Geneva Watch Days 2025 — Rolf Studer, Oris

Summary

The Real Time Show — Geneva Watch Days 2025: Rolf Studer, Oris

Date: September 5, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds (B), Alon Ben Joseph (C)
Guest: Rolf Studer, Co-CEO of Oris (A)

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Episode Overview

In this lively Geneva Watch Days 2025 episode, Rob and Alon chat with Rolf Studer of Oris, delving into the brand’s newest launches, the state and philosophy of Oris collectors’ clubs, and their community-driven approach to watchmaking. The discussion centers on Oris’s collaborations, technical innovations, and unique company culture—emphasizing inclusivity, connection, and design influence from the global Oris community.

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Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Geneva Watch Days 2025 Oris Launches

• Main Releases:
  • Altimeter Collaboration with Bamford:
    • Revamped from Oris’s 2013 original, featuring updated colors and aesthetics by Bamford.
    • Extremely well-received—limited to 250 pieces.

      “It was very well received yesterday.” — Rolf, [00:34]

  • Calibre 113 in Big Crown Collection:
    • Previously in the Artelier line, now updated with a “funky dial”.
    • Highlights Oris’s appreciation for unique complications.

2. The Mechanical Altimeter: Innovation and Use Cases

• Unique Offering:
  • The only automatic watch with a built-in mechanical altimeter currently in production.

    “It still is the only automatic watch with a built in mechanical altimeter. The only one in production now.” — Rolf, [02:21]

• Technical Story:
  • Uses a “vacuum capsule” underneath the movement; atmospheric pressure shifts move a carbon hand indicating altitude.
  • Particularly compelling for outdoor enthusiasts: skiers, mountaineers, hikers.

    “For us Dutchies...we are below sea level. But that's why I love going to the mountains.” — Alon, [03:02]

• Practical Functions:
  • Can be used like a barometer for daily weather observation, even in non-mountainous areas like Holland.

    “Basically it's a barometer that shows you changes in better [weather] also.” — Rolf, [03:48]

3. Oris Social Clubs (OSCs): Community at the Core

• Global Reach:
  • 50+ OSCs worldwide; vibrant in places like Holland, New York, and California.
  • Activities include social gatherings and environmental initiatives (beach, canal, and river cleanups).

    “It's not to just talk about Oris, but to celebrate the love for mechanical watches...they like to have a beer, they like to hang out, they like to talk watches.” — Rolf, [04:20]

• Open and Inclusive:
  • Clubs open to all, not just Oris owners.

    “It's not a formal thing. It's just a gathering of people who like watches. And if you like watches, eventually you will also own an Oris.” — Rolf, [08:17]

• Self-Organization Encouraged:
  • Rolf emphasizes trust:

    “If you need to have control, normally you have something to hide. If you don't need control, then people can just be themselves, do what they feel is best.” — Rolf, [06:49]

  • Club members can propose special edition watches and help shape events and collaborations.

4. Brand Personality and Culture

• Oris as “Beer Brand”?:
  • Emphasizes laid-back community; “Oris beer” available at events, but Rolf resists pigeonholing:

    “We are a beer brand, yes, we are Bear.” (jokingly mispronounced) — Rolf, [05:12]

  • Focus on the “inclusive energy”:

    “In the exclusive world of luxury, you want to create envy...we do just the opposite.” — Rolf, [07:30]

• Grassroots Connection:
  • The brand thrives on peer-to-peer engagement, blending passion, accessibility, and fun.

5. Community-Driven Design and Feedback

• Strong Loop from Collector Clubs to Product Release:
  • Community helps influence colors, sizes, and new ideas—e.g., the purple-dial Aquis came directly from collector requests.

    “For example, the purple dialed Aquis was a request from the community...It was a great success.” — Rolf, [10:46]

  • Collectors’ presidents get early access and provide feedback in “team sessions”.
• Practical Engineering Updates:
  • Slimmer bracelet clasps for comfort; improvements based on actual user input.

    “At the end they add substance to your brand and therefore will sell more watches. But we just try to make the best product possible.” — Rolf, [12:28]

6. Caliber Discussion and Technical Achievements

• Oris Movement Legacy:
  • Historically, Oris developed nearly 300 in-house calibers before the quartz crisis.

