The Run-Through with Vogue: Francesco Risso on What’s Next For Marni

Release Date: February 28, 2025

In this captivating episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps engages in an in-depth conversation with Francesco Risso, the creative director of Marni. Risso delves into his creative vision, the evolution of Marni under his leadership, and his perspectives on the current fashion landscape. This summary encapsulates the key discussions, insights, and conclusions from their dialogue.

1. Introduction to the Episode

Nicole Phelps sets the stage by expressing her enthusiasm for recent Milan Fashion Week events. She highlights notable designers and anticipates Francesco Risso’s contributions to the conversation.

Nicole Phelps (01:18):

"I love my conversation with Marni's creative director Francesco Risso so much that we had to rerun it. I think of him as fashion's great artist philosopher."

2. Emotional Resonance in Fashion Shows

Francesco Risso discusses the emotional moments that signal a successful fashion show, emphasizing the deep connection between the designer and the audience.

Francesco Risso (03:15):

"I didn't know that anything was working until I had done my bowing and I came back to the backstage, and suddenly I look around at people and I see everyone's crying."

3. Spring 2025 Collection: Genesis and Vision

Risso contrasts his Spring 2025 collection with the previous Fall 2024 lineup, highlighting a shift towards couture and the underlying philosophy of beauty as resistance.

Nicole Phelps (04:15):

"It was so different than what you did for fall 2024... this was almost like couture. There were couture shapes."

Francesco Risso (04:49):

"Beauty is an act of resistance to me, especially right now. This collection started from cotton, and that is like the most incredible tool of resistance."

4. Community and Collaboration at Marni

Risso elaborates on the importance of treating his team as family, fostering a symbiotic and collaborative environment that fuels creativity.

Nicole Phelps (07:07):

"You've been at Marni for nine years and often refer to the team as your family. Why is community and collaboration such an important part of your work?"

Francesco Risso (07:24):

"The most important thing about what I do is about a symbiotic way of moving... people inform what we do, the designs, their lives informs our designs."

5. Influence of Family on Design

Risso shares his unconventional upbringing, living on a boat and later in a large extended family, and how these experiences shaped his creative expression.

Nicole Phelps (09:41):

"You grew up on a boat for five years and lived with a large extended family. How does your family inform your design?"

Francesco Risso (09:57):

"I started making as a way to express myself, stealing from my family's wardrobes and creating something new, which became my drug."

6. Collaborators and Ambassadors: Interpreters

The conversation shifts to Risso’s collaborations with artists like Dev Hynes and models such as Paloma Elecessor, whom he refers to as “interpreters” of Marni’s vision.

Nicole Phelps (14:42):

"You work with Dev Hynes and Paloma Elecessor as interpreters. What attracts you to these people?"

Francesco Risso (15:06):

"Working with Dev from the start of a collection till the moment our interpreters are walking in the show... he adds so much dimension to what we make."

7. Lessons from Prada

Risso reflects on his tenure at Prada, highlighting the bravery and balance between creativity and practicality he learned under Miuccia Prada’s leadership.

Nicole Phelps (16:48):

"You worked for Prada for many years. What did you learn from Miuccia Prada as a designer?"

Francesco Risso (16:59):

"I learned to be brave... the balance between ferocious creativity and seeing clothes in the streets."

8. Transition to Marni and Mission

Discussing his move to Marni, Risso speaks about respecting Consuelo Castiglioni’s legacy while forging his own path, aiming to create a chosen family within the brand.

Nicole Phelps (18:50):

"As you arrived at Marni, what did you see as your mission?"

Francesco Risso (19:17):

"It was about moving from a family business into a chosen family expression, seeding new plants and allowing flowers to bloom through conversation."

9. Reflections on the Fashion Industry

Risso critiques the current state of fashion, expressing concerns over stagnancy and the market-driven focus that prioritizes outcomes over the creative process.

Nicole Phelps (25:22):

"Do you look outside at what's happening in fashion and what your contemporaries are doing?"

Francesco Risso (25:56):

"There's a huge stagnancy... people are more focused on the outcome rather than the making and patience required."

10. Engagement with Educational Institutions

Risso discusses his involvement with universities, aiming to inspire and guide young creatives by reconnecting with the unfiltered passion found in educational settings.

Nicole Phelps (30:24):

"Why are you working so much with universities and schools right now?"

Francesco Risso (30:37):

"I wanted to understand how young students are living it now... I found a spontaneous energy that is very inspiring."

11. Future Endeavors and Creative Inspirations

Looking ahead, Risso hints at his next collection inspired by wolves, symbolizing ancient wisdom and freedom, aligning with his artistic and philosophical inclinations.

Nicole Phelps (33:01):

"What are you thinking about at the moment for your next show?"

Francesco Risso (33:18):

"I'm thinking about wolves... the most ancient and wise animals, yet they resemble freedom."

12. Personal Touch: Instagram Persona

Risso explains the origin of his Instagram handle, “a_slice_of_bam,” reflecting a blend of sweetness and underlying complexity that mirrors his personality and creative ethos.

Nicole Phelps (33:31):

"Your Instagram account is called A Slice of Bam. Why?"

Francesco Risso (33:31):

"It was born at a dinner with friends and journalists... it combines a sweet and dreamy fable with harsher underlying meanings."

Conclusion

The episode concludes with Risso expressing gratitude for the conversation, leaving listeners with a profound understanding of his artistic philosophy and the future direction of Marni under his leadership.

Francesco Risso (35:35):

"Wolves represent freedom and ancient wisdom, which aligns with my character."

Nicole Phelps (35:35):

"That's a beautiful note to end on. Thank you, Francesco."

Key Takeaways:

• Emotional Connection: Successful fashion transcends aesthetics, forging deep emotional bonds with the audience.

• Beauty as Resistance: Risso views beauty not merely as an aesthetic pursuit but as a form of resistance against societal changes.

• Community-Centric Approach: Marni thrives on collaboration, treating the team as a family to foster creativity and innovation.

• Personal History Influences Design: Risso’s unique upbringing and family dynamics significantly shape his creative expression.

• Balancing Creativity and Practicality: Lessons from Prada underline the importance of bravery and balancing artistic vision with real-world application.

• Critique of Modern Fashion Industry: A call for a renewed focus on the creative process and craftsmanship rather than solely on market-driven outcomes.

• Educational Engagement: Investing in educational institutions to inspire and mentor the next generation of creatives.

• Future Inspirations: Upcoming collections will draw inspiration from symbols like wolves, embodying wisdom and freedom.

Francesco Risso’s insightful dialogue offers a window into the intricate balance between art, philosophy, and commerce in the fashion industry, providing listeners with a nuanced understanding of Marni’s evolving narrative under his creative direction.