Transcript

Steven Rinella (0:00)

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Matt Skogland (2:04)

The Meat Eater Podcast.

Steven Rinella (2:06)

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Matt Skogland (2:38)

Exactly.

Steven Rinella (2:39)

Yeah. I'll tell you the first thing I want to tell you about is, dude, the, the. The. The hanger stakes.

Matt Skogland (2:47)

Yeah.

Steven Rinella (2:48)

That you gave me.

Matt Skogland (2:49)

Yeah.

Steven Rinella (2:49)

You give me off those animals is like. Is. I hate to say it because I should be saying this about like deer meat or something, but dude, that is some of the best stuff in the world, man.

Summary

The MeatEater Podcast – Ep. 874: How To Start a Bison Ranch

Host: Steven Rinella
Guest: Matt Skogland, North Bridger Bison
Date: May 11, 2026

Episode Overview

In this episode, Steven Rinella sits down with Matt Skogland, founder and owner of North Bridger Bison in Montana, to dig into the pragmatic and philosophical nuts and bolts of starting and running a bison ranch. The conversation covers Matt’s unorthodox journey from corporate law and environmental policy to ranching, the ecological and economic roles of bison in North America, hands-on details about animal management, field harvesting, fencing, land acquisition, and building a direct-to-consumer meat business. The episode intertwines personal anecdotes, conservation discussion, and technical advice, all delivered with MeatEater’s signature humor and candidness.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

Discovering the Hanger Steak (02:39–06:20)

Discussion of Bison "Off Cuts":
- Steven raves about the hanger steak from North Bridger Bison, calling it “some of the best stuff in the world.”
- Matt explains the hanger steak’s location—right in front of the tenderloins—and notes it’s difficult to extract unless you know where to look. Only one per animal.
- Notable Quote:
  - Steven: “It just comes right out with the gut pile. And it's kind of like attached to like the liver and the lungs. But once you, once you know, you take it out and there's one per animal, and it's called a hanger. Hanging tender.” (03:23)

North Bridger Bison: The Ranch and Its Philosophy (06:20–08:16)

About North Bridger Bison:
- Matt, his wife Sarah, and their kids started the ranch from scratch eight years ago outside Bozeman, Montana.
- All bison are field harvested on the ranch—no live transport. The ranch raises bison as much in sync with nature as possible and focuses on biodiversity.
- Meat is sold direct-to-consumer; customers can purchase quarter, half, whole, or special blends.
Matt on the Mission:
- “We’re obsessed with details. Strive for excellence...really trying to provide our customers with the best red meat they’ll ever taste in their life.” (07:53)

Matt’s Path: From Chicago to Bison Rancher (08:16–11:18)

Zero Agricultural Background:
- Matt shares his background: born in Chicago, law degree, brief corporate law stint, then a career in environmental policy—specifically working on wild bison policy in Montana.
- Moved to Bozeman in 2008, fell in love with both Montana and the bison species.

The Complex Politics of Wild Bison (11:10–22:11)

Yellowstone Bison Management:
- Discussion of the jurisdictional complexities when Yellowstone bison leave the park and become subject to Montana’s joint management as both wildlife (Fish, Wildlife & Parks) and livestock (Department of Livestock).
- Colorado distinguishes wild bison from livestock: “If a bison walks into the state on its own four legs—it is wildlife.” (13:32)
Advocacy and Consensus Building:
- Matt worked to expand tolerance zones for wild bison outside the park, forming a citizen working group that included ranchers, wildlife advocates, and others, and succeeded in changing management for certain areas (such as Horse Butte).
- “...We actually made progress...the low-hanging fruit. And now...it’s a tough issue.” (19:31)
Genetic vs. Ecological Extinction:
- Steven: “We solved the problem of genetic extinction...But...ecological extinction. They’re not a participating member of the natural biome across most of their range.” (21:22)

Ranching as Conservation: The Next Step (22:10–27:32)

Policy Frustrations and Practical Action:
- Matt grew frustrated with the limits of nonprofit work and saw that influencing food production and consumer choices has far-reaching impacts on biodiversity.
- “If we're really going to protect biodiversity...it has to come from how we produce things and how we consume things, like through the business world.”
Why Bison/Ranching:
- Already attached to the species through policy work and saw bison as offering conservation value; wanted his life’s work to be practical, measurable, and land-based.

The Role of Private Bison Producers (30:25–33:51)

Private vs. Public Herds:
- Steven and Matt agree that private bison producers are essential to keeping the species on the landscape—over 94–95% of North America’s bison are privately owned.
- Most public/conservation herds are intensely managed or fenced; true “wild” bison are extremely rare.
- Notable Quote:
  - Matt: “If you really want to split hairs and say, how many wild bison are out there? I mean, it’s a fraction. A fraction of a fraction of a fraction of a percentage.” (33:08)

Starting a Bison Ranch: Land, Learning, and Fencing (34:09–56:25)

Getting Started (34:09–46:34)

Learning the Ropes:
- Matt read Dan O’Brien’s “Buffalo for the Broken Heart,” inspiring his focus on field harvesting for ethical and meat quality reasons.
- He attended a holistic management workshop and learned from regenerative consultants, then scoured the internet for land.
- Land search was demoralizing—until he stumbled upon the right parcel in the Shield Valley in 2018.
- Memorable Moment:
  - “I was expecting to find, like, a toxic landfill in the middle...And I was like, holy. Like, this is spectacular.” (47:28)

Fencing and Animal Control (51:35–56:25)

Challenging Common Misconceptions:
- Some bison producers resist wild bison expansion, fearing animal escapes. Matt explains proper fencing and management mitigate these risks.
Fencing Details:
- The ranch uses a 5-wire high-tensile, wildlife-friendly perimeter fence—middle wire is electrified as a psychological barrier, allowing pronghorn to go under and deer/elk/moose to go over.
- Bison are strongly herd-driven; proper management (food, water, etc.) keeps them in.

