Summary of "David Chang: Star Custodian" Episode from The Moth Podcast
Introduction In the episode titled "David Chang: Star Custodian" from The Moth podcast, released on October 17, 2011, renowned chef David Chang shares a pivotal and nerve-wracking experience from his culinary career. This story, told live at a Moth event in September 2009 under the theme "Moth Eating Food Adventures of Epic Portions," delves into the intense pressures of maintaining Michelin stars and the profound impact it had on Chang and his restaurant, Momofuku Co.
Context of the Event David Chang, the executive chef and owner of the Momofuku Restaurant group, recounts a significant day in winter 2009 when Jean Luc Nuret, the director of the Michelin Guide, visited his 12-seat establishment, Momofuku Co, located on 10th Street and First Avenue. At that time, Momofuku Co had been awarded two Michelin stars—the highest commendation the restaurant had achieved.
Importance of Michelin Stars Chang emphasizes the immense value and pressure associated with Michelin stars, especially within the culinary community. He explains:
“[08:00] David Chang: ...the Michelin Guide and the star system meant everything. I would go into work on the day the Red Book would come out, and you would hear about French restaurants that I had no idea about gaining a star or losing a star.”
He elaborates on the star hierarchy:
“[09:45] David Chang: One star is awesome. It's great in its category. Two stars mean it's worth a detour. Three stars mean you're at the pinnacle, you are at the top, and it's worth a special occasion.”
For Chang, receiving Michelin stars was not just an honor but a monumental responsibility that influenced every aspect of his restaurant's operations.
The Visit of Jean Luc Nuret During the fateful visit, Chang describes the atmosphere as uncharacteristically tense:
“[05:30] David Chang: We were more nervous. And we're never nervous. Like when a critic comes in.”
Jean Luc Nuret, known for his discerning palate and strict standards, was dining with a companion who was a vegetarian, adding another layer of complexity to the dining experience at Momofuku Co.
The Interaction and Its Impact As the meal progressed, Chang details the escalating anxiety:
“[12:20] David Chang: I became extraordinarily paranoid about the food. I lost the ability to think straight.”
Midway through the dinner, Nuret posed a crucial question that left Chang reeling:
“[14:10] David Chang: ...Jean Luc Nuret asked me this question: 'Do you want three Michelin stars?'”
This question forced Chang to confront the underlying motivations driving his culinary creations. He reflects:
“[15:30] David Chang: ...were we cooking for ourselves? Were we cooking for the diners?”
Chang's fear of losing a star or striving for a third plunged him into a state of introspection about the authenticity of his cooking and the external pressures of accolades.
Reflections and Conclusions The encounter with Nuret became a turning point for Chang, highlighting the intangible burdens that come with high recognition. He admits:
“[15:50] David Chang: ...I care very much, and I'm deathly afraid we're going to lose a star.”
This admission underscores the constant vigilance and stress that Michelin stars impose on chefs, questioning whether culinary passion remains genuine or becomes tainted by the pursuit of perfection as defined by external standards.
Conclusion David Chang's story, as presented in "Star Custodian," offers a candid glimpse into the high-stakes world of fine dining and the personal toll of maintaining prestigious accolades. It underscores the delicate balance between passion for cooking and the pressures of external validation, making it a compelling narrative for both food enthusiasts and those interested in the human aspects of culinary excellence.
Notable Quotes:
- [08:00] David Chang: "I would go into work on the day the Red Book would come out, and you would hear about French restaurants that I had no idea about gaining a star or losing a star."
- [09:45] David Chang: "One star is awesome. It's great in its category. Two stars mean it's worth a detour. Three stars mean you're at the pinnacle, you are at the top, and it's worth a special occasion."
- [14:10] David Chang: "Jean Luc Nuret asked me this question: 'Do you want three Michelin stars?'"
- [15:30] David Chang: "Were we cooking for ourselves? Were we cooking for the diners?"
- [15:50] David Chang: "I care very much, and I'm deathly afraid we're going to lose a star."
Final Thoughts David Chang's narrative is a powerful exploration of the intersection between culinary artistry and the pressures of maintaining excellence. It serves as a testament to the challenges faced by chefs in balancing personal passion with the weight of esteemed recognitions like Michelin stars.