A (90:48)
Starting July 10th. Nothing fancy, just the first four segments of the newly designed Shephield Yisrael Israel Trail. All sorts of folks may be joining for different days or multiple days. If you have a window and would like to join, that would be terrific, end quote. And I haven't learned all that much in this lifetime, but one thing I have learned solid is when life gives you a window, you jump out of it with alone. But my calendar had lots of things on it that were hard to miss. And that is how I came to rent a cart to go starting from 2:45am on the night between last Thursday and Friday, so I could arrive by a quarter to six in the morning at what would be the end point of our day's hike, the big statue of a lion at the cemetery at Tel Chai, where Alon would meet me with his car and take me back to the starting point of our day's hike at the Banya Springs. So he'd have a car at the end of the 26km between the two spots to take us back toward the end of the day alone to his car and me to Tel Aviv before Shabbat dinner in the event, because there is no traffic to speak of at around three in the morning, I got to the cemetery at Tel Chai half an hour early at 5:15, which I was glad for as I love cemeteries, and this is my third favorite cemetery in the country, the first is at King Kineret, obviously, and the second being the old Trumpledore cemetery in Tel Aviv. And this one, which is on the spot where Trumpledore himself, Yosef Trumpledore, was killed on Yud aleph Adar Tafreshpay, March 1, 1920. He was killed protecting Tel Chai from a militia down from Lebanon. His dying words either being or not being, depending on who you ask, quote, unquote, it is good to die for your land. Which is a quote I remember hating even when I was a kid and heard the story for the first time. And the cemetery was set aside at first for graduates of the Shomer the Guard, a Jewish militia that operated from 1907 to 1920, protecting Jewish settlements in the area. And if you walked around and there are hundreds of graves of people who died from the 1920s all, all the way through the 2000s, when the people must have been almost 100 years old. And many of the names are familiar, but most are not. And you see in marble how this thing that they'd done at the beginning of the 20th century, when they were young, when they were so young, taking up guns, learning to shoot to protect Jews, making farms and collective settlements, how that moment was a big part of who these people were for as long as they lived. And then too, I guess, after they took died near the big statue of the lion, which is dedicated to the eight people who died on that day in 1920 at Tel Chai, I saw that someone had set up an Israeli flag with a big yellow ribbon for the people taken hostage into Gaza. 103 years, 5 months and 6 days after Trumpledor and the 7 others had died protecting Tel Chai, Alon was there right on time to collect me. And he drove me back to Banyas, where we met up with my old young Judea friend, Deb Housen, and also with Daniel or Orenstein, an environmental planning professor at the Taglion who's become a friend, even though back in the day he was in Habonim. And the four of us started to hike on the trail, following as best we could, the white, blue and orange markings painted onto rocks and posts saying that we're still on the Israel Trail. And we chatted as one does on a hike. Deb, who is a fancy lawyer and lots of other things besides, she was telling how lately she had developed a problem practice focusing on outer space law, setting up arbitration and mediation agreements ahead of, say, when countries or companies start mining operations on the moon and Mars, which as soon as she says it, you can see, of course, we need space lawyers. And down the trail a bit, Danny is telling how an international environmental consortium that he's worked for for years now, they seem to be shying away from anything having to do with Israel. And we're talking about this and that while walking for a time along the oil trail, which follows an oil pipeline built in the 1940s to take oil from Saudi Arabia up to Sidon in Lebanon. And it now instead takes water from where to where, I don't know. And everywhere you look, there are old army bunkers, signs of how until 1967. The place where we're walking is a place where Syrian soldiers watched and shot at Israeli soldiers and vice versa. And the hike is spectacular, taking us along and across several rivers and streams. Nahal, Hermon, Nachalsar, Nachalachziv, Nahaldan, Nahalchatzbani or Sneer. The Jordan River. There's lots of water. At some point, Alon and Danny went into the water and I watched the stream burble by. And along the way, Alon told us some about the political battles of local environmentalists here and there. To say save this or that river or this or that stand of trees alone has been kind of the beating heart of the environmental movement here in Israel since he started the Israel Union for Environmental Defense back in the 1990s. And the sun got hotter and hotter as we walked, and people. It was so beautiful, just this land. And making our way through it with old friends, that was beautiful, too. And at one point I forgot exactly where our lone stopped and said, you remember the last time we were both here? And I said, no. And Alon said it was when we were on year course. And he was right. We'd hiked the same trail when I was 18 and he was 17. And years have gone by and it all, the back then of it and the now of it, it all seemed just splendid. At the last bit of the hike, we were going up the hill from Kiryatchmona to tell Chai someone there had affixed to boulders on the side of the path, tiles engraved with the lyrics to old songs. Some a adoring like Yoram Tarlev's. Our tiny land that goes. Our tiny little land, Our beautiful land A homeland with no tunic, A barefoot homeland. Accept me into your songs, O lovely bride Open your gates to me through them I'll enter and give thanks to God.