Time To Watches: Breva Geneve

Summary

Podcast Summary: The Real Time Show – "Time To Watches: Breva Geneve"

Release Date: May 22, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Julien from Breva Genève

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Introduction to Breva Genève

In the latest episode of "The Real Time Show," hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph welcome Julien from Breva Genève to discuss the revival of the esteemed watchmaking brand. The conversation unfolds in the serene setting of the Villa Sarasan’s glass igloo, providing a picturesque backdrop that highlights Breva Genève’s elegant timepieces.

Breva Genève: A Brand Reborn

Julien shares the history and revival of Breva Genève, a brand originally launched in 2010 renowned for its innovative complication barometer altimeter watches. However, Breva Genève ceased operations in 2015. After a decade-long hiatus and concluding his work with HYT, Julien felt compelled to resurrect Breva Genève, aiming to preserve its original DNA while infusing new life into its storytelling and product offerings.

Julien (00:56): "Breva was something I always keep in mind because I met the founder in 2010 and Breva, the name and the concept, the DNA was really cool."

Design Philosophy and Aesthetics

A significant portion of the discussion centers around Breva Genève’s distinctive design elements. Julien emphasizes the importance of creating a unique signature through the watch's hands and overall dial design. The introduction of a cushion-shaped case, inspired by elegant designs from brands like Radiomir and Laurent Ferrier, positions Breva Genève as a brand that values both tradition and modernity.

Julien (02:56): "We decided to have a real signature for the dial... To create a real signature and a real DNA on the watch."

Rob praises the exceptional craftsmanship, noting how the intricate details and finishing elevate the watch's aesthetic appeal.

Rob Nudds (03:56): "There's nothing quite like it. The level of finishing on this piece is incredible."

Innovative Complications and Functionality

Breva Genève distinguishes itself through innovative watch complications. Julien discusses the development of a seven-day power reserve based on the C101 movement, ingeniously split into two indicators: one displaying the first six days and another indicating the final 24 hours.

Julien (02:39): "This is something really clever, very smart, to know if you still have energy."

This dual-indicator system not only enhances functionality but also adds a layer of sophistication to the watch, making it both practical and visually appealing.

Exquisite Craftsmanship and Pricing

The conversation delves into the meticulous craftsmanship that justifies Breva Genève’s premium pricing. The basic titanium model is priced at 46,000 Swiss francs (excluding taxes), reflecting the brand’s commitment to quality and exclusivity. Julien highlights the intricate details, such as engraving, miniature painting, and applique work, that make each dial a masterpiece.

Julien (04:11): "It's a real piece for collectors with a lot of details, subtle details."

Rob underscores the importance of the dial in consumers' purchasing decisions, reiterating that Breva Genève has successfully created a harmonious and captivating watch face.

Rob Nudds (05:05): "The dial does always come out on top of the main factors in purchasing decisions."

Strategic Market Entry and Limited Editions

Breva Genève is strategically entering the global market with limited edition releases to create exclusivity. Julien mentions the launch of a limited edition of 25 rose gold pieces, catering to collectors seeking uniqueness. Following this, the brand plans to release a titanium version with various dial colors, targeting key markets in Asia, the US, and the Middle East.

Julien (07:06): "We started with a limited edition of 25 pieces, rose gold... now we decided to launch titanium version with different color dial."

Future Plans and Product Development

Looking ahead, Julien outlines a clear product roadmap extending to 2023, with ambitions to introduce new high-end complications such as advanced weather functionalities. The brand plans to reinterpret classic complications like chronographs and grandats, ensuring each new release aligns with Breva Genève’s elegance and exclusivity.

Julien (14:03): "I start with product for the coming three years... a new high end complication, meaning something like the weather."

Navigating Market Challenges and Leveraging Production Capacity

Despite current market challenges, Julien expresses confidence in Breva Genève’s resilience. By capitalizing on available production capacities and maintaining stringent quality controls, the brand aims to produce limited quantities without compromising on excellence.

