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Alan
FOREIGN.
Rob Nudds
Welcome to another edition of the Real Time show with me, your friendly neighborhood watchmaker, Rob Nudds. I'm here in the glass igloo outside Villa Sarasan for time to watches 2025 with Chris from Exequo. A very interesting watch brand that has been showing today on the upper levels of the villa. Tell us how has the fair been for you so far, Chris?
Chris
Yeah, thank first of all, thank you for the opportunity to talk about of the. To talk about the brand and the watches that we are introducing. The affair is amazing, is very interesting. We met a lot of clients that are in the business, but also a lot of clients that are private and very affectionados of the brand. They are. There are many fan lovers because the brand has a long history. Not too much long, but quite interesting. If you wish, I can talk a bit about it.
Rob Nudds
I would absolutely love to hear more about the history of Exequal.
Chris
Yeah, Exsquo started in the 80s is a brand that started the business in Geneva. And the company name was also Exequo. And finally he started to create watches that could be at the same time modern, artistic, but keeping the tradition. That is one of the main point of the Swiss watches. So finally they decided to call the company and the brand Ixico, that means from the Latin, equally so for the same value. So tradition, surrealism and the same value have the same value. So finally they started to create a brand that looks like a round watch that has been melted and became what is called a melting watch. So finally the melting watch was introduced on the market in on the 87 and on the 88 was at Baselworld. And there it has been a great success that many people start falling in love with that brand. And also many celebrities purchased exiguo, like Paul McCartney, for example, and Jim Carrey, Jerry Lewis and many others. And what happens that the brand that was so big success that decided to join the forces with the most famous worldwide painter, Salvador Dali. And then they make an agreement with the company to manage the brand Salvador Dali. And finally the Ixico Dali watch was born. So it sold again million of watches. And after that, for several reasons, the company expired and we decided to relaunch one year ago, starting from the model that was the bestseller and the iconic watch that was the first melting watch. The melting watch is peculiar because it looks like also a beam. Maybe it depends on how you want to think about, but for sure it looks like a watch when you go into the sauna, sauna or and you go out and you see that the change completely designed. But it is really conic creation. I think because of the shape of the case, the shape of the buckle and the shape of the strap. I think there is nothing in the market like that. When I saw the brand, the watches on the first time I was 18, I see in a watch store and I saw what is it? Usually they are round, they are carry, they have a regular shape and what is it? And I felt in love. But it was quite expensive for me at the time. So finally for me it's like a dream that I have the opportunity to work with this brand to revive it. To revive it. And also I read about amazing history. There is Paul McCarthy that was an owner of Ixico Watches and there were rumors that he passed away.
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah, of course.
Chris
Finally he made. He gifted the watch to Jeff Emmerich, a person working with him where he wrote on the back of his sequel Paul is alive. And you can find. You can see this history on Google. It's quite amazing. So also Jim Carrey was wearing an Ink sequel when he went to introduce his movie the Mask. The movie the Mask with Cameron Diaz when he was in Cannes, he was wearing an Ink sequel. So I say, wow, it is an artistic watch. A real great artist. Love the watch. I love it too. And so why should it should not be revived. And that's why we went on the.
Rob Nudds
Market again one year back in business bringing an iconic artistic watch back from the dead effectively. How's it been going so far and why did you decide to come to Time to Watches? Was it to get some feedback from the community? Was it to find retail partners or to make new connections in the media world?
Chris
So the decision to be too time to watch is. There are several reasons for sure. We started we have many. We have a wide community because we started to deliver in July and we are at the beginning of April. So it's quite more than six months that we are delivering. But we are delivering in around 40 countries worldwide to our E Commerce. But what is important to say that many important name of the business as a retailer came to us and say we wish to have Hexico watches. And so we think that also for our client is interesting to have offline stores where they can live the experience to go in a store to touch and feel the watch instead of coming only to directly to the company. Because I think that the E Commerce is fantastic is amazing. But I think also that offline business is also important because the experience of touch and feel is something really important. So we decided to come to time to watches in order to find new clients, but mainly to meet the client where, where we have started the business and also to meet the client that want to discover the business. So finally we fixed the appointment to be in time to watches. Everyone came every hour. It was a really hard job. But we are really happy because we had the opportunity to meet also client that become friend. I mean not only the people of the community, I mean the collector and so on, but also the distributor, the retailer. And it's something that I love really much because also we come friend.
