The Real Time Show — Geneva Watch Days 2025: Rolf Studer, Oris

Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds (B), Alon Ben Joseph (C)
Guest: Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris (A)

Episode Overview

In this lively Geneva Watch Days 2025 episode, Rob and Alon chat with Rolf Studer of Oris, delving into the brand’s newest launches, the state and philosophy of Oris collectors’ clubs, and their community-driven approach to watchmaking. The discussion centers on Oris’s collaborations, technical innovations, and unique company culture—emphasizing inclusivity, connection, and design influence from the global Oris community.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Geneva Watch Days 2025 Oris Launches

• Main Releases:
  • Altimeter Collaboration with Bamford:
    • Revamped from Oris’s 2013 original, featuring updated colors and aesthetics by Bamford.
    • Extremely well-received—limited to 250 pieces.

      “It was very well received yesterday.” — Rolf, [00:34]

  • Calibre 113 in Big Crown Collection:
    • Previously in the Artelier line, now updated with a “funky dial”.
    • Highlights Oris’s appreciation for unique complications.

2. The Mechanical Altimeter: Innovation and Use Cases

• Unique Offering:
  • The only automatic watch with a built-in mechanical altimeter currently in production.

    “It still is the only automatic watch with a built in mechanical altimeter. The only one in production now.” — Rolf, [02:21]

• Technical Story:
  • Uses a “vacuum capsule” underneath the movement; atmospheric pressure shifts move a carbon hand indicating altitude.
  • Particularly compelling for outdoor enthusiasts: skiers, mountaineers, hikers.

    “For us Dutchies...we are below sea level. But that's why I love going to the mountains.” — Alon, [03:02]

• Practical Functions:
  • Can be used like a barometer for daily weather observation, even in non-mountainous areas like Holland.

    “Basically it's a barometer that shows you changes in better [weather] also.” — Rolf, [03:48]

3. Oris Social Clubs (OSCs): Community at the Core

• Global Reach:
  • 50+ OSCs worldwide; vibrant in places like Holland, New York, and California.
  • Activities include social gatherings and environmental initiatives (beach, canal, and river cleanups).

    “It's not to just talk about Oris, but to celebrate the love for mechanical watches...they like to have a beer, they like to hang out, they like to talk watches.” — Rolf, [04:20]

• Open and Inclusive:
  • Clubs open to all, not just Oris owners.

    “It's not a formal thing. It's just a gathering of people who like watches. And if you like watches, eventually you will also own an Oris.” — Rolf, [08:17]

• Self-Organization Encouraged:
  • Rolf emphasizes trust:

    “If you need to have control, normally you have something to hide. If you don't need control, then people can just be themselves, do what they feel is best.” — Rolf, [06:49]

  • Club members can propose special edition watches and help shape events and collaborations.

4. Brand Personality and Culture

• Oris as “Beer Brand”?:
  • Emphasizes laid-back community; “Oris beer” available at events, but Rolf resists pigeonholing:

    “We are a beer brand, yes, we are Bear.” (jokingly mispronounced) — Rolf, [05:12]

  • Focus on the “inclusive energy”:

    “In the exclusive world of luxury, you want to create envy...we do just the opposite.” — Rolf, [07:30]

• Grassroots Connection:
  • The brand thrives on peer-to-peer engagement, blending passion, accessibility, and fun.

5. Community-Driven Design and Feedback

• Strong Loop from Collector Clubs to Product Release:
  • Community helps influence colors, sizes, and new ideas—e.g., the purple-dial Aquis came directly from collector requests.

    “For example, the purple dialed Aquis was a request from the community...It was a great success.” — Rolf, [10:46]

  • Collectors’ presidents get early access and provide feedback in “team sessions”.
• Practical Engineering Updates:
  • Slimmer bracelet clasps for comfort; improvements based on actual user input.

    “At the end they add substance to your brand and therefore will sell more watches. But we just try to make the best product possible.” — Rolf, [12:28]

6. Caliber Discussion and Technical Achievements

• Oris Movement Legacy:
  • Historically, Oris developed nearly 300 in-house calibers before the quartz crisis.

    “We are a brand that has made almost 300 own calibers in its history before the watch crisis.” — Rolf, [14:13]

• Calibre 110/113 Series:
  • Hand-wound, 10-day power reserve, innovative “nonlinear” indicator, pointer week complication.
    • The “pointer week” offers a philosophical, visual journey through the year.

      “The hand progressed to about a quarter. It was March...I was like yes, the year is still young...In October I realized that the year is almost over...almost philosophical components to that complication.” — Rolf, [16:12]

• Movement Strategy: Three Pillars:
  1. Base level: Sellita-based (Cal. 700s) for affordability and accessibility.
  2. In-house Calibre 400: Launched 2019, 5-day reserve, anti-magnetic, 10-year warranty/service.
  3. High-end Calibre 110 Series: Showcases Oris's mechanical prowess.

  “We have these three pillars...and at the end it's the consumer who makes a choice what he wants to have.” — Rolf, [19:37]

• Balancing Innovation and Entry-Level Access:
  • Oris deliberately maintains accessible models, not just high-end, to keep serving its foundation—the community.

    “We don't want to give up on the people who want to have that more entry level piece.” — Rolf, [18:47]

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the Community-First Philosophy:

  “If you need to have control, normally you have something to hide. If you don't need control, then people can just be themselves.” — Rolf, [06:49]

• On Oris’s Position in the Industry:

  “We cultivate this inclusive energy. We want to share the joy about watches...In the exclusive world of luxury, you want to create envy...we do just the opposite.” — Rolf, [07:30]

• On Product Evolution Driven by Fans:

  “...the purple dialed Aquis was a request from the community. I was in one of these at the time zoom calls and heard that several times until we made it.” — Rolf, [10:46]

• On the Pointer Week Complication:

  “...almost the philosophical components to that complication.” — Rolf, [16:12]

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:34 – Introduction to new Oris launches (Bamford altimeter and Calibre 113 Big Crown)
• 02:09 – Technical dive into the altimeter complication and its real-world use cases
• 04:13 – Discussion of Oris Social Clubs (OSCs) and their global, grassroots vibe
• 06:49 – Rolf on brand leadership and trust in the community
• 08:14 – How to join an Oris Social Club, inclusivity and openness
• 10:46 – Community feedback's role in new product development (e.g., purple Aquis)
• 12:28 – Bracelet/clasp engineering based on user comfort
• 14:13 – Oris’s caliber-making heritage and detailed walk-through of Calibre 113
• 17:45 – Listener question about movement strategy (Sellita vs. in-house)
• 19:37 – Recap of Oris’s three-pillar movement strategy

Conclusion

This episode of The Real Time Show offers a vibrant behind-the-scenes look at Oris during Geneva Watch Days 2025, from special product drops to the brand’s refreshing, people-first philosophy. Rolf Studer's openness about listening to— and trusting— the Oris enthusiast community stands out, as does Oris's commitment to balancing technical innovation with genuine accessibility. The episode is a must for anyone seeking insight into modern watch culture, collector communities, and the staying power of an independent Swiss brand.