If it's in your life, here's an opportunity to vent in a very creative way. And venting is something that I think we don't really don't mean to get into the psychology of pie, but it's just kind of a nice thing to think about these three things to chill, keep your boundaries, and vent. And they're kind of like my rules of both pie and life.
John Becker
I love how all of those have double or even triple meanings. Venting, double crust pies, but also take out whatever you need to on that dough.
Kate McDermott
That's nice. Yeah.
John Becker
Speaking of psychology of PI, in the art of the pie, you write at length how pie making has helped you kind of reflect on life. And I was just kind of curious if you could maybe go into that a little bit and like, have you had any recent PI based insights or revelations even that you would like to share?
Kate McDermott
Oh, every day I have one. I feel that, first of all, there's so much to know about PI. It's not just here I can make. I make pie. Yes, I do. But the more I know and the more I learn about pie, I realize how much more there is. And it excites me beyond belief, you know, to go down a rabbit hole, which I have been in this rabbit hole for decades now. And I don't seem to be close to leaving the rabbit hole. But I feel that I'm always learning something, even if it's, well, I'm not going to do that again. There's, you know, that's, that's a really Good, Good one. I think at every class I learn something. Yes, there's some basic things that everybody asks, but I learned something at every class. I learned something with every pie I make. Yes, I could do it in my sleep, you know, and make doughs. And I, you know, I probably have it sometimes when it's been the middle of the night and I, oh, I have to get this done and I go out into the kitchen, I'm just, okay, here, I've got everything. And I make a pie and I'm not even really thinking about it because I've done it so often, but I'm still learning recently. What I'm doing now is I've having written three books and two on pie. I have been playing around for a couple decades now with gluten free doughs and I'm still learning. I think the doughs, the gluten free doughs in both books are really good. And I'm still refining and I'm still learning and they're still getting better. And that really is exciting to me. So I love just going into the kitchen and knowing that this is a training ground for me. And I'm not an expert. I'm a practitioner of a craft and as a practitioner, I'm always practicing.
Megan Scott
You know, we're big fans of Rombauer Vineyards. They're sponsoring today's episode, actually. But honestly, their wines are fantastic with so many joy of cooking dishes. My current favorite is their Sauvignon Blanc with our Khao Soi Gai recipe. That bright, crisp wine cuts right through the richness of the curry. It's perfect.
John Becker
Oh, absolutely. Being Oregonians, we take our Pinot seriously. We're excited about their new Pinot Noir, which pairs beautifully with our chicken jambalaya. The wine has enough body to stand up to all those bold creole flavors.
Megan Scott
If you want to try these pairings yourself, head to ronbauer.com joy or use code joypod, all caps for 15% off. That's R O-M-B-A-U-E-R.com joy or code joypod, all caps. I'm really curious about the gluten free pie crust. Do you have any advice for folks who are trying to do gluten free crust? I mean, the nice thing about it is you can't overwork it. So that's a plus, a big plus.
Kate McDermott
When I'm teaching gluten free glasses, the first thing I say to folks is, gluten free is not hard, it's just different. So if you remember that to begin with, it kind of takes some of the. Oh my God, it's a gluten free crust and it's going to, you know, be. I'm, I'm not going to be able to do this. You know, you just take that away. And then I tell them that everything you know about gluten full doughs pretty much leave at the door because now we're doing a whole different thing. And when you're, when you're open to that rather than. Well, that's not how I do it with the. No. Well, it's not because it's different. So what I find with gluten free, a few basic things. It takes a lot more liquid or not a lot, but it takes a little more liquid because the gluten free flours and starches really suck up the liquid. And then making sure that that dough is used fairly quickly after you have made it. Because as it is soaking up that stuff, the liquid, and it's in the fridge for the fats to chill back up, it can get hard really fast. So you're watching it. You're not going to put a gluten free dough into the fridge for hours or overnight if you can help it, have it chill back up maybe half an hour, 45 minutes and then get it out. And always just kind of like, does it feel like I could roll it out and then I'm rolling between what I've traditionally been doing, which is so interesting to say that I've been doing gluten free long enough that I can say traditionally I've been doing has been rolling it between two pieces of plastic wrap or two roll pots or sill pots. And that really has worked exceptionally well. But lately I have been playing around with some new techniques of making the dough and getting tremendous results of doughs that I can roll out and I can just, I can make a beautiful lattice. I can flip it on into the pie pan. It's not falling apart on me. So I'm very excited about the new things that I'm playing with and learning.
