Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer

Summary

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The Real Time Show: Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer

Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Antoine Pin, CEO of TAG Heuer

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Episode Overview

In this episode, Rob and Alon interview Antoine Pin, the CEO of TAG Heuer, during the vibrant Geneva Watch Days 2025. The discussion centers on TAG Heuer's first appearance at this event, the evolution of Geneva Watch Days, the unique culture and openness of the fair, and TAG Heuer’s technical innovations—particularly their new carbon hairspring and the launch of novel limited editions. The conversation offers rare insights into event organization, industry trends, and the enduring value of mechanical watch culture.

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Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. TAG Heuer’s First Appearance at Geneva Watch Days

• Antoine Pin reflects on the transition: TAG Heuer is new to Geneva Watch Days, which has required adaptation by the brand’s team, especially those more accustomed to other fairs like Watches and Wonders.
  • "There is this big experience of Watches and Wonders, but not necessarily of the Geneva Watch Days… you need to adapt to this form of freedom, which personally I love." (01:01)
• Focus this year is on technical messages: introducing the carbon hairspring (an alternative to silicon) and catering to real watch aficionados.

2. Technical Innovation: The Carbon Hairspring

• This breakthrough is highlighted as "the innovation of the year," with Antoine Pin describing its benefits:
  • "Carbon is lighter than silicon and allows for less influence of gravity… we did get an amazing reaction to this." (02:15)
• TAG Heuer is launching two limited editions that showcase this technology.

3. Evolution of Geneva Watch Days and Its Culture

• Antoine Pin, previously president of Geneva Watch Days, recounts its COVID-era origins and growth into a cultural event.
  • "It started during COVID times… [Jean-Christophe Babin] said we can't just let go of watch events because of COVID… from this crisis management project, we’ve moved to a meeting with the public.” (03:43)
• The event, backed by Geneva’s authorities, now prioritizes public access, cultural activities, and hands-on experiences (e.g., COSC chronometer workshops).
• Increasing support and opportunities for independent brands and entrepreneurs.
  • "If you think of the rise of independent brands, it's quite connected to the development of Watches and Wonders... more space, time, and audience dedicated to independents." (06:22)
• While expanding rapidly (now at 66 brands), the event maintains a vision of openness and solidarity among brands, both big and small.

4. Managing Growth and Philosophy of Openness

• Discussion about the upper limit of participating brands. The event’s open-access policy fuels debate every year about size, dates, and funding:
  • "With more brands, there are more opportunities... But the fundamentals were: be open, it’s an open platform, and Geneva is big enough to welcome all the industry." (09:18)
• Financial sustainability depends on a mix of small and large brands:
  • "To engage more brands means probably increasing duration, space, more money. If you’re engaging only small brands, we don’t have enough… so you need a balance.” (11:20)

5. Chronometry Battles and Community Spirit

• COSC events at the fair bring brands and participants together in practical competitions, enhancing public understanding.
• Antoine humorously recounts competing in a chronometry contest:
  • "What is winning in chronometry? ... It’s not a matter of time. It's a matter of precision." (13:03)
  • All use the SW200 base caliber from Sellita, showcasing industry camaraderie.

6. Product Highlights: What TAG Heuer Showed at the Fair

• Antoine wears and describes limited editions featuring the new carbon hairspring, also honoring 350 years since the invention of the hairspring by Christiaan Huygens.
• A new highlight: TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
  • "It's a tribute to the space race… we’re presenting a very interesting watch. The moonphase display is oversized for the best visibility and readability… always connecting to our tradition of function-oriented design." (15:28–17:02)
• Emphasis on TAG Heuer’s identity as a chronograph innovator, including their use of tricolor dials.

