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- [00:00]
A
Foreign.
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B
Watch fans and welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds. Today I am joined by Alon Ben Joseph, of course, and our good friend from Alpena, Oliver Van Landschot Hubrecht, in a warm glass onion outside the pavilion at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Oliver, welcome to the studio. Thanks for braving the sun.
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A
Well, thank you very much, Rob and Alon. It's an honor to be here with you under the sun. Not expected today, but here we are. Exciting Geneva Watch Days.
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B
It is exciting. It's exciting for us as well. And we have not seen anywhere near as many watches as we hope to over the coming days. But what is it that you have been working on as the leader of Alpina?
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A
Okay, so we've been building on the extreme case design and we're super proud and happy to launch two new variations of the Seastrong Extreme. So our Diver's watch in 39 millimeters. Yeah, two beautiful dials to be discovered here at Geneva Watch Days.
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C
We had your colleague Nils Echeding. Here they are exhibiting with Frederick Constant at Beau Rivage. I assume Alpina as well.
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A
Yes. Correct. Yes. So we all obviously have the watches here under the tent here at the Roton du du Mont Blanc, but we have our suite at the Borivage where we're welcoming people from around the world, representing press and retail.
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C
So, yeah, exciting times are Consumers welcome as well as at Frederic Constant for Alpina to walk in and try the watches.
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A
Absolutely. So I encourage you to come take the opportunity. This is the beauty of Geneva Watch Days. It's open, it's friendly. We, we're here to meet all of you. Right. So please do come and see us. Fifth floor, room 525.
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C
Take the elevator, guys. Run. And the TRTS community members, if you show that you're part of the WhatsApp community, will Oliver show them something special?
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B
I think he might have something for our good followers which we're not going to reveal reveal today, but we will talk about it at least obliquely. And if the eagle died amongst you, watching Oliver's wrist like a hawk, then you might have seen something very special already. But just a note on the Beau Rivage in case anyone is in town and you want to come down and visit. Don't be surprised when you walk in there if it looks very, very different from the last time you visited because it's under renovation and it's a renovation I believe is going to take about two years. Oliver, have you heard anything else?
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A
Yeah, indeed. So it's half wrapped up from the external side in any case, and a little bit different inside. So it's. Yeah, it probably needs it also. So we. We're doing. We're doing with it, but all the rooms are beautiful and displays are nice. So, yeah, please, please come.
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C
And I popped in yesterday to Bo Rivage, and the moment you pass the whole way and take the elevator, everything feels the same. So as Rob said, don't get disencouraged.
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A
No.
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C
By the outside, just walk in. It's open and friendly. Cool ambiance. What I wanted to ask you, Oliver, I was very excited about what you guys launched at Watches and Wonders, especially the Heritage pieces also. How did they perform now, six months down the line for you guys?
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A
Very well. So the Heritage side always has a lot of attractivity, I think, really, amongst the passionate watch collectors, aficionados and so on. We've got such a beautiful story to tell with Alpina, and we managed to tell it through the watch launches and the Heritage collection that we have. We came with a Tropic Proof, which has a beautiful story and period in the 1960s. So it was great to present it to you at Watches and Wonders, but now it's beautiful to see it also, you know, getting out of the stores and selling out nicely. So I think we have something special there. Amazing.
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B
That is definitely a model that people should see in hand because it's. It's one that. It looks very, very different. That whole collection looks very, very different on the screen than it does on the wrist. And I think, like, especially with the lugs, you got to try it on. And this is why I was bringing up the Beau Rivage renovations, by the way, because you're on the fifth floor. Room 525.
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A
Yes.
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B
There's something that people should know about the fifth floor. There's no stairs to it, right?
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A
If you say so. I didn't know.
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B
Hence, I said, take the elevator, take the elevator. It wasn't just advice, it was necessity. I'm pretty sure that the fifth and sixth floors accessible for visitors via the elevator. You can get up to the fourth floor if you're just milling around, but.
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A
If you don't see stairs, then just.
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B
Don'T panic, don't worry. But it's definitely worth taking the lift because that is definitely something we like to see. Oliver, what are your general impressions on Geneva watch days this year? Because, you know, we've heard a lot that it's a pivotal fair for the Organization which is now in its sixth year. And when it parachuted in to watchmaking back in 2020, I suppose it was after Covid, wasn't it was the first thing after Covid. It kind of saved the industry and it was like a. A wonderful breath of fresh air, very intimate, very relaxed, a totally different vibe, especially for journalists who appreciate the fact that everything is very closely grouped together here. But what do you think is happening behind the scenes? Is it moving in the right direction? Are you excited to be here? As excited as you ever were. And can you project what's going to happen to the fair in the future?
