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- [00:00]
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Foreign.
- [00:07]
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Welcome back to the Realtime show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds. Today I am joined by our humble rambler, Scarlet Baker, calling in from London to discuss, among other things, some new watches released during the LVMH watch week. But we have other questions to answer before we get round to that. First. Welcome to the studio, Scarlett. Nice to see you.
- [00:26]
A
Hi, guys. It's been a minute, but I'm back. I've been on a little temporary hiatus which wasn't expected, but I was a little bit busy at the end of last year bringing out a new magazine for those that might not be aware. It's called Heist out, issue two. Please go and buy it. Just type it in on Google and it'll send you to lots of great websites and stockers where you can buy it. Shameless plug. I know, but it's. I'm biased. But Rob, I. I don't know if you've actually seen it yet in the flesh, but it's basically a critique on how we consume media and our relationship between the digital and physical world and sort of trying to shift how we narrate and communicate when we're pitching stories about watches. And the main kind of plot twist behind it all is that it's in the size of an iPhone 16, so you can read it on the go.
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B
This is really cool. Now, I've not seen it in person, I've not held one in hand yet, but I was absolutely amazed by the concept and the execution looks brilliant. Does it come in a little iPhone style box as well?
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A
It absolutely does for any of our listeners. If you're in and around Paris on February 12, we are hosting our next launch event there because we're doing like a little global sort of tour with it because the magazine is based in Geneva. So we had a Geneva launch around auction season in November last year and then we came to London just before Christmas and then we're taking it to Paris in February and hopefully more exciting cities so we can kind of meet the community, push the community even further and basically show people the magazine, which operates a bit more as a concept, I think. And the feedback's been interesting so far in a good way, but we welcome all kind of responses, all criticism, all feedback to keep pushing ourselves further. So check us out on Instagram, guys. It's Heistout. See what you think of it.
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B
Did you say February 12th?
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A
I did.
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B
Okay, great. Thanks for the invite. Appreciate it.
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A
So welcome.
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B
Yeah. Okay.
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A
First time you're hearing of it?
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B
Yeah, absolutely. It sounds Incredible. And this magazine is incredible. But I guess many of our listeners will be thinking the same thing as me. Magazines have to be incredible these days to give us a reason to buy them, to engage with that physical media, to actually hand over cash for a watch industry product when so much news can be found online. Like you said, this is not just a magazine though. This is kind of a shop window almost for like what high stack can do, like that creativity, that way of communicating in a different format. What is it about that that appeals to you as someone working behind the scenes on something like that? Because you obviously think it's valuable that we still have that kind of media.
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A
I mean, exactly. You rightly point out there that to pick up a magazine today and actually hand over your pennies for it is quite rare. And as someone that lives and breathes that universe, it's quite a rare experience for me too. I went to a independent magazine shop the other day with the view to buy something because I obviously want to support all these independent publishers, but I was looking and flicking through a lot of the pages and nothing stimul buy it. So if I feel that and I'm someone that loves and treasures and cares for print, then I can't imagine how you know people that aren't in the business of publishing or you know, luxury magazines specifically, how they must feel. So for me the challenge is to not only tap into people that know love and care about watches, but those that don't, but also to try and get more people to have magazines in their hands again. And that comes down to this idea of questioning the value and the meaning behind options. And I think that's something that we do with watches now more than ever. It's about giving these objects that we want to invest our money in a bit more of a purpose, a bit more of a relationship rather than you can see that there's 50 ads at the start of the magazine and you've already dissociated. If you're going to work with those advertisers as well. It's about how you work with those advertisers. And one thing that we specifically pride ourselves on at Highstyle is when we do work with advertisers because we are a print magazine that has to survive. It's the way that every magazine has always worked and will continue to do so for a long time is when we work with these people, we create the content for them. So we will never accept a pre supplied image in our pages and run that that you'll then Pick up and see in how many other magazines we create those shoots ourselves, we pitch the concept to those brands and all of those ideas are original. So hopefully even if you do see that they've done a collaboration with Casio or they've done one with xyz, you'll know that was our idea that we pitched to them. And that's our efforts to also try and challenge the industry. Because a lot of the time we talk about this industry being a little bit archaic in places and brands saying no, it's a bit too left field. My job is also to push that and challenge that even when it comes down to something like a single page advert. So that when you see it, Rob, you think, okay, they had a bit of paid advertising there. But I've never seen this image before and it actually makes me connect with that brand even more.
- [05:32]
B
So it's a total concept rendered in a heist out style and it's an absolute collectible as well. It isn't just a throwaway item that you read and then dispose of. It's a moment in time.
- [05:40]
A
I guess you can do what you want with it. Like it's a very good portable size. If you want to use it as a doorstop, each to their own because it fits in your jean pocket. I think it could be quite easy to throw the jeans in the wash and forget that the magazine's in there. Do what you want with that. We want this magazine to be consumed in as many ways as possible. There's no correct way to read it. Like it's, it's something you, you know, you should return to time and time again. All the content in there is specifically evergreen for a reason. We're not a news outlet. There are so many brilliant watch publications out there, both digitally and print that cover that in a great way, in a way that, you know, I'm here today to be able to talk about LVMH Watch Week, having looked at some of my peers articles and websites online so I can consume that news. But we don't position ourselves in that way. We're here to challenge the visual storytelling, but also the kind of stories that you see written about watchers.
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B
As a journalist, do you find it more engaging to write these longer format, more detailed, evergreen pieces rather than just staying on top of the news? I mean, some people get a thrill out of being the first to publish something, but is it for you, something that you appreciate more when it's a bit more of a slow burn creation process?
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A
I would rather find a story That's, I mean, let's face it, none of us are reinventing the will. But to find a story that has been given less attention or, you know, sometimes hasn't been found yet is the sort of dream as a journalist, I think, to exercise your journalistic muscles. You have to be doing the new sort of side of things sometimes as well. It's very good to, to push yourself with that and, you know, particularly coming back at the start of the year and, you know, not writing for two weeks, it's great to jump into those jobs because, yes, it does kind of keep you afloat and eyes and ears on what's happening with the industry because at the same time, if I don't know that stuff, I can't comment as much sometimes on the longer forms. Like, I think it, for me, where I'm also at in my career right now, I'm five years into writing about watches. It benefits me if I have an awareness of all of these new launches, all of these new releases, because then if I wanted to go and find the original model that this new one was based on and do the long form there, I'd have that link to make that happen. So I, you know, it's, yeah, like writing five articles a day about all the new releases can sometimes be a bit, oh, you know, I want to find that gripping story that. Where I just cannot wait to get to my keyboard. But I think sometimes you can't have one without the other.
- [08:13]
B
It can help in some unbelievable ways as well when it comes to building the career, because you're five years into writing, but you've also experienced other areas of the industry already and there's no reason to say you can't end up going into consultation or design or some kind of watchmaking yourself in the future. Absolutely nothing to rule it out. And having that almost encyclopedic knowledge that you are building just as a byproduct of covering this stuff is incredibly useful. It happened to me today in a product development call with a client where we were discussing using a quite unusual material in case construction. And I said, yeah, well, it has been done once before. In 2015, Bulgari released this watch, blah, blah, blah. And then they were looking at me like, what did you search with to find that? And I was like, no, I wrote the article when it came out and I just remember it as a result. And it's extremely useful to have that bank of knowledge to draw on, as tough as it is, as you reference, to come back, especially after a break over Christmas and get into churning out that content that needs to be done to deadlines, often the most competitive deadlines in the industry, when there's a massive event and everybody's writing about the same thing. So as tough as it is, it's obviously worthwhile and it will just help make you even more creative as time goes on. Now let's see how creative we can get with the answers to some of these questions that have been flowing in.
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A
Can I just disclose, by the way, I feel like I'm breathing like Darth Vader down the mic. I think I've had a few too many cigarettes today, so if you can hear, like, really heavy breathing. Sorry about that.
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B
Do you want me to leave that in?
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A
Yeah, sure. Why not?
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B
All right, you humble rambler.
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For a reason.
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B
Yeah. What, you've been smoking cigarettes or a pipe? Because I feel like your character smokes a pipe.
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My character? No, when I'm. When I'm on deadline, it's just. It's so weird. It's like two minutes away from the screen. I. I do not condone smoking. I should clarify.
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B
Yeah, you do. Come on. It's cool.
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A
Yeah, but, like, just having two minutes, step away some. All the time, like, some idea comes into my head or then I go back and look at what I've just written and I'm like, I can make that better now that I've stepped away for a second. So it's a bit of a vicious cycle between making my work better and making my health worse. But, yeah, less about my smoking habits, which I will eventually work on, But I am doing dry, Jan. There is that. But, yes, we've been sent some. Some great questions from the listeners, so we should definitely hit some of these before we launch into chatting about LVMH Watch week.
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Hopefully you don't need to step away for a fag or pull yourself that first glass of gin in 2026 because of any of these questions. Some are challenging.
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It would be about how you make me feel, Rob, after spending an hour with you on a podcast. It wouldn't be the listeners.
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So, yeah, you wouldn't be the first woman I've turned to drink, that's for sure.
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And I won't be the last.
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Probably not. All right. We did put a request out to the community last night. Thanks for ruining my absolutely seamless segue, by the way. That. Great. I love the personality.
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That's what I'm here for.
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B
Absolutely. So we asked the community to send us in some questions because there'd been quite some call For a return to the mic for Scarob, as I like to call us in the chat, which isn't very attractive.
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A
Scrob. Scrob.
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Scrob. Scrub is even better. That's scrub. Okay, so here comes.
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Hang on, hang on. Scrob and Scalon. They sound like illnesses, don't they?
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They do sound like things that either need cutting or snipping off.
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Right, moving on, moving on.
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B
Right, so scrubs and scalons Aside, here is scrub 2026 for the first time on a mic and we have questions courtesy of Brett, who has sent in. Actually, we're going to ask four of Brett's questions. We have banked everybody's questions and we're going to answer the ones that we don't address today, next week. But we just lined up a few to knock down in a row because the last question from the mailbag leads us into the big conversation about lvmh. So that's why we've done what we're doing. Brett's first question is, Scarlett, what is your favourite non round indie watch?