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On adapting to Geneva Watch Days:
  "You need to adapt to this form of freedom, which personally I love… but again, you need to adjust when you are doing the setup and the planning." — Antoine Pin (01:02)

• On innovation:
  "This carbon solution to the production of hairspring is super interesting… And the reaction was excellent because this event is really made for that." — Antoine Pin (02:14)

• Event Philosophy:
  "The absolute vision would be to have all the industry visible here… at that moment, there's something bigger than the competition, and it's this common culture and a form of solidarity that we're exhibiting here." — Antoine Pin (10:16)

• On competition and camaraderie:
  "Everybody's contributing, including suppliers… That's what I love with this event." — Antoine Pin (13:57)

• TAG Heuer’s technical journey:
  "It took the guys 10 years and we failed and we started again and they did it. I love the fact that we show their achievements." — Antoine Pin (14:44)

• New Carrera Astronomer:
  "The counter related to the moon phase is oversized for the best visibility and readability… always connect to our tradition identity as a watchmaker." — Antoine Pin (16:18)

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Important Timestamps

• 00:28–02:15 — TAG Heuer’s debut at Geneva Watch Days and the carbon hairspring innovation
• 03:21–07:52 — History of Geneva Watch Days, the focus on culture, and the rise of independents
• 08:29–12:14 — Philosophy of openness, managing growth, and maintaining the event’s convivial nature
• 12:52–14:26 — COSC chronometry challenge and community participation
• 14:44–18:20 — TAG Heuer’s carbon editions, Carrera Astronomer, and design philosophy

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Episode Tone

True to The Real Time Show’s “real talk” motto, this episode is upbeat, collegial, and playful—mixing celebration of horological innovation with candid reflections on industry challenges and opportunities. Antoine Pin’s enthusiasm for technical breakthroughs and community-building is clear throughout, while the hosts maintain a friendly, inquisitive, and slightly irreverent rapport.

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Summary Takeaways

• TAG Heuer’s Geneva Watch Days debut was a showcase for meaningful innovation and a learning experience, especially adapting to the event’s unique, open format.
• The fair itself continues to distinguish itself from more traditional shows by prioritizing culture, access, and authentic engagement.
• Both large and small brands—alongside collectors, suppliers, and press—contribute to an energetic, cooperative atmosphere.
• TAG Heuer’s technical achievements, especially the carbon hairspring and the new Carrera Astronomer, reflect its commitment to heritage and innovation.
• The event’s future is predicated on maintaining balance: openness, financial support across brand sizes, and continuing its community spirit.

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[End of Summary]

Transcript

[Antoine Pin]

Foreign.

[Interviewer 1]

Hello, watch fans, and welcome back to Geneva watch days 2025. In the glass onion outside the pavilion, we are joined by TAG Heuer CEO Antoine Pin, one of our most favorite and most frequent guests, although we're not allowed to talk about it because we don't want to inflate your ego too much. Isn't that right?

[Antoine Pin]

Yes, please.

[Interviewer 1]

Okay, so you are one of the main, most visible brands here at Geneva Watch Days. How has the fair been for you so far?

[Antoine Pin]

Well, the fair, I mean, we're one of, well, let's say one of the big players among the brands available here. Visible here, but we're still brand new. Okay. It's our first appearance at Aztag area and there's a bit of a learning curve I can see with the teams you need to. Those watch events are all different one from the other. So for people on our team who visited but didn't really get a complete perspective on this event, they had to adapt to adjust because there is this big experience of watches and wonders, but not necessarily of the Geneva Wedge days. And for those among the auditors who didn't visit the Geneva Wedge days yet, it's a very special way of doing. I mean, it's a very free format of presentations for the brand, free agendas for anyone visiting, the public, the collectors, the press. And you need to adapt to this form of freedom, which personally I love from my history. But again, you need to adjust when you are doing the setup and the planning and the programmation. So there's this kind of adjustment, but I must say, the teams adjusted it super quickly. And basically we did. Since I sort of encouraged the company to join, I gave some hints. So we know we want to show a few things. We want to somewhat concentrate on messages that are for real watch amateurs. So probably more related to the technique of watchmaking. And we introduced our carbon air spring, which is the alternative to the silicon spring, which is somewhat quite technical. And this carbon solution to the production of air spring is super interesting because the quality is somewhat similar, except that carbon is lighter than silicon and allows for less influence of gravity. So this is very internal, very somewhat technical, as I said. But we did get an amazing reaction to this, which is, I believe, is one is among the very, very big innovation you can display and probably, I would say, the innovation of the year at least. But the reaction was excellent because this show is. I mean, this event is really made for that. And the adjustment of the teams to the nature of the event was super fast. They love it. Most of people who visit this event really love the event and they do love it and they adapted. And yes, we are new, but as you rightly said, we're a big brand. So people visit us and we're having very, very cool meetings and great interactions.