Julien (12:03): "I put all my own money on the table to do that."

This strategic approach allows Breva Genève to navigate market uncertainties while ensuring that each timepiece meets the highest standards.

Industry Partnerships and Community Support

The episode highlights Breva Genève’s collaborations with industry stalwarts, including Jean Francois Meugent from Konod and Aurelien Ambusher. These partnerships reinforce the brand’s commitment to quality and innovation, positioning Breva Genève as a formidable player in the luxury watch market.

Rob Nudds (06:14): "Chronode has been approached by pretty much every brand under the sun... Concepts with Aurelien Bocher because his work is peerless, second to none."

Final Thoughts and Future Prospects

In concluding the conversation, the hosts express optimism about Breva Genève’s potential impact on the luxury watch industry. They commend Julien’s entrepreneurial spirit and the brand’s meticulous attention to detail, forecasting a bright future for Breva Genève.

Alon Ben Joseph (19:11): "That's a watch that in my home opinion deserves a warm welcome."

Ben: "If you haven't discovered the watches yet, we kindly invite you to give it a look."

Notable Quotes

• Julien (00:56): "Breva was something I always keep in mind because I met the founder in 2010 and Breva, the name and the concept, the DNA was really cool."

• Julien (02:39): "This is something really clever, very smart, to know if you still have energy."

• Julien (04:11): "It's a real piece for collectors with a lot of details, subtle details."

• Rob Nudds (05:05): "The dial does always come out on top of the main factors in purchasing decisions."

• Julien (12:03): "I put all my own money on the table to do that."

• Alon Ben Joseph (19:11): "That's a watch that in my home opinion deserves a warm welcome."

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Conclusion

The episode of "The Real Time Show" offers an insightful exploration into Breva Genève’s renaissance. Guided by Julien’s expertise and passion, listeners gain a comprehensive understanding of the brand’s vision, innovative designs, and strategic market approaches. Breva Genève's commitment to excellence and unique storytelling positions it as a noteworthy contender in the high-end watchmaking arena.

Transcript

[Alon]

Foreign.

[Rob Nudds]

Hello, watch fans and welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds, our friendly neighborhood jeweler, Alon, Ben, Joseph and Julien from Braver Geneva. Nice to have you in the glass igloo.

[Julien]

Yes, thank you guys to welcome you.

[Rob Nudds]

How are you finding the climate in our little bubble?

[Julien]

It's very cool. It's very cool. I'm so happy to be with you.

[Joseph]

But he's not talking about the temperature though.

[Julien]

No, it's quite okay. You know, it doesn't change anything for me, because from here or the other side is the same.

[Rob Nudds]

Of course, because you're in the greenhouse, the glass box on the edge of Villa Sarasan, which is a great place to show because of the natural light that floods in.

[Julien]

It's my old garden.

[Rob Nudds]

Yes, it is wonderful. And it reveals your new timepieces in a perfect light.

[Alon]

So people can really appreciate the depth.

[Rob Nudds]

And the complexity of these watches. Tell us more about the Breva project.

[Julien]

Yes, sure. So Breva was born 2010. It was very well known at this stage because the brand launched a complication barometer altimeter for the wrists. So it was something really crazy and amazing. Unfortunately, the brand was died in 2015. So during almost 10 years, nothing happened. And when I stopped and finished with HYT was my last job, I decided to launch something for my own. So Breva was something I always keep in mind because I met the founder in 2010 and Breva, the name and the concept, the DNA was really cool. So for me it was just natural to come back to Breva and try to do something with it. So I started to work on it two years ago now. And we keep the DNA of the brand. So born in Como Lake in Italy. So the storytelling is just incredible. You imagine river on the lake, sunset, Fritz, Dolce vita, everything is in. And of course, in terms of product, we launched something really cool, really special. Come back with Jean Francois Meugent. For the movement, we develop a power reserve seven days based on the C101 movement. And we split the power reserve in two different indicators. You have a first part start indicates the first six days, and when you arrive at one day, the second hand start to indicate the last 24 hours. So it's something really clever, very smart, to know if you still have energy.

