Sexy Boi Guillaume Laidet Talks SpaceOne, Nivada Grenchen, Vulcain, and Current Affairs

Summary

Podcast Summary: The Real Time Show – "Sexy Boi Guillaume Laidet Talks SpaceOne, Nevada Grenchen, Vulcain, and Current Affairs"

Release Date: April 4, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Guillaume Laidet

---

Introduction

In this vibrant episode of The Real Time Show, hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph engage in an in-depth conversation with Guillaume Laidet, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. Guillaume brings insights from his work with esteemed brands such as SpaceOne, Nevada Grenchen, and Vulcain, while also delving into current industry challenges like international tariffs. The discussion offers a blend of technical innovation, market strategies, and personal anecdotes, making it a must-listen for watch enthusiasts and industry insiders alike.

---

SpaceOne: Innovation and Design

Guillaume Laidet opens the discussion by highlighting the successful launch of SpaceOne's latest collection, the Chrono Skin Diver. He emphasizes the brand's commitment to producing unique timepieces that combine futuristic design with proprietary complications.

• Notable Quote:
  "We are providing something that almost no one else is – a beautiful concept watch with futuristic design, but also with our own complication." (01:26)

Guillaume discusses the Jumping Hour and Tellurium complications, both developed in-house by Theo Fret. These features set SpaceOne apart in the competitive watch market, offering functionalities that are both innovative and aesthetically pleasing.

• Quote:
  "Our own Jumping hour made by Theo Fret. Our own Tellurium that is also made by Theo." (01:26)

Rob Nudds expresses his admiration for the Tellurium complication, praising its value and quality.

• Quote:
  "The Tellurium comes out and I think it is the best value complicated watch in the industry, bar none." (03:02)

New Releases and Design Philosophy

The conversation shifts to the design aspects of SpaceOne's new releases. Guillaume elaborates on the ergonomic and aesthetic enhancements made by designer Olivier, who contributed to both the Tellurium and the latest World Timer model.

• Quote:
  "The case was reimagined by Olivier, the designer who made the case for the Tellurium." (02:50)

Rob is particularly impressed by the World Timer's functionality, which features local time displays and a multi-city dial, enhancing its practicality for global users.

• Quote:
  "It's a beautiful shape. Extremely ergonomic. Wears on the wrist wonderfully. It's very light as well." (05:14)

---

Nevada Grenchen: Heritage and Expansion

Transitioning to Nevada Grenchen, Guillaume provides an overview of the brand's resurgence and market strategy. Laidet emphasizes the brand's historical legacy dating back to 1926, which lends credibility and appeal to modern consumers.

• Quote:
  "This brand was created in 1926. So there is some good legitimacy. There is a crazy back catalog." (07:32)

He shares impressive sales figures, noting that Nevada Grenchen sold 12,000 watches last year with over 80 points of sale worldwide. The brand's strategy includes expanding product sizes to cater to a broader audience, including introducing larger models and a new ladies' collection.

• Quote:
  "We sold like 12,000 watches last year. We have now like more than 80 points of sale worldwide." (07:32)

Guillaume also highlights the brand's responsiveness to customer feedback, leading to the development of larger watch sizes and specialized collections aimed at different demographics.

• Quote:
  "This is a really ladies' collection. It's not just a smaller size of one of our main collections with diamonds or mother of pearl. It's a really ladies' collection." (10:56)

Vulcain: Traditional Appeal Meets Modern Strategy

Vulcain, another key brand under Guillaume's oversight, is discussed as a traditional yet evolving player in the watch industry. The emphasis is on maintaining the brand's heritage while adapting to contemporary market demands.

• Quote:
  "Volcain is more of a retail brand. We are doing not 80% but a majority of sales on the retail side because it's a more traditional brand." (14:58)

Vulcain's strategy includes strengthening its presence in major markets like Italy, Switzerland, and the US, as well as enhancing online sales channels.

Navigating Current Affairs: US Tariffs and Market Impact

A significant portion of the episode addresses the impact of newly announced US tariffs on the watch industry. Guillaume shares insights into how these tariffs, intensifying up to 31% for Switzerland, pose challenges for exporting brands.