[Interviewer 1]

Tag Heuer's new, but you're not. You've been around for quite a while. You've been here from the beginning. So how has it changed over six years?

[Antoine Pin]

Make me feel old now.

[Interviewer 1]

It's only six years, mate.

[Antoine Pin]

Yeah, I was already old at that time, so. Sorry. I mean, it's. Yeah, I mean, I was the, the president of the, of the event before joining tag and. And so of course I've got a very emotional connection to. Started during COVID times. It was an initiative of Jean Christophe Babin, the head of Burgari. He said we can't just let go of watch events because of the COVID We won't let Covid just take over all our lives. So. So he sort of. He called me and then we both called different CEOs and tried to embark different brand and say, guys, let's start something off. So. And from this very, let's say, crisis management kind of project, we've moved to first transforming into regular meeting with the public because we need to say that this event is highly supported by the authorities, both the Canton and the city of Geneva. And the deal with the cultural and the city was to turn this event into a cultural event. So we're very, very keen on developing all sorts of cultural animation. I just want to take the example this year of the fact that we invited the cosc, the official Chronometer certification office, to join the salon. And we are doing experiences of caliber adjustments and competition. We did do the competition ourselves, but it's really a way to make people dive into the world of watchmaking in a real way. It's really pragmatic. I mean, you're handling the calibers, you're fixing them, and it's cool. And it's really, really cool because it's experiential. But it's also a way to introduce this world of watchmaking, which is a bit secret to the public. So, yes, there's been this global evolution around the theme of again, culture of watchmaking. And because it's the culture of watchmaking, it's towards the public. And from the public we've engaged collectors. I think we've been an exceptional platform for independent brands. I mean, if you think of the rise of independent brands, it's quite connected to the development of watches and wonders why? Because it's a platform where there is more space, dedicated, more space, time and let's say audience dedicated to independence than the other big salon where the big players are and those independent creators, they're engaging lots of collectors. So there's a virtual circle where the platform is really very open to small brands. We have really entrepreneurs who just started their brands and I mean, I'm taking the example of Bianchi and he's very talkative about it. They say that clearly the Geneva Watch Days have been a way for them to massively accelerate their business. So we've got people like this and then we've got brands like Breitling, like Burrito, like ourselves. But we do have space for those people. So it's a very. Now the event is starting to a real rendezvous of the watch industry. We know already of more brands that have confirmed that they will join us next year, which then we're becoming probably a little bit victims of our success almost. But we need to maintain the mood, we need to maintain this ambience, which is very special, which is very convivial as well, because all the CEOs are here, the watchmakers are here, and we are creating those meeting points between the public and the people who are leading the industry or making the industry. And I think we found a recipe that is very complementary to Watches and Wonders. I don't think we are in. I don't think there is an antagonistic position between the two events. First there, I mean, it's every six months, so it's okay. It's not that we are at the same time at all, but with two ways of talking about watchmaking that are very complementary and more and more brands are actually doing both events.

[Interviewer 1]

Yeah, I actually think that the diversification of this event from Watches and Wonders is a great move, you know, because it's now a mature event. It's become like, well, for me, it's the number one highlight of the year. I love, I love Geneva Watch Days. It's much easier as a journalist to manage everybody being in close quarters. And now bringing in this hands on nature, this cultural angle is a great way to create some separation between it and Watches and Wonders. One thing I'm interested in is whether or not you think it's necessary to have an upper limit of brands that present here. Because we're at 66 now, I think, and that's about a 20% increase on last year. And how long can it keep going?

