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- [00:00]
A
Foreign.
- [00:06]
Watch fans and welcome back to another episode of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nutts. I'm joined as usual, by my faithful co host, the friendly neighborhood jeweler, Alain Ben Joseph, and the head honcho of Alpina, Oliver Van Landshot Hubrecht, once again to talk about a very exciting new release that we have concocted together. Oliver, welcome to the show.
- [00:28]
B
Thank you very much, Rob and Alon, great pleasure to be back on the show for an exciting episode, right?
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A
It is exciting. It's been a long time coming. This project that we're going to be discussing today, amongst other things, has been in the works for a couple of years, really when we first started talking about it, when the Real Time show started to gain a bit more traction. Obviously Alon is very close to Niels, the CEO of Frederic Constant, and through him knows you exceptionally well for many, many years. And now we are all working together on this lovely little thing. Alon, give us your feedback on the relationship with Alpina for you.
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C
Don't tell Nils this, but within the FC group, Alpina is kind of my favorite.
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B
So controversial.
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C
I love fc, you guys know that I had the honor to do two collabs already with Nils for. For fc. Alpena always had a special spot in my heart because they have a long legacy, what a lot of people don't know. And Oliver will maybe school us on this topic, that they were the first cooperative, a union, the Alpina Union. So that is, I think, very important, especially in the Swiss watchmaking industry. The collections are epic and I'm very happy at the helm of Oliver. They're reviving heritage pieces. We've seen a few at Watches and Wonders this year. Watches and Wonders before.
- [01:58]
People know that they have the beautiful dive watches with two crowns, because I'm wearing one, which is a compressor. So this vibe is also part of Alpina's heritage and history. Now, that being said, why was I adamant to work with Alpina? That's why we're here, the three of us. I had to drive both Oliver and Niels crazy to work with us, to convince us. I was actually there when unfortunately their dear friend who passed away recently came up with the designs for a new era for Alpina, which was set with the Alpiner, the current case of the Alpiner, which is very contemporary, even cutting edge. And Niels showed me that prototype when I was visiting their manufacturing plan La Wat in Geneva, I believe three, four years old, that design is today. Now, Oliver, correct me if I'm wrong and correct, yeah.
- [03:04]
A
20, 22.
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C
So, yeah, yeah, three years. So I've seen it before that. And I fell off my chair and I loved what they did. And then they didn't stop at that. They used that as a platform and came out with the diver extreme. And then I said, this is bullseye. And then, Rob, you take it from me, because when you saw that watch, something clicked in your mind and I saw twinkles in your eyes.
- [03:31]
A
Yeah. For me, it was a perfect evolution of the collection. But before we talk about that extensively, let's talk about the history of that collection, because Oliver is in a very special place in the museum, surrounded by Alpina's history and heritage. So, Oliver, why don't you take us right back to the beginning of Alpina so that we have some context for the model that we have created together.
- [03:54]
B
Yeah. Thank you, Rob. Indeed, I'm here in the manufacture experience from Museum of Alpina Watches in Plani Wat in Geneva. Alpina as a brand has a very interesting history. You both spoke about it. Alon mentioned that it's actually born out of the collaboration. So to speak briefly about that, back in 1883, somebody called Gottlieb Hauser brought together actors of the watch industry at the time, so different actors, and brought them together as a group. So you had designers, you had manufacturers, you had even retailers that were in the group at the time. So it's really the first collaboration or collaborative platform in the Swiss watchmaking industry. That's also very interesting with regards to our collaboration today. After that, following the creation of the watchmaking union, the objective when they started creating and producing watches was always the resistance of the watch to build a strong, sturdy watch to resist the harshness given by the Alps. And then later, later in the evolution, they indeed created a diver's watch already under the sea. Strong name back in the 1960s, the SE Strong 10, Alpina 10, which had 10 features in it. It was a super compressor watch, also with an internal revolving bezel. So the diving, the divers features and watches, also part of the. Part of the history. So under these two.
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It'S a good basis for our discussion today. The watchmakers union collaboration and then the divers watch history with the beauty that we're bringing out together.