    “We are a brand that has made almost 300 own calibers in its history before the watch crisis.” — Rolf, [14:13]

• Calibre 110/113 Series:
  • Hand-wound, 10-day power reserve, innovative “nonlinear” indicator, pointer week complication.
    • The “pointer week” offers a philosophical, visual journey through the year.

      “The hand progressed to about a quarter. It was March...I was like yes, the year is still young...In October I realized that the year is almost over...almost philosophical components to that complication.” — Rolf, [16:12]

• Movement Strategy: Three Pillars:
  1. Base level: Sellita-based (Cal. 700s) for affordability and accessibility.
  2. In-house Calibre 400: Launched 2019, 5-day reserve, anti-magnetic, 10-year warranty/service.
  3. High-end Calibre 110 Series: Showcases Oris's mechanical prowess.

  “We have these three pillars...and at the end it's the consumer who makes a choice what he wants to have.” — Rolf, [19:37]

• Balancing Innovation and Entry-Level Access:
  • Oris deliberately maintains accessible models, not just high-end, to keep serving its foundation—the community.

    “We don't want to give up on the people who want to have that more entry level piece.” — Rolf, [18:47]

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the Community-First Philosophy:

  “If you need to have control, normally you have something to hide. If you don't need control, then people can just be themselves.” — Rolf, [06:49]

• On Oris’s Position in the Industry:

  “We cultivate this inclusive energy. We want to share the joy about watches...In the exclusive world of luxury, you want to create envy...we do just the opposite.” — Rolf, [07:30]

• On Product Evolution Driven by Fans:

  “...the purple dialed Aquis was a request from the community. I was in one of these at the time zoom calls and heard that several times until we made it.” — Rolf, [10:46]

• On the Pointer Week Complication:

  “...almost the philosophical components to that complication.” — Rolf, [16:12]

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Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:34 – Introduction to new Oris launches (Bamford altimeter and Calibre 113 Big Crown)
• 02:09 – Technical dive into the altimeter complication and its real-world use cases
• 04:13 – Discussion of Oris Social Clubs (OSCs) and their global, grassroots vibe
• 06:49 – Rolf on brand leadership and trust in the community
• 08:14 – How to join an Oris Social Club, inclusivity and openness
• 10:46 – Community feedback's role in new product development (e.g., purple Aquis)
• 12:28 – Bracelet/clasp engineering based on user comfort
• 14:13 – Oris’s caliber-making heritage and detailed walk-through of Calibre 113
• 17:45 – Listener question about movement strategy (Sellita vs. in-house)
• 19:37 – Recap of Oris’s three-pillar movement strategy

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Conclusion

This episode of The Real Time Show offers a vibrant behind-the-scenes look at Oris during Geneva Watch Days 2025, from special product drops to the brand’s refreshing, people-first philosophy. Rolf Studer's openness about listening to— and trusting— the Oris enthusiast community stands out, as does Oris's commitment to balancing technical innovation with genuine accessibility. The episode is a must for anyone seeking insight into modern watch culture, collector communities, and the staying power of an independent Swiss brand.

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Transcript

[A]

Foreign.

[B]

Hello Watch fans and welcome back to Geneva watch days 2025. From the glass onion outside the pavilion, right now we're joined by Rolf Studer, the big man behind Oris, one of the most popular brands on the ground over here, one of the biggest collectors brands in the world. Rolf, how are you doing today?

[A]

Doing very well. Good to be here.

[B]

It's great to have you back again. We've had you on the show before and it was a positively received episode. Without a doubt, everybody loves Iris. It's a great affordable product that is exceptional quality. So what have you got to show us today?

[A]

Well, we have two launches here at the Geneva Watch Days. One is our altimeter that you may know. We have had in the collection since 2013. And now this is a collaboration with Bamford, who just gave it some nice colors, gave it a new look and it was very well received yesterday. Then we also have one of my favorite complications, which is calibre 113 that we used to have in Artelier and now we bring it here in the big crown collection and with quite a funky dial.

[B]

Those colors are incredible. That is very, very timely. Glad to see you experimenting. Glad to see you pushing the boat out as usual. But that Bamford altimeter, that is something special. Alon, what do you make of that?