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A
Yeah. So I think obviously you told a little bit about the history there. It's growing again, this. So I had 66 brands versus a little over 50 last year. So we're really seeing a huge diversity of brands there. It's obviously halfway between Watches and Wonders, two Watches and Wonders editions. So I see a bright future for it. Personally, I love the fair because it's indeed, it's very open, it attracts lots of people. The idea behind it is also to give a lot of flexibility to the brand so you can really find your way. Whether it's just being represented here under the tent, whether it's having a suite, whether it's using a boutique, whether it's having the chance of having a manufacture as we do here in Geneva, I see it very positively and I can only see it continue to grow.
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B
You know, if any visitors to Geneva during this week, or maybe throughout the year might be simpler, want to visit the Alpina manufacture, How do they do that? Can they?
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A
Absolutely. So this is also, I'd say one interesting aspect of Alpina is that we're very open. We've got the manufacture here in Geneva, in Planliwatte. We have what we call our museum experience into which we really show the manufacturing process as its whole, what we're doing. But then a very nice part of it which is dedicated to the Alpina heritage, showing many interesting pieces, really showing all the innovation and all the history behind the Alpina watchmaking Union, founded in 1883. So you're very welcome to come. Reservation is recommended. But yeah, please come and visit us. I think a unique opportunity to do, especially for the real time, the TRTS community. Right.
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C
I have been and it is highly recommended. I've seen quite some museums, musea and factories. It's not far from here. You said Oliver just now, recommended if people have a stopover at the airport or decide last minute they want to come, could they come? Do they need to ring up the Frederic Constant Group office in plan.
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A
Yes. Yeah. So I would really indeed give a quick call to our reception just to make sure that there's somebody there and a slot available to welcome you, as we tend to welcome, obviously, visitors from around the world. So to be able to welcome you in the best conditions possible, because some.
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C
Some brands only offer few slots on one day a week, people, you guys welcome Monday through Friday.
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Yes.
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B
Yeah, yeah.
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C
So there are a lot of slots available. So don't, don't be scared.
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A
Yeah, exactly. Just give us a quick call. We're reactive. We're. We're open and flexible. So, yeah, please do.
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C
So people that are here until Sunday and they might stay over, they might get lucky on Monday, the 8th of September.
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A
Absolutely.
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C
Okay.
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B
You know, I'm not an expert in Geneva tram networks, but if memory serves, it's very easy to get to, isn't it? You just take the 15 in the direction of Ziplo, outside Cornar Van, and that will take you pretty much all the way to Plan La Zouard.
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A
Correct. Yeah. So we have a new tram line that has been inaugurated two years ago now, two, three years ago, with the development of Planet, which has really grown over the years with the new Espace Tourbillon and so on. So very easy to get there directly from the train station. You hop in the 15 and it takes you probably a little over 20, 20, 25 minutes to get there.
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B
It is a fantastic facility as well. It's enormous, isn't it, really? Like everything that's going on there is. If you're a fan of watchmaking, it's one of the places you really do have to visit at some point in your life.
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C
And Patek Philippe is literally next door.
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A
Yeah. So we're surrounded by very nice watch brands around us, including Patek Philippe.
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B
Yeah.
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A
So we're really probably two to 300 meters away. Yeah.
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B
That's the kind of heritage you want in good company. Well, Patek's in good company as well, of course, because Alpina's got a long and storied history. But let's talk about the future now. What is coming on the horizon?
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A
Right. So many exciting things, of course. Right. So with Alpina, we always have these two angles. Obviously, the heritage site that we like to develop, we have our extreme case design that we're further developing. Indeed, some interesting and exciting things to come in terms of collaborations. Right. Alon and Rob. So once again, please come and see me and Bolivage and you might have a glimpse of Something interesting. Obviously, we have our four pillars, our four collections. So we've been focusing quite a lot on the extreme case design. Obviously, we're going to be working also more on some of the other collections in the future. So you can expect some exciting elements coming in the pilot area and the star timer collection. So that deserves attention. And we have some very exciting things to come. Obviously, we have our C strung presentation that is taking place right now. Geneva Watch Days. We've reworked the dials with a matte grain dial, vintage Luminova on it. Looks super nice. But again, trying to stay also faithful to what we're doing. We don't have too many references in the collection. We have about 50 references. We don't want to go much over that. We want to give time to our products, you know, to live, to breathe, to get recognized, to get out there. So we were taking it, let's say, having a steady pace, you know, in an exciting way, but trying to do things, you know, one after another.