- [05:47]
A
Yeah, I'm absolutely over the moon to have worked on this project with you because, like Alan, I've always loved Alpina. I always enjoyed writing about Alpina when I was at Fratello, because I always. I loved the fusion of that heritage and that very modern take on what you're able to do with modern manufacturing techniques and the materials and, and decorative techniques that you brought into those watches. But when I saw the new C strung this 39.5 millimeter case, which has a very compact 40.5 lug to lug, which is an incredible wearing experience, to be honest. Very, very stout on the wrist. I really want to get my hands on it because I had this vision of something that could be extremely trts, which we have like a style now it would seem, because this is actually the fourth collab that we've done and there's a consistent thread through all of them. And I don't know what you thought, Oliver, because this is what I'd like to talk to our listeners about is really the process of collaboration because everybody's got different motivations and they have to have their own agendas. Obviously when they're working on a project, it has to satisfy all partners and that can sometimes not actually be possible. You know, we were, we were able to get to that point where we were able to collaborate. I'd like to talk about that process rather than maybe the watch itself because by now people will have seen it. Obviously it's, let's call it a charcoal or very, very, very dark gray degrade dial with this beautiful particulated effect which comes to life in the sun. And then it's got the bright orange seconds hand, which is a bit of a TRTS signature to be fair. This new dial layout, bit more expansive, gets rid of the rehort ring, but it keeps the beautiful ceramic bezel insert which is one of the most like, high quality aspects of this model. And I think in this configuration really sings. But let's talk about that process. So when we first spoke to you about our desire to collaborate, what did you think? Were you keen or were you reticent?
- [07:42]
B
Definitely keen, for sure. I mean, I think right away, and I think that's, that's a super important element. It's obviously we're humans behind it, you know, and we listen to each other and we share and we get excited and we cry and we review. And for, for me, that aspect spoke to me right away. So I think it's about us at the beginning and, and taking. Looking at something that we both, we both have what's unique about both of us and brought it together onto this, to this project. So honestly, it came with excitement and to always put, of course, a new. Take a new approach on design, you know, from this exciting watch that we had launched with the extreme case design. And then after the C Strong. And I think that was really the. You can almost feel it right away, you know, when you get that excitement, that approach. Obviously I had seen what you had done before and I think that both your expertise, you Rob and then Alon brought together and you know, it was at the initiated the very beginning of the Real Time show as well when you started discussing and we've all come a long way since then, so. So it's just excitement, you know.
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A
And then what was your first thought when you did see that design land on your desk? Because I presented a couple of options to you. One was a little more out there maybe than the one we decided to go with. But again, were you. I mean you obviously could see it come to life as a product, but we had to go through a few phases, right, of like, you know, discussing like Lume colors and whatnot. And there was research and development done on your side, you know, at your expense of your time and resources with your team to make sure that you got it just right. Were you convinced that it was going to work when you saw it or did you think, okay, there's potential here, but we need to get it exactly right?
- [09:44]
B
Well, when I saw the initial design I was convinced. But obviously then you always have to look at the brand, look at the DNA, look at certain codes that you want to find back on the design of the watch under the Alpina brand. So what you're. That that's the subtlety of it is that you're looking for something that's very different but you can still recognize to some extent the DNA of the brand. So the base of the design I thought was really, was really looking awesome, I must say. But then going back and forth and trying to magnify it. And I remember you mentioned the Lume as well. We went through different testing of that. What would look best, what was the strongest. We ended up with this polar white which looks amazing. A few adjustments also on how important also the presence of the logo has to be on the dial, if you remember that really decided to go on this ton surpon. So.
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Make it there so it's there, but really in a discrete way to give space to the beauty of the sound sandwich dial and the index layout and so on on this matte grained mocassit black.
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Dial. So I think it's really going back and forth and you coming with a bold idea and then me coming back a little bit and bringing it into the Alpina.
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DNA and then finding an approach that makes it exciting enough, but that also respects the Code. So anyway, super happy with the result.
