Loading summary
Transcript60 lines
- [00:07]
A
Hi and hello, watch fans and welcome back to the glass igloo outside the pavilion of Geneva Watch Days 2025. I'm Rob Knotts, your funny neighbourhood watchmaker, joined by David Gaucher, our resident provocateur. And we are joined by Matthias Stotz of Tuttimer to say all the wonderful things that don't get said often enough about this excellent German brand based in Glasswater, not too far from where I live, of course. Matthias, welcome to the show.
- [00:32]
B
Yeah, welcome. So I'm very proud to be here and beautiful days here at Geneva for us as the brand and all for the collectors now.
- [00:40]
A
So for everybody that's been listening to every episode we've put out so far, and I guess we must be around 20 episodes now getting up towards that mark. We have commented on the temperature once or twice, but Matthias is the only man that's actually acclimatized to it, having prepared for Geneva watch days in the Cipher France. So thanks for putting in the hours and getting ready and wearing a jacket. Incredible. So tell us your story because you're quite new to the brand and tell us how you found yourself leading one of Germany's hidden gems.
- [01:07]
B
So I was born in a watchmaker family. I'm a fourth generation of watchmakers and they love to make watches, to create watches and to do them by myself, by my hands. During the last 15 years, I leading a brand in the Black Forest also to show and indicate a little bit more about watchmaking and story behind. And I jumped in Tutima in the beginning of this year. So I'm the new CEO since January 2025.
- [01:35]
A
And you were previously at Jungens?
- [01:37]
B
Yes, in previous days I made the strength of Jungens again. It was in the year 2011 where we celebrate our 100th anniversary. And so there was a great time there. But now I'm really happy to be at Glashutte, the eastern area of Germany. And of course it's hard to find watchmaking. So it's a little bit similar to the area here at Geneva and the Valle de Joux. So Glashutte in Germany is the place to be to do fine watchmaking.
- [02:12]
C
So we have complimented other people's watches in previous episodes, but completely seriously, without any insincerity. My favorite watch that I've seen on that entire floor is the Tempo Stop. So not only do we have that, I think we have what we would say in French. So a French expression would be une belle brochette, like literally a beautiful skewer of watches. So I am extremely excited to be able to share those with you. But before we do that, Geneva Watch Days is a celebration of watchmaking. But I think someone could be excused for thinking it's only Swiss watchmaking. German watchmaking is something that's very apart. So could you maybe explain what separates German watchmaking from Swiss watchmaking, and then how Tutima fits within that frame?
- [02:54]
B
Yeah. So I think, in general, all the watchmakers around the world have to focus the same situation. The watches became smaller and smaller step by step, and they have to be more accurate. But how it has to be done and what is the style of watchmaking, of course, is a little different. And Glashfutte was, in the past, was the center of German watchmaking and disappeared after the Second World War. And so Glashutte watchmaking has not a situation with the quartz crisis in the 70s. And when Germany was reunified together in 1991, this was a new time frame which is open for watchmaking. And, of course, it was very clear that watchmaking in Germany at Glashfooter should be taking place on the highest level. And I think the company most known for fine watchmaking in Germany is Langeon Sone. And if you're looking at Langeon Zehne, the aim of this brand was to compete with Patek in the beginning. So you have an understanding that watchmaking from Glashwitte should be done on the highest level. And I think all our watches from Tuttima, when we are starting going back to Glashfutte in the year 2008, was to make fine watchmaking. So in 2012, the first product was launched. So four years after the decision to go back to Glashutte, Tutima was the first brand to show a minute repeater on a wristwatch made by a watch brand in Germany. So that was the starting point for Tuttima. And it's very clear, like Lange and Sone explained, we want to compete. Patek Lange Tutima decided to start with a minute repeater. I think that's extraordinary as a new touch point for the brand.
- [04:45]
C
So I am highly impatient to get my hands on those watches. But I do have one more question, though. So you had said that Tutimo wants to go basically face to face with some of the finest watchmakers in the world. But you do have a very legitimate military pedigree. And so when you look at lines that you have, you have something like the M2, which is looks one way and is excellent, and then you have the tempo stop, among others, which looks another way and is also excellent. So how do you manage to do both things so well? Is it the same designers working on different lines? How do you separate that and keep levels of excellence among the two lines?
- [05:21]
B
That's a very good question. The first answer is I have. Luckily I have two wrists on one wrist. I can wear manufacturing watches like today, the novelty, the new patria on the other hand side I have the M2, which is really a professional tool watch. So I always have to. So the first thing I share the watch to you. And the tool watch is equipped with a lot of things inside. It's the titanium case, the bracelet, it's a sandblasted case without reflection. The pushers are inside, so there isn't. So it also protects the pilot when he wears the watch. The movement is inside, protected by an iron cage. We have a movement dial so that the movement will be not influenced by any magnetism.
- [06:09]
A
So did you say a moo metal dial?
- [06:11]
B
Yes.
