The Real Time Show — Geneva Watch Days 2025: Philippe Belais of Claude Meylan

Date: September 7, 2025
Host(s): Rob Nudds (A), Alon Ben Joseph (B)
Guest: Philippe Belais (C), CEO and Owner of Claude Meylan

Episode Overview

In the final Geneva Watch Days 2025 episode from the Glass Igloo, Rob and Alon sit down with Philippe Belais, the passionate CEO of independent Swiss watch brand Claude Meylan, to discuss the brand's rich heritage, its place in contemporary watchmaking, the changing landscape of international watch retail, and the unique appeal of skeletonized watches. The conversation meanders through brand history, industry challenges, adapting to post-Covid realities, and what the future may hold for both Claude Meylan and the wider world of horology.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Claude Meylan: Roots and Heritage

• Connection to Swiss Watchmaking (01:08–02:42)

  • Philippe highlights the brand’s deep ties to Vallée de Joux, one of the cradles of high horology:

    “Melan is a large branch, but it’s one of the four families that founded high horology in the Vallée de Joux in 1680-something...” (01:18, C)

  • Shares a historical anecdote about French families bringing watchmaking to Switzerland during the religious wars, and how harsh winters led to the development of horological skills.

• Tonneau and Tortue Case Design (01:08–01:40)

  • Clarifies the distinction between tonneau and tortue watch cases and connects Claude Meylan's modern designs with historical shapes.

2. Geneva Watch Days—A Changing Fair

• Evolving Atmosphere (02:57–05:07)

  • Philippe appreciates the show's increasingly international and collector-centric crowd:

    “We feel there was more traffic, especially from a crowd that we didn’t see as much the previous year.” (02:57, C)

  • Praises the event’s open and friendly nature, distinguishing it from more commercial, less intimate fairs.

• Cultural vs. Commercial Focus (03:37–05:07)

  • Host Rob notes the fair's emphasis on community and learning:

    “It has such a familial feel... You realize we’re all in this together.” (05:21, A)

  • Philippe values openness over strict educational aims:

    “If Geneva Watch Days becomes more educational, if we keep the same spirit, the same openness and the same serenity… it’s all good.” (04:09, C)

3. Industry Changes and Adaptation

• Post-Covid Realities (05:57–06:46)
  • Philippe reflects on industry evolution since Covid:

    “It will change anyway. Yeah, and it’s already changing and it has changed a lot since COVID which is sort of a landmark for everybody… If you don’t evolve, you die.” (05:57, C)

  • Emphasizes the need for brands to stay close to their customers while also anticipating future trends.

4. History and Leadership of Claude Meylan

• Brand Timeline (06:51–08:47)

  • Founded by Claude Meylan, rooted in watchmaking lineage. Surge and survival through personal networks and changes in ownership.
  • Philippe’s personal story of acquiring the brand after learning it was for sale:

    “…we talked about eight months and I bought the company in December 10. So since December 10, soon, 15 years, we are having fun and we love it.” (08:47, C)

• Planning for the Future (08:47–09:33)

  • Philippe reveals a pragmatic approach: there are no grand five-year product plans—agility is key for a small company.

5. Production, Visibility, and Markets

• Production Numbers and Volatility (09:33–11:35)
  • Openly discusses a steep 67% drop in production since Covid, with gradual recovery underway (11:38–11:53).
  • Focused visibility in Switzerland and the Middle East; intentional absence from the US due to resource constraints:

    “USA would have me put me under pressure. It’s kind of hard to get the right budget and it’s even harder to get paid if you don’t get the right budget.” (10:43, C)

6. Skeletonization and Technical Philosophy

• Approach to Movement Decoration (12:19–14:36)

  • Explains their “skeleton artist” watches and pricing, with a 40mm model retailing for CHF 5,500 including tax (12:19, C).
  • Movement choices are driven by reliability and serviceability:

    “We buy only ETA because they are producing mass, they are serviced worldwide and they are super reliable and inexpensive.” (13:50, C)

  • Creativity comes from modifying and reimagining these movements for visual appeal, especially on the dial side.