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A
I really, really think that one of the boldest things that you did was to keep that tonsiton logo and the automatic text and also to, you know, the black type counterpoise on the seconds hand. It's a really, I think, edgy approach to the existing C strung DNA to kind of pare it back entirely. So from some angles it's just totally focused on the markers, the hour, the minute hand loom, obviously, which stands out against the blacker background and their black frames and also then that blazing bright orange secondhand. So thanks for having the faith in us to do that. And I think that is created like something that really does stand out.
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C
Alan, you took the words out of my mouth. So.
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Both you and I, Rob, love Tonon Tonon Tons Hutton. We pitch the brand.
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Often we have the luxury to have carte blanche. So did you said, hey guys, I'm open to think about it, pitch whatever you want. And when Rob and I were internally discussing should we do it? They'll never go for it. But you know what, always start high and then you'll see where you land. And we were actually amazed that you ran with that because a lot of brands wouldn't have dared to do so. Maybe you could tell us, Oliver, why you did. And B, what is the process internally? I mean, you are two big brands and you have a big mother company, but I believe you guys have rather big autonomy. Maybe walk us and the listeners and viewers through how that process of decision making goes within your company.
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B
So, yeah, it's an interesting question as well.
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I think the first important thing to mention here is that we have two completely different DNAs. And with Alpina, we have the chance of also being able to take some Boulder moves. We have the different universes that are, you know, that are part of our DNA. We have these sturdy, strong watches, but we have a history of innovation, of trying things, of pushing the limits.
- [13:42]
And we can play with that. And the beauty of it is that we still have this autonomy to come with some bolder approaches and to propose them after that, obviously there is still the process of validation to some extent to make sure that we're still within respecting some of the brand codes and that we.
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Yeah, have this.
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Creativity that's integrated in what the DNA that we have. So bringing that together, I think that it's a good example of it. Right. Also, Niels, of course, with our sister Brande Constant also finds some very interesting approaches to bring creativity also in a more classic and elegant brand. And different positioning. But I think with Alpina, you know, you actually have a world of options, you know, that you can use and the freedom also to experiment.
- [14:50]
A
So talk to us about how we're actually going to distribute this watch because people will have seen it by, by now I'm hoping that everybody has skipped off to the landing page to have a good look at the watch and had a good look at the images as well and maybe even received an email from either us, you or both directly. What's the availability like? You know, it's on sale from November 27th and it's not limited to a particular number, is it? But tell us what the process is like and where people can hope to find one.
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B
Yeah, so indeed sales start as of the 27th of November. So this is going to be an online exclusive for the first weeks of the, of the sales. So really into January will be, will be online exclusive, which is, we have a first batch of production which is coming into availability as of 27th November. So to make sure that we can deliver the first client and the real time show community in firsthand, that's for sure. We've got a second batch coming into January and following, let's say two months of online exclusivity, where we're going to be, you know, communicating and bringing also some some special insights on the, on the watch. We then open it also to our retail as retail, traditional retail remains also very important for, for Alpina in terms of availability, distribution and partnerships. So they also get access after two months to a certain number of pieces that will be available at your local retailer. So that's the process. But what's important to say is that we have a limited number as of the 27th of November we're looking at about 50 pieces. And then second batch will be coming into January.
- [16:46]
C
And for our dear listeners and viewers, as you know, every collab we make, Rob and I have one. Ours is on the way while we're recording this one, but we'll have a physical one like we do with every collab we do. We have our channel for the experience of the watches, our call up watches. So join our WhatsApp community. We'll rotate the watches that go from wrist to wrist of our community members. But in my personal offices in Amsam in London, we'll have in that window of two months each one in Amsterdam and London, one to try on. They're not for sale. Those are our personal pieces, but you can try them on if you are on the fence. I want to experience them before ordering it on the dedicated landing page for the Alpina X TRTS collab.
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A
Yeah. I'm quite unsurprised that you didn't dare attempt the full name of this watch because it has got quite a long name. I just about have learned it myself now is the Alpena X the Real Time show. C Strong Diver Extreme Automatic. And you have to call it exactly that whenever you refer to it in future. Okay. Because, you know, branding is everything. Yeah.
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C
So let's have our community give it a nickname. And obviously within plan laht at. At your offices, Oliver. It's called now the TRTS Diver. But then we have a problem. What if we do chapter two ever in the future, then we really run into a problem because we need to come up with a new name.