• Quote:
  "The tariff from Trump... it's going to be a big change for the industry." (17:09)

Rob Nudds and Guillaume discuss potential strategies to mitigate these tariffs, such as assembling watches in the US or adjusting pricing structures. They debate the feasibility of absorbing the tariffs versus passing costs onto consumers, especially for small to mid-sized brands.

• Quote:
  "Maybe assemble in the U.S. in some way. We have with Mohise a possibility to do that." (19:02)

Guillaume reflects on the historical precedents of Swiss brands assembling in the Virgin Islands to avoid tariffs, suggesting that similar strategies might be necessary.

• Quote:
  "Back in the days a lot of Swiss watches were assembled in the Virgin Islands." (19:26)

The conversation acknowledges the precarious balance brands must maintain between pricing, quality, and accessibility in the face of economic pressures.

The Future of Independent Watchmaking

Concluding the episode, Rob Nudds and Guillaume Laidet exchange views on the evolving landscape of watchmaking. They highlight the resilience of independent brands and the potential for innovation to drive the industry forward, even amidst economic uncertainties.

• Quote:
  "This could kill them. Yeah. Be very bad for us. Maybe we'll slow a bit. But you know, I was yesterday I was dining with Etienne from Baltic... very concerned." (21:19)

Rob optimistically notes that the challenges posed by tariffs might create opportunities for smaller, innovative brands to gain market traction by offering value without the inflated prices of larger competitors.

• Quote:
  "When you've got that kind of perceived value product, then maybe this is a moment where the big brands finally get the rug pulled from under their feet." (23:08)

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with Rob expressing his appreciation for Guillaume's contributions to the industry and the insightful discussion on navigating current challenges. He emphasizes the importance of staying informed and adaptable in a rapidly changing market.

• Quote:
  "Guillon, thank you for what you're doing for the industry. We appreciate all the hard work and all the effort." (24:09)

---

Key Takeaways

• Innovation in Watchmaking: SpaceOne's unique complications and futuristic designs set new standards in accessible luxury.

• Heritage and Modernity: Nevada Grenchen leverages its rich history to expand globally, catering to diverse customer needs with new collections.

• Market Challenges: US tariffs present significant hurdles, prompting brands to explore strategic adjustments to maintain market presence.

• Independent Resilience: Small and mid-sized brands like SpaceOne and Nevada Grenchen demonstrate the ability to thrive through innovation and strategic agility.

---

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

1. Guillaume Laidet on SpaceOne's Unique Offerings:

   "We are providing something that almost no one else is – a beautiful concept watch with futuristic design, but also with our own complication." (01:26)

2. Rob Nudds Praising the Tellurium:

   "The Tellurium comes out and I think it is the best value complicated watch in the industry, bar none." (03:02)

3. Guillaume on Nevada Grenchen's Legacy:

   "This brand was created in 1926. So there is some good legitimacy. There is a crazy back catalog." (07:32)

4. Guillaume on Vulcain's Retail Strategy:

   "Volcain is more of a retail brand. We are doing not 80% but a majority of sales on the retail side because it's a more traditional brand." (14:58)

5. Discussion on US Tariffs Impact:

   "The tariff from Trump... it's going to be a big change for the industry." (17:09)

6. Guillaume on Potential Solutions:

   "Maybe assemble in the U.S. in some way. We have with Mohise a possibility to do that." (19:02)

7. Rob on the Future Amid Tariffs:

   "When you've got that kind of perceived value product, then maybe this is a moment where the big brands finally get the rug pulled from under their feet." (23:08)

---

Final Thoughts

This episode of The Real Time Show offers a comprehensive look into the dynamic world of watchmaking through the lens of Guillaume Laidet. From groundbreaking watch designs to navigating international trade challenges, listeners gain valuable insights into both the creative and business aspects of the industry. Whether you're a seasoned collector or new to the watch scene, this discussion provides a nuanced understanding of the factors shaping the future of timepieces.

Transcript

[Guillaume]

As a very small dick.

[Rob Nudds]

Oh, damn it. I actually already pressed record by that point.

[Guillaume]

So that's Tenu and Tenu and tenure.