Megan Scott
Are those things going to be shared anywhere that we can find them?
Kate McDermott
Oh, yes. Oh yes, they will be. Yes. Give me a little bit more time on this. But I'm very, very excited about this.
Megan Scott
Exciting developments in pie. I love it.
John Becker
How do you feel about the, you know, the kind of one for one or cup for cup type gluten free blends?
Kate McDermott
I was just curious when I found out that I had celiac in 2006, which surprises everybody because I'm a pie maker and a pie teacher, I found out that I could no longer eat anything I was baking whether that was bread because I was always a bread maker too. And so at that time, the off the shelf AP gluten free flour mixes were not really a thing. So I was starting from scratch of playing with different flours and starches to see what worked to create things. And then when I think the first one that I tried of an off the shelf was a cup for cup. And at that time, the recipe in there had milk powder in it. And I also at that time was dairy free. So I could not have. I could not have that. And so, you know, yes, I used it. I think there's some. Let's just say I think it was a wonderful start into the development of gluten free AP flours. And there are so many others out there now that it's exciting to see that there are options and they're different.
John Becker
Cool.
Kate McDermott
I don't have any thoughts.
Megan Scott
I kind of want to talk about apple pie for a second because we're in. We're in that season. We're in apple pie season. And my mom actually texted me a question the other day. And funnily enough, she sent in the question that we're going to be answering in a few minutes. But this is a separate one about apple pie. So she made an apple pie. It looked beautiful, but the apples shrank and the crust did not fall. It stayed up. So there's like a crevasse between the apples and the crust. And I was like, honestly, the only way I know to prevent that is by pre cooking the filling so that you have it. It's more compact. But do you have any advice for. Because I know a lot of people want to make the raw apple pie where you just throw the apples in the filling. So do you have any advice?
Kate McDermott
I do. Don't make it this high.
Megan Scott
Okay.
Kate McDermott
So when you are doing the big mile high apple pie, the qualities of apples is they slump and you're left with a Grand Canyon in there or that big crevasse. And so cut your apples a little smaller rather than too big. And I'm the first person who will say, in art of the pie, I say cut apples to a size that you can comfortably get into your mouth. Well, all apples are not the same. I spent an evening one time placing 18. I had 18 different varieties of apples. I had one refrigerator that was just dedicated to apple storage. Crazy. And so I got out sheet pans and put some parchment paper down marked off nine squares on the parchment paper and put a unpeeled apple on each square and baked them. And I wanted to see, do they hold their shape? Do they not hold their shape? What's it like on the inside? What is the Fleshlight? Is it soft? Is it mushy? Is it still hard? It was a fascinating little exercise. Some looked like they were just collapsing on themselves. Others were sitting in a pool of sugar juice. It was all over the map. So what that told me is first of all, it's a wonderful thing to put a big variety of apples in a pie. If you can. I'd suggest going to the store or your farmer's market or the trees that you have and picking one or two of everything and cutting those up. I sometimes don't peel apples. There are a few that I do because of the nature of particular skins, like the new Cosmic Crisps, I think are fabulous. But I do find their skin a little distracting in a pie. So I peel that one. I'll peel a Granny Smith. But things like a Roxbury Russet, I'm not going to peel that or a Spitzenberg or you know, some of these different varieties. So getting back to is it going to slump or not? If I. What I found for the best results that I don't have to worry about it is don't over mound. You know, first we had don't overfill, well apples. Those are one that you really don't have to worry about. Is it going to leak out on your oven floor? But in this sense you don't want to over mount. You can have a nice little, a little hill. You don't have to have this, the Mount Everest pie on there. And you know, I think there was a PBS series on a few good pie places and they showed one of the places making pies that I, I think that was probably a 12 inch high pie. I don't know how you would eat it. You know, are you going to take a bite of that or is it just for the show of like.