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A
I think that we probably should focus on the dial color. Right. So we're going to call it the Shadow to begin with because it's a dark and stealthy model and if we ever did a second edition update of this dial format or this layout, then I'm sure, obviously that's what we changed first. So, yeah, we'll stick with that.
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C
Cool fact, though. You brought. You surprised us during Geneva watch days, Oliver, where we were the official media partner for the trade show. And fun fact, your video interview of your. The video of the interview you did was one of the top three interviews. And the LinkedIn post where there is a picture of the three of us was the number one posts we did. But I know why. Because look how handsome you are.
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A
So.
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C
And obviously Dutch handsomeness because. Because Rob again did not manage to pronounce your name.
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Yeah, yeah.
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B
So it's probably, probably a mix between, you know, how good we look together and then a little bit of irony.
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C
No, it's. It's the, it's the Dutch jeans that. But on a serious note, you surprised us with the prototype. I almost fell off my chair because I was blown away because you obviously send us pictures. When it rolled out the factory.
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B
We.
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C
Had the owner to wear it a bit. And those that are really, really in the know recognize the case shape and bezel. And then when they came closer to our wrists, they're like. Because they couldn't see the logo, they were like in doubt. Like, wow, this is one of the coolest Alpina we've seen. Those that aren't that familiar with Alpina were blown away. And then what I usually do, I'm like, I asked them, what do you think it is? A and B, how much do you think this costs? And from those samples that I took is the majority didn't know what it was and almost everyone thought it was above 10k euro. So it shows the pedigree of the brand and the product you make. Now maybe, if I may and Rob, maybe I'm deviating because we're just jamming here together is a question I got. How can Alpina produce this quality at this price point? Because I want to do a little, little, little intermezzo. You launched a new Carre model again that was I think a Europe exclusive or something. Last week or a few weeks ago I saw and for the original revive of the model, I believe two years ago, you made a manufacturer caliber and that's something not many people know. Obviously our model has an off the shelf high quality caliber. But we, we were even blown away by, and I say this in brackets, how low the price is for this watch. Well, how can you guys accomplish this?
- [21:34]
B
So yeah, it's a good, it's a very good question. Obviously hard work and you know, wanting to position the brand as the highest value brand within the premium, premium priced Swiss made sports watch segment. So for me that's really between 1,000 and 3,000. So we're around 2,195 to be precise actually on our particular model.
- [22:02]
So that means that we're spot on because we want this perceived value to be high and much higher than expected. And that's the proof when you were at Geneva watch days and walking around with the watch on your wrist and asking the question, I also do that exercise myself and it's true that it often gets positioned 3,000 and above for sure and goes even much higher than that. So that's definitely.
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The objective. So obviously the materials that were chosen, the finishing of the extreme case works very well. So this no different layer case design with four layers all manufactured independently with different types of finishing and.
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Makes gives it this high perceived value and this beautiful reflections within, within the light. But then yeah, for sure. I mean we, we margin we the margin wise, it's also an investment that is made on our side to be able to position ourselves within the segment.
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A
I think that's what I love most about the design. How it's been so cleverly constructed so that you can get the very best out of the price point you're working in. You know how to apply those finishes at the level you're able to and then put them all together so the transitions are absolutely crisp and perfect. When you say like the margin, like isn't. Well, it's obviously not Very large. Is that a decision, a group wide decision to make sure that Alpina is able to play that role and bring people into that universe so that other brands are able to experiment in the higher end of horology?
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B
Yeah, sure. Well, of course, you know, there's a different segmentation also of price points and according to the different movement categories and different calibers and so on. And for us at the moment in Alpina, we don't have manufacturer movement, so this might, might change. We might have a few surprises coming also in the next months, but we're really focusing on this premium segment. So yeah, of course we've got some price points and margin targets that have to be respected, you know, all in all. But given our, given our positioning and given the segments that we're, that we're in, this is, this is an investment that is made also for sure.
- [24:36]
C
Now, if I may, I want to.