[C]

Well, I. I love George and I love what he does. I love Oris. Real watches for real people. Hence we're on the Real Time show. Rob. But all kidding aside, just think about it, guys. Who makes mechanical altimeters? Rob, I'm picking your brain. Who has it in production still favor? Lebbe doesn't. They didn't bring it back.

[B]

No, no.

[C]

So who does?

[B]

That was unwearable as well. This one's much more forgiving on the wrist.

[C]

Exactly. I just had it on my wrist. The black tones it down. The depth in the dials is amazing. It's out there, but not in your face. Limited edition?

[A]

Yeah. 250 pieces.

[B]

Rolf, where do you sell most of the altimeters? What sort of area of the world are they most popular in?

[A]

Well, it's more popular in the western part of the world, so in Europe, in the United States, uk. Always has been a good market for the altimeter. It started as a very technical piece. Right. It still is the only automatic watch with a built in mechanical altimeter. The only one in production now. And the technicals behind it are really impressive. It's a vacuum capsule that sits below the movement and with the tiny movements that come from the air pressure changes on that vacuum Capsule that are translated to the carbon hand. You see the altitudes on the dial, which I find fascinating for us Dutchies.

[C]

Yeah, we are below sea level. But that's why I love going to the mountains. Me myself as a skier, I would enjoy this in reality. Besides that it looks cool and has depth to it. And we'll share more content about this watch in reality. Rolf, who uses your altimeter watches?

[A]

Well, you're right, it's really a watch that people who are in the mountains or skiers or mountaineers, they use it. I like to wear it when I go hiking, when I go skiing also. But even living in Holland you can use that watch because basically it's a barometer. Yeah, right. It shows a change in pressure and then if you connect that change in pressure to a reference point, then you have altitudes. But basically it's a barometer that shows you changes in better also. So very good use in Holland too.

[C]

Amazing. So you heard it first because Holland has maybe, I dare to say one of the most vivid OSC's. No OCS, sorry? The Oris Collectors Social Clubs.

[A]

OSC.

[C]

I always confuse those two letters. I think it's one of the most vivid social clubs you have for us. Is that correct?

[A]

Yeah. Well, there are more than 50 around the world and they are all very active. And I love, wherever I go, I love to meet these people. It's not to just talk about Oris, but to celebrate the law for mechanical watches. And yeah, they're all like minded people. They like watches, they like to have a beer, they like to hang out, they like to talk watches. And that's how we like to spend our free time, don't we?

[C]

You do.

[B]

I mean you mentioned having a beer there and it's very true that like the Oris Social Club's gatherings are extremely enjoyable from a libation perspective. How did you cultivate that personality? How did you become a beer brand? Because I work with a couple of brands that like to define themselves as such. But I've never seen as much beer consumed at a watch event as I have at an IRIS event.

[A]

Well, I wouldn't say that we are a beer brand, we are a Bear brand. Yes, we are Bear.

[B]

No, don't start that again.

[A]

We are watch brands and we are watch enthusiasts ourselves and we like to hang out with our fellow watch enthusiasts as we do it in our own free time. And if you can do that even in your professional life, your really privileged. Right? And oh yeah, traveling around the world and meeting like minded people, it really is a nice Thing. And ORIS has always been a brand for the community, Bift community. And we still are. And I really like to cultivate that. And it is great personal benefits for me to be able to do that.

[C]

And what I love as well that the social clubs actually give back. In Holland you do beach cleanups, I think.

[A]

Yeah.

[C]

New York obviously is maybe one of the most popular things you guys do. And you make collabs by cleaning up the Hudson. Yeah, correct.

[A]

Yeah.

[C]

California, you did beach. So I. I got that out of. So that's also an element that I really, really appreciate. I also spoke to Dennis Jansen, member of the Real Time show Community Shout out to. Dennis is a very active member of the Order social club. So I've spoken to him to do a Amsterdam canal cleanup. So that's something we work on and you guys picked it up. I've also asked them. They are rather self organizing. Most brands don't like losing control over their brand. It's correct that these social clubs can run themselves.