John Becker
Okay, were they starting off, were they starting off with like a regular shallow pie pan or was it a especially deep.
Kate McDermott
No, it was a regular pie pan.
Megan Scott
Wow.
Kate McDermott
Yeah. So, okay, fine. And you know, just mounding, mounding, mounding. So I personally feel that just bring it down just a little bit and then don't have such the pieces be so big that they are going to not be done after an hour or an hour and 10 minutes or whatever. And to make sure that you can hear some steady bubbling coming through and also take a fork or a knife and. And tuck it into your vents to see are the apples soft?
Megan Scott
That's great advice and I love kind.
Kate McDermott
Of like going a lot further than just the slumping there.
Megan Scott
But no, this is great. This is great pie advice. And I love your tip on just using a variety. A wide variety of apples too, because I think people get caught up in, you know, what's the best apple for apple pie. But the best apple is a variety of apples. All. All of them.
Shannon Larson
I also think getting them too bite sized. I feel like a lot of people cut the apples like so the pieces are so large. I just don't like eating that. Like, it's just too much. So bite sized bits. I'm gonna remember that next time.
Kate McDermott
Yeah, you don't want it so small that it's gonna just turn into mush.
Megan Scott
Right.
Kate McDermott
But if there is just one apple that I could choose, and I've been asked this, if you only had apple, one apple to put in a pie, what would it be? It would be a Gravenstein. I think they have a wonderful balance of tart and sweet. They're horrible keepers.
Megan Scott
Yeah.
Kate McDermott
You want to make them, you know, the pie when they're in season or you can. You can freeze a filling. But boy, that Gravenstein pie is. I think it's the. I think that's the apple that poets must write about.
Megan Scott
I haven't seen a Gravenstein in a while. I mean, you might find it at a farmer's market. Market, not so much your grocery store.
Kate McDermott
And it's one of the early. The early apples. Yeah.
Megan Scott
You mentioned a little bit about listening for the sound of the pie. Can you talk a little bit about what Sizzlewomp is?
Kate McDermott
Huh? That started when I had taken a pie out of the oven. I had made a pie in a very large pie pan. It was actually a pie pan made out of the pottery for shabu shabu, the Japanese stovetop cooking. So it was actually a shabu shabu. And I had made this very large pie in there that actually serves 15 people. Oh. Oh, my gosh. Oh, it's huge. When I took it out of the oven, I heard this. And I'm getting. You know, my previous career was professional music. So I'm going, what is this? And I get my ear down to it and I start listening to pies and I hear the whomping, which some people call the. The heartbeat of the pie. And then I'm hearing the sizzling in of the fat in the crust. So I kind of coined this sizzle whomp. And what I found is that every fruit has a different wump. So apples have that deeper whomp. Whomp. But cherries, a thinner juice. So they're all different. And I just find it fascinating to. To listen to them.
John Becker
Do you think it has something to do with the amount of pectin that's, you know, in these different fruits, or is it just. Who knows?
Kate McDermott
Now you're asking a very scientific question. I'm just a pie maker.
Megan Scott
Yeah. We're talking about art. Art and music, and I apologize.
Kate McDermott
That's okay.
Megan Scott
I love that they all have a different kind of language, and I love also listening for. That's, I think, an underrated way of telling when something is ready or at a certain stage of cooking is really like listening. Listening to it. Listening to the way it bubbles or sizzles.
Kate McDermott
There's. Using your senses in cooking and baking is, I think, one of the greatest gifts that we get with sensory experiences in the kitchen. And I love that I can be on one side of the kitchen and I can hear something on the stove, and I know, oh, time to go over and turn it down, or whatever it is. Or for me, when I can smell the pie, the aroma of the pie wafting through my house, I know that I'm 80% baked.
John Becker
One more thing about the Sizzlewomp. Does the geoduck pie, that it's like a family favorite. Does that have a Sizzlewomp?
