The Real Time Show: Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Henrik Rye, Micromilspec

Date: September 6, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Henrik Rye, Micromilspec
Location: Glass igloo, Geneva Watch Days Pavilion

Episode Overview

This episode features a candid conversation with Henrik Rye, founder of Norwegian microbrand Micromilspec, recorded amid the sweltering heat of the glass igloo at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph discuss Micromilspec's rapid trajectory, the philosophy behind its lauded Millgraph watch, and the evolving atmosphere of Geneva Watch Days. The exchange is rich with industry insights, personal anecdotes, and honest reflections on brand growth, community, and the future of watch events.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The Origin Story: From Visitor to Exhibitor

• Henrik Rye’s Journey

  • Rye initially attended Geneva Watch Days in 2020, gathering insights and networking with industry players.
  • In just five years, Micromilspec transitioned from an observer to a sought-after exhibitor, known for military-spec tool watches at accessible prices.
  • Rye likens founding the brand to raising a child:

    "To me, it's like a baby, so I can just talk and talk and talk." (03:14)

• Milestone Achievements

  • Since its founding, Micromilspec has completed nearly 40 custom military projects, culminating in the Millgraph model—a distillation of best feedback and specs.
  • The Millgraph has become almost more recognizable than the brand itself.

    "We meet people who know the Millgraph, but have never heard of Micromilspec." (04:15)

The Millgraph Phenomenon

• Watch Development Ethos

  • Product design is guided almost entirely by feedback from military clients; the company is deliberately not named after Rye to put focus on the community.

    "What we really want to do is represent the people that we speak with every day, listen to their feedback, and bring that to the market." (06:57)

  • Practical design touches: destro (left-handed) crown for comfort during pushups, deep bezel indents for use with gloves, straightforward labeling ("hours/minutes/seconds") to suit users who dislike manuals. (08:23)

• Pricing and Competition

  • The Millgraph shocked the industry with its price point—about half what experts expected for a titanium La Joux-Perret chronograph with high-end finishing.

    "I reckon about 7,000, roughly... This time I messed up. It's half the price. That's preposterous." (06:05-06:11)

• Production Philosophy

  • Annual runs are limited (50 in 2024, 75 in 2025)—not because of artificial scarcity, but to preserve quality, service, and personal customer relationships.

    "All of the Millgraphs that we sold this year, they were sold before the release. Which means that we've spoken and had a personal interaction with 75 people. And we want to maintain that quality of service." (10:10)

• Collaborations and Variations

  • Recent collaborations include Black Badger (James Thompson), who brought a popular white dial and orange chapter ring variant. (09:22-09:30)

Team and Company Culture

• Lean and Skilled Staff

  • Micromilspec has a team of just six, with versatile members like Theo (ex-IWC communications), described as indispensable.

    "If we were to aggregate brands by team members and their abilities... you'd probably be in the top 10." (11:43)

• Intentionally Small

  • Rye sees no reason to expand the team, prioritizing quality and entertainment over scale.

    "Your biggest job is actually to entertain people, because they love watches." (12:54) "We got everything we need in-house, and that's more than enough." (13:31)

• Financial Perspective

  • Rye is candid about the financial realities—growth brings complexity and risk, and focusing on sustainable, organic progress is key.

    "When you come into the industry, it's cash flow and sales are not the same... Once you meet those basic needs and you know, be able to come here and meet you, the rest of the people here, it's just such an amazing experience." (14:29-15:37)

Geneva Watch Days Evolution and Community

• Event Growth

  • The fair has ballooned from 15 brands/3,000 visitors in 2020 to 66 brands/predicted 15,000 visitors in 2025.
  • Still, Geneva Watch Days retains a "Cannes Film Festival" informality, approachability, and cultural importance compared to trade fairs like Watches & Wonders.

    "This is like the Cannes Film Festival for watches. That's very different. It's informal." (16:48)

• Scaling Challenges and Opportunities

  • While more brands mean a wider offering for attendees, increased scale could strain both organizing teams and journalists.
  • Rye discusses efficient scheduling and press events (offering journalists pre-fair access) as a way to manage attention smartly. (21:02-21:27)

• Personal Experience and Preference

  • Rye values the event's soul and community and would rather grow meaningfully than rapidly.

    "If it expands, I think we will be able to include more companies, more type of brands... It's a small place... But our bandwidth is small." (16:48-18:17)

New Releases and Show Highlights

• World Timer Novelty

  • The episode ends with Rye presenting Micromilspec’s new World Timer, lauded for its tactile bezel and build quality.
  • Commentary on Justin Hast’s (journalist) authentic reaction to the watch’s feel.

    "Justin's got a great face... he made that sound and I was like, yeah, I know what that feels like." (22:17)

• Human Touch and Brand Philosophy

  • The hosts praise Micromilspec for its exclusivity, quality, and consistent direct engagement with enthusiasts.
  • Rye is commended for “doing things the right way” and positively contributing to the community.

    "That human touch that you're able to bring by being so tight and so lean as a team is something that everyone really appreciates." (22:57)

Notable Quotes & Moments

• Rob Nudds on Pricing Shock:

  "I reckon about 7,000, roughly... This time I messed up. It's half the price. That's preposterous." (06:05-06:11)

• Henrik Rye on Customer-Led Design:

  "We spoke to our customers, [asked], 'what do you want?'... The majority of the spec we worked a lot with the Special Forces..." (07:21)

• Henrik Rye on Team Philosophy:

  "If you're really honest, nobody needs what we do. Your biggest job is actually to entertain people because they love watches." (12:46-12:54)

• On Geneva Watch Days' Culture:

  "This is like the Cannes Film Festival for watches. That's very different. It's informal." (16:48)

• On Event Growth Management:

  "If it expands... it's a small place. Our bandwidth is small. In one way, it helps with more brands because you divide the crowd... that's a good thing for the people visiting." (16:48-18:17)

Timestamps for Major Segments

• 00:08 – 02:00: Setting the scene, remembering the first Geneva Watch Days, intro to Henrik and Micromilspec.
• 03:12 – 04:37: Rye’s first fair visit and inspiration to launch his brand.
• 04:37 – 08:20: The Millgraph's explosion in popularity; development process focused on military practicality.
• 09:12 – 10:50: Limited production philosophy, customer relationships, and maintaining a manageable business.
• 11:28 – 13:31: Discussion of the lean team culture, unique strengths, and the decision to stay small.
• 14:29 – 15:37: Financial realities of indie watchmaking.
• 15:37 – 18:17: The evolution and growing pains of Geneva Watch Days; scaling challenges.
• 21:02 – 21:49: Creative organizing, event scheduling, and media access strategies.
• 22:05 – 23:03: Introduction of the World Timer and praise for build quality/human touch.

Final Thoughts

This episode offers a compact yet profound look at what makes Micromilspec stand out—grounded leadership, an authentic connection to customers, craft-oriented scaling, and a genuine love for the community. Sessions like this, with open remarks about growth, values, and the evolving landscape of watchmaking events, embody the “real talk” The Real Time Show stands for.