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah, yeah.
Chris
I become friend of a private client, but also of retailer, distributor. And I think it's the best because if you have a passion that you share all together, it's the best. Because it's not doing business.
Rob Nudds
No, it's a joy, right? It's a joy, it's a pleasure and it's a hobby almost, or at least it feels like it. It's. It is hard work, as you say, to be standing on your feet of all week and seeing new faces every hour, sometimes even more than one new face an hour and explaining the same story over and over again. But because you love it and you believe in it, it's not really the worst work in the world, is it? Now you've brought three examples of the watches along with you now. Three very distinct shapes. Two of them are more figure of 8ish, shall we say more traditionally melted. And then one looks like a slightly slanted pair of lips, shall we say the kiss watch, let's call it. Now, are these three forms, forms that have been revived from the previous collection or are these new interpretations of previous models?
Chris
So the one that I'm wearing is the previous collection that we have developed. We are working of the. We call it classical melting watch Classic. Why? Because we took the shape of the past. And for sure we improved the watch because we made a two level dial and we have added four screw on the back. So people can change the battery, fix the movement or change the movement if needed. Why? Because in the previous model of the 80s, it was mainly a monoblocks, it was one piece. So in order to change the battery, you had to remove the glass and then remove the dial, the hands. It was really a watchmaker job that many people don't like. I mean, I'm not talking about watchmaker, I'm talking about other kind of people. But. And also there was the risk to broke the glass and so on. So finally, this is the watch that we call it classic. And we are developing in Say standard color that we keep in our catalog and website. And about this model, we are here to introduce a new version because we add the new color with limited edition that people can see anytime to watch. And our website. But also as you said, we introduced two model, let's say completely new one that remember you the lips is a sketch that I found of the 80s. And I asked to Mr. Italo Fontana, a quite famous designer, is also the founder of Viewboat and our partner. I asked him please make an interpretation of this lips watch sketch that I found. And he said okay, I will do modern. And I think that the result is amazing because you have a very modern style that is unisec watch a bit bigger in comparison of the classic one. The name of this watch is Revolve because of the design of the past. And also because they have a revolve buckle, if we can say. And also because yeah, the buckle is made of in a butterfly is a butterfly buckle. And it's nice because it's modern, because it's is surrealist. So in the same concept of the philosophy of the brand. But it's also something really modern and new with the silicone band, with the index, with filling, with oil, with black oil and with Luminova. So it's completely a modern watch. And the other model is an evolution of the classic model. We call it Polyhedron because like a polyhedron it has many facets. In this case R62C. It is like a cut in 62 time by machine. So it is a very peculiar watch because it needs two day of job to create one watch case. Because one job is made by machine, by CNC machine, then another day is work by hand and then again by machine. So it's really an hard job to produce this case that is made also of sterling silver 925.
Rob Nudds
Very nice.
Chris
As can people can see in one of the cat or one of the facet. We put the log of the silver 925 that also wrote on the back. This watch is created for the 101 year of the surrealism. So it is 101 pieces. We have black dial, white dial and also we have another dial where it's written 101 years.
Rob Nudds
Nice.
Chris
But the full collection is 101 pieces only. And also it's peculiar because the index number are three dimensional. So it's really. I think it's a watch. But it's not only a watch, it's a piece of art and also is a piece of jewelry because it's in Precious Meta, we should not forget.
Rob Nudds
So what are the price points of these three pieces that you have with you today?
Chris
So the price point about the ixico classes is 520 up to 585 Swiss franc excluded VAT. And about the one that you call with the lips, the name is Revolve. The price point is 650 up to 700.
Unnamed Speaker
Okay, very good.
Chris
And the polyhedron, the sterling silver one, that is a piece of art and jewelry. Limited edition, 101 pieces only. The price is 2,250.