- [06:11]
A
Oh wow. Moo metal. Finally someone's using it. You know, there's an excellent article by Jack Forster, I think on Substack where he talks about the, how should we say, the smoke and mirrors around the anti magnetic movement in the watch industry in the soft iron cage and a soft iron under dial and how it isn't really sufficient and how it isn't a Faraday cage at all and how the only way to really provide magnetic resistance is to use. So thanks for that. It came up in conversation earlier, of.
- [06:37]
B
Course and of course it was the requirements from the forces in these days and all these requirements had been put inside and there's an add on which is unique with the brand. We are doing of course at a manufacturer. We have our own in house movements like the tempo stop or the homage, the minute repeater. And here we have our own module. So it's based on the Swiss movement, it's a 7750 but we have our own in house developed and produced central minute repeater module on. So also here we speak about fine watchmaking and a lot of technology. So I think that's a little bit closer. But of course from the identity of the watch, it's a tool watch, it's a real professional for hard use. It's 500 meters, water resistant. And so it's a big, wide, widespread. I agree with you. So one hand side, the miniature Peter on the other hand watch of the NATO is really, really wide. So today we are focusing during the Geneva watch days on the new Patria models. And that's the reason why I brought only manufacturer movements with me to introduce today.
- [07:49]
C
Okay, so I think we have a minute repeaters. Let's maybe say that.
- [07:52]
A
David, your face is hilarious.
- [07:53]
C
No, I really, I really was when I said that. These are my favorite watches of the show. So let's start with whatever one that you want to start with and work our way up.
- [08:01]
B
I think we can start with the novelty. So I put it here. The first thing is the new patria. And of course we have a lot of experience with titanium and the sporty watches we use here. Titanium grade 5, first time in the Patriarch line. So it's very good to polish. It's a very durable, it's skin friendly material and it's popular more and more. Also this year I saw a lot of broche brands using more and more titanium. So we combine it and we reduce the diameter so it's 41 millimeters. But the lug to lug dimensions are very comfortable. And you put it on a small wrist, you can feel the watch feels like 40 or 39. And we have a good combination with this graphite gray dial and sheepskin leather strap which is very soft. So this time we are not made a combination of 80 carat gold and alligator straps. So this time we do it more modern, still elegant and very comfortable.
- [09:11]
C
One of the very few German words I know is wunderbach and that describes this one and I presume the ones we're going to see next.
- [09:19]
B
Yeah, so we have three different colors. So I personally that's my favorite. It's the gray one. It's the one I wear and I'm very happy. But if we are close to the Italian area, to southern countries, these people prefer more the brown and more light dials. So this is the next one. We have a silver dial and like a honey brown colored, very nice sheepskin leather strap. Inside we have our calibre 617 from Tutti Mar.
- [09:56]
A
So we can see from this caliber here that as the traditional German layout, the three quarter plate that's typical for.
- [10:03]
B
Ask me about the difference or the three quarter plate or is special for Glashutte watchmaking. And of course we have it in our movements. But we launched a new E magazine for the brand. I think we will give you the link to share. And if you look at our products, we put a picture on the patria inside. And this nice E magazine shows the view to the watch when we remove this three quarter plate. So that's very beautiful. And you can see all the left we put in the Details so I can pass my phone to you. And there you can see how fine we do the finish of the barrel. We have a really, really extraordinary stop for the balance to adjust the seconds exactly. We have our own gold chassis settings. We have the mirror cut in the wheels. So there are a lot of details. So please have a closer look to all these details and then you can understand how the watchmaking style of Tutti Master at Glaashutte. I think it's very important that you not only look on the dial on the case and the price, you also have to look how much real work from the people from the watchmaker is done. And we have a free sprung hairspring with a Breguet curve. We have our in house pellet fork. So we do a lot of things in house. And you can see if you jump directly in the movement.
- [11:43]
C
Okay, so working through the Belle Brochette, we have two down, three more to go.
- [11:48]
B
So the next one is the entry seat or nearly black edition. So it's a very nice contrast you have between the dials and the diamond cut index. And of course we use Super Luminova. It's a brilliant white color in the day. And if it's going dark, of course it reflects in a light blue color. So it's a little bit more modern. But this one is also a really, really nice, very smart. And we have the small second. We have 21600 beats per hour and the power reserve is 65 to 70 hours. So it's very comfortable. And if you wind up the watch, the feeling for a hand winding watch, it's extremely important that you have a good feeling. And the ratchet is going softly back in a long way. So if the watches wind up full, then you always have to go back to erase the strong power at the end of the winding process.
- [12:52]
A
I see this, this is like a.
- [12:55]
B
That's not only a small part which rotates, it's a very complicated assortment of parts working together to. To generate this, this good sliding back function.
- [13:09]
C
I can confirm it feels wunderbar as well. That's good.
- [13:14]
B
So your favorite is the. The tempo stop.
- [13:18]
C
Let's bring it on.