[Rob Nudds]

Well, when has Binnen gone? I'm afraid. Hi and hello watch fans and welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds. I am joined today by Guillaume from. Well, where are you from? Nevada Grench in Space one and Volcano and Volcan.

[Guillaume]

Exactly.

[Rob Nudds]

I love Volcan. You know, I don't get enough pop. Sorry, it doesn't get enough pop.

[Guillaume]

Exactly. Yeah, we have to make more pop on Vuhyn because we're doing some cool stuff. We just released a Chrono Skin Diver which is the new collection and we had a lot of interest on Instagram and from all the blogs already, but it's coming in sale in a few weeks. So go check this out.

[Rob Nudds]

I definitely will go check it out. And if anyone else is here at the Villa Sarasan at the time to watch this event and wants to go and see it, then please do get. Where are you? First floor, Second floor?

[Guillaume]

We are in the annex.

[Rob Nudds]

In the annex around the corner.

[Guillaume]

Yeah, exactly. We have been finished, so we are a bit far. We have a.

[Rob Nudds]

Probably the safest place for you. You are a bit of a fire starter, shall we say. In fact, you are. Firestarters may be a good way to describe you in the industry. You certainly created a firestorm of interest around the brands that you have been overseeing in the last few years. I guess most notably people will know you from Nevada Grenchen because it's maybe the biggest story of the last five. Five or so years. But recently Space one. Yeah, I mean, come on, talk to me.

[Guillaume]

Yes. This one has been a crazy start. At first it was like just a side project, but we made like 3 million euro turnover in one year. And 1500 watches produced something like this. And now we. I think we found a great audience because we are providing something that almost no one else is is providing. Is beautiful concept watch with futuristic design, but also with our own complication. So our own Jumping hour made by Theo Fret. Our own Tellurium that is also made by Theo and we will release in the coming months. That's what I'm wearing right now, a world Timer. That's pretty cool. And well, where you have local time on the bottom.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay, I'm making good.

[Guillaume]

And then you have like the. The multi city dial on the. On the left.

[Rob Nudds]

Holy smokes.

[Guillaume]

Yeah. And what is crazy is that we have almost the same size as the, the jumping. So it's, it's back on the jumping a bit, shake kind of shape. But reimagined by Olivier, the designer who made the case for the, for the tellurium. And then the. Has developed full in house world timer complication to add over the top.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay, so I have to talk about this watch because I've not bought a space one yet. Yeah, I have to admit.

[Guillaume]

You have to.

[Rob Nudds]

I really must. Yeah. I can't really think.

[Guillaume]

Yep, it's too much. Too much sun.

[Rob Nudds]

Oh, yeah, of course. We're in a glass igloo. The sun has risen over us. It's blazing, blinding. And yeah, we need to wear caps because our heads are on fire. I haven't bought one yet, but I have the intention of buying one. I think when the first model came out, I loved the shape, I loved the wearability, I love the complication. I just thought the best one was the carbon one. And then I was too late. I didn't get there fast enough. It sold out in a heartbeat. So I thought, I'll wait and see what comes next. And the tellurium comes out and I think it is the best value complicated watch in the industry, bar none. I was amazed, I must admit. No disrespect to Otsuka Low Tech, because I love what they do aesthetically. I think it's brilliant and it's very creative mechanically. But I was amazed you didn't win the gphg. Yeah, absolutely amazing. Yeah, I can know. I can imagine. Thank you for the honesty as well. Because to be quite frank, the Otsuka Low Tech is a brilliant, under the radar collector's piece. It's a real, like, watch nerds piece. But the space one doesn't just bring a new creative display, it brings this, the space one, Tellurium, it brings this case, it brings this complication, this something you cannot get at that price point, something we didn't think was really possible, to be produced at that price point with that quality as well. Now, if this was thrown together, if this was some cheap muck and it just, like looked good, then fine, forget about it. But this is an incredibly quality product. When you get it in your hands and you see the quality of the machining, the finishing, the comfort of it on the wrist, it blows your mind. You'll actually have to ask twice because it isn't that. Well, it's nearly €3,000. It's about €3,000. It's not that. That's not a lot of money for a lot of people. That is a huge Amount of money, more than they maybe would ever be able to spend on a watch. For many watch collectors, though, that's the drop in the ocean. And it doesn't make you question, like, oh, what's going on? It makes you question what's going on with all the other brands. Like, why is it like 10k to buy a Rolex to start with these days? It's a joke when you can get this kind of creativity on your wrist. But this model, this model, like you say it brings back a similar case. Shape of the first. It looks like a spaceship. It even has, like, you know, what would you call these? Like rocket boosters on the back.