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A
Well, TRTS listeners, I bring you an exclusive today that hasn't been announced anywhere. Yeah, Rob, you don't even know what I'm about to say. I'm going to talk about my favorite non round indie watch that isn't out yet, but I have checked with the founder and they are very happy for me to share a little bit of information about it. I can't say too much or the release date, but I believe it will definitely be in the first quarter of the year.
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B
I bet I can guess who it is. I bet I can guess it's a.
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Dear friend of mine, but I'm a big, big believer in what they're doing and they've had all the deserved success so far. So it is Anoma and it's called the anoma A1 prehistoric. This particular model that's coming out I find fascinating and I find all of Mateo's work fascinating. Not just because he's a good friend of mine, but I like his stance. I think he's. He doesn't make anything for the sake of it, which is why, and I think they said this on the Instagram the other day, all of this process takes time. Mateo is never going to rush into something for the sake of just having product out there. But the anoma A1 prehistoric is very much questioning. When does a watch become an object? So we've seen abstract ideas with the introduction of the Enoma A1 before, but his kind of standpoint on this one, I should clarify, I'm not being paid a penny, or as Justin has likes to say, not being paid a sausage for any of this here. This is a genuine love of what he's bringing out. But I think sometimes, and I should clarify, as someone who is a devout maximalist, there is a lot of maximalism out there for the sake of it, with no reason, no purpose, no integrity behind it. People are doing things visually quite a lot for the sake of doing things visually, to just throw something out there and have a little bit of difference, but there's never real substance behind it. So Matteo's next piece is grappling with two ideas of capturing the energy of a prehistoric tool while also celebrating craft in a way that isn't just about making something pretty. So it's an evolution of the A1, and we'll see a shift in the exterior of it. I'm really enjoying speaking in code. I can't. Just a disclaimer to the listeners. I can see Rob's face while I'm recording and he's just looking at me like, what are you saying? But I'm excited to see what questions this ruffles amongst consumers, clients, and also fellow industry peers with the direction of this, because we've seen some great watches throughout history that challenge the concept of when does a watch become an object and, you know, its use and things like that. And as we move further and further away as watches being used as tool watches, I think the next Enoma is kind of making a real nod to that and showing how the language of tools is being used in a different way. So I'm going to stop there. But it is this next anoma A1 prehistoric. Okay, well, Rob has actually temporarily disappeared from the podcast, so you're stuck with me for the time being, and I shall aim to keep you all entertained while he takes his own temporary hiatus. So the second question that was sent in was, what's your favorite indie watch bracelet? It came out at the, I think, tail end of last year. I think it was around October time. I still have to stand by the Ming poly mesh bracelet that they bought out. For anybody that didn't see it. It was 3D printed titanium bracelet, and it had this great sort of juxtaposition between wearing, like, fabric, even though it was a metal. I really, really loved that. Rob has now decided to return to the chat, everybody, after taking a hiatus. Did I really bang on about Anoma that much that you felt that you had to leave the podcast entirely?
- [16:43]
B
No, I was absolutely Loving the expose. I just must have run out of bandwidth. I have about 35 tabs open because I've been doing research into a new product I'm working on. So I probably am responsible for that myself. And I apologize. Where did you get up to? It sounds like you started talking about your favorite bracelet. The continuation of Brett's question.
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I did, yeah. I carried on without you because every man for themselves, absolute pro.
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B
It's the first time that's ever happened for us since we switched over to Riverside that someone got knocked out of the conversation like mid chat. And it seems like I've been able to rejoin without a problem. And it seems like everything is still going perfectly well. So we'll just continue from where we left off when I rudely abandoned Scarlet. So I have to respond to the first question. Scrob. You just. It's getting grosser every time you say it. It became scrog.
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It's just. It's a very onomatopoeic word, isn't it? Scrub.
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Yeah, I hate to think what scrub actually is.
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A
Yeah, let's stop, please, let's do we often do this?
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We get these weird little corners. We don't want to explore this too much.
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A
I'm going to start talking about onion crowns again, aren't I?
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B
Oh, I love it when you do that. We need to put it on TRTS XXX though, Remember, it's too.
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Can we please not act like that's. That's a regular thing. It literally happened one time and never again.
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B
It happened. It happens regularly and it's always awkward.
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A
I don't know what narrative you're trying to push here, but.
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B
No, you know exactly what narrative I'm trying to push and I think I'm winning the contest. So let us know in the next question.
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A
Next question.
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B
Okay, so my favorite non round indie watch is. Okay, I've got two answers. I got the obvious one which isn't going to surprise anybody. The Bernard Mirage. It's an independent. It's a major independent, so maybe that's cheating somewhat. I'm going to go right to the other end of the price spectrum for my second answer and choose a watch which currently isn't online, but I have a feeling may return in the near future. And this is any of the peekaboo pendant watches from Bernay Watch. So they're like a little lipstick shaped sized watch. They were very popular in the past in the 60s and the 70s and even before that you could get them made by many different brands. I've got a Jaquet DRO one. I know there's some like JLC ones floating around out there. They're great little collectibles. If you like this kind of non wrist bound watch, then you can find them normally on Etsy for a reasonable price. And oftentimes the cases come in like enamel surfaces or engine turn surfaces. And they're very interesting and they are super cute and a great little niche of the industry to explore. So I love Bernay. We met with Carol, who is the leader of the brand at Time to Watchers last year in March, April, whenever it was. And we have been talking to her recently about trying to do something a bit exciting on a platform like that. And so for me, I would say any peekaboo pendant watch from Bernay or other brand. Exactly. Peekaboo. Peekaboo. Very nice. And bracelets we're talking about now as well. Hmm. I heard the back end of your description of the Ming titanium bracelet. It's kind of hard to overlook that. I mean, how can we not say that that's the most exciting bracelet development in recent years. The way they print it with all those links connected and then kind of like snap it into form is ridiculously cool.
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A
I'm going to counter you though. But do you remember the one that Ming did with Fleming and Shapiro that was really cool as well. Maybe Ming's just like the best at bracelets.
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B
Well, look, Ming is an innovator. That much we can definitely say. And the, the three way collab they did on the tantalum bracelet for the tantalum watches of those three brands was for me more impressive from a marketing, storytelling, partnership, projection perspective than it was the product itself. I honestly can't even picture the link formation or the link format of that tantalum bracelet right now. But I cannot get the titanium mesh out of my head. You can. What's it like then? Describe it to the listeners.
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A
Cool.
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It's super cool.
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A
No, it just had this really nice sort of flexibility to it. Like a kind of not, not to the point where it felt like, you know, really loose and kind of flimsy in your hands. I never actually saw it in the flesh, which was the sad part, but it was. I don't know. You're right. If I think from a marketing standpoint it's really interesting that one strap is specifically designed to fit these three watches from different brands. But yeah, you're right about Ming. He is definitely an innovator and going against the grain in a way that only benefits the industry, I think.
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B
I mean, I'VE been really vocal about the need for more creative bracelet design in high end watchmaking for years. Because in the 70s it was almost more important than the case. You know, people wore watches in a different way, I think, and there was much less watch head and much more bracelet, relatively speaking. So perhaps it was given prominence in the minds of designers and obviously independent standalone companies like Gay Freres, who were one of the leaders in that space. And now in the last couple of years, we've seen things like Ming experimenting in that way. We've seen the very successful Disco Volante bracelet for Ferland Mary's very cool round watch. That's like a flying Mary Ferland Mary. Aye, that lads. And who else have we got now? There was someone else, Denison, recently coming out with a, a super thin, super wearable, beautiful bracelet for the ALD case, which, you know, was a question how they're going to do it, because the space that they've got underneath that case lip where the, the lugs are, the hidden lugs are, is minimal and they did a great job and it just elevates that product to a new level. So, yeah, I will say, well, since you said the Ming, I'll say the new Denison bracelet. But I think that that titanium mesh from the Ming is just an extremely interesting step forward.
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A
Okay, I'm going to ask you the next question from our community, which is for the super bowl winners, which is obviously coming up very soon, what watch would you give them instead of a Super bowl ring?
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B
Well, it would have to be a custom made watch, I guess because it's a very special moment in time. There aren't many watches that focus on the super bowl itself and those that do are not, in my opinion, very desirable. And that's me saying that as a die hard NFL follower, I have been for 37 years. So not new to the party, of course. Moritz Grossman famously makes their super bowl result watch which has the score on the dial. And even though I love German watchmaking and love Moritz Grossman and love American football, I do not love the combination of those three things. The Lombardi Trophy, which is what's given to the winners of the super bowl every year, is I believe, made by Tiffany. So I'd give them Tiffany watches for sure. And I would probably take the same tack as they do with the modern super bowl rings, which are incredible pieces of jewelry. If you've never seen super bowl rings before, then it really is worthwhile. Even if you're not a fan of football and even not a fan of jewelry. Go and have a look at the currently 59 different Super bowl rings that have been made for each set of champions every year in recent times. Yeah, they're not just enormous, but they're almost not animated. But you can interact with them. Like, you can pull the top off and there's the stadium carved within it. Or you can slide parts of them out to reveal different things. Each one is normally decorated with a certain number of gemstones that represents a certain something for the team. For example, how many players are on the roster or how many points they scored in the particular game that was iconic on their march to victory. It's an incredible feat of engineering and art, and I would say let's do something like that made by Tiffany. So it has that Lombardi element to it and something really fun and something really cool. And a watch is maybe an even better format to express some of the shapes and sights and figures that you'd see in an American football stadium. Particularly so. Yeah, something made by Tiffany, custom for the winners.
- [25:19]
A
Sounds good. The next question I've had thrown my way is, should indie watches lean in more on digital smartwatch offerings? My immediate answer to this is no, because smart watches are polarizing at the best of times. Rob, I don't know if you own one.
- [25:41]
B
I do. Yeah. I own a Apple Watch Ultra 2. I bought it to see if they were any cop. I am quite impressed by it, to say the least. Some of its functionality is really cool. I love the depth gauge on it, which is just crazy how it works. As soon as you submerge the watch in water, it closes itself off from water ingress and it gives you an immediate to the 10 centimeter depth readout on the screen, which is perfectly legible underwater because of the screen format. And when you take the watch out of the water and you hold down one button for a few seconds, it ejects any water that has got inside the case, actually squirts it out. And it squirts out the water. You can see the water like, squirting out of like the speaker ingress, for example. It doesn't allow the water to get into the mechanism, but it just. Just pushes out all of the water that gets into it. And it's incredible to watch.