Kate McDermott
Yeah.
John Becker
Oh, yeah, yeah.
Kate McDermott
It's a different one. That's different. And, you know, I was thinking about that when you were talking about mushrooms. Also, if I could circle back there for a moment, because that pie is just excellent. If you do sliced truffles right on the top of it, it's quite good.
Megan Scott
Like, after it comes out of the oven, you slice them.
Kate McDermott
No, you put those on when you're making a go duck pie, which people.
Megan Scott
Go, I think we need to back up, explain what even. We know what it is because we're in the Pacific Northwest. But what. What is gooey duck?
Kate McDermott
A gooey duck is the largest clam. It's the. The indigenous clam to the Pacific Northwest. It's a nisqually term, guiduck. Even though it's spelled G e O D u C k, it's pronounced like G W e e. Do you see? Guiduck. And the term means digs deep. So the guiduck. If I said to someone, I make a big clam pie, would you like that? They go, yeah, that sounds great. I said, it's kind of like having a thicker clam chowder in between the crust. Sound good? Yes. And then I bring out the guiduck and they go, what is that? Because here's this large clam stuck between two oval shells, long, elongated oval shells with the mantle that is in the shell and then the siphon. And the siphon is what gives it its uniqueness.
Megan Scott
Its elephant trunk appearance.
Kate McDermott
Yes, Its elephant tr.
Megan Scott
Yes.
Kate McDermott
So I've got some instructions in there on how to. In art of the pie, on the big clam pie, of how to prepare the gui duck. And then basically you're using the kind of ingredients that you would for clam chowder and putting those. It's not as juicy because you don't want to have soup in there, but you want that beautiful flavor. And once I get all of that in there before I top it with the upper crust, that's when I. I was given some black truffles once and shaved those on the top. It was a pie like no other. That sounds so good.
Megan Scott
We need. That's our next cooking project. I think we need to do that.
John Becker
We can, we can find Kuita.
Megan Scott
Yeah, absolutely. Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Shannon Larson
My family wants to do something different for Thanksgiving this year and I feel like that would be a really fun thing to do with them because they love to cook too, so.
Dave Dresky
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Megan Scott
All right, we've got to get to answering our caller question. This week we're going to talk about meringue. Sarah, can you read the question, please?
Sarah
What's the trick to sky high meringue that holds its shape and doesn't shrink or weep?
Megan Scott
Kate, I'm going to let you take this. And then we have thoughts, too, but I want to hear what you have to say about it.
Kate McDermott
Well, in general, there are three different meringues that we use. There's French meringue, Swiss meringue, and Italian meringue. A French meringue is the one that I learned from my grandmother. First, it is just the egg whites and some sugar, a little bit of cream of tartar, and beating it until you get the beautiful white, frothy meringue. The problem with this is that it doesn't hold its shape for very long. A French meringue is lovely, but it should be eaten within a few hours. In my humble opinion, it will not hold overnight. It'll start shrinking. So what do we do? We choose to take a look at some of the other options, which would be the Swiss meringue or the Italian meringue. Both of these use heat. So the Swiss meringue, you are having all of your ingredients heating to a particular temperature over a water bath. And then once it reaches the temperature, then putting that into a stand mixer or a hand mixer and beating. And now you get your big loft.
Megan Scott
Great.
Kate McDermott
And placing it on the top of the pie. It's a little. It's a sturdier meringue. It holds longer. Then the third one is the Italian meringue, which in this one you make basically, I think it's 2 parts sugar to one part of water, and you make a, basically a simple syrup on there and then heat that. Then you mix that into your egg whites and beet. And that one also, you will hold your shape with those last two. Just make as much as you can and pile it high. You can either, you know, put it under the broiler or use your blowtorch.
Megan Scott
My favorite kitchen torch.
Kate McDermott
There's also another one. Have you ever made meringue with aquafaba?
Megan Scott
I have, but not, not for a pie pan.
Kate McDermott
It doesn't hold. Okay. So it would be similar more to the French meringue. Okay. Serve it on the day that you make it.