[Rob Nudds]

In your watch on it, you've described the function perfectly. But for our listeners who may not have seen this watch, because it's very striking and it sticks out from the crowd, could you describe the aesthetics and how abreva is instantly identifiable.

[Julien]

You mean by the design or the dial or something?

[Rob Nudds]

By the hands. More than anything.

[Julien]

The hands. Okay, the hands. So, yes, we decided to have a real signature for the dial, you know, because today it's not only to create a watch, it's to find a good way to make a real signature and a real DNA on the watch. So first I decided to launch a cushion case, not a round case. Cushion for me is something really elegant. I love so much different cushion case from the market, from some brand. Radio Mirpanei. Yes, and Laurent Ferrier. So for me it was clear it should be a cushion case to start and after that inspired by instrument of time to measure time or weather or what you want. And really interesting to see in the past how the dial of this instrument was displayed with very nice hands, color material. It was really nice finishing. So I tried to keep this on the product, on the design.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah, it really does stand out. There's nothing quite like it. The level of finishing on this piece is incredible. And I think it more than justifies the price point which we should talk about now. What are we looking at for the basic model?

[Julien]

So we started with a titanium version, 46,000 Swiss francs, excluding taxes. But in terms of finishing, for us, it's a real piece for collectors with a lot of details, subtle details. Inside the dial we have of course engraving, miniature painting. We have applique. We have many things that your dial is living. So we have a deep blue brush, satin vertical by hands. You feel like on the Comoleque, you know, depends of your. You oriented your watch with the sun, with the bright. It's just amazing. So for us it was important to provide to the customer something really special on the wrist with really a lot of details. The same for dial and not only the movement. The dial is so important, possibly the most important.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah, to be fair, you're probably right. I think recently there was a poll conducted as the main factor in purchasing decisions amongst consumers. And the dial does always come out on top of. It's interesting of course, because you can't have a dial without a case. Of course you can have a case without a dial, but that's not my kind of watch to begin with.

[Alon]

But it's.

[Rob Nudds]

It's a whole concept and I think you've realized it perfectly. Everything harmonizes so nicely. Question is, do you have a multi year product plan ahead of you for high Braver is going to evolve and develop and take it in new directions.

[Julien]

You know, I'm in the watch industry since 20 years now. So when I decided to relaunch Breva, it's not only a product, it's a question of storytelling. People behind the brand, behind the product itself. I mean, I have a team with Jean Francois Mergeon from Konod, Cad Ranor for the dial, Aurelien Ambusher for the case. So meaning that I have really good people behind. So for me it's a clear vision until let's say 230. So it's product plan for five years.

[Rob Nudds]

Very good. What a super team. What a super team. Behind you.

[Joseph]

Yeah, yeah, yeah.

[Julien]

I'm a lucky guy. I'm a lucky guy because when I started to present my projects, they said, okay, I want to be in sure.

[Rob Nudds]

And that, that means a lot because maybe people listening to the show aren't aware. Chronode has been approached by pretty much every brand under the sun over the last five years as their work became better known outside of closed watchmaking circles. And the same can be said of course for Concepts with Aurelien Bocher because his work is peerless, second to none, I would say. In fact, he worked on the early versions of the watch I'm wearing on my wrist right now, I believe because I saw the 3D prints of it in his office when I was there recently and I think he wears one himself. I've got a Laventure Transatlantic 2 on my wrist, by the way. So, you know, these things filter throughout the industry. The quality finds the right places and the right partners. I want to know if you have any retail partners in the world.