[Antoine Pin]

So the Geneva Watch Days is an association. There's no company running it. Basically it's a foundation, sort of. There's no benefits, there's no profit out of it. All brands are contributing in relation to their dimensions. There are different tariffs, very affordable ones for tiny companies, more expensive contributions for the biggest ones. There is a say of every member to the way the organization is growing. And probably there are two major debates every year. We're debriefing the session right after the event. And two debates arise systematically. The first one is the date. August is holiday time, later September is fashion shows and so on, and more complex to handle for the price. So it's very tricky because in the middle there is the fetish, famous Jean Jean Voir, where everything is stopping. And so we always have difficulty to fix the dates. The second debate is how many brands Every year we say, oh, we've reached. I mean, we were 15 brands, we said no more than 20. We were. We ended up being 30. I said no more than 40. And it's a question, and you're right, why? Because with more brands, there are more hugging, more opportunities of interviews, of meetings, of visits, of product exposure. But we've also the basic fundamentals of this event. Were we open, okay, it's free, it's an open platform. And Geneva is big enough to welcome all the industry. I mean, the absolute vision would be to have all the industry visible here. And yes, of course, not everyone meets everyone, but that's okay. It's a celebration of watchmaking. They are some of the biggest manufacturers in Geneva. In. In the ideal world, why would they not join this event, which is again, a platform for everybody to contribute? And without real exposure of the competition. The competition's there, but at that moment, there's something bigger than the competition and it's this common culture and a form of solidarity that we are exhibiting here, which is probably one of the reasons why this is such a convivial event. So we have this issue that how do we keep this conviviality? How do we keep this open? Do we keep this sort of very close relationship between the people? And how do we maintain the philosophy of being open? And I would add a third element to the equation. It's the financials, the budget. The running budget of this event is 1.5 million. It's very, very tiny. It's a little portion of one budget of one brand exhibiting at Watches and London's. It's very tiny. To engage more brands means obviously, probably increasing the duration of the event by one or two days, increasing the space, more money. Who's Going to pay. If you're engaging only small brands, we don't ask the money. That will be enough to pay for the budget. So you need a balance of big brands and small brands. So when big brands are joining, and the fact is, I know of two big brands that will probably join next year. Difficult to say no because they are funding the exposure of small brands. You keep the balance. And again, the philosophy is be open. It's an open space, it's an open city. So we always have the debate. And, and, and so the answer to your question is I don't know.

[Interviewer 1]

That's the best answer.

[Interviewer 2]

Let's ask the listeners and viewers. So we're streaming right now. They can either real time, just chime in or send us the questions later. But it's very interesting because you would guess, let's do it because there's more to do here for the consumers, because that's why we do it for them. Get watches on wrists. Two cool things. You guys did fun things, obviously asking us to become official media partners. So we're in this bubble, obviously.

[Antoine Pin]

Yes. Number one, I'm not proud at all.

[Interviewer 2]

But you just mentioned the chronometry.

[Antoine Pin]

Yeah.

[Interviewer 2]

You did the first battle, if I'm not mistaken, yesterday you actually took part.

[Antoine Pin]

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

[Interviewer 2]

Against your colleague Benoit.

[Antoine Pin]

Against Benoit, yeah.

[Interviewer 2]

Who won? I didn't see it.

[Antoine Pin]

No. The thing is, what is winning in chronometry? Oh, so. But you guys have the mixture. I'm embarrassed because you're asking me any question and my answer will again be I don't know. And I tell you why. I tell you why.

[Interviewer 2]

I thought we're not doing politics.

[Antoine Pin]

Because it's not a matter of time. It's not a matter of time. It's a matter of precision. So what is happening? We're fixing the calibers. The calibers are being sent to the Kosk. They are being actually sent certified and we will get the results in a few days. That's why. Okay.

[Interviewer 2]

But the big question is, do you work on your own calibers or no? We have a white dial based caliber.

[Antoine Pin]

We have a why? I mean, we have a white dial based caliber. We have one of the big, big caliber supplier of the industry who is providing the same caliber to everyone, which is a sellitar.

[Interviewer 1]

Fair enough.

[Antoine Pin]

So we all working and thanks to them because they are helping and that's what I love with this event. Everybody's contributing, including suppliers. So they provided the calibers. Then the teams from the Koska are here to support us. And let's Say, advise us on how to do things. Cool. Again, great experience. Super fun experience.