Megan Scott
Yeah.
Kate McDermott
And I have made it with the aquafaba, which is bean juice from garbanzos. I've done it from red kidney beans. I've done it from black beans. I've done it not only from the canned beans. When I've cooked garbanzos in my insta pot, I save the water and I've made aquafaba from that. And it's beautiful. It takes a lot longer in the whipping. A lot longer.
Megan Scott
Do you stabilize it with anything or just whip it with sugar?
Kate McDermott
You whip it with sugar? Yeah.
John Becker
Okay, so you were saying it's similar to a French meringue. Have you tried it with the Italian meringue method or.
Kate McDermott
No, I haven't. That should be on my list to do. Maybe we can circle back around if you decide to do that, see what your results, you know.
John Becker
Yeah, we'd love to experiment with that.
Megan Scott
My go to for pie has become Italian meringue because it is so pillowy and glossy and like marshmallowy, and it just holds up so nicely. The only downside is you need a thermometer. You've got to cook that syrup to 238 or 240 before you drizzle it in. So it just requires a little coordinating with the hot syrup and the whipping of the egg whites.
John Becker
Well, yeah. And it also helps to be using a saucepan that has a little bit of a lip on it so that you can just pour it directly from there into the stand mixer. And then you have to be a little accurate with how you're pouring the syrup so it doesn't hit the tines of the stand mixer of the whisk or get it like on the side of the stand mixer bowl.
Kate McDermott
And of course, you have all of that on page 794.
Megan Scott
Amazing. Thank you for pulling that out. I didn't even have the page number written down.
John Becker
Yeah, the 2019 edition is the first or we pulled all of the meringue information into one spot. And it's actually, I think the first edition where we talk about all three types of those meringues, like by name. Yeah, that was quite an undertaking. Just like condensing, because I think we had meringue information in three different.
Megan Scott
Yeah, it was three different chapters scattered around. We also have in the book. I think it's. What. What is the name of the recipe?
John Becker
Soft Meringue toppings one and two.
Megan Scott
Yes, thank you. But it's a stabilized meringue. It's more like a French meringue, but it has a cornstarch slurry that is added to it. So you cook cornstarch with just a little bit of water until it thickens up into a gel, and then you add that to your meringue, and that also will stabilize it. So if you don't want to go to the fuss of making the Italian or the Swiss meringue, you can do the cornstarch trick, and that really helps hold it for a little while. But other than that, I would just say avoid overbeating the egg whites. I think people overbeat a lot and they get really grainy.
Kate McDermott
Grainy.
Megan Scott
Yeah. Not so nice.
Kate McDermott
And it just. It looks funny. You lose that beautiful luster. Yeah, Yeah. I was just watching the great British bake Off.
Shannon Larson
Yes.
Kate McDermott
Last night, and it was meringue week. Was so much fun to watch.
Megan Scott
So stressful.
Kate McDermott
Oh, my gosh. I love this show.
Megan Scott
Those meringue towers they were making. Incredible. Like, I. I don't know. I would have had a heart attack, but it would looked incredible.
John Becker
Yeah.
Kate McDermott
Yeah. I have a question for you. So, Megan, your frangipan fruit tarts, those just are. I've been into a bakewell tart mode, and I think these just look fabulous. Those are the ones on page 677 in there. I just love that what you have given people in here is the freedom to, like, okay, you got the dough, you got your pap, brisee or sucre, and you've got your frangipan. Now, what kind of fruit do you want? That's my type of recipe.
Megan Scott
Yes, me too.
Kate McDermott
You know, within high camp, the third book I try and kind of distill, here are the basic steps of doughs or a filling or a fruit or a topping. And now it's like the. Do you remember the flip books that had the mouth and the nose and the eyes and you could make different faces with. That's what I love about pies, is there's an infinite variety of what you can come up with. And your recipe for the. The fruit tart reminder, the frangipane fruit tart. It's on page 677, in case your listeners are wondering.
Megan Scott
I love that recipe.
Kate McDermott
It just reminded me of that.