[Guillaume]

Yes. Kind of. Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

It's incredible. And you've got the crown on the sides. It is unlike almost.

[Guillaume]

You can set everything only with the crown, like the Tellurium. So, in fact, we plugged the complication to the date just same as we did with the Tellurium. And then we had our own magic.

[Rob Nudds]

This is absolutely stunning. It's a beautiful shape. Extremely ergonomic. Wears on the. Wears on the wrist. Wonderfully. It's very light as well.

[Guillaume]

It's titanium. Oh, wow.

[Rob Nudds]

And it's blued.

[Guillaume]

So this one is blue. You have the black and you have the titan color.

[Rob Nudds]

And do you know exactly or roughly what the retail price is going to be on this one?

[Guillaume]

What do you think?

[Rob Nudds]

Well, because you've. You've kind of spoiled us so far with what you've brought out, I'm tempted to guess that it's going to be low. I think it has to be. I feel like it has to be more than the tellurium. So I'm going to go 3, 8.

[Guillaume]

No, 2, 7, 2, 700. You have to buy it now.

[Rob Nudds]

Oh, my word. Normally, I. Normally I edit out pauses in podcasts, but that one is staying this. My jaw just. It dropped open, right. I'm like. I'm stunned. This is the most. Yeah. This is a stupid thing to say. Okay. Like, I've said it a couple of times to Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan about their watches. Every time they release a new one, I go, this is the maturation of the concert. This is the piece we're all waiting for. And they're getting sick of hearing it. Cause they're like, rob, we got more to come. You don't know what's coming yet.

[Guillaume]

Exactly.

[Rob Nudds]

Exciting. This to me, I just think. I love the Tellurium. I think it's superb. I get why people wouldn't buy it, because it might be a bit Too out there. It might be a bit too avant garde. Especially if it was your only watch. It's not an only watch really. It's a special piece. This thing. This could be an only watch. It could be a one watch collection. Congratulations. Thank you. The industry. That's incredible piece.

[Guillaume]

Let's go on.

[Rob Nudds]

Let's. Let's talk about Nevada Grenchen.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

So what's going on with this now? You are cranking out releases, like really, really desirable releases on the regular. So what's happening?

[Guillaume]

Yeah, but we try to, to always be on the, on the news and to have something to. To please our creditors. And our fan base is growing. I think we sold like 12,000 watches last year.

[Rob Nudds]

12,000 watches?

[Guillaume]

Yeah. We have now like more than 80 point of sales worldwide.

[Rob Nudds]

Incredible.

[Guillaume]

And we are doing more than half of the business now outside the website because at first it was only pre order website. So I started to open one point of sale, two point of sales, a few more to see if the sellout was there, if the product was okay. For also the distribution for the retailers. We go only indirect with the point of sale, like your good friend Elon. And yes, and we see it was a good business. I think we took the place of many brands who increased too much their prices. I mean when you see that you have to pay like €6,000 now for Chrono Carrera Tagaya for example, even more. And we are selling our chrono at between 2000 and 2005 Swiss made. You see there is a disconnection now I think with the value and the PS value. And it's also the case for example even Longines who took the place of Omega Omega who tried to get the price of Rolex. So they gave us a place I think. And that's also what the retailers are starting to see. We are starting to see that a lot of customers want micro brand even if we are not. We of course a microbound with Nevada. But we are more brand now I think because also the quantities and also with the history and the legacy of the brand. This has been created in 1926. So there is some good legitimacy. There is a crazy back catalog. So every day I discover new pieces from the past. That's quite crazy. Crazy. And yes, I think we took the place of some brands who raised to measure prices, who maybe sit or sleep in their corner and that's good for us. So I mean why not? And that's the way we are going with Nevada. I think we also have listened some customers wanted a bit Bigger size. Because me, I'm a watch nerd watch. Vintage nerds. So I wanted always to have the same size as the vintage one. And this year we are coming with a 41 millimeter version of the F77, a 41 version millimeter of the Chronomaster and 42 millimeter of the Death Master. So like this, we can also please the guys who said, wow, you're doing only ladies watches? And I always said, ah, fuck off. I mean, but why. But yes, sometimes I go, I do a lot of watch fairs, I do a lot of events. And, and yes, some guys that just have wrists that are too big to, to wear small watches like us. So, and, and they were frustrated that because they love the design, they love the price point, but they said, no, it's on me. It doesn't work. So after five years already, so I've listened a lot. And, and, and we are going to launch that in September. So we introduced them to the retailers since the beginning of the week and we had some, some very good reaction. We'll also launch a new ladies collection.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay.

