The Real Time Show

Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Patrik Hoffmann, Favre Leuba

Hosts: Rob Nudds (A), Alon Ben Joseph (C)
Guest: Patrik Hoffmann, CEO, Favre Leuba
Recorded: September 6, 2025

Episode Overview

This episode of The Real Time Show features a candid conversation with Patrik Hoffmann, the CEO of Favre Leuba, recorded live at Geneva Watch Days 2025. Hoffmann, known for his long-standing career in watchmaking, discusses the challenges and triumphs of relaunching one of Switzerland’s oldest brands, the importance of community and authenticity in modern watchmaking, and the intricacies behind Favre Leuba’s new skeleton sports watch—a highlight of this year’s fair.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Favre Leuba Relaunch Journey

• Relaunch History: The brand was successfully relaunched at Geneva Watch Days 2024 after several prior attempts post-Quartz crisis ([00:41]).
  • Quote:
    “We relaunched the brand during Geneva Watch Days last year... I’m always thankful for the Geneva Watch Days organization that they helped us to, gave us that platform, an international platform here in Geneva to launch the brand.” — Patrik Hoffmann [00:41]
• Delivery Delays & Trade Challenges: First watches only began deliveries in February/March 2025, affected by typical industry delays. The brand is progressing unevenly across different markets but is focused on consistent product evolution ([00:41]-[01:49]).
• Learning From Past Relaunches: The new direction purposefully skips errors from previous attempts, aiming to resume Favre Leuba’s legacy as if uninterrupted since the Quartz crisis.
  • Emphasis: Move away from instrument-only designs; focus on wearable, historically-rooted timepieces fitting current market demands ([02:19]-[04:39]).
  • Sustainability and the “new vintage” trend are at the core of the current brand vision ([02:19]).

2. Business Strategy and Market Position

• Product Range & Ambition: Launched with 22 SKUs and four movements to avoid being pigeonholed as niche, targeting mass commercial viability ([05:10]-[06:02]).
  • “We wanted to make it clear to the world we are not a niche brand. We are a commercially driven brand... already now at a production pace of 8,000 pieces per year.” — Patrik Hoffmann [05:10]
• Traditional Distribution with Modern Touch: Mixed business model (distributors, agents, retailers, and direct B2C), aiming for high production (80-100K watches annually in 10-12 years) ([06:02]).
• Crisis Management: Acknowledges turbulence in global markets and adapts plans accordingly—reiterating the importance of finances, distribution, and key markets ([06:02]-[06:16]).

3. The New Skeleton Sports Watch—Design and Philosophy

• Why a Skeleton Watch? Following their first-ever tourbillon, Favre Leuba introduces a skeleton model—both brand firsts ([06:48]).
  • Targeted as a commercial product but with fine, detailed development (“drove [the movement manufacturer] AMT nuts”) ([07:15]).
  • Seven SKUs with color options (green, black, blue, gold/black movements), surprising strong reception in all variants ([08:24]).
  • “We go so much into the details... Not only the skeletonizing, but also with the dial. The outcome is fantastic. And it’s not boring.” — Patrik Hoffmann [07:15]
• Design Details:
  • Emphasis on wearability, technical beauty, and strong visual identity (hourglass logo integrated into bridge designs and escapement).
  • Movement finishing innovatively handled within a tight price point: refused perlage (considering it old-fashioned), opted for “12 to 6 brushing” for a modern look ([08:57]).
  • Prioritized automatic movement skeletonization—a complex, costly feature for this price segment ([08:57]-[11:46]).
• Accessibility & Readability:
  • Strong focus on making the skeleton watch easy to read, drawing from Hoffmann’s earliest industry lessons:
    • "'You might have the eyesight, but we have the money. I never forgot that. You have to be able to read the time.'" — Patrik Hoffmann, quoting his mentor [12:10]