[A]

If you need to have control, normally you have something to hide. If you don't need control, then people can just be themselves, do what they feel is best. And that's also how I try to lead this company. I don't want to have opinions. I don't want people to have to bend. I want to cultivate an attitude. And if you all have that same attitude, then you can push things forward the way that you think they're best and it will be the best for the brand. Also, in this exclusive world of mechanical watches that we are in, I think we have a somewhat special position at oris. We cultivate this inclusive energy. We want to share the joy about watches. In the exclusive world of luxury, you want to create envy. It's a very short lived, somewhat bad feeling. And it's. There's no joy involved. Right. You just exclude people. That's where exclusive is coming from. And we do just the opposite.

[C]

Well said. And you can feel it. Grassroots almost talking about inclusive. If somebody's listening or watching to this show, how can they be included in their local chapter?

[A]

Well, they go to the website or they go to Facebook. They see where it is, they write a message, the president will contact them. They can be part of it. And it's not a formal thing. It's just a gathering of people who like watches. And if you like watches, eventually you will also own an Aorus.

[C]

Exactly. So it's not mandatory to be an Aorus watch owner yet.

[A]

Absolutely not. Just hang out and have a good time talking about and appreciating mechanical watches and that's all you need.

[C]

Fun fact. They reward these gatherings and clubs with their own additions. Did you know that, Rob?

[B]

I've heard tell of it on the street. Although I've never been to one of these events and I feel like an idiot for not going. It sounds like a wonderful environment, something I'd like to be a part of. So maybe it should come up. Maybe I'll come to Amsterdam one.

[C]

You should. I know Dennis will be happy. The whole crew at Gays shout out to gijs but they make for their local chapters collapse. So how do these come about? Do they pitch to you guys in Holstein what they want or how does it work?

[A]

Yeah, we have regular meetings or team sessions with the presidents of the chapters. They get to see our novelties in advance. They get to give feedback on what we do. And this is very valuable to us. And yeah, that's how that takes place. So there's really no secret formula behind it. And yes, you can have a beer at these events also Rob, so you'll be happy. There is normally often we have specific orris beers.

[B]

Yeah.

[A]

So you will be able to have an oris beer there too.

[C]

But did you see his German?

[A]

Yeah, we talk about beers, you know, you can also have a glass of wine or a glass of water. Whatever you feel comfortable with.

[B]

I think I would be comfortable with anything. It sounds like an environment very comfortable and very welcoming. It's very interesting that you consult with the community in design process and it must give you great insight into where the market is moving and what the opinions of the people that will be buying your watches most likely are before you drop a release. Have you noticed any major shifts in recent years, last couple of years, specifically from your community that you're applying to your strategy now?

[A]

Yeah, there were several watches that that came from that exchange. For example, the purple dialed aqueous was a request from the community. I was in one of these at the time zoom calls and heard that several times until we made it was a great success. Also sizes of watches are influenced by the feedback of the community. So we really listen and it's our understanding of watchmaking that we are on that eye to eye level and that we don't just dictate what we think is right, but we have that exchange. And of course at the end we need to steer the brand so we need to have our vision but our community is part of that and informs very much what we do.

[C]

While Rob is admiring the second launch of this fair I kindly want to ask you, Rob.

[A]

Rob.

[C]

I said Rolf, to add this camera with your wrist. I want people to look at the bottom of his wrist. This is an example that ORS listens to the watch owners. Because one thing that I very much dislike about metal bracelets, single double butterflies, triple folding buckles is the thickness. I was fiddling around with the new week calendar and I noticed how slim and well engineered the clasp was. So walk us through that process because a lot of brands neglect that. Why did you do it? How did you come about? Did you listen to the market? Because these are things that don't per se sell more watches and you don't.

[A]

Notice it well at the end they add substance to your brand and therefore will sell more watches. But we just try to make the best product possible. And the bracelet is a very important part of your watch. We updated our Big Crown original collection this year with new metal bracelet that was received very well on the 754 collections as well as on the 403. And now also caliber 113 has gotten that update. And as the watch really has become a piece of jewelry, that bracelet must be part of that piece of jewelry and can't just be there to hold the watch on your wrist. Right. And that was the thinking when we approach that metal bracelets process with the Big Crown original. And I'm glad that you like the results. Yeah.

[C]

Rob, do you want me. Rob is all mesmerized.

[B]

Yeah. I'm captivated by the movement. I'm just. I think it's so beautiful. It's just a really nicely done maybe.