• Size and Gender Fluidity (14:36–16:53)

  • The “Toltu 35mm” evolved from demand by women; younger and older clients alike are drawn to skeleton watches.

    “Stop telling us that we don’t like mechanics. We like mechanics. We like when something happens in the watch. And we like curves.” (13:48, C)

  • Philippe playfully rejects gender stereotypes:

    “There is no more sex in a watch… we have about 60% male and 40% ladies. What strikes me is that the young population loves skeleton.” (16:06, C)

7. Client Demographics and Engagement

• Audience Breakdown (15:42–16:53)

  • Young consumers (15–20) are fascinated by skeletonization, which makes the concept of a mechanical watch immediately apparent.
  • Watches designed so that backs can be easily shown off (ardillon buckles) are a response to customer desire for visual transparency.

• Industry-Wide Skeleton Trend (17:04–17:31)

  • Philippe observes that the widespread popularity of openwork watches reflects a larger fascination with mechanical craftsmanship.

8. Outsourcing and Team Structure

• Lean Operations (14:36–15:42)
  • The seven-member team outsources case manufacturing to Asia, while keeping as much Swiss-made sourcing as possible.
  • Price range spans CHF 1,700–15,000.

9. Looking Ahead: “Sculpteur du Temps”

• Future Directions (18:00–18:25)
  • Hints at upcoming product evolutions focused on further “reshuffling movements and creating a new atmosphere and a new target.” Claude Meylan has trademarked the concept “sculpteur du temps.”

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Watch Industry Change:

  “If you don’t change, you don’t evolve. If you don’t evolve, you die. It’s very simple.”
  — Philippe Belais (05:57, C)

• On the Agility of Small Brands:

  “If small companies can go through Covid and go through tough times, it’s because we are agile and quick…”
  — Philippe Belais (08:57, C)

• On Gender & Watches:

  “There is no more sex in a watch… Asian girls wearing Pasha from Cartier and then Panerais…”
  — Philippe Belais (16:06, C)

• On Skeletonization and Young Enthusiasts:

  “What strikes me is that the young population loves skeleton… they want to take it out of the window and being explained.”
  — Philippe Belais (16:06, C)

• On Brand Vision:

  “We’ve registered the sentence ‘sculpteur du temps’. So you can imagine that we will be increasing and going further in reshuffling movements and creating a new atmosphere and a new target.”
  — Philippe Belais (18:00, C)

Timeline of Important Segments

| Timestamp | Segment | |-------------|----------------------------------------------| | 00:07–01:40 | Brand introduction, case design discussion | | 01:40–02:42 | Claude Meylan origins and Vallée de Joux | | 02:57–05:07 | Geneva Watch Days: fair atmosphere, openness | | 05:57–06:46 | Industry change and adaptation | | 06:51–08:47 | Brand history, acquisition by Philippe | | 09:33–11:35 | Market presence, post-Covid impact | | 12:19–13:48 | Skeleton model technical details & pricing | | 14:36–15:42 | In-house work, team size, outsourcing | | 15:42–16:53 | Client demographics, especially youth | | 18:00–18:25 | “Sculpteur du Temps” and future vision |

Summary and Conclusion

This episode provides a richly anecdotal, candid look into the world of Claude Meylan—a rare, frank discussion of business realities, market adaptation, and the evolving identity of luxury watchmaking. Philippe Belais shines as a voice of both traditional expertise and pragmatic modernity, emphasizing agility, openness, and the ongoing quest to redefine how mechanical beauty is shown. The conversation elevates Geneva Watch Days as a unique venue for real connection, and offers insights valuable to seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.

For anyone curious about independent watchmaking, skeletonization trends, and the human stories behind Swiss brands, this episode delivers both depth and warmth.