The Review of Mess: You Can Never Escape The Labubu
Hosted by Jessica DeFino and Emily Kirkpatrick
Release Date: August 1, 2025

Introduction: Summer Slump in Beauty and Fashion

Timestamp: 00:16 - 01:24

Jessica DeFino and Emily Kirkpatrick kick off the episode by expressing their mutual sense of stagnation within the beauty and fashion industries during the summer months. Jessica shares, “I feel, like, bored of the beauty industry right now...” (00:53), highlighting a typical seasonal slowdown characterized by repetitive bikini trends and a general lack of innovation. Emily echoes this sentiment, noting, “Yeah, I've always just felt very uninspired...” (01:03).

Launching the Lowbrow Book Club

Timestamp: 01:24 - 02:31

The hosts announce the upcoming launch of their Lowbrow Book Club in September, aiming to foster deeper discussions around beauty and fashion theories. Jessica enthuses, “September is when we are launching the Lowbrow Book Club,” (01:24) while Emily outlines the structure: “We will announce the book at the beginning of every month... group discussion questions...” (01:37). This initiative seeks to provide a platform for more profound engagement beyond individual reading.

Exploring Theoretical Underpinnings in Beauty

Timestamp: 02:31 - 04:00

Jessica delves into her immersion in beauty-related theories, contemplating how these insights can inform their discussions. She mentions, “I've been reading so much theory... the book still has not materialized,” (02:42) indicating a shift from solitary study to collaborative exploration. Emily adds, “speaking it out loud or like teaching someone else about it...” (03:17), emphasizing the benefits of verbalizing complex ideas for better understanding and recall.

Aura, AI Art, and Pop Culture

Timestamp: 04:00 - 06:21

The conversation shifts to the concept of "Aura" as discussed by John Berger and Walter Benjamin, pondering its relevance in the age of AI and AI-generated art. Emily states, “Aura has been weighing heavy, heavy on my mind...” (03:53) and calls for philosophical unpacking of its applications in modern technology, especially AI art, reflecting on its significance in preserving the uniqueness of artistic expressions.

Period Fashion as Protest and Performance Art

Timestamp: 06:21 - 09:22

Emily brings attention to recent instances of period-themed fashion used as powerful forms of protest. She references Julia Fox's red-stained underwear at the Mien event and Kenyan Senator Gloria Orwoba's blood-stained pants protest against period poverty. “It's obviously such a powerful... pure form of protest,” Emily remarks (06:38), drawing parallels to the Intactivist movement’s visual protests. Jessica adds, “Aura is everything,” (04:00) reinforcing the profound impact of such statements in fashion.

Celebrity Fashion Iconoclasm: Kim Kardashian and Balenciaga

Timestamp: 09:22 - 19:20

The hosts analyze Kim Kardashian's Elizabeth Taylor drag appearance in Balenciaga’s runway show, discussing the interplay between celebrity, artifice, and branding. Emily critiques, “I do understand what Balenciaga is like gesturing at... her as a figure is so deeply dull” (10:50), while Jessica reflects on the societal obsession with figures like Kim as mirrors of cultural values: “it's a reflection of our time...” (15:58). They further explore Demna’s use of drag performer Alexis Stone to blur lines between reality and performance art, emphasizing the constructed nature of modern fame.

Media Consumption and Cancel Culture

Timestamp: 25:29 - 38:10

Jessica and Emily delve into the dynamics of media consumption, focusing on public shaming and cancel culture. They discuss John Ronson's "So You've Been Publicly Shamed" and its evolution, noting, “the Internet takes those and blows them up to a completely different degree” (35:39). Emily questions the societal fascination with punishing individuals for personal failings, pondering, “what are we really getting out of this?” (30:33). They critique the lack of nuance in online discourse, emphasizing the collective responsibility in shaping media narratives: “Why does people write about the Kardashians at the rate they do? Because people click on it.” (17:29).

