Podcast Summary: The Real Time Show

Episode: Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Matthieu Haverlan, Ulysse Nardin

Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds (B), Alon Ben Joseph (C)
Guest: Matthieu Haverlan (A), Managing Director at Ulysse Nardin

Episode Overview

This episode, recorded live from Geneva Watch Days 2025, features an in-depth discussion with Matthieu Haverlan of Ulysse Nardin (UN). The focus is on UN’s latest groundbreaking release—the Freak X Crystallium—and how the brand continues to push boundaries in watchmaking through material innovation, pioneering technology, and a philosophy rooted in inspiring innovation across the industry. Alongside technical details, the conversation touches on brand history, industry influence, value perception, and the future trajectory for Ulysse Nardin.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Introduction to the Freak X Crystallium

• [00:37] Matthieu introduces the Freekex Crystallion:
  • This year’s centerpiece, the Freak X Crystallium, is described as a technical and aesthetic marvel.
  • The Freak X line, originally launched in 2019, marked a shift from single products to a collection.
  • The Crystallium edition uses a proprietary ruthenium-based, vapor-crystallized material, which is 10 times rarer and more expensive than platinum.
  • Crafting the dials is so difficult that only 50 will be made due to production challenges and costs.
  • The dials feature a rose gold PVD coating and a black translucent varnish for a distinctive fume/ombre effect.
  • Quote: "At its core, Crystallium is Ruthenium. So it's the same metal family as platinum, although it's 10 times rarer than platinum and obviously more expensive. And we go through quite a long, it's almost a week, process of vapor crystallization of the Ruthenium." — Matthieu [01:41]
  • Host Reaction: "The fume effect is absolutely incredible... It's even better in real life than on camera.” — Rob [03:11]

2. UN’s Drive for Innovation & Brand Mission

• [03:45] Mathieu describes UN’s long-standing ethos of innovation:
  • The brand's mission is to "inspire innovation and foster human ambition."
  • Historical context: UN’s legacy in marine chronometry, driven by solving real-world navigation challenges.
  • Quotes UN forebear Paul David Nardin: "If it's possible, it's done. If it's impossible, it will be done."
  • Every new product must contribute progress—via craftsmanship, mechanics, or technology.
  • Quote: "We really believe that real progress happens when you explore beyond what's possible.” — Matthieu [04:36]
  • Cites the "grinder" winding mechanism and silicon technology as UN breakthroughs now influencing the wider industry.
  • The innovative use of new materials, such as silicon marquetry, and unique collaborations.

3. Silicon Technology and Industry Sharing

• [07:28] Host Rob poses questions about technology’s future:

  • Discusses if silicon and other advances will truly be adopted widely once patents expire.
  • Raises the philosophical question: Is “better” always truly better in watchmaking? Is ultimate accuracy or technical supremacy what collectors care about?
  • "A quartz watch keeps better time than any of the watches we're wearing. But that's not why we're here. We're here for innovation, for beauty, for craft." — Rob [08:54]

• [09:34] Matthieu responds on silicon's wider impact:

  • The early focus on life-or-death utility gave way to the current era where luxury and inspiration are central.
  • Explains the technical advantages: increased magnetism resistance, robustness, and longevity.
  • UN’s Silicon Lab (Sigatech) is a major supplier—95% of silicon components go to other watch brands.
  • UN’s enamel dial workshops produce thousands of high-end dials for the industry, though UN keeps a low profile about these partnerships.
  • Quote: "95% of the output is for UN. 95 is... Many, many, many watch brands that are our clients..." — Matthieu [13:26]

4. Brand Philosophy, Collaborations & Viral Success

• [14:30] On sharing UN’s broader impact and values:
  • Matthieu discusses their restraint in publicizing outsourced high-end components—a core value.
  • Example: collaboration with pastry chef Amaury Guichon, who created a viral chocolate version of the Freak, seen visualized over 330 million times.
  • Memorable moment: The hosts joke about how often the video was shared with them.
    "I have been forwarded that video over a hundred times by my friends, my family..." — Alon [15:30]
  • The chocolate Freak is kept in a climate-controlled “hall of fame” in Guichon’s Las Vegas workshop.