Megan Scott
That was one I used to make. I used to have a little farmer's market baking business when we lived in Tennessee for a few years. And I made that tart every week, but it was. It was different every week because it was whatever fruit was in season. And it work. It works with basically anything you want to do with pears, with berries, with figs. One of my favorites is Raspberry. I just love a raspberry Franny pan. But, yeah, that's a fantastic recipe that I highly recommend. But we're going to assign, for this week's Joy Scouts recipe, we're assigning the lemon meringue pie on page 681 so you can practice your meringue, however you decide to make it. And it's a, it's a pretty, I mean, it's a pretty easy and forgiving pie, I think. And it's a favorite of. I think everybody just loves lemon meringue pie. It's so zesty and delicious.
Kate McDermott
That was my grandmother's. Her. Her pie. It was. She was known for that. And I just want to mention something on there. Be sure that when you are cooking the eggs in there that you really do get them to a boil in there because there's a enzyme, the alpha animalized enzyme in there that this is the geeky part of the pie geek, is if that's not killed off, it loves to eat cornstarch. And even if there's just one little enzyme in there, it says, oh, there's cornstarch, and it starts eating it up and then it multiplies and that is. And it eats up the rest of it. And that's when you get the beautiful custard, you know, the filling that you've made. And it just, yep, liquefies. So you've got to, you've got to cook that thing and stir and stir and stir. And so you hear some plop, plop, plopping. That's another term. You got the sizzle one, you got the plop, plop.
Megan Scott
Good, good sounds. When it comes to pie making, if you have a cooking question or joy story to share, call our hotline at 503-395-885. Leave us a message or send us a text. We would love to hear from you, Sarah. Can you please read or play our next week's caller question?
Sarah
I listen to your podcast several times per week. It's comforting, even on Repeat. I have three Joy of Cooking books. 1975, 1997, and 2019. I have a problem finding recipes when I search a specific recipe. Do you have any guidance on how to use the index?
Megan Scott
Thanks, Patrick. Fun. So next week we're going to talk about how to use the index in Joy of Cooking, which may not sound exciting, but I think as cookbook people, we're excited to talk about it.
John Becker
Well, yeah, we have some index angst.
Megan Scott
Yes. All right, what is everybody cooking this week? Shannon, what about You.
Shannon Larson
We do our annual spooky movie night this week, and we're making. We tend to just make a bunch of different pizzas using the Joy of Cooking's pizza dough recipe. Thank you. So I'm really looking forward to that. And then, of course, our friends always bring over too much extra food. So I mean too much in quotes, like it's the most amazing thing. So. And then we'll carve our pumpkins. So. I'm always excited about that.
Megan Scott
That's fine. I'm sad I'm gonna miss that. I have a class that night, but I'm. I missed the carving of the pumpkin.
Shannon Larson
Well, John, you're just gonna have to.
Megan Scott
Yeah. John 2.
John Becker
You're picking me up. I know we're a one car household, so it's either that or I don't come.
Shannon Larson
I'll pick you up. What about you two?
Megan Scott
I don't. I mean, other than using our mushrooms that we're gonna use some tonight. We're making a, like a lemon ricotta pasta, and we're gonna roast some of the white chanterelles and have that with the pasta.
John Becker
Roast them a little and then saute them because they're. They're a little wet, but yeah. Yeah. Aside from that, definitely thickened soups. I've had borscht on the mind for like a month now, and it's. I feel like it's raining.
Megan Scott
Do it. Okay.
John Becker
All right. Yeah, we have some smoked brisket that we still have. You know, it's in the freezer. I'm thinking smoked brisket in the Porsche?
Shannon Larson
Heck yes.
Megan Scott
Sounds great. What about you, Kate? Are you looking forward to cooking anything this week?
Kate McDermott
Well, I'll be prepping for a class that I'm doing down on Vashon island, so I'm making a lot of chicken pot pies to take down. And I'm going to be making some BlackBerry pies of the last of. You know, there was a lot of picking that went on, so I've got that. And then I'll be kind of. I'll be doing at least one apple pie down there, too. So it's. It's pie week here.