Rob Nudds
Brilliant. Chris, thank you so much for introducing exequo to us. It's a pleasure to have brands like yours here at Villa Saracen and I can't wait to come and talk to you again, learn more about the brand and hopefully get you back on the Real Time show in the future for a full length episode. Thank you for your time.
Chris
Thank you very much for the invitation, the opportunity. I love watches.
Rob Nudds
So do we all.
Unnamed Speaker
Well, you don't see that every day, do you? Alan, what did you make of the crazy surrealist pieces of Exequality?
Alan
For those that listen regularly to the Real Time show know that not only do I love the person Silva Meron, but also his watch. So I've obtained one of his and it's definitely a form shaped watch. I love that this brand's tagline is the melting watch. So some people have nicknamed Silver Veneron's watches the Crash by Cartier and therefore derive everything back to Dali. I guess they can say the same thing about this brand. Although the Revolve model might resemble a Cartier Crash marrying a Hamilton Elvis watch. But I loved the Polyhedron in sterling silver. So I don't know anything about this brand. I'm definitely going to listen to this episode. I missed them in the glass igloo. What are the price points, Rob, and how old is this brand and do they themselves think they're very unique?
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah. Okay, well starting with the price points, they start around 700, I think around that kind of ballpark that for the sterling silver polyhedron 925, they go up to €2,450. So they're not cheap. Question, how long have they been around? They've been around for longer than you'd imagine. They were around in the 90s and they were quite popular at that time. They had quite a few celebrities wearing these watches and they were directly inspired by Dali. Basically these ones were. So the crash wasn't. Theoretically these were taken from the persistence of memory, I think is the name of. Is that the melting clock picture?
Alan
I think so, yeah.
Unnamed Speaker
And as a result they, they kind of stand on their own. They're different from the Crash and they're different from the Mirage because they really do reference that openly that this is like a nod to the surrealist movement. And of course it was around. I think they were really popular around the time that Dali would have died, which I think was 1989, but don't.
Rob Nudds
Quote me on that.
Unnamed Speaker
So I think that they had like a moment in pop culture. You can see these on the wrists of like stars, TV stars in the early 90s, can't you can just imagine it. You can imagine Madonna wearing. We could imagine Adam Duritz wearing one. Like it seems like the kind of thing that they would have thought was super, super cool at the time. Now it's interesting because of course we both love the Mirage and it would track that we would therefore love this as well. I'm not such a huge fan of this as I am of the Mirage because there's a lot more logic of asymmetry that goes into the Mirage than there is here. This is more of a. A lifted concept from Dalli, who is one of my favorite artists of all time. But to me it feels a bit, how can I say it? A bit basic in some ways which is odd because it's. It's wild but it, it doesn't challenge me in any way. It's just. It's just there. What do you think about it as a product?
Alan
I like it and I love the fact that they call it the melting watch. And Cartier definitely doesn't have the exclusivity on this crash vibe thing. I'm happy that they've been around and they surfing that high rise and wave of form shaped watches price wise. I am curious if it's not difficult for them because it's a bit in the stuck in the middle segment of things. And you know what? It also reminds me but I don't know if you know the Grimaldi brothers from Milano that used to be retailers and also had watches under the Grimaldo Grimaldi name and also had these shapes.
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah. Funnily enough, I encountered some jewelry from Grimaldi in London at the after the British Watchmakers day in the pub, one of our new acquaintances pulled out this incredible vintage Grimaldi necklace and it was an absolute jaw dropper.
Alan
Yeah. Interesting. So I think it's cool and I assume they were a time to watches to find wholesalers, retailers, more press.
Unnamed Speaker
How.
Alan
How is it going for them?
Rob Nudds
What is going.
Unnamed Speaker
You know, they have a market, obviously. I know exactly the kind of, of client that would buy this watch. I met many of them again, I would imagine they're absolutely fine in the States. You know, I know I can almost picture the kind of guy that would be really into this kind of watch. And you know, there's something for everybody or somebody for anything that will go, we'll go with that one. Think of Atia, you know, Artia is going to be a watch that maybe even two or three in 100 people really like love the aesthetic of. And maybe one, one in a thousand people is going to buy it. But because of the price point and, and the limitation and the specialness of every piece, that's a market. It works, it's enough. And these guys, they have a, they have a place and they're doing something that nobody else is really doing because they are openly referencing the persistence of memory. Whereas the crash is its own thing. And its origins are steeped in legend, of course. And the burner on is a completely different, different animal itself, even though it is a form. Watch this exequo product or all of exequal products are their own thing.