[Guillaume]

Based on the, on the color armor collection, which was a crazy ladies collection from Nevada where you can play with different bezels and, and straps. Very tiny watch that will come also in September. That is not just a smaller size of one of our main collection with diamond, I mean, or mother of pearl. It's a really ladies collection. I show it to some retailers this morning, ladies and they were crazy about it. So there's some good reaction. So no, it's. Lot of things are coming for Nevada also. And yes, you have to follow the track.

[Rob Nudds]

So I mean, in this industry, ironic is timing is everything. When you launch a brand, its success or failure is sometimes entirely predicated on the market climate, as it were. Now, what year was it that you brought Nevada back to life?

[Guillaume]

It was just the beginning of COVID Right.

[Rob Nudds]

So perfect timing.

[Guillaume]

It was perfect timing.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah. So many people are so envious of brands that were able to, you know, get their foot in the door.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

Be established, people were keen to buy. People were, you know, they had more disposable income than they probably ever did before in their lives. And, and these watches were extremely accessible. They allowed people to scratch the itch, give them something to look forward to in some dark times for many people. But by the time we came out of COVID you'd grown to such an extent. Look, I never liked the term microbrand to describe a brand that certainly has the heritage in Nevada and is, is not emulating any anybody else, you are mining your own heritage, of course. But for me you're a small independent and.

[Guillaume]

Yeah, exactly. Very nice.

[Rob Nudds]

Very quickly became that for me Space one was never a micro brand. It just never fit in that mold. For me some people think that oh, if you're small, if you have a low volume or if you knew then that makes you a micro brand. I don't believe that's the case. Nobody ever called Czech a micro brand when it came back because of the price point. And I don't think price point has a huge amount to do with micro other than the fact that micros themselves rarely go above the 1 2,000 Euro bracket because they don't do anything that requires them to. When you're doing stuff like you're doing, when you're actually like bringing design and quality manufacturing Swiss made pieces to the market and you're doing it off your own back. For me that, that status as a small independent is something that we should always be respectful of and not denigrate a brand that's new as a micro because you actually offering something to the conversation.

[Guillaume]

Yep.

[Rob Nudds]

What's coming next from Volcan? Another brand with a huge heritage.

[Guillaume]

Yeah. But as I was saying, we have the new Chrono skin diver that's coming. We also have is also inspired by vintage piece I found on I think it not Chrono24 or eBay but. And I bought the piece and I said wow, it's so cool. I started to share it on the Instagram of vain and we had some good reaction and that's how we decided to launch it. We also have a new Grand Prix that came last week. Also very affordable with a small second at 1500 and this piece is crazy cool. And yes. And new stuff also are coming. New Cricket we are working. It's a very long process but on a new version of the Cricket movement because it has not been evolved since a few years now. And we wanted to add some new stuff on this, some new. Maybe a better power reserve, modernize the process and have a better cost of goods on the movement to be able to fit the profitability. Also because the Cricket movement is very costly to make still manufacture in a lodge in our own factory. So this is a big change for Wilkie. But it's coming, it will be released I hope next year.

[Rob Nudds]

You have retailers for Volcano as well.

