Podcast Summary: The Real Time Show

Episode: Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Federico Ziviani, Gerald Charles
Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Federico Ziviani, Managing Director of Gerald Charles

Overview

In this special Geneva Watch Days episode, hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph chat with Federico Ziviani of Gerald Charles in the famed “glass igloo” outside the pavilion. The discussion explores the deep personal and professional ties between Federico’s family and legendary designer Gérald Genta, the revival and evolution of the Gerald Charles brand, and the technical, design, and strategic decisions shaping its exciting new chapter. The conversation is rich with personal anecdotes, horological insights, and big questions about legacy and future innovation.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Gerald Charles Backstory and Family Ties

[02:51–06:57]

• Federico’s Family and Gérald Genta:

  • Federico’s father, Franco, met Genta in 1982 and was requested to help develop the Gérald Genta brand in Italy.
  • The relationship deepened when Franco distributed Audemars Piguet in Italy and founded its first subsidiary.
  • In 2000, after selling his namesake brand, Genta wanted to start anew with “Gerald Charles,” enlisting Franco and his brother Gian Paolo for help.
  • Early days of Gerald Charles: highly bespoke, artistic pieces with personal involvement by Genta.

• Legacy Quote:

  • “Gerald signed a quotation, a quote, saying that he created Gerald Charles to give pleasure to whoever looks at it and like an artist, included his smile into the case, because we need to smile, we need to be happy in this life.”
    — Federico Ziviani [05:38]

2. Transitioning Post-Genta & Brand Evolution

[06:57–11:24]

• After Genta’s passing in 2011, the brand continued quietly, mainly with bespoke commissions.

• Federico’s Entry:

  • Returned to the family’s business after Computer Science studies in London.
  • Envisioned a broader audience: “We need to enlarge the scope because...my generation would want to wear some of the last designs of the Maestro.”
  • 2019 marked a strategic pivot:
    • Focus: Single-case design (the Maestro), centerpiece identity.
    • Community: Digital campaigns leveraged his IT background, engaging collectors online.
    • Retail Expansion: From 0 to 110 doors globally in six years; expanded team from 3 to 40.

• Quote:

  • “I say my objective is to deliver long term value to everybody that buys a Gerald Charles. That’s my number one objective. I’m 30 years old.”
    — Federico Ziviani [11:48]

3. The Maestro Case & Brand DNA

[13:30–14:19]

• The “Smile case” is the Maestro—a design by Genta, now the singular focus.
• Historical Range: Previously, many cases (Renaissance, Turbo, Seaside) were produced in small numbers and are now rare collectibles.
• Future Cases: Deep archive allows many options, but focus remains on Maestro for now.

4. The Burden and Opportunity of Legacy

[14:39–18:42]

• On Creating New Cases:

  • “Do you guys dare to make a case under the Gerald Charles brand that wasn’t designed by the Maestro himself?”
    — Alon Ben Joseph [14:39]
  • Federico acknowledges the weight of legacy while articulating evolution within respectful bounds.

• Evolution with Respect:

  • New references (e.g., left-handed tennis watch, titanium jumping hour) update classics.
  • The forthcoming “Master Link” uses an unused Genta 2007 sketch, combining heritage and forward-thinking.
  • “I think we need to respect the name that is on that dial.”
    — Federico Ziviani [17:47]

5. Design Details & Technical Execution

[18:42–22:22]

• Bracelet Innovation:
  • The Master Link’s asymmetrical bracelet, a rare feature in watchmaking.
  • “There is no other…brand that does that. It’s an asymmetrical bracer.”
    — Alon Ben Joseph [19:12]
• In-house Activities at Geneva Atelier:
  • Movement finishing, assembly, regulation, and extensive prototype testing.
  • 55+ iterations refined the bracelet for comfort, reliability, and hair-pulling avoidance.

6. Movements & Watchmaking Philosophy

[20:37–22:22]

• Technical Focus:

  • Micro-rotor movement, only 2.7 mm thin, with a 22k gold rotor.
  • Shared design and finishing codes between dial and movement for aesthetic harmony.
  • “For us, reliability is the most important thing. We have 0.08% of aftersale return, meaning that only eight watches out of a thousand, they come back. So it’s extremely good, because our movements are reliable…”
    — Federico Ziviani [21:22]

• In-House Caliber Ambition:

  • Step-by-step approach prioritizing reliability over verticalization for its own sake.

• Artisan Collaboration (Legacy):

  • “Les artisans du maestro”—collaborating with the best artisans and partners for each component, reflecting Genta’s own working style.

7. Relationship with the Genta Foundation and Other Brands

[22:32–24:24]

• No relationship with the Genta family or the Genta Foundation; Gerald Charles is fully independent in vision and direction.
• Healthy mutual respect and indirect kinship with Jean Arnault and other stewards of Genta’s various brand legacies (Gérald Genta at LVMH, Daniel Roth, etc.).
• Both Federico and Arnault are focused on authenticity and personal passion in their contemporary interpretations.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Legacy:

  • “We are already writing the next chapter, but respecting the legacy.”
    — Federico Ziviani [15:54]

• On Family Ties:

  • “It isn’t a refoundation. You are the natural successor.”
    — Rob Nudds [06:37]

• On Evolution:

  • “We improved the ergonomics, so we evolved its legacy. But we don’t want to move away from it, because I think we need to respect the name that is on that dial.”
    — Federico Ziviani [17:47]

• On Innovation:

  • “This bracelet, we did over 55 iterations…You try it, it’s not right, you change again the architecture to make sure it was soft enough, but not too soft, not too rigid.”
    — Federico Ziviani [19:54]

• On Movement Excellence:

  • “Our movements are reliable…This reflects the original idea of Gerald. Again, if you come to the atelier here in Geneva, you can see that the slogan of Gerald Charles was ‘les artisans du maestro.’”
    — Federico Ziviani [21:38]

Memorable Final Moments

• Rob’s Closing:
  • “Federico, thank you so much for being a very easy guest to have on in the last shift of the day because you just, you ruled the mic. It was amazing. I loved it. Thank you so much for the effort.”
    — Rob Nudds [24:47]

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Brand Backstory & Genta Connection: [02:51–06:57]
• Brand Evolution & Digital Strategy: [06:57–11:24]
• Historical Cases & The Maestro: [13:30–14:19]
• Navigating Legacy & New Designs: [14:39–18:42]
• Master Link, Movement, & Technicals: [18:42–22:22]
• Relationship with Genta Foundation: [22:32–24:24]
• Wrap-Up & Final Impressions: [24:24–25:11]

Summary

This episode delivers a vivid portrait of Federico Ziviani and the Gerald Charles brand—one that balances reverence for Gérald Genta’s legacy with a twenty-first-century entrepreneurial spirit. Federico’s passion for watches, technological savvy, and ability to tell engaging, insightful stories make for a memorable and informative interview. The discussion provides rare behind-the-scenes access to the creative and operational philosophy of a brand at the intersection of artistry, legacy, and modernity.