- [26:36]
A
Okay, maybe that's some borrowed tech that we should include on the more traditional side of the watch industry. I mean, I am an owner of a Tag Heuer Connected, which I use to exercise. But my reason for saying no is because I think if you're an indie brand, you're joining a very populated, densely populated watch market. And the reason why you're joining that market is because you feel you're offering something different and you have a unique standpoint. Otherwise, you know, what's the point? And I feel that with digital tech and smart timekeeping, I think there are so many great people that do that, but I don't see the beauty in it. In the same way, it doesn't speak to me. And I think for these independents, the reason why people choose to invest in it is in the independents is because they find something within these watches that they don't elsewhere. Smart watches are a bit homogenous. They all look different in some capacity, but they all kind of do the same thing. And yes, I know we argue that all watches tell the time, but they all, you know, they all offer something different. If I'm going to invest in an independent watch brand, I'm doing it because I care about the beliefs of that company or I find myself in a watch. And I think if you add that digital element, it takes the magic away of it somehow. But to counter that, there is one example where I will say it was done well, and I think it's because it came into their history a lot later on. It wasn't their first offering, and that would be Moza with their Streamliner Alpine Mechanics edition that they bought out last year. I got to spend time with that watch, and I appreciate how grateful I was to be able to do this, of using the watch in the intended circumstances and environment it was created for, which was at an F1 race. To see the kind of hybrid of this watch between mechanical and digital was really fascinating. And from afar, it does kind of look like any other mechanical Moser. But seeing it kind of come to life in these messages that vibrate on the wrist, and the fact that the actual Alpine mechanics use it during the race and throughout all of the practices is a testament to them really nailing the digital side of things. Because, you know, we could talk on a whole other podcast about watch brands sponsoring sports teams and then wearing it for the photo op. And beyond that, not at all. But I think, you know, that that tech was is there to aid that Formula one team to get better data and to help them excel in their performance. So I think, if you're going to do it, do it with something niche like that, that. I'm not saying Formula one is niche, but I'm saying the way in which they've cultivated this watch as a means for data is quite niche. I think that was Job well done there. But I think nine times out of 10, no, like, I want to fall in love with an independent watch brand because it's doing what most of us are fighting for, which is making people fall in love with mechanical watches again.
- [29:50]
B
Yeah, I mean, there's a lot of interesting points that you raise there, and I agree with all of them. I think I would say, like, if I were to try and succinctly define the difference between smart or even quartz timekeeping versus mechanical, is that one tracks the seconds and one exists for the moments. You know, there's a difference between them emotionally, massively. You wear your smartwatch, your tag for sport. I wear my Apple watch for sport. Never any other reason. And I'm not saying there's no design in those pieces. Of course there are, especially in yours, because it echoes the Carrera case shape. Right. And the Ultra 2 is a cool looking thing. It's well made, it's machine titanium. It looks great for what it is, but they're not artful pieces in the way that we expect our mechanical timepieces to be. When it comes to this Moza Alpine collab, am I right in thinking that Sequent developed the module?
- [30:47]
A
Yeah, they did, yeah.
- [30:49]
B
So this is, this is great, actually. It's a great angle to take because for a long time, Adrian, Adrian Bookman, who's the, the man behind Sequent and some of the greatest designs of our generation, tried this hybrid technology, the sort of Bluetooth functionality that adds a little bit of function to an analog watch that looks otherwise like a more traditional timepiece. A while ago, a few months ago, I think around September, I was on air saying, I'm kind of done with that now. I love Adrian. I love what he's doing. I love the fact that he brought back some kinetic powered quartz, because I love that. And I think there should be more of that. But I'm thinking, you know, we've tried this thing now, and I think it's kind of clear that we, we don't want a halfway house. We want one or the other, and we want them both for completely different things. However, this collab with Moza is really interesting because it's been deployed on the perfect platform. Like you said, F1. It's actually specifically being used by the mechanics in a real life race situation. But also it's F1. And we often draw parallels between Formula One and brands like Hublot as being the skunk works of the industries, you know, car industry and watch industry, and the things that we discover through those top Level research programs filter down into our pockets or onto our driveways or onto our wrists or whatever it is. Like, this is incredibly important stuff that luckily is wrapped up in a bubble of entertainment to be sold to the masses to fund such research into new tech. So, I mean, there are a few things other than war and sport that move technology forward as quickly as this. And it's interesting to see something like that having a real function and also a desirability factor, which you obviously felt. I mean, you like it. I can can hear in your voice that you're quite thrilled by it, I.
- [32:33]
A
Think, because I just didn't anticipate, as you say, like, people don't want that hybrid. And there was a point where perhaps we felt like we were trying to force a foot into a shoe that wasn't fitting and people were a little bit done with it, but I just thought it worked. I think they really nailed it. And yeah, to go back to what I said, I don't think that watch got the airtime that it deserved. I think I could probably do a whole podcast on that watch. But Rob, we have not even got into LVMH Watch week.
- [33:06]
B
Before we do, though, there is one other model that sticks out in my mind as a, as something that could really maybe benefit from the same kind of tech that we see in Moza. And again, it has like a niche application and that's the Breitling Aerospace, one of my favorite watches of all time. One of the most prolific multifunction quartz watches out there in the luxury sector. What about if Breitling started experimenting with this same kind of sequent powered tech? Would that not be interesting as an evolution for the aerospace?
- [33:33]
A
I think so, yeah. I mean, it's about you and I obviously are intrigued by it, but I don't know what the mass opinion is on it, honestly. Like, maybe there's a reason why these watches aren't so frequent and a bit few and far between because, you know, people want to have their amazing mechanical watches and then they have their smartwatch exactly as you and I do to put on for when you do your 15 minutes of exercise, maybe longer. You know, when you do that exercise and then you take it off, you shower and then you put your other watch back on. I don't know. I just don't know that the appetite is there yet. But that's not to say it won't be.
- [34:10]
B
So one quick follow up before we move on to the next question, because I want your opinion on this, the release strategy of that MOSA Was particularly noteworthy because it wasn't released for purchase to the public. It was only available to people that bought the mechanical corollary. Is that correct?
- [34:26]
A
Yeah, I think it was the one that they bought out. I can't remember the date of when it was, but if they already owned that one, they could then get it. Or you bought the two as a pair.
- [34:36]
B
Now, was that a deliberate strategy by Moza to protect against the possibility that had they launched this onto the market, it would have bombed? Any thoughts on that?
- [34:44]
A
Kind of gives you that assurance that you have a mechanical watch and the smartwatch in your hand. So you. Yeah, maybe.
- [34:51]
B
Because, you know, you're absolutely right. Like, what is the demand for these pieces? Are they interesting? Yes. Are they academically worth discussing? Absolutely, absolutely. Could they be the progenitor of something wild and wonderful that will become commonplace in the future? Maybe. But what's the commercial potential for them right now? Maybe Moser thought, hmm, we've got an idea for something that's kind of cool, but it's maybe just a bit too wacky for the public right now. So rather than risk it, we. We do basically a closed release. It was an interesting strategy to globally announce it, to have it nominated for the gphg, but for it not to be able to be bought by people that wanted that specific watch, I think gives them an opportunity to gauge what that interest is without them having to end up with egg on their face. Potentially.
- [35:34]
A
Yeah. It was also an argument for how people actually release watches. You know, in this day and age. I think I've always been most enticed by the watches where I've never actually received the press release, not because I'm not on a mailing list, but because they didn't want to let people know and they've just dropped it. And I think, I don't know, there's something to be said about the marketing technique. Yes. From a data perspective of let's see if people are actually interest, but also in terms of, like when I use the word hype here, I don't mean it's a hype watch and will last 24 hours, but to see, you know, what kind of response it gets. But also, we're forgetting the obvious fact here that it is an Alpine branded watch as well. So it is for a very specific section of humanity. And as a Ferrari fan, I wouldn't purchase it myself, but I'm fascinated by the tech behind it. Next question we should roll onto. Which makes me sad. Someone asked me if I bought the Chopard that I really wanted. You can tell by my morose tone that I did not get it, because when I went to go on Chrono 24 and find it, maybe one of the community had already clocked on to how great of a purchase it was and bought it. So it wasn't actually there when I wanted to buy it and I had the funds in my account, which was sad. And then I got haunted a little bit more by going to the Chopard manufacturer again to see their museum, and it was just there in the vitrine staring at me. Obviously that one was in insane condition. So I will get it. At some point in my life. We are meant to be together, but the timing at the moment just isn't right. So I'll work through my issues, it will work through its issues, and then hopefully we'll end up in holy matrimony together at some point. But. But I am looking at other watches, to be quite frank, at the moment. I'm kind of investing some of my pennies into books about watchmaking and horology and trying to read a bit more. So I don't necessarily like my Chrono 24 likelist is not like popping at the moment. I'm purposely not looking because the frustration is high and January's already bleak. I don't need to make it worse for myself by falling in love with watches I can't afford, but such as the malaise of the watch industry for all of us. However, I do feel like I should give two mentions to two watches that I do love that are absolutely out my fucking price range, but I feel like they represent two sides of my personality. So the first one is the Hermes Clickti Kazak, which for anybody that hasn't seen it, is like the Kelly, but on crack. It's really cool. I saw it for the first time at the end of last year, and it sort of is like a series of little metal rectangles attached with these sort of really oversized links. And it sort of pays homage to these kind of pageant horses that used to have head ornaments. And they'd produce these kind of like clicking sounds of like the metal moving against each other. And they're all diamond set, but like really cool setting on, like, diagonals and things like that. And then they've done them in a few different versions as well. The one that I particularly liked was in Burgundy, so it also does have a kind of bracelet feel to it as well. It is a little bit hybridy between the two because it does have a strap, but because of these Links that stretch quite far across the top of the wrist. It sort of from the front looks like a metal bracelet and then from the other side of your wrist, it looks like a leather strap. So I really like that. And then I really, really want this watch. I don't know the price of it and I've made a point of not finding out the price of it. You'll probably know, but it's the Gerard Perregaux Playboy moon from the 1960s. I don't want to talk about it any further because the love runs deep. Also, just think the fact that it's called a Playboy Moon as well is really cool. But yeah, those are the two currently on my hit list. Two very different watches. I think Rob is just searching it now to see what it looks like.