[Interviewer 1]

Do you remember which caliber it was specifically?

[Antoine Pin]

I think it's the SW200.

[Interviewer 1]

Okay.

[Antoine Pin]

Okay.

[Interviewer 1]

That's manageable. Yeah. I can't wait to see these results.

[Antoine Pin]

No, manage. No, no, they. They didn't put us in a very.

[Interviewer 2]

Very tricky situation on topic of calibers. And we're deviating and running out of time. Antoine is weighing an amazing watch.

[Antoine Pin]

Yeah.

[Interviewer 1]

Oh, yeah.

[Interviewer 2]

We should talk about base caliber did you use.

[Antoine Pin]

Finally, we talk about TAG Heuer.

[Interviewer 1]

We love tag. Come on, show us the watch.

[Antoine Pin]

Tell us the tight carbon. This doesn't. But the carbon. Carbon's big and carbon is big. This air spring is an extraordinary. Really. I'm so proud about those guys. It took the guys 10 years and we failed and we started again and they did it. I love the fact that we show their achievements. So anyway, putting this aside, we're also showing products. We are showing two limited editions, two carbon limited editions highlighting this carbon X spring, but also celebrating 350 years of the invention of the air spring by Wiggins, Constantine Huygens.

[Interviewer 1]

One of your books, isn't it?

[Interviewer 2]

From the Dutch Pride.

[Antoine Pin]

Exactly. Tribute. So those are the two limited editions. But on top of those two products, exceptional products, we are also launching a new version of a new Carrera and it's the Carrera Astronomer. So it's a tribute to the race, the space race. We also participated in this race Euro. At the time Omega, we were equipping the astronauts with our models. And this time we're presenting a very interesting watch. When I joined, I saw this model and I thought, oh, interesting. Quite traditional, but different. And what is different? It's the way the team has displayed the moon phase. Normally the moon phase display is very, very. It's those golden circles highlighting the moon hiding itself progressively while the time is passing. Here you really have a massive display, a massive exposure of the different phases of the moon with a hand highlighting the state of the moon during the days and a different calendar, 29.5 days of calendar that you actually can see. And it's actually born from this tradition of heuer and TAG Heuer to be very, very function oriented. And how does this translate? It translates into very large counters for massive readability. So here the counter related to the moon phase is oversized for the best visibility and readability of the function of this moonphase. And that's somewhat. I think it's important that we always connect to our tradition identity as a watchmaker, which is extremely clear. And that's why this product is beside, I love another element that is very specific about TAG Heuer as really the brand born from the chronographs. I mean, at some point he was only making chronographs, not even making watches. And with the first patents of Edouard Oyer were about timekeeping, time counting in. Naturally, on watches, you need three colors to display chronograph function because you've got the hours, of course, the contrast between the dial and the index markers of hours and. And then you've got the timing function, the chronograph function that requires a third color. So naturally, our identity is very much based on tricolor dials. So we are exposing it as well here. And you'll see more of this in the future.

[Interviewer 2]

Amazing. Congratulations.

[Antoine Pin]

Thank you.

[Interviewer 2]

Looks stunning.

[Interviewer 1]

I think, unfortunately we have to wrap up the show there because although we'd like to sit and talk to you all day, I would like as well. Yeah, I'm sure it's very comfortable. Actually, you've turned up a good time.

[Antoine Pin]

There's a queue of people who want.

[Interviewer 1]

To do the show with you, unfortunately, so. But thank you for taking this hour out of your day to talk to us.

[Antoine Pin]

My pleasure. Really. And congratulations for the show. Congratulations for joining us, really. Thanks a lot.

[Interviewer 1]

It really is.

[Antoine Pin]

That's part of the family.

[Interviewer 2]

Thank you. We're honored to be part of the family.

[Interviewer 1]

Well, hopefully we'll come back next year. And obviously if you want to support the show, then you know what to do. You know, comment, like, follow, subscribe, share the podcast with your friends and family and join us back here in a Glass Onion in a few minutes for more content from Geneva Watch days.

[Antoine Pin]

Sam.