[Julien]

Yes. In fact, my strategy is as follow. I launched a limited edition of 25 pieces rose gold you saw yesterday. This piece is dedicated for more collectors people. And now we decided to launch titanium version with different color dial. And this collection is decade for the market. Okay. So since we are here since Tuesday morning, I met a lot of people, retailer, agent, distributor. And I can feel that there is a little bit excitement around the brand and the product itself. So we already have a discussion to open some retailers, of course in Asia, us, Middle east, start next tomorrow after tomorrow. But yes, we open already some markets I will say for the coming months.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah.

[Joseph]

I want to compliment you on your marketing because of Espresso started receiving the TV teasers many weeks ago.

[Julien]

Yeah.

[Joseph]

And I got excited because I vividly remember the first Breva which were the Genie series 0102 03. And so I'm like, oh, could this be another? Because I found them more not tool esque watches, but more as an instrument panel ish display where you had half skeletonization and overlay of sub dials. So it's very curious where you took it. I, in a positive sense, was surprised when I got the embargoed pictures as press. Very elegant because you start teasing with a riverboat and Lake Como. And when I saw you yesterday, I, I kid around and I'm 100% sure you were the model because you look very healthily tanned as if you come back from Lake Comop.

[Julien]

Of course, I spend my time on my riba in Como Lake. Of course.

[Joseph]

And I kid around that I congratulated you on your entrepreneurship because after fulfilling key positions in the watchmaking industry and we just did a run down memory lane and probably you and I worked together at Ebelle with the two Flying Dutchmen at the helm back then. So you've been around and, and I, I have two questions. The first one on product level as a segue is did you immediately knew when you bought the brand because it was dormant, Right. You didn't buy a going concern?

[Julien]

Yeah, sure.

[Joseph]

So, Derwin, did you immediately know I need a style break, I'm going to do something different, or was it an option to keep the heritage of what was out there?

[Julien]

Really, really good question, Alan. In fact, I will be fully honest with you. As a marketing guy, I was more on, okay, I will relaunch the weather forecast watch. And I say, okay, it's cool, but it's expensive. Today's market is different. And finally I decided to say, okay, in any case, I have to develop another collection. And my strategy was to launch a new version of the weather and after, to come with a second collection. And after a while, I said, no, I'm wrong because I'm not a marketing guy. I'm just my own entrepreneur. So I have to propose something else on the market. And I come back with a new storytelling. But it was never used before. It's Italy Comolic elegance, exclusivity, luxury, and so on. So it was. The design was done in 10 days. Imagine I make my brief. I went to Fabrice Gaunet Edge Design. I said, I told him, okay, this is my brief. What do you think? You look at me and say, I know. Ten days after I have the first draft of the design.

[Rob Nudds]

If only. Everything moves so quickly in watchmaking.

[Julien]

Could you imagine? Yeah, because, you know, when everything is aligned, it's clear, it's. And the story, the product, the message, everything is right. In fact, how do you feel about.

[Rob Nudds]

The timing of it all, though? Because, I mean, we're Coming out of some pretty dark, tumultuous years in the industry. And it's projected there's a couple more to go, but maybe now is the time to get in.

[Julien]

What do you think that's the best time to do things? Yeah, for me. Yeah. Because when it's crisis, when something is difficult, if I'm success in this kind of period, for me it's, it's great after of course and people need to find something different and of course it's the risk. I put all my own money on table to do that.

[Rob Nudds]

Crazy.

[Julien]

But I'm confident because I know where I'm going and I think the first feedback that I received since three days. Sorry, it's just saying. Okay, I'm right.

[Joseph]

To link to what you said, Rob, in this down cycle, let's call it. Is it also an added benefit that you have more production capacity with these rock star manufacturers?

[Julien]

Yeah.

[Joseph]

Is that an, Is that an. Is it an unplanned benefit? Because in the, the hot cycle of things there's waiting lists also in production.

[Julien]

Yeah.

[Joseph]

Well, you say my network was good enough. I had the access anyways.

