Podcast Summary: The Run-Through with Vogue

Episode: GQ’s Will Welch on the Spring 2026 Menswear Shows
Release Date: June 17, 2025
Host: Nicole Phelps
Guest: Will Welch, GQ's Global Editorial Director

1. Introduction

In this episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps engages in an insightful conversation with Will Welch, GQ’s Global Editorial Director. The discussion centers around the upcoming Spring 2026 menswear shows in Milan and Paris, exploring anticipated trends, standout designers, and the evolving landscape of men's fashion.

2. Anticipated Designers and Shows

Jonathan Anderson at Dior
One of the season's most significant moments is Jonathan Anderson's debut as the men's and women's designer at Dior. Will Welch expresses excitement over this strategic move by LVMH, highlighting the unified creative vision Anderson brings to both lines.

“Now, for the first time since Christian Dior himself, there is one designer over it all. So I think it's interesting to think about that strategic shift for LVMH.”
— Will Welch [02:29]

Welch draws parallels between Anderson and Demna at Gucci, emphasizing the creative pressure and anticipation surrounding their new directions.

Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton
Pharrell’s shows are described as grand productions filled with celebrities and athletes, pushing the boundaries of fashion presentations.

“The vibe is big. It's like fashion under the big top... it's just like a continuation of when Virgil became the menswear designer at Louis Vuitton.”
— Will Welch [06:09]

Julian Klaus at Dries Van Noten
Welch discusses the challenges Julian faces in stepping into Dries Van Noten’s legacy, focusing on maintaining the brand's vision while infusing his own creativity.

“You never know the extent to which they were really successful at serving the vision of the existing designer... or how different it is.”
— Will Welch [08:17]

Michael Ryder at Celine
Michael Ryder’s transition from Ralph Lauren to Celine is noted, with Welch expressing curiosity about Ryder’s vision for the brand.

“We've gotten together a few times for coffee and just to talk. And I've really enjoyed the conversations, but I have no idea what that is gonna come out on the Runway.”
— Will Welch [10:18]

Anthony Vaccarello and Alessandro at Valentino
Vaccarello’s offbeat shows and Alessandro’s take on Valentino are highlighted. Welch praises Alessandro’s work despite initial controversies over similarities with his previous role at Gucci.

“A lot of red carpet. So it seems like it's finding its footing.”
— Will Welch [14:15]

3. Emerging Menswear Trends

Return to Formality
Post-pandemic, there is a noticeable shift towards men dressing up again, embracing ties and tailored suits.

“Post pandemic... there's this idea of really getting dressed in a sense of occasion and a sense of formality feels exciting.”
— Will Welch [27:15]

Shorter Shorts and Expressive Tailoring
The trend of shorter men's shorts is gaining traction, alongside an overall uptick in expressive and elegant tailoring for both men and women.

“Men's tailoring for women has been incredible and inspiring.”
— Nicole Phelps [28:28]

4. Highlight on Rick Owens

Rick Owens is lauded for his ability to merge a severe, avant-garde vision with accessible fashion pieces, especially in menswear.

“Rick is one of one has pulled off the most incredible trick... able to do things that aren't ultimately rooted in utility.”
— Will Welch [17:43]

Will Welch discusses Rick Owens' upcoming retrospective at the Palais Galliera, emphasizing his impact on menswear through wearable art.

“What he makes is art, is wearable art, even again, whether it's sculptural or pair of shorts.”
— Will Welch [20:50]

5. Superfine Exhibition at the Costume Institute

The Superfine exhibition celebrates Black designers and tailors, showcasing both established figures like Dapper Dan and rising stars. Welch praises the exhibition for its narrative structure and menswear focus, marking it as a significant moment for GQ.

“It was fashion, but it was also history and American history... a very inspiring moment for the exhibition to have a menswear theme.”
— Will Welch [28:38]

6. Personal Anecdotes and Collaborations

Collaboration with Andre 3000
Will Welch shares a personal story about collaborating with Andre 3000, illustrating the blend of creative freedom and logistical challenges in high-profile fashion events.

“The piano was incredibly heavy... he just looked at me and said, I think adrenaline's gonna carry me through.”
— Will Welch [32:57]

Meeting Icons
Welch recounts meeting his musical heroes, Andre 3000 and Big Boi, highlighting the surreal experience of interacting with global icons.

“They signed it without looking at me and just handed it to me... so I did kind of meet them.”
— Will Welch [34:09]

7. Fashion Week Insights and Events

Milan vs. Paris
The conversation touches on the shift of menswear's epicenter from Milan to Paris, with an appreciation for both cities' unique contributions to the fashion industry.

“When I started going to the fashion shows... the energy moved to Paris.”
— Will Welch [21:06]

Exclusive GQ Parties
Welch highlights the importance of community-building within GQ, fostering an environment where industry professionals can connect and celebrate fashion together.

“We've just built a community of people who feel like they are a part of GQ.”
— Will Welch [36:01]

8. Future Predictions and Closing Thoughts

Will Welch expresses hope for a creative jolt to invigorate the fashion industry, emphasizing the need for visionary designers to spearhead this change.

“What I'm really hoping for is... a jolt of creativity from somebody, somebody with a vision.”
— Will Welch [37:31]

He remains optimistic about the resilience of fashion, trusting that innovative designers will overcome current slumps and propel the industry forward.

Conclusion

The episode provides a comprehensive overview of the upcoming Spring 2026 menswear season, shedding light on key designers, emerging trends, and the dynamic interplay between tradition and innovation in fashion. Will Welch's insights offer a nuanced perspective on the challenges and opportunities facing menswear, underscoring the continuous evolution of style and expression.

Notable Quotes:

• “Now, for the first time since Christian Dior himself, there is one designer over it all.”
  — Will Welch [02:29]

• “The vibe is big. It's like fashion under the big top...”
  — Will Welch [06:09]

• “Post pandemic... there's this idea of really getting dressed in a sense of occasion and a sense of formality feels exciting.”
  — Will Welch [27:15]

• “What I'm really hoping for is... a jolt of creativity from somebody, somebody with a vision.”
  — Will Welch [37:31]