Alan
And the name is the same as the Latin expression of the same of. They use it in sports. Right. That people come in at this first spot simultaneously. So it's not a tie, but you end up on the same position. Is that what they meant? Because it's in today's terms, difficult to spell the name.
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah, the name is something that, were it brought to me in a pre release branding meeting, I would have chucked out the window immediately because nobody instinctively knows how to spell it with the diphthong there, the ae after the X. From phonetically you'd probably want to spell it E X, E, E, Q, U, O. But it's a certain vibe. It's. It's complicated. It's. I think it's a bit more complicated than it needs to be for the products. I don't know whether I would have gone for something like lower hanging, you know, like surreal watch or something or. Yeah, I suppose you couldn't afford to license the Dali name, but the, you know, find a Latin word for persistence. If it was a bit more aesthetically pleasing. I don't know, it's. It's a tough one for me. Is it? It strikes me as a bit. Try hard. The name. That's my honest feeling.
Alan
Interesting.
Unnamed Speaker
You like it?
Alan
No, I don't. And no. No. Because the Latin. The Latin spelling is ex space. A E Q U O. And they've tied the two together. And their URL is x=watch.com. their email address is info xaquo-meltingwatch.com Niche if I surf their website in the footer, I try to click on about it doesn't work. So I. I think that they have some work to do. And on the fonts of the dial, I see also a lot happening. Besides, it's already a busy case and dial. They, they. They put the logo in the V of the number six upside down. So that's already. So it. It. The E doesn't start on top and tumbles down, but it's reversed. And then they wrote melting watch with a very Adish font. So my fingers start to itch now to come up with some iterations on the very cool cases.
Unnamed Speaker
My favorite thing they do, I've got to say, and I really actually like this, and this is something I might buy is the melting clock that they do. I think this is really cool and it's only €69, but, like, that's quite funny. That's a bit more like ornamental. I would, I would. I would definitely think about buying one of those for 70 bucks. That's fun.
Alan
Yeah, that is. I didn't even see that. So thank you for pointing that out. That's awesome.
Unnamed Speaker
Yeah. Well, on that note, I think we'll leave it. I think we would like to get exequal back on, speak to Chris again, and have a good chat about exactly how business works, what it looks like, what the volumes they're dealing with are. I mean, hopefully they'll give us a transparent view of the operation and where they're finding success, and I look forward to that. And if anyone in the audience has got any questions or feelings about this brand, because it is obviously a divisive one, then please do get in touch and let us know and we'll pass them on to the brand sa.
Podcast Summary: The Real Time Show – "Time To Watches: Exaequo"
Episode Information
In the June 14, 2025 episode of The Real Time Show, hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph delve into an engaging conversation with Chris from Exaequo at the prestigious Time To Watches fair held at Villa Sarasan. This episode offers listeners an in-depth look into Exaequo’s rich history, their unique watch designs, and strategic market approaches that blend tradition with modern artistry.
Chris’s Insights on Exaequo’s Origins
Chris begins by recounting the origins of Exaequo, highlighting its establishment in the 1980s in Geneva. He explains the brand's inception with a mission to create watches that harmoniously balance modern artistic flair with traditional Swiss watchmaking values.
"Exequo started in the '80s as a brand in Geneva, aiming to create watches that are both modern and artistic while preserving tradition—the essence of Swiss watchmaking."
[00:59]
The collaboration with renowned artist Salvador Dalí marked a significant milestone, leading to the creation of the iconic Ixico Dali watch. This partnership not only elevated the brand’s prestige but also resulted in the production of the Exequo Dali watches, celebrated by celebrities like Paul McCartney and Jim Carrey.
"They joined forces with Salvador Dalí, creating the Ixico Dali watch, which sold millions and was embraced by celebrities such as Paul McCartney and Jim Carrey."