- [40:07]
B
I wouldn't do that to you. I wouldn't do that to you at all. No, I was just, I was thinking the way you're talking about these watches has given me a new idea for a business. That's right. I think Chrono24 should deploy some kind of Tinder esque, swiping, like, game that you can play with watches because you sound like seriously in love with these pieces, like in a disturbing way.
- [40:26]
A
Well, you have to be, don't you? Like, you have to really care about these things.
- [40:29]
B
I don't know. I compartmentalize my proclivities.
- [40:33]
A
I think I've just been sat at my desk probably a bit too long today. Going a bit mad. I'm now, yeah, it was onion crowns and now it's Playboy Moons and Horses. I don't know. For me, for me to buy a watch, I have to. It's the same with how I buy anything, whether that's brick and mortar or online. If I see it and I'm still thinking about it 24 hours later and I don't own it. I need to own it. Not need, but you know what I mean.
- [41:06]
B
That's a pretty good, pretty good test, I think, to step away and like, not let the moment overtake you.
- [41:11]
A
You, if it's there, I love it. And it's not my size. It's not meant to be.
- [41:15]
B
Yeah, of course. I mean, it has to fit, right and yeah, that's true in all walks of life. So, yeah, I hope that you do, at some point manage to snare your true love. Me too. I do feel really bad for you because it was awful timing. It was really a matter of hours. I think that, you know, it was.
- [41:34]
A
750 quid as well. And it's like, oh, it was such good condition. And there was another one that was more expensive, but it had a crack in it and I'm like, oh, well, now I have a crack in my heart. Oh, God.
- [41:46]
B
Bloody hell.
- [41:47]
A
I know.
- [41:49]
B
Aren't you pretty close to Chopard, though? Couldn't you buy, like, a really knackered one and send it in for a full service for a few hundred quid and just get it absolutely box fresh?
- [41:58]
A
Not sure about that, but no, no, I want, like, I like to make life hard for myself if I want to do. I remember referring to this as, like, my first big girl purchase. Like, I want to be out in the field and find it in some random place and, you know, like, I wanted to. It's a love that I clearly have to fight for and therefore I must accept whatever course it takes for me to be reunited with this watch.
- [42:31]
B
It's kind of powerful to listen to you speak like this. Like, I wish you all the best in your. In your mission to track down and to right this terrible wrong that's befallen you. You deserve that.
- [42:42]
A
It's a really hard life, isn't it?
- [42:44]
B
It's awful, yeah. If we're still talking about watchers and not Ricardo the pool boy from the all inclusive in Portugal, then I feel for you. Otherwise, I've become a less humble rambler. Yeah, you're far from a humble rambler right now. I have accidentally stumbled across. I just dropped my phone and accidentally typed Gerard Perregaux Playboy moon dial circa 1960s, and I found out how much it costs.
- [43:08]
A
Go on.
- [43:09]
B
Do you want me to tell you?
- [43:11]
A
Yeah.
- [43:12]
B
I found one here for €3,374.95. So I haven't done any research into this watch. I must admit, it's the first time I've ever seen it. It is a gp, so it's obviously got some good brand provenance, but that seems like quite a lot for this watch. It is probably more iconic than I realized because it has a price tag to reflect that. But I think you just focus on that Chopard, up your budget by 2 or 300 quid and just keep your fingers crossed. If anyone's listening that owns what Scarlett's talking about, then please do let us know if you want to sell it.
- [43:44]
A
If you called Charlotte and you've got it, there will be hell.
- [43:48]
B
Okay, well, watch out if that is the case, because she means business. Yeah, nice one. What if there was a Charlotte listening that was like, oh, Scarlett's my hero. I want to sell her this watch, and then you've just threatened her life.
- [44:00]
A
No, not threatened her life, just her watch collection. Yeah.
- [44:05]
B
Oh, okay. So, yeah, I'm sorry you didn't buy that because you were so excited about it at the time. And I have to say I'm in full agreement with you that that is a wonderful watch and it really would suit you. So, taking that as a segue, let's move on to the next question that touches upon the exact opposite of us being in agreement. Argument. Is there a watch that you have opinions on in an opposite direction, I. E. One of you loves it and the other despises it. Now, Scarlett came up with the great idea that we attack this question through the lens of LVMH Watch Week. So we're gonna go through some releases. Do you wanna list the ones you love and me respond to them whether I love them or hate them, or do you want to do it even more formulaically? Exactly.
- [44:53]
A
Let's do it that way. I'll give the watch an introduction and then you offer your two cents. So for anybody that doesn't know LVMH Watch Week kickstarted yesterday, it's taking place in Milan. Rob and I are not in Milan. We are calling from our respective. Where are you, Rob? Actually, I don't know.
- [45:16]
B
I'm in my office in Dresden.
- [45:17]
A
You're in your office, I'm in my living room. And Rob's just cracking open what looks like a box of crackers. First up, Hublot. Hublot is Marmite for sure, but I happen to love Marmite, and I really like Hublot, and I stand by that and have many reasons to endorse it, one being their recent launch with the joker, Novak Djokovic. Now, obviously, this isn't news that they're in partnership and he's a brand ambassador. We've seen several iterations of collaborative watches between the two parties before, but this new selection, I feel like, shows something different about Hublot's standpoint. And to go into that a little bit further and having an interview with Julien Tonard last week to discuss the launches, we do talk of Hublot as a disruptor, but I think the point being here is that we think about that in terms of their marketing a lot of the time. And Julien raises a fair point that we don't necessarily talk about their. Their watchmaking. And, you know, we're talking about a brand here that's around 45 years old. It's in the same portfolio as other LVMH watch brands that carrying hundreds of years behind them. So Zenith and Tag, just to take two, for instance, and I feel the fact that they're putting such a precedent on now and making sure that they have their own in house Unico movements in a lot of their watches gives them the sort of space to shout a little bit more and say we want to be taken more seriously for our technical abilities. We see Hublot showcase these technical abilities with their ceramics and things like that. Not their ceramics, their sapphires, also their ceramics actually, but mainly their sapphires in a really interesting way. And what we've seen with previous iterations of the Djokovic collaboration is them take his Lacoste polo shirts and his head racket and put that into a composite in which it is the case of the watch and you are quite literally owning a piece of Djokovic history. So that's happening again here for this collaboration, except there's more of a precedent on high complication watchmaking here. So in honour of all of his victories, they've created this trilogy of 101 watches divided into three color iterations. So there's the blue which is representing the hardcore, orange representing clay, and green is obviously representing grass. And they've matched this up with his record breaking achievement achievements. So with each of those colors you've got the allocation of number of watches representing the ATP titles played on those surfaces, whether it be hard clay or grass. And grass is the most exclusive one because there's only eight pieces of those. So beyond that, what's interesting here is the actual movement that's going on and the engineering that's happened on the movement in this watch. Again, I haven't seen it in the flesh, but. But what I believe they've done is taken the main plate and sort of laser engraved these stripes into it that sort of showcase a racket kind of shape on the back. And I believe they're like 0.55 millimeters, like apart or something minuscule like that. So it gives this kind of 3D effect to it, which sounds very cool. Then they've sort of changed the power reserve barrels to look like tennis balls as well with the rotor. They've got his logo on it as well. They've kind of really gone to town on customizing this movement, particularly because it's come from Djokovic's request as well of him expressing that he is really into high complicated watches. And I think it's a nice way. We know Hublot as a brand that likes to do collaborations and we're seeing that with some of the other Launches they've got during LVMH watch week, for instance, with Samuel Ross. But I don't know, this one feels a bit different to me. It's like them really sort of flexing their technical muscles and being like, you know, please take us seriously. Like, yes, we're disruptive by design, but we do have the know how too. I'm gonna start saying savoir fleur, flair, savoir faire. But they do have that know how to create something different. And the result is a movement that just completely is tennis obsessed. I think it's really cool.
- [49:30]
B
I love it as well. I'm a big fan of these collaborations. I adored the last Djokovic collab they did, which was the first one to use this composite material in the case, which contained shreds and fragments of his polo shirts and rackets. And did they put his shoes in there as well or was it just polo shirts and rackets? I can't remember.
- [49:50]
A
It was just rackets and polos, I believe.
- [49:52]
B
I mean, that's really cool. And what I loved about that previous collab, which had a sort of light blue case, sort of semi translucent, was the bright yellow or green, if you prefer accents echoing the color of a tennis ball ball, which I thought was awesome. Now, that color does appear on these three models on the back side of the barrel. You can see it when you turn them over and have a look through the display window on the case back. And for me, that's a bit of a shame because I. I loved that accent. I would have loved to have seen that paired with the green of the Wimbledon or not Wimbledon, the green of the grass court edition. And I think that that's. They maybe missed a little bit of a trick there. But I love the concept. I love the way they've delved into all of Djokovic's ATP titles and made each edition limited to the numbers 1 on those specific court types.
- [50:41]
A
I'm pretty sure that they anodized like each tourbillon a different colour as well. For the three iterations they have gone.
- [50:48]
B
To Tyne on it. And I mean, it's interesting to hear you say what you're saying about like Hublot making this push to be taken seriously mechanically. You are right. The more I think about it that people don't often get to the technical brilliance of Hublot. They get stuck on the aesthetics and whatnot. I've been a huge fan. I think the Real Time show is one of the weirdest podcasts in the world, considering all four main hosts love Hublot. And it's generally a bit of a pariah in. In the sort of journalism community for no good reason. It. I. I never understood it. I think I was wooed by Hublot in 2015 when they took me out to the opening of Hublot 2 in neon. And I got to walk around the foundry and I saw the kind of work they were doing, and I got to play with magic gold for the first time, and I got to test its scratch resistance. They are absolutely confident in what they're creating, and they're creating stuff that nobody else is getting close to. So they're Saxon materials, their ceramics, like you fast ceramics. Hublot were the first in the industry to do it, you know, with the bright reds, blues and yellows. They were trailblazers in that field. And the sapphire cases are extremely hard to make. They have highest QC failure rate of any case I've ever heard of. And Hublot deserves plaudits for even attempting such wild and wacky stuff, so. APPLAUSE thank you. So, I agree. I love it. No disagreement here.
