The Real Time Show: Progress For Progress's Sake? Has Watch Movement Development Gone Far Enough?

Released on February 9, 2025

Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Description: Real questions. Real Answers. Real talk. The world's most interactive watchmaking podcast, hosted by Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph.

Introduction

Rob Nudds opens the episode with a rapid-fire mention of numerous celebrities and notable figures, setting an energetic tone for the discussion ahead. He warmly welcomes Alon Ben Joseph, introducing him as the friendly neighborhood jeweler alongside Rob's expertise as a watchmaker.

Mailbag and Listener Questions

The episode centers around a mailbag segment, where Rob and Alon address questions from their dedicated listeners. The session delves deep into multiple facets of the watchmaking industry, from design collaborations to the sustainability of movement innovations.

Ryan’s Question: Reflecting on 2024 and Looking Ahead to 2025

Timestamp: [00:00] - [06:35]

Rob presents a question from a listener named Ryan, directed to Alon, asking about his reflections on 2024 and his aspirations for 2025, including any personal plans.

Alon’s Response: Alon reflects on 2024 as a tumultuous yet rewarding year, highlighting significant achievements such as designing multiple watches, engaging in collaborations (including a notable second collaboration with Circula alongside Cornelius Huber), and orchestrating numerous creative projects. He acknowledges the challenges faced by the watch industry, notably the cooling market and fluctuating prices in the pre-owned sector, especially post-COVID.

"2024 has been a roller coaster, both personally and professionally. Despite the market's cooling down, we've managed to push forward with ten collaborations, which may have been ambitiously high but fostered incredible creativity and teamwork."
[02:48] - [06:35]

Alon also touches upon the rise of non-round (shape) watches—a trend discussed in a recent episode with Scarlett Baker—emphasizing the industry's shift towards more creative and diverse designs.

Watches and Wonders: A Critical Take

Timestamp: [06:35] - [10:07]

Rob inquires about the recent Watches and Wonders fair, prompting Alon to share his somewhat lukewarm impressions. He notes the limited addition of new brands to the fair's lineup and expresses his disappointment with Rolex CEO Mr. Dufool's criticisms of other event organizers, labeling competing exhibitions as "pirates."

"Why are you lashing out at them? The more players in the ecosystem, the better."
Alon Ben Joseph
[06:39]

Alon extends his critique to the logistical constraints of Geneva during the fair, suggesting a collaborative approach to enhance the watchmaking community rather than creating divisions.

Lighthearted Banter: Mustaches and Mischief

Timestamp: [10:07] - [11:17]

Rob and Alon engage in playful banter about Rob’s facial hair, adding a humorous respite to the technical discussions. Rob shares his temporary mustache mishap due to forgetting his trimmer in England, likening his look to a mini Tom Selleck or a more Nordic, Viking-inspired style.

Micropraja Watch Fair: A Boon for Independent Brands

Timestamp: [18:42] - [24:00]

Rob and Alon discuss their experiences at Micropraja, a burgeoning watch fair in Prague. They commend the event for its accessibility, affordability, and the vibrant showcase of independent watch brands. Rob highlights the event's value proposition, noting the low cost per table and the opportunity for substantial brand exposure.

"Micropraja offers exceptional value with tables priced under €1,000 for the weekend, providing an incredible platform for brands to reach a large audience without breaking the bank."
Rob Nudds
[18:42]

Alon expresses enthusiasm about potential collaborations and the possibility of establishing a Real Time Show stand at future Micropraja events, emphasizing the fair's role in fostering community and brand growth.

Custom Watch Straps: Recommendations and Insights

Timestamp: [24:35] - [30:58]

Richard from the TRTS network poses a question about where to source custom watch straps. Rob provides a comprehensive overview of his top three recommendations:

1. Yellow Dog Watch Straps
   Durable, military-style straps perfect for rugged watches.
   “They are tough, rugged military style straps, extremely industrial, not the most refined but well-made and good value for money.”
   Rob Nudds
   [24:59]

2. Genteel Handmade (Romania)
   High-quality leather straps with exceptional finishing and customization options.
   “The quality of leather here is a cut above. The finishing is extremely good, and you can customize stitching colors, edgings, and even have initials stamped.”
   Rob Nudds
   [24:59]

3. Strap Tailor (associated with Studio Underdog)
   Custom-made straps with excellent craftsmanship, tailored for specific watch models.
   “They go to great lengths to create a satisfying product, especially for unique watches with non-standard lugs like the Czapek Antarctic.”
   Rob Nudds
   [24:59]

Alon’s Additions: Alon complements Rob’s recommendations by mentioning additional esteemed strap makers like Camille Fournet in Paris and local European options such as D Strap and D Lugs in the Netherlands. He underscores the importance of custom straps in enhancing the watch-wearing experience and encourages listeners to explore local artisans.