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Tackle, I think the question we're going to receive the most from the day we launch this model is this watch looks like a strap monster. Is it? So before we answer yes or no, I guess the biggest debate Rob and I internally had, and then the two of us with Oliver and his team, what do we do with straps? Do we do the awesome metal strap? Because the metal bracelet on the Alpiner and the seastrome, which share the same DNA, is fantastic. And I wasn't a big fan of rubber until recently and actually I blame you, Rob, with your archonaut watches. Damn you. And especially the integrated rubber straps. So in the end, I have to admit, Rob convinced me to go for rubber. But boys and girls, don't worry. Alpena has an awesome orange trap. You have this strap in black. Blue. And you can obviously order the metal bracelet. Did I forget a color, Oliver?
- [25:49]
B
No, Orange. Black. And the stainless steel bracelet. Yeah.
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And blue. Navy we said.
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C
And blue. And blue. Yeah, navy blue. And do you guys offer them online on your website or should people go to their local Alpina dealers for those straps?
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B
So both options are possible. So these straps are available within the collection. So they're available on the website first of all. But then of course you can also check them out at your local retailer.
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I must say that it does look indeed awesome. The watches and the finishing of the bracelet is also quite exceptional. When you were speaking about value also and the way it looks, you know, for the price point on bracelet is also quite amazing. Now, being a diver, I think the original design from Rob also was on the rubber. It looks awesome that way. But that's the beauty of it. Right. I mean, the options are there.
- [26:50]
A
It is incredible how well it wears on the bracelet and how well balanced it is on the wrist, because the watch is 12 millimeters thick, which is with the rubber, the way that it's formed, because it's very ergonomically shaped so that there's an immediate drop off after the edge. And for lugs around the wrist, it sits very, very tightly. But then when you switch out for the bracelet, obviously you'd expect a little bit more movement because a bracelet slides around a bit more than the rubber does. But the weight on either side is so brilliantly distributed, it just sits exactly where you want it to and it adds this sort of level of elegance to it. Oh, you're actually wearing one. I'm jealous. There you go. Look at that. It does stand out.
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B
Doesn't probably wearing one. Yeah.
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C
Took him 27 minutes to show us.
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Keeping us in suspense.
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A
That's beautiful. I can't wait to see it start to hit the wrists of some of the members of the community. And we're looking forward to obviously getting their feedback and relaying that to you as well, and then continuing to push and market the watch, like in the future, hopefully do some events together next year, bring it to a wider audience and who knows, could be the first step in a long and fruitful collaboration.
- [28:02]
B
Absolutely, yeah. So indeed, super, super excited about it. Maybe just a couple of points still. We're speaking about the design of the. The extreme case, and I think it's. It's important to mention that it's also a creation of Manuel Dasil van Matos, who sadly left us last week. So it's an honor and an homage also to have this, this piece and this creation coming out there. And yeah, speaking about collaborations, again, there are two things that came up to mind for me. It's the Alpinist principles, which sort of summarized what I mentioned earlier on. So one is really in line with our roots. So stay true to your roots. So that's really true to the Alpena legacy, the Alpina heritage of collaboration and.
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So on. And then the second one is also trust your instincts. Right. So when you trust your instincts, and I think we've got a good example here, here as well, with what we're talking about, with perseverance, also as a third one. So, yeah, I think the Alpinist principles and philosophy as well.
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Coming back into this collaboration together.
- [29:17]
A
Well, what a beautiful way to wrap things up. Oliver, thank you again for your time. Thank you for your trust in the realtime show and the support that you've shown us all the way through. Like we're over three years old now and you've been there with us every step of the way. So thank you for that. Thanks to the listeners. Thanks to the viewers. Hopefully you will enjoy this new watch that we've released together. Please do give us your feedback and get in touch via the usual channels. You can even contact us on Instagram. You can see my handle on the screen down there. You can see alons next to his name as well. If you want to contact David you can contact him at D a v A u C H e r and scarlet at scarlindashire which is S c a r l I n T H e S H I r E Hit us up on the contact form on www.therealShow and please check back in with us soon for more top quality watch content and interviews with the industry's finest. Until then, stay safe and keep on ticking.
- [30:22]
Sat.