[Guillaume]

Yeah, for sure. With Elon in Asia. Yeah. Vulcan is more retail brand. We are doing not 80% but a majority of sales on the. On the retail side because it's a more traditional brand. Even if I relaunch the brand online on pre orders. At first that was the concept, but now, yes, it's very strong in Italy, in Switzerland, in the US Also, obviously with the President. Watch the cricket. Yeah. And we're happy. It's doing a good, it's a good comeback. Yeah. As you said, we need to make more communication to make it more pop and it's on the good way, I think.

[Rob Nudds]

So for people that haven't had a chance to try on Nevada, Grenchen or Volcan or Space One, obviously they can come along to any of these major events and you do show it quite a lot of events, don't you put a lot of time and money and effort into that. Yeah. But you have this now global network where, where in the world are you most represented? Are you in the us Are you in.

[Guillaume]

Yeah, majority is us for all the brands that I have. But for many, to be honest, what is quite surprising with or not with, for example, Space1, is that our second biggest market is Singapore.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay.

[Guillaume]

So you can, you can walk on the street in Singapore and see people with spaceflight noise. So that's quite interesting. Third market is Hong Kong for Space One and then Middle east and for Nevada it's US Then Europe. UK is strong. UK is very strong. I think it's the second market on the website.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay.

[Guillaume]

Germany is not that bad. Switzerland or so and France maybe because of me.

[Rob Nudds]

Homegrown hero. Oh, yeah.

[Guillaume]

Yeah. But no, it's. Yeah. And that's what's crazy is that just yesterday we learned about the tariff from Trump.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay, let's talk.

[Guillaume]

And wow. What the fuck. So that's big news. I think I started to talk a bit this morning with some retailers from the, from the U.S. who came to see us. A little one named Watches of his own.

[Rob Nudds]

Oh, yeah.

[Guillaume]

And they were. Wow. And it's a big surprise for everyone. So I think, yes, this, this is going to be a big topic because maybe you were out of time already, but it's going to be. Yeah. A big change for the industry.

[Rob Nudds]

I mean, we're recording this on the 3rd of April, so it's extremely fresh.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

Now we've seen Trump announce tariffs that have quickly been walked back when he got what he wanted immediately.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

I think there was one situation with attempted deportation of people where.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

You know, that was just threatening posturing and what. Yeah, it's possible, I suppose, that these tariffs won't stick.

[Guillaume]

I mean, you never know with him. It's, it's Quite uncertain. So we hope it's maybe just to, to, to make some, some good negotiation and to. But let's see what Europe is going to make an announcement today or tomorrow. I don't know. Yeah. If it's just a play game you have of negotiation or not, but yes, for sure. 31%. Yeah, that's, it's huge.

[Rob Nudds]

So that's 31 out of Switzerland. Right. In 20 for the rest of the EU. Is that the last update or is it.

[Guillaume]

Yeah, from what I've seen, yeah. 20% for Europe, 31% for and more than 50 for. For China. So.

[Rob Nudds]

Wow. Good grief. Yeah. No, and the numbers are changing all the time. I woke up looking through texts and we were discussing it last night and we were up quite late in the pub, you know, so we had like, we, you know, we were getting all the news as it was coming out fresh and some people, they'd obviously gone to bed when they thought it was only going to be 10%. And then I woke up and saw these people discussing this and thinking, oh, this is the worst possible scenario. And I'm like, guys, there's been an update. You know, it seems like it's even worse than we thought it was. Do you have at this point, assuming that those tariffs do stick, any strategies in mind of what you might do as somebody that obviously exports a lot of watches to the U.S. yeah.

[Guillaume]

Maybe assemble in the U.S. in some way. We have with Moishe a possibility to do that if the group I'm working with, because we have a, we have a big office in Phoenix now for different projects and I mean, yeah, if it stay, you know, back in the days a lot of Swiss watches were assembled in the Virgin Island.

[Rob Nudds]

Okay.

[Guillaume]

Because there was some tariffs back in I think the 70s or the 80s, many brands had some workshop there. So it could be a return of this kind of thing because the, the labor in Virgin island is very low for the, for the U.S. and that was enabled to, to, to make the, the market for cheap watches. But let's see. Yeah, I mean at once Omega was assembling the watches in Mexico for Mexico market.

