The Real Time Show: Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Antoine Pin, TAG Heuer

Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Antoine Pin, CEO of TAG Heuer

Episode Overview

In this episode, Rob and Alon interview Antoine Pin, the CEO of TAG Heuer, during the vibrant Geneva Watch Days 2025. The discussion centers on TAG Heuer's first appearance at this event, the evolution of Geneva Watch Days, the unique culture and openness of the fair, and TAG Heuer’s technical innovations—particularly their new carbon hairspring and the launch of novel limited editions. The conversation offers rare insights into event organization, industry trends, and the enduring value of mechanical watch culture.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. TAG Heuer’s First Appearance at Geneva Watch Days

• Antoine Pin reflects on the transition: TAG Heuer is new to Geneva Watch Days, which has required adaptation by the brand’s team, especially those more accustomed to other fairs like Watches and Wonders.
  • "There is this big experience of Watches and Wonders, but not necessarily of the Geneva Watch Days… you need to adapt to this form of freedom, which personally I love." (01:01)
• Focus this year is on technical messages: introducing the carbon hairspring (an alternative to silicon) and catering to real watch aficionados.

2. Technical Innovation: The Carbon Hairspring

• This breakthrough is highlighted as "the innovation of the year," with Antoine Pin describing its benefits:
  • "Carbon is lighter than silicon and allows for less influence of gravity… we did get an amazing reaction to this." (02:15)
• TAG Heuer is launching two limited editions that showcase this technology.

3. Evolution of Geneva Watch Days and Its Culture

• Antoine Pin, previously president of Geneva Watch Days, recounts its COVID-era origins and growth into a cultural event.
  • "It started during COVID times… [Jean-Christophe Babin] said we can't just let go of watch events because of COVID… from this crisis management project, we’ve moved to a meeting with the public.” (03:43)
• The event, backed by Geneva’s authorities, now prioritizes public access, cultural activities, and hands-on experiences (e.g., COSC chronometer workshops).
• Increasing support and opportunities for independent brands and entrepreneurs.
  • "If you think of the rise of independent brands, it's quite connected to the development of Watches and Wonders... more space, time, and audience dedicated to independents." (06:22)
• While expanding rapidly (now at 66 brands), the event maintains a vision of openness and solidarity among brands, both big and small.

4. Managing Growth and Philosophy of Openness

• Discussion about the upper limit of participating brands. The event’s open-access policy fuels debate every year about size, dates, and funding:
  • "With more brands, there are more opportunities... But the fundamentals were: be open, it’s an open platform, and Geneva is big enough to welcome all the industry." (09:18)
• Financial sustainability depends on a mix of small and large brands:
  • "To engage more brands means probably increasing duration, space, more money. If you’re engaging only small brands, we don’t have enough… so you need a balance.” (11:20)

5. Chronometry Battles and Community Spirit

• COSC events at the fair bring brands and participants together in practical competitions, enhancing public understanding.
• Antoine humorously recounts competing in a chronometry contest:
  • "What is winning in chronometry? ... It’s not a matter of time. It's a matter of precision." (13:03)
  • All use the SW200 base caliber from Sellita, showcasing industry camaraderie.

6. Product Highlights: What TAG Heuer Showed at the Fair

• Antoine wears and describes limited editions featuring the new carbon hairspring, also honoring 350 years since the invention of the hairspring by Christiaan Huygens.
• A new highlight: TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer
  • "It's a tribute to the space race… we’re presenting a very interesting watch. The moonphase display is oversized for the best visibility and readability… always connecting to our tradition of function-oriented design." (15:28–17:02)
• Emphasis on TAG Heuer’s identity as a chronograph innovator, including their use of tricolor dials.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On adapting to Geneva Watch Days:
  "You need to adapt to this form of freedom, which personally I love… but again, you need to adjust when you are doing the setup and the planning." — Antoine Pin (01:02)

• On innovation:
  "This carbon solution to the production of hairspring is super interesting… And the reaction was excellent because this event is really made for that." — Antoine Pin (02:14)

• Event Philosophy:
  "The absolute vision would be to have all the industry visible here… at that moment, there's something bigger than the competition, and it's this common culture and a form of solidarity that we're exhibiting here." — Antoine Pin (10:16)

• On competition and camaraderie:
  "Everybody's contributing, including suppliers… That's what I love with this event." — Antoine Pin (13:57)

• TAG Heuer’s technical journey:
  "It took the guys 10 years and we failed and we started again and they did it. I love the fact that we show their achievements." — Antoine Pin (14:44)

• New Carrera Astronomer:
  "The counter related to the moon phase is oversized for the best visibility and readability… always connect to our tradition identity as a watchmaker." — Antoine Pin (16:18)

Important Timestamps

• 00:28–02:15 — TAG Heuer’s debut at Geneva Watch Days and the carbon hairspring innovation
• 03:21–07:52 — History of Geneva Watch Days, the focus on culture, and the rise of independents
• 08:29–12:14 — Philosophy of openness, managing growth, and maintaining the event’s convivial nature
• 12:52–14:26 — COSC chronometry challenge and community participation
• 14:44–18:20 — TAG Heuer’s carbon editions, Carrera Astronomer, and design philosophy

Episode Tone

True to The Real Time Show’s “real talk” motto, this episode is upbeat, collegial, and playful—mixing celebration of horological innovation with candid reflections on industry challenges and opportunities. Antoine Pin’s enthusiasm for technical breakthroughs and community-building is clear throughout, while the hosts maintain a friendly, inquisitive, and slightly irreverent rapport.

Summary Takeaways

• TAG Heuer’s Geneva Watch Days debut was a showcase for meaningful innovation and a learning experience, especially adapting to the event’s unique, open format.
• The fair itself continues to distinguish itself from more traditional shows by prioritizing culture, access, and authentic engagement.
• Both large and small brands—alongside collectors, suppliers, and press—contribute to an energetic, cooperative atmosphere.
• TAG Heuer’s technical achievements, especially the carbon hairspring and the new Carrera Astronomer, reflect its commitment to heritage and innovation.
• The event’s future is predicated on maintaining balance: openness, financial support across brand sizes, and continuing its community spirit.

[End of Summary]