Beauty Trends: Heat Damage and Food-Themed Products

Timestamp: 38:10 - 47:19

The conversation transitions to current beauty trends, focusing on the paradox of promoting heat damage repair products. Jessica highlights Sofia Richie’s transition to a bob as a response to overprocessed, damaged hair: “What's hot right now is a response to over process super damaged hair.” (39:18). They critique campaigns like Pantene’s "Country Fried Hair" and products like K18’s "Heat Bounce," which market themselves as solutions to inevitable damage rather than promoting healthier hair practices.

Additionally, the hosts discuss the surge of food-themed beauty products, expressing disdain for items like Revlon’s "Flavortown" lip balm and Panera’s Mac and cheese lip gloss. Emily sarcastically remarks, “...who wants this? Like, who is the audience for this?” (20:27), underscoring the environmental and practical concerns associated with such gimmicky products.

Mess of the Month: High Fashion and David Protein Bars

Timestamp: 57:01 - 84:38

Emily's Mess: Emily criticizes Schiaparelli's latest haute couture dress featuring an animatronic heart and a backward torso, finding it unsettling despite Daniel Roseberry's renowned design prowess. She mentions, “There's something about it that's communicating to women... I start to feel a little queasy and uneasy about it” (77:28), questioning the message of subjugation and manipulation conveyed through such designs.

Jessica's Mess: Jessica expresses her disdain for David protein bars, describing them as “disgusting” (80:38) and laments their pivot to selling frozen cod, which she finds equally unappealing. They mock the marketing strategies that equate cold, lifeless food items with health benefits, highlighting the absurdity of “eating a lump of cod” for protein.

The Labubu Phenomenon: Cuteness and Consumerism

Timestamp: 59:06 - 84:38

Jessica and Emily explore the rising trend of Labubus, comparing them to nostalgic items like Beanie Babies but with a modern twist. They discuss C.C. Nye's theory of cuteness, which defines it as “smallness, helplessness, vulnerability, and deformity” (63:34). Emily notes, “Labubus are everything” (59:16), analyzing how these plush accessories embody both innocence and a subtle sense of menace.

Jessica ties this into broader societal themes, suggesting that the popularity of Labubus reflects a cultural longing for comfort amidst political and social turmoil. They debate the infantilization of consumers and the commodification of maternal instincts, pondering how cuteness serves as both a coping mechanism and a powerful marketing tool.

Conclusion: Navigating Pop Culture’s Complexities

Timestamp: 84:38 - End

As the episode wraps up, Jessica and Emily reflect on the intricate relationship between consumer trends, media influence, and societal values. They emphasize the importance of critical engagement with pop culture phenomena, urging listeners to question the underlying messages and motivations behind prevalent trends. The hosts maintain a tone of skepticism and introspection, advocating for more meaningful and thoughtful participation in the beauty and fashion landscapes.

Notable Quotes:

• Jessica DeFino: “I feel, like, bored of the beauty industry right now...” (00:53)
• Emily Kirkpatrick: “Aura has been weighing heavy, heavy on my mind...” (03:53)
• Jessica DeFino: “Why does people write about the Kardashians at the rate they do? Because people click on it.” (17:29)
• Emily Kirkpatrick: “Man, I've been saying this since I worked at my first job at People magazine...” (16:13)
• Jessica DeFino: “If you care about the environment, you should shutter your brand.” (25:37)
• Emily Kirkpatrick: “Cuteness thus seems to be part of the solution to the problem of power... disposing of them totally.” (73:09)

Takeaways:

• Critical Engagement: The hosts advocate for a deeper, more analytical approach to consuming beauty and fashion content, moving beyond surface-level trends.

• Cultural Reflection: Trends in beauty and fashion often mirror broader societal issues, such as political disillusionment, environmental concerns, and shifts in media consumption.

• Consumer Responsibility: Jessica and Emily highlight the impact of individual choices in shaping media narratives and perpetuating certain trends, encouraging listeners to be mindful of their consumption habits.

• The Power of Cuteness: The discussion on Labubus underscores the complex interplay between vulnerability and consumer desire, revealing how aesthetic elements can wield significant influence over consumer behavior.

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