Herd Management: Breeding, Weaning, and Escapes (58:33–76:49)

Herd Structure and Grazing:
- Normally run as one herd year-round with bulls and cows together; management mimics natural high-intensity, short-duration grazing patterns to benefit grassland ecology.
- Switch from mature “breeding bulls” to letting sexually mature two-year-olds do all the breeding, reducing escape risk and mimicking natural selection.
- Calves are self-weaned—“the longer that animal’s on mom, the healthier that animal is going to be for the rest of its life.” (78:56)
Handling the Unexpected:
- Stories of bison (especially bulls) escaping; Matt emphasizes the importance of neighbor relations and quick response.
- “I think there's a second bet of when—when's Matt gonna die.” (43:26)
- “...If bulls start leaving and walking all over, the neighbors, rightfully so, would be like, what's going on, Matt? Like, have you lost control of your animals?” (66:52)
- Cows routinely breed for many years (some over 15 calves) and twins are rare but usually survive.

Field Harvest: Ethics, Logistics, and Connection (79:14–90:54)

Field Harvest Protocol:
- Matt selects an appropriate animal, takes a careful headshot at close range, and immediately processes the carcass—saves various organs (“tongue, cheeks, heart, liver, kidneys, hanging tender”), and brings the animal to a local butcher for aging and further processing.
Ethics and Customer Connection:
- Emphasizes transparency and demystifying the death part of meat-eating. Customers receive photos of their specific animal—alive, freshly harvested, and as a split carcass.
- Ships directly to customers (half in Montana, half nationwide). Uses recycled packaging, manages whole fulfillment process.

Customer Stories, Supply and Demand, and Building a Business (91:03–104:46)

Direct Sales and Customer Experience:
- Every order is handled with personal communication. Demand exceeds supply; customers often become friends through correspondence and shared recipes/photos.
- “...If the meat tastes like shit, no one’s, no one’s going to buy from us. Right. Like you buy a quarter Bison, 85 pounds of bison meat and you eat your way through it...when you reorder, that...is a great sign.” (75:59)
Business Confidence and Ongoing Anxiety:
- Early days brought intense anxiety; now, Matt still “sleeps with one eye open” but feels more secure—though never complacent.
- “...That summer of 2018...it was like, we might horrifically crash and burn. But we got to try it, because if we don’t, I’ll regret it forever.” (96:00)

Bison Biology Nuggets & Memorable Moments

Hanger Steak’s Biological Purpose (104:08–104:44):
- Phil (producer) reports: “It helps. It facilitates the contraction of the diaphragm during breathing and other throat stuff...called the legs of the diaphragm or the crura...has to do with the spinal cord and some esophagus function.” (104:08)
Historical Anecdote:
- At the Folsom buffalo kill site, there are no tailbones because hides (with tails) were removed before butchering—tails are both prized meat and a “handle.” (88:18–88:44)
Steven’s Favorite Clovis Tool Butchering Video (105:06):
- If you want to see field harvest in action, look up “butchering a bison with Clovis points and tools” on YouTube, filmed at North Bridger Bison.

Notable Quotes

On Ecological Extinction:
- Steven: “Ecological extinction. That they are, like, effectively ecologically extinct. They're not a participating member of the natural biome—across most of their range.” (21:53)
On Taking the Leap:
- Matt: “Like. I'd rather go for it and fail than never have tried.” (96:11)
On Bison Herd Instinct:
- Matt: “If you really want a buffalo proof fence you need like a 14 foot brick wall...the great thing you have going for you with bison is their herd instinct is so strong. You know, it's tens of thousands of years...programmed...safety's with the herd.” (55:10)
On Working with Neighbors:
- Matt: “If bulls start leaving and walking all over, the neighbors, rightfully so, would be like, what's going on, Matt? Like, have you lost control of your animals?” (66:52)
On Demystifying Death in Food:
- Matt: “...Death is essential to life and we’re all killing whether it’s for what we eat, what we drive, what we wear, the phones in our pockets, like...it’s just whether you’re aware of it or not.” (84:50)

Key Timestamps

Hanger steak and off cut discussion: 02:39–06:20
History and ethos of North Bridger Bison: 06:20–08:16
Matt Skogland’s path from law to bison: 08:16–11:18
Yellowstone wild bison policy & activism: 11:10–22:11
Private bison producers, game farm debate: 30:25–33:51
Land search & launching the ranch: 46:00–48:39
Fencing and keeping bison contained: 51:35–56:25
Herd management, breeding, and weaning: 58:33–79:14
Field harvest methods and ethics: 79:14–90:54
Business practices, customer care, anxiety: 91:03–97:47
Bison escapes and neighbor relations: 97:47–101:50
Order handling and field harvest waitlist: 102:20–104:46
Biology of hanger steak: 104:08–104:44
Clovis butchering video reference: 105:06–105:39

Final Thoughts

This episode offers a thorough, candid, and sometimes humorous roadmap for anyone curious about starting a bison ranch or simply understanding the ecological, culinary, and business sides of bison production. The dialogue between Steven and Matt weaves together storytelling, conservation philosophy, hard-won practical lessons, and an honest look at the anxieties and rewards of pioneering a modern livestock operation grounded in ecological values.

To learn more or order bison meat: North Bridger Bison
Watch their Clovis tool butchering video: Search “MeatEater bison Clovis points” on YouTube.

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Ep. 874: How To Start A Bison Ranch