Megan Scott
It's pie time. Who. Who would have thought? Imagine that. And I just wanted to put a plug in for. You know, we're entering kind of a tough time due to the government shutdown. There's a lot of people who are facing, you know, losing their SNAP benefits. Groceries are really expensive, so if you have the means, please donate money to your local food bank. Food banks can use the cash and buy more food than you can buy with that same dollar. And they also know what they need. So I think giving cash is a really powerful way to help your local food banks. And then if you live somewhere with free fridges, you can also like cook food and take it to the free fridge or just, you know, buy a bunch of ready to eat or easy to prepare foods and stock the free pantry and free fridge and just reach out to your neighbors and let's take care of each other. Let's feed each other. That's kind of what this is all about. Kate, before we wrap, where can listeners follow you?
Kate McDermott
Well, they can find me on Substack. I have a newsletter called Kate McDermott's Newsletter and I'm also on Bluesky at Kate McDermott.
Megan Scott
Perfect. And we'll add all of that to the show notes as well so people can find you. Thanks for listening to the Joy of Cooking podcast before we go, show some love for your favorite podcast by subscribers subscribing to the show and leaving us a review. Follow us at joyofcooking.substack.com and on Instagram at the Joy of Cooking. Stay tuned for next week where we'll talk about using a cookbook's index. And don't forget to make this week's recipe, lemon Meringue Pie on page 681. Call in with questions, hopes, history or where you find joy in the kitchen. Our number is 503-395-8858. That's 503-395-8858.
Shannon Larson
And we could not do this without our fantastic team at the Joy of Creation production House. Thank you to Dave Dresky, our production coordinator, Haley Bowers, our audio engineer and Sarah Marshall, our producer.
Sarah
If you love the stories we bring you each week, please consider supporting us on Patreon. As an independent media company, your support is absolutely essential. It allows us to continue creating high quality professional episodes that amplify the voices of women, small business owners, writers, artists and creatives and keep their stories free from commercial pressure. By becoming a Patreon member, you're not just supporting us, you're investing in the future of independent Media. Please visit patreon.com thejoyofcreationproductionhouse to join our community today. Thank you for listening and supporting our podcast Dreams.
Hosts: John Becker, Megan Scott, Shannon Larson
Guest: Kate McDermott, Pie Expert & Author (Art of the Pie)
Date: November 12, 2025
This week, the Joy of Cooking Podcast welcomes Kate McDermott—celebrated pie instructor, James Beard finalist, and author of Art of the Pie—for a lively, warm, and knowledge-packed conversation. The discussion roams from mushroom foraging to roast chicken rituals, deep dives into the nostalgic magic of pie, and, most importantly, all things meringue: how to make it, make it last, and make it spectacular. Throughout, listeners are treated to culinary wisdom, kitchen stories, practical pie tips, and some memorable moments of food and family.
Caller Question [48:24]:
Q: What’s the trick to sky-high meringue that holds its shape and doesn’t shrink or weep?
“Pie is a carrier of our memories...it's not hard. Anything can be. You're going to succeed at whatever you believe.”
— Kate McDermott [22:17]
“Chill everything—especially yourself.”
— Kate McDermott [24:32]
“I’m not an expert. I’m a practitioner of a craft, and as a practitioner, I’m always practicing.”
— Kate McDermott [29:16]
“Every fruit has a different wump ... I'm just a pie maker.”
— Kate McDermott [41:13, 42:57]
“Just make as much [meringue] as you can and pile it high. You can either, you know, put it under the broiler or use your blowtorch.”
— Kate McDermott [50:38]
Kate McDermott:
This Week’s Joy Scouts Recipe:
The tone is joyful, nostalgic, and gently irreverent—blending practical advice with love for the process, for learning, and for sharing food. There's a welcoming, egalitarian sense of, “Yes, you can make this!” and of food as a force for togetherness.
This episode is a must for bakers of any level, pie enthusiasts, and anyone who needs a boost of kitchen confidence with a side of laughter and heart.