- [52:07]
A
Okay, perfect. The next launch I would like to talk about is the Tiffany timer. I don't know if you have seen it yet, Rob, but, oh, my God. My first impression on seeing it was like, fuck, it's cool. To give a little bit of context. So it's the 160th anniversary of the Tiffany timing watch, which apparently was one of America's first stopwatches, introduced in 1866. So this is a reinterpretation of the Tiffany timer that we're seeing. Limited to 60 pieces, it's 40 mil in 950 platinum. The point that I probably should mention first, but I kind of want to leave until last, is this gorgeous Tiffany blue dial. It's been judged up with some very nice diamond baguettes for the hour markers. And on the back, lest we Forget, there's an 18k gold version of a Tiffany in CO. But bird, bird on a rock on the. The rotor. I think it's really cool. I like the fact, and this is something I'm noticing more and more. I know every band goes back into the archives and pays homage, but I think to kind of set the tone for the year, lvmh collectively. Let me just double check this. Yeah, we're seeing three models across the respective brands in the portfolio that have gone into the archives and chosen a model and done a reinterpretation. And I think that three that they rightfully picked them like. I'm very happy with this watch. I would love it. I will let you say your two cents and then I want to talk a little bit about the movement.
- [53:47]
B
Do I disagree with you on this one? Unfortunately for tc, you ask the question. No, mate, sorry. I am fully in agreement. I'm having a hot flush. It is one of the most beautiful colors on a dial. Well, in the industry. It's not the first time we've seen Tiffany Blue on a dial of course, but it's just, it's intoxicating, it drags you in, it's gorgeous. It's got a multi level dial, it's got diamond applied indexes. It just looks the business. So now thumbs up Tiffany.
- [54:14]
A
Is this really controversial? If I say that I would have this in a heartbeat over the Nautilus?
- [54:19]
B
No, I don't think it's controversial at all because I mean the Nautilus is a different thing, isn't it? I mean some can sort of point to it being neither one nor the other. Like it's a very high end color between two very high end companies and this is entirely Tiffany's. So why not take this instead of.
- [54:35]
A
Yeah, I think it's great. The one thing we're seeing here with this watch as well is the El Primero 400 movement inside as well. Obviously it's not news that we're seeing LVMH's sort of movement strategy and you know, that aims to be considered a movement manufacturer and sort of have this in house, singular supply chain. But I think it's interesting that we're seeing this zenith El Primero movement being used here. And that is a wider comment to a couple of releases we're seeing for LVMH watch week that are using zenith movements or customized zenith movements specifically with Genta. But yeah, I think there's definitely something to be said about that. A lot of us are kind of watching LVMH seeing how this rollout of them as a movement manufacturer is going to run. I think eyes peeled a little bit more. But I think, you know, we have a great watch in terms of design and a great movement inside it. Like, you know, I think.
- [55:32]
B
What's the price though? Do you have it in front of you?
- [55:35]
A
Apparently in US dollars, which is unfortunately the only currency I can, I can give to you. Thank you Monochrome for doing the hard work. Is 55,000.
- [55:45]
B
Okay, that is pretty. That is half what I was expecting. One thing we didn't mention about these hublots from before is that they're all around 100k or over, which is a significant increase on the previous Djokovic Collab which was 56,700. I know that because. Because I frequently look at it and wish it were mine. So 55k for a full platinum Tiffany blue diamond dial. Sexy beast with a primero in this day and age. It's not crazy, right?
- [56:16]
A
It's pretty good. I'm also just looking at it properly now and if any of the community are doing so too. There's kind of a lot going on on the dial, but somehow it works. And I don't know if it's because this Tiffany shade shade is kind of. It's not an energetic shade by any means. It's quite calming, it's quite soothing. But I think the fact that obviously with the, the chronographs and the date window, the fact that they've kept the consistency of that Tiffany blue across and didn't, you know, use like enamel or white or anything like that, I'm quite happy with because, you know, you have got the diamonds going on too. Like there is a lot. But somehow it all just feels quite streamlined.
- [57:02]
B
So the more I looked at it, the less I thought this. But the initial reaction I had to it was looks a bit like a Carrera, like the layout. And I don't know whether that kind of like. Like I say, the more I studied them I was like, oh, it's different here, it's different there. But then I was thinking maybe the reason why it feels so comfortable on the eye is it's proportionally like a well established formula that they're following because that layout is great. And the steps in the dial, or the big step in the dial from around the exterior chapter ring and then the diamonds as well. They could be a lot, but I think it all comes together wonderfully. So thumbs up.
- [57:37]
A
Okay, so we're in agreeance on that one. Eventually we'll disagree. I think maybe we will on this next one. I don't know. But continuing that conversation, I was saying about seeing LVMH bring back a few icons from the past or maybe lesser known icons. Zenith. We're seeing another revival, a defy revival finally. Oh, with the A3643. So this is paying.
- [58:10]
B
Don't like it.
- [58:13]
A
Okay, go on.
- [58:14]
B
No, I don't want to interrupt. Cat. Carry on. Don't mind me.
- [58:20]
A
Right, go on, say your two cents.
- [58:22]
B
No, it's fine. I don't want to interrupt you.
- [58:25]
A
You've already done the damage.
- [58:26]
B
I'm not a fan.
- [58:27]
A
Carry on.
- [58:27]
B
No, that's fine.
- [58:28]
A
Don't take it out on the Mic. Don't take it out on the mic.
- [58:31]
B
Rob just knocked over my microphone.
- [58:33]
A
Didn't do anything to you. We've seen several reissues from the year of 1969 for Zenith and we have another one now. I think what's kind of nice here in a way was it watches and wonders two years ago when we had that kind of orange and black. Can't remember the specific model off the top of my head.
- [58:52]
B
I think it must have been because I think there was a yellow and black one last year. I think we've had two of this.
- [58:58]
A
But you know, we're seeing a continuation of this heritage line with Zenith and you know, if we compare it to a lot of the other defy models in their collection, there's a very different design language going on. I'm very much more in line with these kind of models that do speak to icons of the past. And what I do like here, first of all, I do just love a ladder bracelet. But that's not the new part here. What we're seeing is this sort of silver tone dial and these really nice sort of two tier profile hour markers which brings a nice little pop, I think, to, to the, the dial. I don't have loads to say on it, but I do like it.
- [59:45]
B
Yeah, okay. Well, I probably don't have a huge amount more to say, but I don't like it and I want to, I really want to. I love Benoit. I love the fact that he's leading Zenith at the minute and I wish him all the best in that role. But I've just never been able to get on board with this family, this K shape. What I do appreciate is that it's different and that it's always been trying to be edgy from its origin days up until its re release in recent memory. But I just think it's a bit ugly. I think the dial is a bit boring. I think the hand length is questionable, especially the seconds hand and I think that it just sits like a brick. And you know, the ladder bracelet is one of the finest bracelets ever made. But here it doesn't feel like it can control that watch head. I feel like it's sort sort of wrestling against it. Yeah, I just, I don't like it as a proposition. I don't like the way that comes together. I like a lot of stuff as NF does and I adore the movements, I really do. I don't think that the pricing is crazy for it given what it is and who's made it 7,800 bucks. But that's. There's just not enough about this watch that compels me to buy it. I can think of huge numbers of watches that I would buy prior to this one.
- [61:02]
A
So I think, I think I. I definitely prefer re editions that they've done in previous years. Speaking of that one from Watches and Wonders two years ago. But for me, I think the Zenith catalog, a lot of it is very skeletonized, it's very big, you know, it is all very integrated bracelet kind of thing. And for me it's quite chunky. And conversely, you know, a lot of the women's options are quite pink and there are a lot of diamonds. And I'm not slagging them off there by any means because there are people that want those watches. But for me, where I find myself most with Z Zenith, which is a brand where, let's not lie, it has a phenomenal history and their manufacturer alone is an incredible place to visit. I feel more akin and more attached to Zenith through these defy revival models. So I like it. I'm intrigued to see what a next kind of reissue would look like. How far do you take this reissue sort of chapter? At what point? Because also people take a lot of issues with paying homage to the past and literally doing a copy and paste and not changing too much other than updating the technology. There is the argument for that as well. And I know that Zenith tried to stay as close to the original as possible in a way where perhaps Tag Heuer and we'll come on to them in a second, they maybe pay homage, but try and put forwarded the design a little bit more as well.
- [62:28]
B
You see, I actually like that in general. That's something that I would support most brands doing. Not messing around with the source material too much and just giving us the watch that we all want. My question is how many people really want this? But the answer to that question is probably enough. Especially you. I mean, you've just. You've given Zenith exactly the reasoning they need to make this model justified. They don't need me to like it. They don't need anyone else to like it. They don't need 90% of their clients to like it. But if it is the watch, the Zenith or the family that people like you connect with where the other ones don't connect with you, then it's a success. Because I'd buy another Zenith. I'm not anti Zenith in the least. I love the brand. I love the El Primero. So all I'm saying is this one really not for me, I'm really glad it's for you, and I hope it's for enough other people to make the line a success.
- [63:21]
A
I mean, above all, I would love a GFJ from Zenith. But, you know, you mentioned the price point there.
- [63:25]
B
Are we still the humble Rambler, or are we now, like the lofty Rambler?
- [63:31]
A
Okay, fine on me, Ron. So I mentioned TAG Heuer there, so we may as well segue into tag. So we're seeing the launch of the Seafarer, which is obviously a continuation as well from them drawing on their maritime heritage. So we saw the skipper in 2023, I think it was. I mean, first and foremost, when you look at this watch, yes, it's taken the design cues of the model from 1949, I believe. But the color palette I am down for. I really like it. And I know there's obviously the Abercrombie and Fitch model that they brought out. I thought. I don't know what year that was from off the top of my head. Do you know, Rob?
- [64:15]
B
It was, I think, 30s. No, I think it was 1949.