[Julien]

Yeah, I would say I think the network is good enough. And the project itself, I'm not in a big quantity. My goal is to have 200 pieces per year and maybe let's say 300 maximum. So it's more about the project, the motivation they have. Of course it's a risk in terms of money on my side, but it's much, much risky on the other side with the volume and quantity.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah, you're right because of course they have so many options. They can pick and choose the projects they want and to have them. I mean people that know exactly what they're doing, exactly what they're looking at on side is just an incredible way to get started. So future is bright, right? The future is braver.

[Julien]

I think. I think yes. I. I have the wind with me. So should be. Should be okay. Should be okay.

[Joseph]

Confident hypothetical question would be you wouldn't have started with a non complicated watch as looking at the heritage of Reva, the pipeline. Now are you gonna move up market in the years or would there be a simpler in air quotes, three handers for example or small seconds or.

[Julien]

I started with. I'm not fully agree when we say it's simple complication because in fact to split the power reserve is not so simple and it was for me exactly what I want to do with my product. It's a complication not too complicated to produce reason why I use movement C101 from Jean from 10 years now it's stable, it's fearful. So I start with product for the coming three years. I have to install the brand first. I don't want to make the mistake to after one year. Oh, I have to change. I have to develop something new because it cost a lot of money. So my product plan is pretty clear. Come with this first complication. I start in two years. A new high end complication, meaning something like the weather some years ago. But it takes two or three years of development. And between that, the goal for me in product is to reinterpret some, I would say complications. Chronograph, Fazdelune, we can imagine Grandat and so on. But in a way like we. We did with power reserve.

[Joseph]

I stand corrected. I didn't mean the current one is simple. I meant would you gear back? Yeah, to non complicated ones. That's what I meant.

[Julien]

Yeah, okay.

[Joseph]

No, this one is. Is fantastic. Very cool, but elegant. Yeah, complicated often is has a correlation to unreadable. And this is very legible.

[Ben]

So I meant that.

[Julien]

No, I don't. I don't want to come back in a simple. I don't. I don't think so. Because I enter in a very huge and massive market with the three hands and so on. If I do that, probably I will do something special with these three hands, to say three hands, for example. So something never seen before.

[Rob Nudds]

Oh, I love that. What a sound bite upon which to end.

[Julien]

You know, with Jean Francois merge, we meet each other quite often and we speak a lot and we share ideas and I can tell you we have many ideas for many things. So even the three hands it will be not three hands, it will be something different with the three hands.

[Rob Nudds]

Yeah, I can very well imagine. Or I guess the point is I really can't imagine. And that's the exciting part of it. Julian, thank you so much for your time.

[Julien]

Thanks for you. Thanks to you.

[Rob Nudds]

Thanks for bringing this brand back to life, back to our attention, back to the world and to time to watch us wish you a great end to a wonderful fair.

[Joseph]

Congratulation. Good luck.

[Julien]

Thank you guys.

[Alon]

Well, that was unexpected. Honestly, I have to say, Bravo was not a brand that I had at the top of my head. When I got here to Geneva and looked around the Villa Saracen on the first day, as everything was setting up, I saw it and I was like, oh, interesting. That'll be a fun interview. Of course, it's always great to talk to Julien and there's a man that's got a huge amount of experience and has been in many lofty positions around the industry in the past and now is, ooh, staring down a difficult challenge of starting or restarting a. A very high end brand in this climate. I think, I mean we said off air, didn't we, alon that like at least the brand is high end enough to stand a good chance. I think if it finds the right market and it gets the traction that it needs in the early days, there's potential for it to become just a. Another brand that we take for granted existing in the industry. But it's never easy, is it? Never easy to start something like that.

[Joseph]

Well said. Julian is an old friend.