4. Balancing Quality, Value & Brand Legacy

• Price-Quality Balancing: Exceptional mechanical finishing and impact at an entry-level luxury price point (CHF 3,450–3,550) ([13:06]).
  • Hosts marvel at the ambition and execution:
    • “You deliver a product that is of exceptional quality for an exceptionally affordable price.” — Rob Nudds [13:06]
• Brand Value Through Product and Community: Branding is crucial for initial sales, but excellent, differentiating product will build loyalty and repeat purchases ([13:06]-[14:37]).
  • “You are a guy that understands product, and you know that branding will get the first sale, product will get you the second, third, fourth, fifth.” — Rob Nudds [13:06]

5. Communication, Community, and the Way Forward

• Global Presence and Community Focus:
  • Favre Leuba is emphasizing community building—direct end-consumer engagement, physical presence at events (Geneva, Dubai, Dusseldorf), and slow, authentic brand growth over “making noise” through big ad budgets ([15:34]).
  • “You have to be attached with the end consumers. I think that it can put into one word, community, community building.” — Patrik Hoffmann [15:34]
  • “Sustainable, scalable. We always have to have that in our mind.” — Patrik Hoffmann [16:49]
• Event Evolution & Globalization Needs:
  • Praises Geneva Watch Days as a supportive platform but observes the need for more international (esp. US & German) representation ([17:15]):
    • “I think what has to happen is they have to make sure that people will come more from all over the world… I would like to see it a bit more global again.” — Patrik Hoffmann [17:15]

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the Relentless Nature of Relaunches:
  “I said, always, let’s not do that. Let’s start a new brand. No, I don’t want to do that anymore. I think it’s maybe suicidal. And then the name Favre Leuba came up… I jumped on it because I knew we can do something. Why? 288 years of history.” — Patrik Hoffmann [02:19]

• On Watch Philosophy:
  “For me, I don’t like the word watch, by the way. For me, it’s a timepiece… I like actually to talk even about the timepiece as an instrument, and that’s what it is at the end.” — Patrik Hoffmann [12:10]

• On Community Over Hype:
  “If you cannot go out with a lot of money just to make a lot of noise, it will take time… In the long term, it’s sustainable.” — Patrik Hoffmann [15:34]-[16:49]

• On Design and Practicality:
  “Designers…they sometimes forget that you also have to read the time…’You might have the eyesight, but we have the money.’ I never forgot that.” — Patrik Hoffmann, recounting advice from a mentor [12:10]

• Host’s Admiration for Product-First Strategy:
  “You want to come with a fully realized concept, not just like ‘test the water.’ And I believe the product is there.” — Rob Nudds [14:37]

• On Experiencing Watches In Person:
  “The problem with the cushion shape is the picture never does it the credit. You have to put it on your wrist.” — Patrik Hoffmann [18:30]

Important Timestamps

• 00:41 — Favre Leuba’s relaunch after multiple attempts; value of Geneva Watch Days platform
• 02:19 — Rationale for relaunch; what sets the current approach apart; “new vintage” trend
• 05:10 — Ambitious business model, broad SKU launch, production numbers
• 06:48 — Introduction of the skeleton watch; details behind design decisions
• 08:57 — Technical aspects of skeletonization, finishing choices, price point challenges
• 12:10 — Philosophy of timepieces vs. watches, readability, early industry lessons
• 13:06 — Discussion of balancing finish, value, and brand building
• 15:34 — Community building, long-term brand and business outlook
• 17:15 — Global reach of Geneva Watch Days and need for broader participation
• 18:30 — Visual impact of the new watch—encouragement to try in person

Conclusion

This energetic conversation charts Favre Leuba’s rebirth from myriad past struggles to a vibrant new phase, balancing heritage, wearability, modern taste, and smart commercial ambition. Patrik Hoffmann emphasizes product integrity, community connection, and sustainable growth—underscored by the technical and visual triumph of their first skeleton sports watch. The episode is a must-listen for anyone interested in watchmaking’s present and future, authentic leadership, and the behind-the-scenes realities of relaunching a grand old name.