- [64:21]
A
49, okay. I just think it's a really great standpoint for tag, I think, particularly in an age where TAG Heuer is being criticized for being very mass. And, you know, we can't deny the fact that their attention over the past 18 months has been in its marketing and with Formula One and, you know, lowering the entries for people to get a TAG Heuer on their wrist with things like the Formula one solograph and things like that, like the Hoya universe. If I could learn the history of one watch brand inside out, it would be Hoya like. It's such a rabbit hole. And I'm sure so many of our listeners are so far down that rabbit hole. Like, I have such a soft spot for Heuer that I think these kind of reissues that they do excite me and propel me more to fall down that rabbit hole. And it's, I think, a perfect reminder of the history that this brand has. You know, there are so many TAG Heuer, the Heuer Summit that they do every year, for instance, with, you know, all of those collectors, they are still part of the TAG Heuer universe and want to find themselves in these watches. I can't speak on behalf of them and know if they like this watch or not, but I hope it's a kind of bid for them to see. Like, you know, yes, we're putting watches. We're making smart watches. We're making Formula one solar graphs, and, you Know, we're bringing down the barrier to entry so we can see more people still have their first watch as TAG Heuer as opposed to, you know, the opposite end where they're bringing out the ratchet on the Monaco's and spending so much on their tech there. I feel like it's TAG being like we still really care about that clientele that loved Hoya, loved the kind of evolution from that and kind of maybe want a bit of that old TAG team that.
- [66:19]
B
I think it's a really interesting take. I don't disagree with it at all. It's. It's nicely put and perhaps you're right. I've never had much love for TAG Heuer as I think listeners for show will know. I did love the Heuer brand and I like a lot of those more vintage pieces. I've been impressed with the refinements made to the Carrera over the last couple of years. I'm a big fan of what they've done with the dial and the minute track around the outside, you know, bringing a bit more of a sculptural aspect into the case. But I can't believe I don't like this watch. Teal and sort of mustard and gold and opaline white dial. It sounds like a dream, but for me it's summery.
- [67:02]
A
It feels summery.
- [67:03]
B
So yeah, it is summery. It's light. The thing that it reminds me of visually immediately the most of recent times is the Norqaine ice cream inspired chronograph that had the.
- [67:13]
A
It's so funny you say that I said to someone the other day, reminds me of ice cream. Looking at this dial and they were like, what the fuck are you on about?
- [67:19]
B
No, I 100% feel it. But it's not so much the ice cream cream as it is maybe like the sort of stripey outfit you can imagine an ice cream salesperson.
- [67:25]
A
It's the palette. Yeah, it's the soft palate.
- [67:28]
B
The palette feels like a warm summer's day on the English seaside. And you know, got a chalk ice.
- [67:32]
A
But then my question, question, do you love a chalk ice? I haven't had one of them in a long time. My question to you, maybe we could get sponsored by chalk ice.
- [67:41]
B
We need more chalk and less ice though. Do you never think that, like the chalk is too thin? Like I want a big, I want.
- [67:45]
A
A big thick bit of chalk. You know, when you like bite into it sometimes and the ice cream is actually too cold and it's like it's always too cold.
- [67:52]
B
It's Ice cream cream, dice cream.
- [67:58]
A
To go back to. What the was my point now? Oh, yeah. In 2020. 2023, when they bought. Was that not your point?
- [68:05]
B
Are we done with Choco sponsorship now?
- [68:07]
A
Move on.
- [68:08]
B
Best idea you've had all day off.
- [68:12]
A
In 2023 when they bought out the reissue of the Skipper. Did you like that?
- [68:20]
B
I wanted to make it more again.
- [68:22]
A
You're just. You're not a maritime man.
- [68:25]
B
I kind of object to that. I think. I think I'm probably more Maritime focused than 90% of the people.
- [68:31]
A
Mario, time or maritime?
- [68:34]
B
Well, I don't mind spending time with Mario. He's a nice chap, you know, but no, I said maritime. I think, I think might be a Freudian slip.
- [68:40]
A
It's a me Mario.
- [68:44]
B
And I might buy a Mario themed watch, I guess. But, you know, I'm not a computer gamer. I like boats. I like being on the water. I actually like doing it. But this, I don't know. Look, Scarlet, I want to like it, but I think you know what it is that gets me.
- [68:57]
A
You gotta see it in person.
- [68:58]
B
Right? Okay, I'll hold my hands up. I have not seen it in person. I 100% believe that I could fall head over heels for it in person. But those indexes, they look cheap. I'm sorry. I looked at them and I was like, what are they? Are they citrines? That's cool. I love citrines. I was like, no, wait. They're gold plated applied indexes with quite sort of sharp angling on the sides. They look pressed that really. That's the price point on a 8,300 francs. I think off the top of my head, what is that?
- [69:28]
A
Maybe that maybe the Hoya purists aren't gonna like it.
- [69:31]
B
Well, I don't know. Look, I. What are the redeeming features? The dial layout is very cool. The color scheme is beautiful. Does it hang together well? I think it actually does. It just doesn't touch me. I'm just. I'm trying to remove my own sort of strangely negative reaction to it from what it actually is. I do think those indexes leap out in not the best way, I have to say.
- [69:52]
A
Okay, that's fun. You know, I will say though, for tag, in the same way that I shared this sentiment about Hublot, I think they're kind of veering back in the direction slowly of making sure people remember their watchmaking expertise. Which is why, you know, as I say, we have seen this huge TAG Heuer explosion within like the media. And every time you turn on the TV and you've got F1 on. You cannot avoid these logos to save your life. And you know, job well done there. Like they set out to do that and they've nailed it. But you know, we have to remember that the watchmaking, know how that they also have too is something that was once hugely celebrated and I think should continue to be celebrated. And I think just from like Geneva Watch days. Was it Geneva watch days? Yeah, and Dubai Watch week at the end of last year. Like the investment that they're putting into their technology is pretty wild. I think it was the hairspring that I saw being made and they developed this kind of tech and you know, it just looked like a little lab of petri dishes of like hairsprings. And I think there's something to be said about that, about, you know, we think of Tag and Hoya specifically as having that rich heritage, but they don't want to sit on their laurels with that. They are trying to be a bit more like avant garde with their future. I know every watch brand says that and I'm trying not to let my love of Tag Heuer overtake the point that I'm making here. But I think we should sort of watch this space a little bit more with how, how they're being perceived from a watchmaking perspective. Maybe not in this model. I agree. I think this model is more about looking back than it is probably looking forward. But you know, we think about the Monaco and the developments that they've had with the Rattrapant over the past couple of years. Obviously price point is the price point on that because of that tech. But yeah, Hublot and Tag Heuer, I'm like, I got my eyes on them a little bit more this year.
- [72:05]
B
See, I think they're kind of facing slightly different challenges in that that Hublot has been wrongly disrespected for a long time. They haven't really changed. They're maybe trying to tell the story a bit more overtly than they have done in the past, but I'm not sure I even agree with that. I mean they had like eight day power reserve, like barrels stacked up, lined alongside one another on a horizontal axis years and years ago. We've always been able to see like the, the wonder of Hublot's complications. It just wasn't enough to turn people towards the brand. In many cases they Tag, I wouldn't say they have an identity crisis. I think they might have a multiple identity crisis.
- [72:42]
A
Maybe because their catalog is so big. Like there are so Many consumers they're trying to identify. I went to an event the other day. When I say an event, it was a birthday party of a family friend. Everybody in that room that was over the age of 65 was wearing a tag on their wrist. But then I think at the other end of the spectrum of like so many 18 year olds that are still getting their first watch watched are getting a tag. And I'm like, yes, we say that that catalog they have is so big, but there's something very special about the fact that all ages of life own a TAG Heuer. Do you not think?
- [73:17]
B
I do think, and I think that you're right. And so what I'm not really saying when I say I think they have a multiple identity crisis is that they have too broad a portfolio in terms of price bracketing from bottom to top or from, from novelty to heritage. I think there are just maybe some distractions I think they could do without. And maybe the Seafarer is a perfect example of that. Because if I think to myself, well, if I were going into TAG and they said, right, we need you to cut down our collection because it's, it's bloated and we, we're kind of losing control of this juggernaut, I would say, okay, well what, what should go? I love the new Formula one models. I think they're great. That's the tag I'm most likely to buy. I think they're fun, I think they're fresh, I think they technology in a smart way and I just think they look really cool. So I'd buy one of those. And if I had an 18 year old son or daughter that was really into F1, on what their first watch, I'd say, hey, why don't you choose one of these? Because it's a good brand, it's got a great heritage, brilliant history. You'll never get tired of it. You'll find a load of other people into tag. It's a great entry into the community. So I wouldn't get rid of that. And then I think about the ultra, ultra, ultra high end and like the really crazy stuff that they have, they do actually maybe a little less than they did 10 or 15 years years ago. It's impressive and it reminds us of their watchmaking prowess. Could that be scythed away? I'll leave a maybe sign on that one. You look at the middle of the collection, the meat of it, and you've got your Carreras and you've got your Monaco's, and to be honest, you should have more Monza's. In my opinion, like those are the real graduation pieces. After you've had the Formula one quartz as your first watch, you buy a Monaco or you buy a Carrera or you buy a Monza when you're really into that whole racing thing. I keep all of those. I think they're absolutely essential. Essential. Sailing, seafaring. I don't need it. Like, I just don't need it. Like get rid of that and then maybe get rid of the top end. Like the best bit of TAG Heuer for me is because I bet you, I bet you all those people at the party you went to the other day over 60, 65, I bet you they weren't wearing like a micro girder. I bet you they were wearing a Monaco or a career era. Like I don't. And the younger ones may be wearing like an F1 quartz or something. Am I wrong?
- [75:36]
A
Yeah.
- [75:37]
B
Right. So I think like, okay, if you're an older person who's a fan of F1 or has grown up with a tag and maybe even the Hoya brand, maybe their parents wore Hoya for example, and it's a generational thing, I think that your, your landing zone with TAG is almost always going to be a Monaco or a Carrera or a Monster if you've got taste.
- [75:55]
A
Are you saying they should, should sort of stay within the automotive remit and kind of.
- [76:00]
B
Yeah, I think so. I think so. I think that's enough. I think they really have an inside track on that segment of the, of the market at that price point. Oh, hey, I didn't do that deliberately. I really didn't. Although that was, that was good. So if you've got like brands like Moza sponsoring Alpine and like Hublot doing like the Formula one version of stuff higher up the food chain. If I'm TAG Heuer, I'm thinking, right, I'm Formula one through and through. I'm racing, I'm automotive history. I have these, a pair of icons plus the Monza, which is actually my favorite for three, which is why I keep bringing it up. But you've got that incredible trio of case shapes there. Keep that. And then the entry level Formula one bin, everything else off.