[04:47]
After a period of inactivity, Exaequo was relaunched a year prior to the interview, rejuvenating their flagship product—the melting watch—and reintroducing it to a new generation of watch enthusiasts.
Reviving Iconic Designs with Modern Enhancements
Chris showcases three distinct models from Exaequo’s latest collection: the Classic Melting Watch, Revolve, and Polyhedron.
Classic Melting Watch
"We improved the Classic by adding a two-level dial and screw-on backs for easier maintenance, something the original 80s model lacked."
[09:02]
Revolve
"The Revolve combines modern style with surrealist philosophy, featuring a unique butterfly buckle and a completely modern dial."
[12:41]
Polyhedron
"The Polyhedron watch is not just a timepiece but a piece of art and jewelry, limited to 101 pieces to celebrate surrealism."
[13:05]
Pricing Strategy
Chris outlines the pricing tiers for the collection:
"Our Classic ranges from CHF 520 to 585, Revolve is priced between CHF 650 and 700, and the Polyhedron, being a limited edition, is CHF 2,250."
[13:33]
Expanding Beyond E-Commerce
Chris discusses Exaequo’s strategic move to participate in Time To Watches to enhance their market presence beyond e-commerce. With a presence in over 40 countries and growing interest from retailers, Exaequo aims to establish offline stores to offer customers the tactile experience of their unique watches.
"While our e-commerce platform is thriving, we believe establishing offline stores is crucial for providing the tactile experience that our customers cherish."
[05:59]
Building Relationships and Brand Loyalty
Exaequo values the relationships built at events like Time To Watches, emphasizing the importance of connecting with both private clients and retailers. Chris highlights the joy of interacting with passionate individuals who share a love for the brand.
"Meeting clients and building friendships with collectors, retailers, and distributors is the best part because it’s not just business; it's about sharing a passion."
[08:02]
Host and Guest Perspectives
Alon and an unnamed speaker (likely Alan) provide their perspectives on Exaequo’s offerings, discussing the brand’s uniqueness and market positioning. They compare Exaequo’s melting watch to other iconic designs like Cartier’s Crash and the Mirage, noting Exaequo’s distinct homage to Salvador Dalí’s surrealist movement.
"Exequo's products are their own entity, openly referencing Dalí’s persistence of memory, unlike the Crash or Mirage which have their unique identities."
[20:10]
Critique on Branding and Design
While appreciating the artistic value, the speakers express mixed feelings about the brand’s name and design intricacies. They acknowledge the creativity but suggest improvements in branding to enhance memorability and aesthetic appeal.
"The name 'Exequo' is a bit complicated and might benefit from a more straightforward branding approach to better resonate with consumers."
[21:29]
Product Appeal and Market Viability
The speakers agree that Exaequo targets a niche market, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciate unique and artistic timepieces. They discuss the balance between exclusivity and accessibility, noting that limited editions and unique designs can foster a dedicated customer base.
"Despite being in the mid-market segment, Exaequo's limited editions and unique designs create a specialized market that values exclusivity."
[19:02]
The episode wraps up with acknowledgments of Exaequo’s contributions to the watchmaking industry and anticipation for future discussions. Chris expresses gratitude for the opportunity, reinforcing his passion for watches and the brand’s dedication to artistic excellence.
"Thank you for the invitation. I love watches."
[14:28]
Rob Nudds concludes by expressing excitement to feature Exaequo in future episodes, highlighting the brand’s potential for continued growth and innovation.
"It's a pleasure to have brands like yours here at Villa Sarasan, and I look forward to having you back on The Real Time Show."
[14:07]
Listener Engagement
The episode encourages listeners to share their thoughts and questions about Exaequo, acknowledging that the brand’s unique approach may be a point of division among watch enthusiasts. The hosts invite feedback to facilitate a deeper understanding and discussion in future episodes.
"If anyone in the audience has got any questions or feelings about this brand, because it is obviously a divisive one, then please do get in touch and we'll pass them on to the brand."
[23:03]
Key Takeaways
This episode of The Real Time Show offers a comprehensive exploration of Exaequo’s journey, products, and market strategies, providing valuable insights for watch enthusiasts and industry professionals alike.