[Ben]

The last title he had was at hyt. He has the pedigree. He's worked all his life in watchmaking and mostly auto luxury. I was very surprised in a positive sense to get the press releases before the fair and I was very excited to see them in the metal. Breva, I think was originally launched in 2013 in Baselworld. I remember it vividly. They had like a barometer and very technical. Unfortunately they didn't have a long life. Julian did an interesting thing. He took it less tool watch esque and made it more elegant. Cushy shaped case. He linked it to Lake Como. So Riva boats, more lifestyle. It's more about La Dolce Vita. They're two retrograde hands that look like crossing swords. Very interesting, slim, very high end, but it does give you that luxury feel. I was very surprised in a positive sense. I really liked it and I'm very critical if we need more watch brands and especially those that are at the right end of the high end spectrum. But this is a watch that in my home opinion deserves a warm welcome.

[Alon]

Yeah, it does and it got one. I mean it was a brand, like I said, that I didn't go there thinking about but left very enthused about. And I heard the same from everybody that saw the watches. Everybody that was passing by the booth came away of the same impression. Like these are incredibly done, like beautifully made. Gorgeous, gorgeous finishing. Nice little aesthetic quirks as well. I love the hands, like the crossed hands at six o' clock. I think that's such a, such an unusual look, such an incredible thing to build a brand around almost. And yeah, it's a cushion shaped case and obviously that in itself is not remarkable. But there aren't as many of them as we think, are there? I mean it has got a very Panerai esque silhouette to be fair. The lugs are Somewhere between Radiomir and a luminor. They're obviously not wire lugs, but they're much slimmer than the luminor lugs. And I think it's very elegant. It wears extremely well. The proportions of everything. The crown particular, the lovely thin bezel. Given the full space to the dial aperture and that dome crystal is all handled masterfully. I think that it will have success. The price point is around 60,000 francs before taxes.

[Ben]

No, we saw two pieces and limited indeed to 25. You're right. It's 58,000 Swiss francs x taxes. What I loved about what he does, he took it the MB and F style, focusing on the F of friends. He's very transparent who he works with and he took the top of the top. So if I remember correctly, he worked with Jean Francois Monjean from Cronode for the caliber work with edge design on the designs of things. I think Cadron O was the dahl maker, in case I don't remember, but very, very high end. And he takes things very serious and qualitative.

[Joseph]

So.

[Ben]

I think that he was one of the anchor exhibitors at Time to Watch. I think he created a lot of traffic for the fair that people wanted.

[Joseph]

To come see it.

[Alon]

Yeah, I mean, it's one of the, if not the highest end brand showing Villa Saracen. And I don't think that Bravo would have really worked at Time to watches in the past at Hedge Universe. I don't think that was the right environment for it, but they had like the. The apex position in the conservatory of the villa, which was a beautiful environment and I think totally fitting and worthy of a brand that has such a luxury vibe to it. I mean, I do love the Lake Como stuff. I think it kind of works, you know, with the marine blue dial in this. Well, yeah, you've got the rose gold option. We think there's a white gold option as well. Right. But I can't see it on the website. I'm sure there was one that we saw in real life.

[Joseph]

I think so too.

[Ben]

But we had a lot of whiskey with Julian while recording, so.

[Alon]

Hey, I didn't touch a drop. Don't paint me with the same brush here.

[Ben]

Yeah, until I left.

[Alon]

Yeah, until you left.

[Ben]

Yeah. So no, lovely time. If you haven't discovered the watches yet, we kindly invite you to give it a look. I'm quite sure you'll just enjoy the visual effects on your eyes by studying it.

[Alon]

I would guess, by the way, just because we've been through the movement maker and obviously Julien's background I'm gonna guess that the case is probably AB Concepts, because if you're going to go high end, you've got to go there. Like, that's where all the best cases are made in the industry. Okay. That's a controversial statement, but certainly a lot of the best cases are made there. And I wouldn't be surprised if that's who's behind this. But we can check that and confirm that when we get Julian on the show for a full hour. Because we need to get him on, don't we? He's a great guy and, you know, a legend in the industry. And hopefully this is going to establish that legend even further.

[Ben]

Amen.

[Julien]

It.