- [76:40]
A
Maybe the differences then of making these sort of maritime additions or parts of the history that let's say the average Joe that is coming to TAG Heuer knows them for their automotive of heritage, doesn't know about this sort of seafaring heritage that goes on, why don't they look therefore to use this, you know, amped up technology that they seem to be prioritizing, make them more expensive because, you know, they're not using gold plated hour markers and, you know, up the actual quality of it, produce less of them. And maybe would that speak to more of those that were aware of Hoya's history within that maritime world? So they're a bit more exclusive and it feels like this is a more elevated homage to the past. And, you know, they're small little pockets of launches that they do every now and then. Also, let's, you know, accept the fact that they were launching this in 2026. It was three years ago that they referenced that. I keep saying maritime. I've never said maritime so much in my life, but it was three years ago that they reference this. Everything between then has been about F1 pretty much, and, you know, automotive in some capacity. So they don't do it all too often, but maybe three years in watchmaking history is too short. I don't know. But what's the, what's the, what's the shame in letting people know we don't just do cars too? Like, you know, we did have history elsewhere. Maybe the point is that you just think the quality wasn't there.
- [78:12]
B
It's not shame. It's just about concise storytelling and trying to cut through the noise of the industry, which is massive. And fighting against other brands in their field of expertise seems okay. Maybe it's brave, maybe it's laudable that they want to, like, show, oh, we can do this as well. But it's like, can you do it as well as the people that you're fighting against in that price point now? Because I do think that they do what they do on the track probably better than anybody in that price point.
- [78:37]
A
100%. Yeah.
- [78:38]
B
You know, they wipe the floor with Omega's Speedmaster, which has to like, cling to the moon because nobody associates that with actual racing on the track, which is what it was designed for. So, you know, I think they've won the battle. And I think that there's a tendency in watchmaking and this is very difficult for people coming in to run a brand to really, you know, reconcile, to always think that there is another audience out there for you that you haven't yet managed to tap into. Yeah, but I think that the whole point of branding is that you can't be all things to all people. You should define your story succinctly and everything should look land within that. Now. It doesn't have to be comfortably within it. It can push at the edges of the pool, as it were. Try and find out your potential, but stay in your lane. Again, another wow, I'm really cranking out these automotive ponds.
- [79:25]
A
What about this launch though, makes you feel like they're trying to cross pollinate all of their, you know, client avenues. This does not speak to me in my eyes of someone who just picked up a solar graph last year for like 1.8 or whatever it is. And then I don't think that they're going to see this and be like, fuck yeah. Like that's my next watch at tag. Like, I don't think they're trying to streamline it by any means. I think it's, you know, it's, it's probably the blessing and the curse of TAG Heuer. They have such a big portfolio, price wise and storytelling wise.
- [80:04]
B
But that is what I'm saying, right, that they're not streamlining that they've brought this model out because they think that this might appeal to a different audience. Perhaps they're trying to tap into someone else. And I'm saying I'm not sure that's the best use of your resource sources or the definition of your brand. Like, I agree with you. 100, 100. Like if you're on the F1, if you're on the solar graph pathway, then you might buy a Carrera next or something along those lines.
- [80:26]
A
But this, this watch now makes me want to go and look into like Abercrombie and Fitch Hoyas, which I will be totally honest, I was not aware of. And I know that's probably a well known thing about Hoya, but I've kind of now like want to go and explore that and see what kind of collaboration was happening there in the past that I wasn't aware of. So no, I'm not buying the watch, but I'm somehow investing more of my time into the brand. I don't know, at the end of the day, sales are sales, aren't they? They want to sell this watch. They don't care that I've gone onto Google and learned about Abercrombie and Fitch ex heuer.
- [81:02]
B
Like, it's certainly not a negative consequence that that would be your primary course of action having seen this watch. Of course not. Because you're falling further into the Heuer universe and it could very well lay the foundations for a future pur. Because you became inspired by the history that you learned. So it's not a negative thing. But you're absolutely right. At the end of the day, sales are what matters and Will they sell a few more of these pieces than they would have done if they hadn't released it? Of course, they can't fail to. Some people are going to look at that colorway and say, that's the most beautiful watch I've ever seen in my life. And they're totally entitled to think that, to be honest.
- [81:32]
A
Rob, I think with this watch as well, I know it's probably contrary to what I said about maybe Hoya fans seeing a little bit more of Hoya history being reflected in the brand. But I think at the same time, this colorway is very compelling and it is very different to other TAG Heuer models. If you look at an A4 catalog in front of you right now, and for some people it would be enough just on the color of the dial. And that is not, not in criticism by any means. I'm like, no, it would be enough.
- [81:59]
B
Yeah, I could really see that. And you know, again, I haven't seen this in person. Okay. So I'm totally open to the possibility that when I do, I'll be amazed at how those elements, elements that jar with me initially interact with natural light. There are some angles of this watch on display on. I've got one here in front of me on Oracle Time, for example. It's the headline image, I think, or it's the first like landscape image of this piece. And it's an angle where you can really see the arena bowl of the dial. And on this one, those gold plated indexes look blasted and inserted rather than polished. They look much more elegant and much more subtle and much more toned down. And if that's what it looks like in real life, maybe I change my opinion. My initial feeling when I saw it was doesn't feel like TAG to me. Cool colorway, but like maybe I'd get that from a Marlow and not from a TAG Heuer. You know, it's just where do I go for what is always the question comparison. Is it a bad watch? No. Is it? Of course it's not. Do I think that Tag Heuer should have released this? Maybe not. I'm open to being proven wrong.
- [83:07]
A
Maybe it was just not the right time of the year as well. I don't know. I can't remember exactly when they bought out the Skipper. I know it was. I think it definitely was before Watches and Wonders. So maybe it was probably LVMH Watch Week as well that they launched it. That really had noise, I felt when that came out. But I don't know. I'm intrigued to know other people's opinion on this one and I'm not by any means like a die hard fan of this watch, but you know the other Carrera models that they've bought out of increasing the size, this was my favorite out of their launches. So we should probably wrap up with. To me, what is, I think one of my favourites from LVMH watch week. Again, it's a brand that I think are, excuse my French, I just think they're fucking killing it. And I think that's because they have a, an incredible team working at Fabrique du Temps, but also because they have people like Alexia and Evelyn Genta that are able to give invaluable education and insight into center true Gerald Genta design. So that is obviously the new Gerald Genta watches which is the Geneva time only models. So there's two of them obviously. Last year we saw the Geneva minute repeater which interestingly was a Fabric du Temps movement. But now we are seeing the use of a modified Zenith relief Zenith Elite movement. It was going to be so well, Zenith Elite movement. Thanks. It's not the first time we've seen a modification of this movement as well. They did it with the awesome. But the idea I believe with these two watches which come in, I'm going to say the English version of maroon and graphite I think is a bit more daily wear. And I think when we think about Gerald Genta's designs and I don't mean Gerald Genta working for, you know, IWC.
- [85:01]
B
Patek Universal Geneve Pate Patek Order My Patreon.
- [85:05]
A
Yeah, I was about to say AP as well. Omega speaking on Gerald Genta, the brand, I think we look at a lot of his models and they are very eccentric and I don't know that people would necessarily always view them as daily watches. I'm looking and also thinking as well of like a lot of the perpetual calendars that he bought out and like the sort of shape of those cases, I think here we're seeing a real emphasis on it being daily wear. Also from the fact that you know, you now have a Zenith Elite movement in it which is obviously gonna bring the price down and make it a kind of more inverted commas, cost effective daily watch. You know, we've got a brass, a grained brass dial on the two of them. What I really like that I'm fascinated by which was the first thing I thought when I zoomed into the watch watches was the stamping of the logo on the grained brass and the kind of texture that the type gets to it where, you know, they've obviously gone through insane quality control, but it somehow shifted the lettering ever so slightly in a way that I've got a little reference to pull up for you, Rob, in a way that you sort of saw Genta when it was stamped onto the lapis of Moonphase, particularly in a model from 1990, the 2132.4. 2132.4. You can kind of see that same effect of where when they've stamped the Gerald Genta name onto a material that's quite difficult to work with. So again, in this modern context, grained brass, there's something quite beautiful about the imperfection of it. I want to say I have some.
- [86:46]
B
Questions and comments about this. Firstly. Right, talk to me. Is this not just pad printed, this word mark, is it.
- [86:57]
A
I don't know.
- [86:58]
B
To me it looks like it's pad printed onto a roughened surface. I'm not sure I would really.
- [87:02]
A
So you've just let me wax lyrical about all of this.
- [87:05]
B
Well, I want to see where you were going. I was just curious, like, because I wouldn't even call the dial grained. I would say it's granulated, it's stamped with a pattern, I believe that's supposed to echo something more like peening or some kind of tremblage. Because a grain, I would say, is like a line, a continuous line in one direction, be it circular, horizontal, vertical, diagonal, whatever. To me, this looks like a textured dial that's probably been hydraulically stamped and then galvanically coated to apply the brown or the gray fume. But I don't know, I've not had them in hand. I'm just looking at images, I'm trying to zoom in, trying to figure out what's going on. What I can do, say, is that I think that they are extremely handsome daily watches that rose gold. The shade of rose gold. Is there a reference to what. What N of rose gold? It is.
- [87:53]
A
Let me see if I can find.
- [87:55]
B
It's odd. It's not 2 or 5, I don't think. Okay, here we are. It's 4. So it's 4N, which is an unusual shade to choose. It's jumped at me because it reminded me of the honey gold from Langate and Sonne a bit, especially against that Brown Odysseus 1. Well, any of the honey gold models. Yeah, I love them all. I think it's the most beautiful material ever. And this is about as close as I've seen to it.
- [88:21]
A
It's very slender.
- [88:22]
B
Yeah, it's really slender. And that Zenith calibre, the Elite, although I hate the winding action on the Elites because it sounds like you've dropped some sand into the movement and there's barely any purchase on the teeth. They are solid movements, they do work pretty well and they're easy enough to service. But here's the thing then, the price tag is gobsmacking for what we're looking at. I mean yes, I know they're precious metal cases, but they're not massive lumps of metal. They are 38 millimeters across, 8.15 millimeters thick in either rose 4N or white gold with a pad printed stamped dial as far as I can see it, with I guess applied indexes and a pad printed minute track. It is 25,000 thousand francs for even.
- [89:06]
A
Compare that to like all the other Gerald Gentas that they bought out. I mean how much would the Zenith Elite movement cost in a Zenith?
- [89:14]
B
Probably about seven or eight.