[Rob Nudds]

So who knows, being in that situation where you do have the potential to assemble in America is obviously a pretty unusual and you know, good situation to be in. At least that's an avenue you could explore. I mean a lot of brands who.

[Guillaume]

But I'm saying that. But I mean if I have to do 12,000 watches assembled in the US next week. Yeah, well, I will not have the manpower. The, the watchmakers after you. You have to check if it's not even more expensive to do that than pay the 31% in the end. Far. It's crazy.

[Rob Nudds]

Now, I've been talking to some of the brands I work with this morning about it and, you know, we're sort of moving how can we get around it? And I said, well, you know, for some of them, very small brands that don't yet have an established retailer. Yeah. And we'd been hoping this year to really build up that retail network, especially in the U.S. now, of course, that's really difficult because when you've got to give a full, like even a keystone margin of around 40%.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

And you're adding in these tariffs like someone's got to pay them. The retailers aren't going to want to. The customer is not going to want to shoulder that burden and brands really can't. So, you know, we're saying, okay, well maybe we could do a small price increase and just ditch the idea of retail and just sell direct and kind of absorb it ourselves. Basically see the tariffs as our loss of keystone.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

Because if we pass it on to the customer, then I mean, 31%.

[Guillaume]

Yeah. Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

It's another watch. In many cases.

[Guillaume]

Yes, for sure. But especially for the bronze room, as I was saying earlier, some mini brands increase too much of our prices, so they are not selling out.

[Rob Nudds]

Right.

[Guillaume]

So if, if I take again the example of the car at 6,000. I mean, car now at almost 8,000. Yeah. What the fuck. Yeah. For us on the watch, that's 1000, it's like 1 300. So it's huge percentage. But in, in real value, I mean, it's, I think for a US consumer, it's, it's, it's not that big and it's, it's. Maybe we will take a bit less margin. Yeah. To absorb a bit. It's. On the end of the day. I hope it's not the end of the day. Maybe I'm wrong.

[Rob Nudds]

Well, to be fair, it might actually be a good thing for brands in your price point that also value.

[Guillaume]

The second option, I was thinking is that for the brand who are already out of market, for me it's, it could kill them. Yeah. Be very bad for us. It's. Maybe we'll slow a bit. But you know, I was yesterday I was dining with Etienne from Baltic. Yeah. And we were listening in the same time the, the interview from the, the Trump. And he was also very concerned because he's shipping a lot in the US from France, so. From France it's only 20% more, but yeah, let's see. Suspense.

[Rob Nudds]

It's very significant, isn't it? I mean, it is an inflection point. But I think you hit upon a good point with those brands that have gone a little bit crazy with their price and structures already.

[Guillaume]

Yeah. You know, reversal.

[Rob Nudds]

10,000 Omega, speed master. Creeping up towards that. Yeah, yeah.

[Guillaume]

Could be more than 10,000 for Speed Master.

[Rob Nudds]

And the funny thing is you asked me how much I guessed that new space one was. I said to 3, 8 and you said it's 2007.

[Guillaume]

Yeah.

[Rob Nudds]

So if you add the 30% onto that 2, 7, it doesn't even reach my estimate. So when you've got that kind of perceived value product, then maybe this is a moment. Maybe this is a moment where the big brands finally get the rug pulled from under their feet and the small guys that haven't been screwing over the consumer actually come to the fore even with that 30 or. Yeah, 20% for the rest of you. Okay, well, maybe that's an optimistic note upon which to end this conversation. It's nice that we get into it because it's very current. Of course. I'm going to try and edit this and put this out ASAP so people can hear it because it's really relevant, I think, to what's going on right now. Yeah, we need to get you back on the show. Obviously you've been a guest on the Real Time show in the past, but it's been a long time since we've had a good long hour long sit there together. Guillon, thank you again for your time. Thank you for what you're doing for the industry. We appreciate it. All the hard work and all the effort and also for sitting in direct sunlight and being blinded and fried to a crisp. Appreciate it.

[Guillaume]

Thank you, bro. Thank you very much. It.