- [13:18]
B
So coming back to your question, how you combine the pilot watches together with the manufacturing watches. If you're looking Back to the 1940s, Junghan sorry. Tutima was delivering thousands of chronographs with the movement 59 that was an original glass shooter chronograph movement. And in the year 2019, we presented the new chronograph 659 from Tuttima. So it's a Flyback chronograph or Returren Vol. So we call it in Germany, we call it Tempo Stop. So you can start, you can stop, but you also can. If you push on start, you can directly make a reset and the watch can indicate directly immediately, without any pose, you can directly make a new start. So it's beautiful finish. We use our skills in house. We have the same situation as the ratchet. We have the same Breguet hairspring. And if you can see the finish, I think we have not too. We are not behind any other watch brands in finishing. You can have a closer look.
- [14:39]
C
Yeah, if. Look, maybe you've just heard of two Tima by name and yeah, maybe it's easy to think that because the brands are in front of me. I'm saying this, but this really was. When you like a watch, you just get a feeling. I got a feeling and I now get to hold it outside of the case and it's even better. It just. My expectations are even increased even farther.
- [14:59]
A
So it's reassuringly heavy to go from.
- [15:03]
C
Those previous three which were time only to go to the Tempo Stop. There is a clear difference in weight.
- [15:08]
A
Yeah, we had grade five titanium versus what is it, 18 karat gold.
- [15:12]
B
That's 80 karat gold. And this, the diameter is 43 millimeters. So it's a little bit bigger. And of course it use a more heavy material.
- [15:20]
A
The engraving on the balance cock is also gorgeous. It's a cursive Tutima. I don't know if you can see that on the screen there, but really is beautiful. Attention to detail is top notch.
- [15:29]
C
And we're going to finish. Don't pardon the pun, because I'm making it totally on purpose. We're going to finish on a high note, I think with the minute repeater, right?
- [15:38]
B
Yes. So it's called homage. And homage is of course because it's homage to the founder. And the founder of Tutima was the same guy who founded Urufa and Ufac. And Dr. Kurtz selected all the best movements and saved it for Tutima. And so Tutima was getting this name because it's coming from the Latin words Tutus tuttissima. And it means it's safe, it's protected. And today of course you can see the cases are very strong. The watches all of are having a good durability. We always taking care for the highest quality levels. And when we make this minute repeater, we take care that the sound of the watch really is very, very good. And it's not too fast today. There are some more minute repeaters on the market, but we also can give the sound to you and I will set up a good time and then you can hear and it's slowly enough that you really can enjoy it and that you can easily count it.
- [16:54]
A
Okay, so I am going to hand this one back to you. I've given it a good wind so you can select your preferred time and then give us the chimes. Question, is this 18,000 operating frequency?
- [17:07]
B
No, not. It's 21600.
- [17:09]
A
It's beautiful. And it's screw balance. So variable inertia. Very nice. That ratchet. The spring on the click is incredible. I need to show this off. Sorry, that's the open case back. I forgot I was on a podcast for a moment, then I thought I was in a boutique. I'm about to buy a watch. How much is this one?
- [17:27]
B
So it's a little bit below than 200€000.
- [17:30]
A
Okay. Better not drop it then.
- [17:33]
B
I have to take it back. Of course.
- [17:35]
A
Really?
- [17:36]
B
Yes.
- [17:37]
A
What a shame.
- [17:38]
B
But I wish you a good time without a watch.
- [17:40]
C
So while you're. While you're setting the time and you're gonna send us off on that high note, I really. So.
- [17:46]
B
So I think if it's a minute repeater, you have to hear the hours, you have to hear exactly the. The quarters and of course you need to hear the minutes. So I put it here in front of the. The mic. I hope you can.
- [18:26]
A
Beautiful.
- [18:39]
B
You got it?
- [18:40]
A
Got it. Yeah.
- [18:41]
B
That's a little bit noisy here.
- [18:43]
A
Yeah, well, it's. It came through pretty clear. And what a thing, what a piece.
- [18:47]
B
So it was specially developed with the Fraunhofer Institute to make the sound different than in the past. I think you really can relax if you spend so much money on a watch. Of course, it must be a pleasure to look at it. So I think always every look on the watch on the backside should be really enjoying you. And if you hear it. Exactly the same.
- [19:13]
A
Yeah, I mean it's. It speaks of an incredibly high quality and great standards. All of the watches are fantastic ambassadors for the brand and the work that you're doing out of Glasseter. Once again, I've walked past the factory hundreds of times and I always looked through the window, wondering why I've never been inside. So I'll have to arrange a visit sometime soon because it would be great to see the work taking place in Tutima's hometown. Matthias, thank you so much for your time.
- [19:40]
B
Yes. So you're warmly welcome. And so at the moment we are at the extension building, so it will be finished next year. And of course, we are in front of our 100th anniversary in 2027 and looking forward to your visit. You're always welcome. Take a closer look to German finest watchmaking at Glassfitte at Tutti ma Glassvite. Thanks.
- [20:03]
A
Couldn't say it any better myself. Please join us again in, well, let's see, 29 minutes for more coverage from Geneva. Watch Dav SA.
- [20:36]
B
IT.