- [89:15]
A
Okay, that's quite a jump, isn't it?
- [89:17]
B
It is a jump but you do make a good point. I mean the cost of like gold, any gold, is stratospheric at the minute. So maybe that is even enough to accommodate for the difference.
- [89:26]
A
Maybe it's the dial then. I don't know. I mean how much is the awesome? Because the awesome. I'm looking at this now because that, that's the same Zenith Elite I keep saying Elif Zenith Elite movement in the Orsan. So I'm gonna just investigate that.
- [89:43]
B
I would wonder what our audience thinks of the completely blank case back. That would be interesting to know on a watch like this.
- [89:50]
A
So for the Orsan, which this is the black onyx one they bought out bearing in mind you obviously have all of those of beads on the case and the faceting on the crystal as well, that's 29.
- [90:08]
B
Now that's a bargain in comparison that's a 4k difference. So look, it must be the material and the name.
- [90:16]
A
It must be working in tandem.
- [90:17]
B
Right? So I mean gold is preposterously expensive right now and it's I would guess. Well actually I'm pretty sure that it's more of the multiple of seven steel than the steel watches are to this. But still this is a 25k2 hander.
- [90:37]
A
Yeah, it's not cheap. I mean according to Hidinki, the minute repeater which was obviously the in house movement was 320,000. So I suppose by Genta standards, Gerald Genta standards, yeah, it is a more Affordable offering for a time only.
- [90:56]
B
One watch, I mean that's undeniable.
- [90:58]
A
I don't believe that's a 4k difference between this and the awesome. Because you're getting like this. That. I don't know, that confuses me.
- [91:06]
B
Yeah, the awsan. I, I expected it to be twice that price, to be honest, given where these pieces have landed. Because I thought, oh, there's some, there's some artisanal craft in there. It's, it's something a bit different that's certainly not as off the shelf. I mean nothing about this Genta is off the shelf. But there's nothing complicated about the construction of the, this case. Not in the least. Nothing complicated about the construction of the dial. Everything looks absolutely peerlessly finished. We'll give them that. And I, I do mean everything. Like the, the graining on the case, band in the middle is gorgeous. Crown's really nicely done. All the indexes look great. The hands have got beautiful smooth ambrosia edges. Just gorgeous. But for goodness sake, 25k. Look, look at the case back. I mean there's anything Zenith Elite, which, okay, it's made by Zenith, but through that case back with that rotor, looks a bit like a solita not blowing my socks off. You know what I'd buy for 25k from this rash of releases over the LVMH watch week? If I had it to burn, I'd get one.
- [92:02]
A
Buy chalk icers. You buy a limited supply of chalk.
- [92:06]
B
I'd buy a shit ton of duck ashes in a downtown beach with Mrs. And have a lovely paddle and dawshund would duh.
- [92:13]
A
Rob, we must find out more about the D dial.
- [92:17]
B
All right, well, we'll have to do some journalism. We'll have to go and approach Genta and find out what the process was for it. Now what I would buy would be one of the standard hublot unicos. You've given me a list of watches that you love and here's one that I adore just to mention it because I really love what they've done with the dial, how they've moved away from like the carbon fiber dials that I used to hate, but referenced it with this very, very stark deep checkboard pattern that just looks cool as hell. And it's very, very 2005 to 2015 kind of Hublot and I love it. It's a bit gross and it's a bit in your face and it's a bit footballer, but it's cool and it's better than the carbon. But it gives the same vibe. It's like. It's like a descendant of it. Did you see that yourself? Did you see that sort of reference? Or do you see it as something else entirely?
- [93:06]
A
I mean, that's all supposedly taking the best of the original Big Bang and modernizing it, isn't it? I appreciate it. I mean, my dad loves a Hublo Big Bang. He doesn't own one, but that's his kind of jam. And maybe I feel a bit sentimental about Big Bang because of that. I mean, like, I'm more excited about other things, I think, again, but, you know, them putting the Unico movement in it, the level of finishing, I think, think is a lot different, a lot better on these ones. I agree with what you mean. There's something quite, like, gauche about it in the way that it is.
- [93:47]
B
It's a perfect way to describe it.
- [93:49]
A
But, yeah, it's like it should be.
- [93:50]
B
Hublot's like.
- [93:51]
A
But that's not a criticism. I love. I love, you know, my style is very gauche at times. And I love things that are kind of like statement for statement sake. And I think it goes back to that point, point of hublot's meaning of disruption compared to the industry's understanding of hublot's view of disruption. I think they're kind of two different things. I appreciate it, but no, I wouldn't wear it. It's just the Big Bang is way too big for me. I love big watches, but no, not for me. But I appreciate them kind of doubling down on their watchmaking footprint a little bit more. Do you know what I love, and I'm gonna sound like a basic for saying this, I love their mini classic fusions. In the 28 mil that they brought out, like, two years ago. I think they're really cool.
- [94:36]
B
Do they have diamonds on or do they come with diamonds?
- [94:38]
A
There was a mixture. They had some with, some without. But I do think that you just think Hublot's underrated.
- [94:46]
B
Me too. I want a diamond bezel. Big Bang. I honestly do. I would wear that as ridiculous as it would look on me.
- [94:52]
A
Yeah, I just think it's luxury. I think I like Hublot when it's just like, amped up to. To the nth degree. And maybe these new big bangs are a bit too standard, like, standardized for me. And I appreciate that they're taking the codes of the first models as literal as possible. But I just want it to be like, oh, you know, as you say, throw a load of like, who blows color at it? Who blows diamonds? All of that, like, just go a bit nuts.
- [95:21]
B
This iteration of the Big Bang for me only hit home so hard because it reminds me of the early phase of Big Bang. And the Big Bang was the first watch I fell in love with after I started my apprenticeship. It wasn't the watch that made me do an apprenticeship, that was a Lange and Zhner, but the Big Bang I discovered when I was at the Bench. And I loved it so much, I bought a fake one off Alibaba. A white strapped rose gold case. Fake Big Bang.
- [95:48]
A
I think so many people did that with hublot in the beginning. Like, so everybody that I know, like, bought fake hublot. Also, shout out to the hublot service watch.
- [95:57]
B
Oh, yeah, I used to have one. Me and David, we sold them. Yeah, we, we bought them and then we had them for a few months and we're like, yeah, okay, this is fun. But yes, off. Like, I want the real thing. I want. I. I need to have a Big Bang in my life at some point. Like, there are very few watches that I really desire. Desire anymore. But the Big Bang and the ploprof still remain.
- [96:18]
A
After all these years, I'd get a. A sapphire by a Big Bang.
- [96:22]
B
Yeah, man. Today I was looking at pre.
- [96:25]
A
You know, when they did that collection.
- [96:26]
B
Clear one. Yeah.
- [96:27]
A
You know when they did that collection last year where they had like five, and I was like, me, I would absolutely love this collection. And you bought it in like the box set or something insane. And they had like a neon green sapphire. And I'm like, I would, I would, I. I'm not one for double wristing personally, but I would double wrist price the shit out of that collection.
- [96:50]
B
You might need both wrists for one, to be honest. They're not shrunking violets, that's for sure. But no, they're incredible. And they make a statement like few others, but, you know, they do hold their value relatively well. And by that I mean, actually they probably come down by about 40%, but they're still in the 30s and 40s of thousands, you know. And when I looked today, I found a clear sapphire case, one with a rainbow diamond bezel. And it was at 30, 37, 000 US, which I thought, actually that's pretty reasonable for what that is, considering the retail, I think was probably around twice that. And every so often I consider selling everything I own and just buying one.
- [97:27]
A
I tell you what, Rob, I'm an absolute stickler for a watch that people hate or a brand that people hate. Like, I would, I love to wear something that People actively have very strong opinions on in terms of whether they like it or not. And Hublot is that so. If I can have my arms decorated in, like, a litany of big bangs and classic fusions, not so much. The spirit of Big Bang doesn't speak to me as much. That one. I'd be happy. I'd be happy.
- [97:59]
B
Okay, let's work on it then. It's just if you'd like to send us some money, you know where we're going.
- [98:05]
A
Imagine if Mar. They don't know where we live. Imagine if Marmite and Hublot did a car lab.
- [98:13]
B
Strangely, I could kind of imagine it looking pretty cool with the Marmite colors. Like, you have a green case with the red logo and yellow strap, maybe. Yeah, it would be awful, but we'd both probably fall in love with it, so we would. On that note, we should probably wrap up. Considering we overran our target time by 48 minutes, which makes this, I think, the longest episode ever. We probably will have to edit some things out for legal reasons. LOL. Thanks for listening along to 2026's First Scrub episodes.
- [98:50]
A
Long may they continue.
- [98:52]
B
If you'd like us to make some scrub T shirts, you know, we can have Scrob embroidered on the breast. Let us know because we'll consider anything.
- [99:00]
A
It's so fine without one. Thank you.
- [99:02]
B
Yeah, they're not for us. They're for our devoted followers.
- [99:06]
A
Yeah, thanks for listening to me. My less humble ramblings this week. Hoping to be back in your ears again soon.
- [99:16]
B
Gross. Didn't need to be said. But thanks anyway for your input. We will be back soon. Don't worry. And yeah, I can't believe you just said that.
- [99:26]
A
What? No, like, in people's ears. They're listening to the podcast. What's wrong with that?
- [99:31]
B
There's something like, you know, it's like.
- [99:32]
A
No, it's you and your childish brain. That is not. Not me.
- [99:35]
B
I can't stop thinking about Max and Paddy.
- [99:37]
A
You know, lost reference on me. Sorry.
- [99:41]
B
Coming in your ears, you know, like, that's.
- [99:43]
A
Yeah, don't. No, we made it to 1. 1 hour 49. No, keep this in. We've made it to 1 hour 49. We've had a really nice time, and you've had to ruin it now by twisting my very normal sentiment into a crude joke. What do you have to say for yourself? Play the outro now.
- [100:03]
B
Thank you for listening to this bumper episode of the Real Time show. Scrub will be back soon. And also you can enjoy the dulcet tones of scalon coming in your ears. In the near future, we'll be back with more top quality watch content and interviews with the industry's finest.
- [100:21]
A
Top quality? I'm not sure.
- [100:25]
B
We'll be back with some more absolute filth and interviews with the watch industry's first finest. Until then, stay safe and keep on ticking. Oh, God. That's going to take some editing.