"If you’re hesitant about replacement straps, remember that switching straps can transform your watch experience, almost like getting a new watch."
Alon Ben Joseph
[30:58]

Listener's Perspective: Diminishing Returns in Watch Movements

Timestamp: [30:58] - [42:02]

Leopold from Vienna submits a thought-provoking question regarding the sustainability and necessity of continuous advancements in watch movement technology. He questions whether recent improvements offer meaningful benefits to consumers or merely serve as marketing tactics to inflate prices.

Leopold’s Question: "Has progress in movement technology arrived at a point where the returns for the consumer are not useful anymore? Are they even diminishing to the point of being meaningless, even for hardcore enthusiasts?"
Leopold
[24:35]

Rob’s Analysis:

Rob strongly agrees with Leopold, arguing that many incremental advancements in watch movements offer negligible practical benefits. He highlights the trade-offs involved in new materials and technologies, which often result in compromised durability or reliability.

"Most of the movement improvements are simply marketing gimmicks. They don't offer substantial benefits to the end-user and often come with trade-offs that reduce the overall reliability of the watch."
Rob Nudds
[37:13]

Rob emphasizes the importance of focusing innovation on aesthetics and design rather than minor mechanical enhancements. He advocates for investments in areas that add true value to the craftsmanship and soul of watchmaking.

Alon’s Agreement:

Alon concurs with Rob, stressing that research and development should not be driven solely by marketing needs. He points out the prevalent trend of brands pushing silicon components to increase power reserves, often leading to quality control issues and reliability problems.

"There's a game going on in the watch industry just for the sake of it. Brands feel pressured to constantly innovate, sometimes cutting corners, which ultimately detracts from the product’s quality."
Alon Ben Joseph
[42:02]

Together, Rob and Alon advocate for a more sustainable and meaningful approach to watchmaking, where innovations genuinely enhance the user experience and the craft itself.

Exploring Scandinavian Watchmaking

Timestamp: [42:02] - [58:29]

Jonathan Weiss poses a question about Scandinavian watchmaking, curious about the hosts' opinions and favorite brands from the region. This sparks an extensive discussion on the rising prominence of Nordic brands and their unique design philosophies.

Jonathan's Question: "I've recently discovered Scandinavian watchmaking. What are your opinions about the watches, especially your favorite brands/watchmakers in that region?"
Jonathan Weiss
[42:02]

Rob’s Insights:

Rob, deeply connected to Scandinavian watchmaking through his involvement with brands like Archanaut and Straum, shares his admiration for the region’s design ethos. He highlights the importance of distinctive case silhouettes and praises brands such as Sapaneva, Micro Mil Spec, and Vitrium for their innovative approaches and aesthetic excellence.

"If you've got a watch that can be identified from 20 paces, then you're doing something right. Scandinavian brands excel in creating unique, identifiable designs that stand out."
Rob Nudds
[48:11]

Rob also mentions his involvement with Straum and the collaborative efforts with Micro Mil Spec, underscoring the vibrant and growing Scandinavian watch community.

Alon’s Perspective:

Alon complements Rob’s evaluation by pointing out the strategic collaboration among Scandinavian brands, predicting that their unified efforts will elevate the region's standing in the global watchmaking arena. He anticipates increased press coverage and critical recognition for Scandinavian brands, driven by their commitment to design excellence and innovation.

"There is enough differentiation between what the Nordic brands are doing. If they band together and start more events, we'll start seeing modern Scandinavian watchmaking as a major player in the industry."
Alon Ben Joseph
[58:07]

Alon also extends praise to emerging brands like JS Watch, noting their impressive clientele and distinctive advertising campaigns, which blend traditional and modern elements effectively.

Conclusion

Rob and Alon wrap up the episode by encouraging listeners to engage with the Real Time Show community, participate in future events, and continue exploring the dynamic world of watchmaking. They express excitement for upcoming projects and collaborations, promising more insightful content driven by their passionate audience.

"If any of those brands were new to any of the ears trained on us right now, we should close the episode. If you have any questions for us to replenish the mailbag, then please do get in touch."
Rob Nudds
[58:29]

Key Takeaways:

• Industry Trends: A critical examination of whether continuous advancements in watch movements add real value or merely serve marketing purposes.
• Event Insights: Mixed reviews on major watch fairs like Watches and Wonders versus the enthusiasm for growing independent events like Micropraja.
• Customization Importance: Emphasis on the value of custom watch straps in personalizing and enhancing the watch-wearing experience.
• Scandinavian Influence: Recognition of the rising influence and unique design philosophies of Scandinavian watchmakers, with a prediction of their growing prominence in the industry.

Connect with The Real Time Show:

• Instagram:

  • Rob Nudds: @robnuddS
  • Alon Ben Joseph: @alonbenjoseph
  • Scarlett: @scarlinthe_shire
  • David: @davaucher

• Website: www.therealtime.show
  Contact via first names + therealtime.show or through the contact form.

Stay tuned for more episodes featuring interviews with top watchmaking finalists and community-driven content. Until next time, stay safe and keep on ticking!