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B
Next, I personally find it really refreshing when a brand has got a nice tight collection with not too many references polluting a catalog. You know, we sometimes see people. It's a viable strategy, but it's not the preferred strategy for me, where they just throw a lot of stuff out there and see what sticks. And, you know, if they're big enough, they can sustain a lot of dead weight for a long period of time. But one reason why some brands have huge numbers of references in their collection is because different styles of watches appeal to different parts of the world. So what's that like for you, Alpina, as part of citizen group with a global presence? Absolutely massive, massive player in markets like the US and in the Far East. So do you see a massive differentiation between what people in the west buy versus what people in the east buy, or is it pretty much homogenous across the board?
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A
No, you're absolutely right. So, I mean, we are selling our watches or distributing our watches in 53 countries. Obviously, you've got some very different cultures, different styles, different, let's say, the desirability for different products. So first of all, I think the case size is one very important one. So you can have large case sizes that are very popular in the U.S. for example, or in Eastern Europe, much smaller in some countries like France, but then also going through to Asia. So the interesting thing is that already now in the extreme collection, we've got 34, 39, 41 millimeters, and you can expect some further case sizes over there. And then obviously we try to do some specials for different markets, try to listen also to what markets want. We try to limit that as much as possible to keep coherence also within the collection. So it's sort of an interesting balance between listening and doing the right thing for the market, but keeping coherence within the collection across the board and internationally.
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B
What size is the watch on your wrist right now?
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A
39 millimeter. It's actually a cushion case, so we would say it's a 39. It looks a little bit bigger because depending where you measure. So if you look at the diagonal of the cushion case, you're at 40.5 millimeters. Okay. So it's really an interesting fit on the wrist, I must say.
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B
It's a great size though, because, I mean you. I just guess your wrist is about 17 and a half ish.
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A
Yeah, yeah, exactly. I don't have a small, small wrist either, so I guess it fits super nicely.
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B
Yeah, it's. It looks great for me.
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A
It's definitely the right, the right size.
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C
It is for me. I can't wait to strap mine on.
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B
So talk to us about the extreme case itself because you've referenced it many times. But for people that aren't acquainted with Alpina, what's so special about it?
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A
Okay, so it was a case that was first developed by Alpina in 2005. At the time, it was a much bigger case design. It was 48 millimeters. It was at the period, you know, where larger cases were popular and in demand. We fully redesigned it back in 2022. What's interesting here is that it's a four layer case design. It's a cushion case. Every layer is manufactured independently with a different type of finishing, which gives it at the end, you know, a very sophisticated and let's say high end feel to it here. It's obviously a diver's watch. So we've got a ceramic bezel as a top layer, but then you've got, as a bezel, the top layer is circular brushed. Then you've got the middle layer that's polished, the back case that's satinated. And, and when you assemble it, it gives this sophistication to it, which is super nice on the Alpiner watch. So this has a fixed bezel, has a thicker vertical brush to it, which gives it the whole beauty to it and gives it a special shine to it. I mean, you can look at it here with the sun now in the tent. It looks super nice. Also you have the bracelet version with it. So really an integrated bracelet. I think it looks Looks amazing. And it's a very unique, I think, design which also brings uniqueness to the. To the Alpina brand. A reason why we have also been investing and developing within that. That case design.
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B
It's really nice to see those refinements being made over years. You know, this case has become so much more wearable in so many ways. And it's just a great everyday piece because it's elegant as well as robust. It's. And the addition of a ceramic bezel insert was, I think, just a brilliant choice because it adds depth and a little bit of gloss to those raised numerals, which, I mean, it's. It's a lovely, lovely thing to look at, that's for sure. So we're gonna wrap up the show at that point and get outside for some fresh air. You'll hear me saying that a lot over the next next few episodes, because we've. We've really submitted ourselves to a trial here in this. In this glass onion, haven't we, Oliver? What does the rest of the day hold in store for you?
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A
Wow. So it's a packed day, which is why we're here. Right. So it's really presenting our timepieces mostly to press coming from around the world, but then it's also taking the time with the impromptu visitors coming to meet. Meet new people, but also, first of all, have a good time and spend time together around our common passion, which is watchmaking. Right.
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B
Well, I hope we get to have a celebratory drink together in the pavilion this evening. Thank you to everybody for listening. Thank you for tuning in. Please, like, share, comment, and subscribe, and we'll see you soon.
- [17:35]
A
Thank you all. Thank you.