5. Balancing Heritage with Future Innovations

• [17:03] Alon queries whether UN’s push for high-tech innovation is replacing traditional watchmaking:
  • UN plans to maintain a balance between being contemporary and classic while never becoming “just another” classic brand.
  • Major product roadmap set through 2031, aiming for distinctive design while respecting UN DNA.
  • Example of internal discipline: UN canceled the launch of a new Marine with an integrated bracelet because it didn’t feel uniquely “UN enough,” despite sunk costs.
  • Quote: "Was the product bad? No. But the product was not UN enough. It was too conventional. So it cost us a few hundreds of thousands of franc gone..." — Matthieu [18:57]

6. Value for Money and Market Positioning

• [20:43] Alon highlights the double-edged sword of innovation:
  • While UN’s hyper horology comes at a price point, entry-level pieces (calibers, Marine, Diver) offer strong value for money.
  • Matthieu reflects on the challenge: focusing heavily on the Freak line built collection cachet, but some collectors may underappreciate UN’s broader, more accessible offerings.
  • Entry pricing is set to rise for brand consistency—future entry point likely around CHF 13,000-14,000.
  • UN’s business model focuses on low-volume, high-value, unique products.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the mission of innovation:
  "We want to innovate with a purpose. Not just to innovate just for the sake of innovating. And we want to innovate to inspire, because through the product, we want to inspire beyond watches, inspire people to be better themselves, to push boundaries in their own category..." — Matthieu [11:51]

• On discretion in industry partnerships:
  "It's not the values of the brand, obviously... I don't want to be bragging about that. It's an independent workshop that is owned 100% by Ulysse Nardin. We make some of the best enamel dials in the world. And, yes, again... We make a thousand enamel dials a year. About 100 for UN, 900... Where do you think that goes?" — Matthieu [13:26]

• On the viral chocolate Freak:
  "The video of him building that massive Freak in chocolate has been seen, I think, 330 million times. About 160 million people. So basically you've got 1.8% of the global population that have seen the Freak video." — Matthieu [15:21]

• On the future direction:
  "We are a sporty and contemporary haute horlogerie brand... If we want to embody that spirit of being a pioneer, doing things differently and thinking differently, we can't have a me too product." — Matthieu [18:25]

• On tough calls to maintain brand integrity:
  "We took the decision to cancel that product. Was the product bad? No. But the product was not UN enough. It was too conventional... ultimately we're going to launch that product in 2027 and that product is going to be amazing and it will be very UN." — Matthieu [18:57]

Important Timestamps for Key Segments

• [00:37] — Introduction to Freak X Crystallium and technical details
• [03:45] — Brand’s philosophy and the imperative of innovation
• [07:28] — Discussion on silicon technology and its future post-patent
• [09:34] — UN’s silicon lab, industry impact and collaborations
• [14:30] — Brand values: discretion, collaboration with Amaury Guichon, viral chocolate Freak story
• [17:03] — Balancing classic heritage and future product strategy
• [20:43] — The double-edged sword of innovation, value, and pricing structure

Episode Tone & Language

The conversation is candid, good-humored, and philosophical, with all speakers displaying both deep technical understanding and appreciation for artistry. Matthieu Haverlan is passionate and precise, often referencing UN’s legacy, innovations, and the thought process behind hard decisions. The hosts foster an engaging, informal but deeply informed discussion, seamlessly moving between technical details, philosophy, and anecdotes.

Summary prepared for listeners seeking an in-depth yet accessible understanding of Ulysse Nardin’s latest breakthroughs and future outlook, as well as the philosophy driving one of Swiss watchmaking’s most innovative brands.