[C]

While Rob still is in awe, if I remember correctly, the hundred platform was done for your hundredth anniversary.

[A]

So that is 110.

[C]

110. So it's 11 years ago. Yeah, 11 years ago. How has it been fairing for you that caliber? Because ever since you launched more calibers you elevated your quality promise by giving 5 years warranty on your own calibers. Walk us please through this stunning novelty. And it. And it's going towards a full calendar because you have day, week and month if I remember small seconds.

[A]

Yeah, yeah, we. We have. We are a brand that has made almost 300 own calibers in its history before the watch crisis.

[C]

300?

[A]

Yeah.

[B]

Wow. 300 calibers?

[A]

Yeah, yeah. It was very important part of what we had been doing. Now we still know some of them. 645 for example, 0.8 small second hand winding that has been in our catalog for decades. And we brought obviously that in house watchmaking came to a halt with the watch crisis. We restarted again in 2014 with calibre 150 10. Then that was quite a step for us because it was hand winding. 10 days power reserve, non linear power reserve indication our patents and we brought many iterations of that one. 11 was the serialization of 110. 112 was the moon phase. 113 that we have here. The pointer weak, one of my favorites. 114 the GMT half hour GMT 115 the skeletonized version in propyle decks. And now we bring 113 with that pointer week calendar in the collection. That's basically made for our pointer calendars which is a signature of what we do. Since 1938 we do pointer dates. A complication I really love because you don't have to cut a hole in the dial. The dial stays intact and you have that hand that shows the date. With the 113 we have a pointer week. So you have a hand that turns one time a year. And I remember very well when I got the first version of that watch in 2017 and the hand progressed to about a quarter. It was March Baselworld still, right. I was like yes, the year is still young. You have a lot of time to do what you have to do. And in October I realized that the year is almost over. The hand was at 10 o' clock. So you need to rush to get things done. And then in December you realize well maybe 40 more turns and that's it. So almost the philosophical components to that complication. And now it is in the background where I think it belongs in those yes, a bit flashy colors. Ideal for these late days of summer. Giving some color to your life. Yeah, I think it's great. And as you mentioned Rob, to look at the movement, right? I mean look at that movement hand winding. You see the main barrel, the huge main barrel that stores that those 10 days of power reserve. You see the snake gears that make the nonlinear power reserve indication. There are are not many brands out there that make pointer week calendars. We are one of the few. So yeah, really love that piece.

[B]

We've had a question come in from one of our listeners and or viewers. We can say now cuz we got viewers.

[C]

We need to get used to that strange.

[B]

And it's caliber related so this is a good moment to ask it. And the question comes from Oros minded and question is Oris came with the amazing in House caliber 400. But recent launches were again largely available with a selita Caliber. Is that a market reaction to the slowdown post Covid or was it always the plan?

[A]

Our movement strategy has three pillars. It is the the base level of 700 calibers. Sellita base. We always have been a brand for the community as we discussed and all. Oris often was a first watch in a watch collector's start watch collectors collection and we owe a lot to the community and we don't want to give up that first watch in a collection that's very important to us. Then we have caliber 400 that we launched 2019. That's our own automatic caliber 5 days power reserve, anti magnetic, 10 years warranty, 10 years service intervals and then on top there is caliber 110. So we have these three pillars. Since 2019 we have worked a lot on the caliber 400 series. We have brought several complications there but we don't want to give up on the people who want to have that more entry level piece. So whereas we have brought a lot on caliber 400 this parcel has seen also some nice introductions in 754. Again the point to date based on the Solita as well as 403 the point to date based on our caliber 400. So we will continue to have these three pillars and at the end it's the consumer who makes a choice what he wants to have.

[B]

Beautiful answer. Thanks for that Rolf. We're going to wrap up the show there so you can get back to business talking to customers and clients alike. Alon, is there anything else you'd like to add before we wrap this one up?

[C]

So much. But we'll invite Rolf back for a full classic one hour episode with or without camera. Let us know what you want.

[B]

Yeah, let's have a community driven episode because that's what TRTS does and it's what Oris does better than any brand out there. Thank you for watching. Thank you for listening. Like subscribe, share and join us again soon. It.