The Real Time Show: Episode Summary – "Time To Watches: Herbelin"
Release Date: June 19, 2025
Hosts: Rob Nudds & Alon Ben Joseph
Guest: Benjamin Arbalin, Herbelin Representative
Introduction to Herbelin
In this episode of The Real Time Show, hosts Rob Nudds and Alon Ben Joseph sit down with Benjamin Arbalin from Herbelin, a renowned French watchmaker. Filmed live at the Time To Watches Fair held at Villa Saracen in Geneva, the discussion delves into Herbelin's rich heritage, product offerings, and strategic outlook in the global watchmaking industry.
Brand Background and Heritage
Benjamin Arbalin provides an insightful overview of Herbelin's history and current standing:
"Herballin is a French watchmaker established in 1947 by Michel Arbalin. This is a family-owned company now in its third generation, with four shareholders, including myself and Michel's grandsons, Maxime and Mathieu Herballin." (00:38)
Located near the Swiss border in Charquemont, Herbelin leverages its proximity to La Chaux-de-Fonds, a pivotal region in the Jura Montaigne watchmaking hub. The brand prides itself on producing French-made watches equipped with exclusively Swiss movements—Ronda for quartz timepieces and Sellita for automatic models.
Herbelin boasts a significant global presence, with distribution in approximately 50 countries. The French market remains its strongest, moving around 40,000 watches annually across 600 retail outlets. Notably, Herbelin commands nearly 50% market share in the French ladies' watch segment within the €300 to €1,000 price range.
Unique Selling Proposition (USP): Design and Innovation
When discussing Herbelin's USP, Benjamin emphasizes the brand's commitment to design excellence and adaptability:
"We design our own watches, we have our own designer in the house, and Michel Arbalin is clearly well recognized in the watch industry for its ladies' watches." (02:38)
Herbelin adeptly navigated the quartz crisis of the 1970s by innovating specifically for the ladies' market, a strategic move that solidified its position and continues to influence its reputation today. The brand remains a leader in designing elegant and functional timepieces tailored for women, alongside a robust collection for gentlemen.
Diverse Collections and New Model Showcase
Herbelin's extensive catalog encompasses nearly 400 SKUs, categorized primarily into three segments:
- Sport Chic: Featuring the Newport and Cap Camara ranges, these watches blend sporty aesthetics with elegance, catering to both men and women, with a slight emphasis on male models.
- Timeless: A collection of classical watches that exude sophistication and enduring style.
- Ladies-Specific: Dedicated exclusively to women, these watches are designed from the ground up to suit a female wrist, avoiding the common industry practice of downsizing men's models.
During the fair, Benjamin introduces two new products, highlighting the Newport gents’ model:
"This product that we celebrate this year is an automatic chronograph equipped with a Sellita SW510, 62 hours power reserve. The case is made in stainless steel covered with 5N PVD rose gold." (05:01)
Rob and Alon provide a detailed analysis of the Newport gents’ watch, noting its blend of heritage and modernity:
"It's an interesting mixture of old and new, with heritage aspects in the case and central lugs, combined with a contemporary black ceramic bezel." (06:07)
The Newport gents’ model stands out as a flagship piece, celebrating its anniversary with a limited edition of 300 pieces. The design trend for this year emphasizes the pairing of rose gold elements with black materials, including a soft-touch leather strap and matching butterfly buckle.
Strategic Goals: Expansion and Boutique Development
When questioned about Herbelin's future objectives, Benjamin outlines the brand's focus on worldwide expansion and enhancing direct consumer engagement through boutique openings:
"Last year we've been able to open a very good market that is India... we opened our own boutique, the first one three years ago in Paris, and we are thinking of opening another one." (08:05)
Herbelin aims to initially expand within the French market, with plans to potentially open boutiques in key global cities like London and Tokyo. The strategy includes leveraging existing subsidiaries in Germany and the UK to facilitate broader international growth.
Importance of Industry Events
Rob inquires about the significance of international events for a brand like Herbelin. Benjamin underscores the crucial role such gatherings play in brand visibility and networking:
"It's a great opportunity to see many people, media, our customers, prospects, but also our other brands to see what they do, discuss with everybody, our neighbors. It's the best way to move forward, to go straight." (10:03)
Having participated in Baselworld for nearly four decades, Herbelin has adapted to changes by finding alternative platforms like Inorganta in Germany. These events are vital for fostering relationships, gaining feedback, and staying abreast of industry trends.
Challenges in International Markets and Product Portfolio Management
With a vast and diverse product portfolio, Herbelin faces the challenge of market-specific focus. Benjamin explains:
"Nobody, no retailer or distributor can take the whole catalog. It's impossible. They have to choose several families, maybe six, seven, eight maximum." (11:31)
Herbelin works closely with retailers to curate collections that best fit each market's tastes and trends, ensuring that flagship models like Newport and Cap Camara are prominently featured. This selective approach helps mitigate the complexity of managing 400 SKUs across diverse international markets.
Rob suggests a potential strategy of tailoring the brand's presentation to different regions, akin to how Omega customizes its collections for the Asian market. Benjamin acknowledges the possibility but highlights the complexities involved:
"It's a very complicated and challenging work... we need to make sure that we found the best ranges." (14:24)
Conclusion: Discovering Herbelin Watches
As the conversation winds down, Benjamin provides guidance for listeners interested in exploring Herbelin's offerings:
"The best way to discover the brand is in the boutique in Paris... but then we sell on our website worldwide. Any retailer worldwide would be the best way to see the brand." (15:29)
Herbelin's price range is accessible, with most of the collection priced between €300 and €1,000, and select models reaching up to €3,500. The brand emphasizes quality and craftsmanship, making it an attractive option for both new enthusiasts and seasoned collectors.
Rob aptly summarizes:
"If you want a new luxury watch in your collection and you can go without lunch at Watches and Wonders, you can buy one for €300. It's an entry-level price like few others, and the products are exceptionally well made. Go check them out." (16:52)
Final Remarks from Hosts and Guest
Concluding the episode, Alon and Michel provide their personal takeaways on Herbelin and its positioning within the broader watch industry. They recognize Herbelin as a prominent figure in the French market, noting its extensive distribution and accessible pricing. While acknowledging the brand's wide appeal and volume, they also touch upon the challenges of differentiating in a crowded market.
Listeners’ Invitation:
The episode wraps up with an invitation for listeners to share their thoughts on Herbelin and other watch brands via the podcast’s official channels, including email and Instagram.
Key Takeaways:
- Herbelin's Strengths: Strong heritage, specialized design for ladies' watches, extensive global distribution.
- Product Range: Diverse collections catering to various tastes, with a significant focus on sport chic and ladies' segments.
- Market Strategy: Focused expansion through boutiques and selective portfolio curation tailored to regional markets.
- Industry Presence: Active participation in international watch fairs enhances brand visibility and networking opportunities.
- Accessibility: Competitive pricing with a commitment to quality makes Herbelin an attractive option in the mid-tier watch market.
For listeners interested in exploring Herbelin’s offerings, visiting their Paris boutique or exploring their online store provides the best avenues to experience their craftsmanship firsthand.