Podcast Summary: "Nicolas Di Felice on Courrèges’s Legacy and Future"
Podcast: The Run-Through with Vogue
Host: Nicole Phelps
Guest: Nicolas Di Felice, Artistic Director of Courrèges
Release Date: November 12, 2024

Introduction

In this engaging episode of The Run-Through with Vogue, host Nicole Phelps sits down with Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director of Courrèges. Di Felice discusses his transformative journey at Courrèges, the brand’s rich heritage, and his vision for its future. The conversation delves deep into fashion history, design philosophy, and the intricate balance between honoring legacy and driving innovation.

Early Career and Inspiration

Discovering Fashion Through Media

Nicolas Di Felice opens up about his unconventional entry into the fashion world, growing up in a small Belgian town with limited access to fashion resources.

• Nicolas Di Felice [03:53]: “I think that I've been introduced to fashion through clothing more than fashion itself.”

Influenced by MTV and music videos, Di Felice found inspiration in the way clothing serves as a medium for self-expression.

• Guest [04:05]: “There were like this video clips from Guns N Roses’ November Rain. Oh yeah, so beautiful. Like a little short movie.”

Education and La Cambre

A Multifaceted Approach to Fashion Education

Di Felice highlights the unique aspects of La Cambre, the prestigious design school he attended, emphasizing its balanced curriculum and affordability.

• Nicolas Di Felice [05:17]: “We have only eight hours of fashion a week. The rest of the week is just like general art lessons.”

This multidisciplinary approach fosters creativity and encourages students to draw inspiration from various art forms, thereby broadening their creative horizons.

• Guest [05:17]: “They force you to really find your end and find your way of drawing instead of just like copying Parisian style drawing.”

He also praises the school’s affordability, noting its low tuition fees compared to other renowned design institutions.

• Nicolas Di Felice [07:16]: “It's not an expensive school. There is a lot of people that want to get in. But once you're in about like 20 person in the first year, it's less than $500 really a year.”

Time at Balenciaga

Learning Under a Maestro

Upon graduating, Di Felice joined Balenciaga during Nicolas Ghesquière’s tenure, a period marked by creativity and precision.

• Nicolas Di Felice [08:03]: “Nicolas was there a lot. We all learned so much and it was exciting.”

He reflects on the meticulous nature of Balenciaga’s design process, where perfection was paramount and minimal post-production editing was the norm.

• Guest [08:03]: “We learned to be so precise. The thing with Nicolas is that he's always searching and he learned so many things to all of us.”

This experience ingrained in him a deep appreciation for craftsmanship and attention to detail.

Taking Over Courrèges

Embracing a Heritage Brand

Di Felice discusses his decision to lead Courrèges, a brand with a storied past rooted in 1960s space-age chic and retrofuturism.

• Nicolas Di Felice [11:08]: “I had no doubts. I was like, okay, yeah, this. I want to do it.”

He emphasizes the importance of having a clear vision aligned with the brand’s legacy to navigate the responsibilities of stewarding an iconic label.

• Guest [11:27]: “I had a clear idea with this and I think that's thanks to the clarity of the house itself.”

Design Philosophy and Legacy

Balancing Heritage with Modernity

Di Felice delves into Courrèges’s legacy of promoting freedom and modernity, aligning it with contemporary societal shifts.

• Nicolas Di Felice [12:54]: “This quest of freedom is still really, I mean, now I think it is.”

He draws parallels between the 1960s societal changes and the recent pandemic, suggesting that themes of freedom and transformation remain relevant.

• Guest [13:34]: “There's a social part about his work, corresponding to a certain period... quest of freedom is still really.”

Community and Clientele

Building a Diverse and Inclusive Brand

Under Di Felice’s leadership, Courrèges has cultivated a broad and diverse customer base, appealing to multiple generations and genders.

• Nicolas Di Felice [23:30]: “We don't really talk to only like one generation. Or we can talk to someone really young and someone a bit less young. And no matter the gender.”

He attributes this success to the brand’s ability to offer versatile designs that resonate with a wide audience, maintaining a balance between heritage aesthetics and contemporary trends.

• Guest [23:30]: “Courage talks to a lot of people. And this is really something really interesting.”

Technical Expertise and Collaborations

Mastery of Craft and Influential Partnerships

Di Felice’s dedication to technical precision and craftsmanship is a recurring theme. His collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier is a testament to his ability to honor and reinterpret established fashion legacies.

• Nicolas Di Felice [26:56]: “I tried to just look at it and then do it my way.”

This approach ensures that while Courrèges remains true to its roots, it also evolves to reflect contemporary design sensibilities.

• Guest [28:06]: “My way, as I love technique... pay homage is like to try to.”

Red Carpet and Ambition

Dressing Celebrities and Driving Brand Growth

Di Felice shares memorable experiences of dressing high-profile celebrities, highlighting the joy and satisfaction derived from seeing different personalities in his creations.

• Nicolas Di Felice [28:49]: “I love to see people that are getting really different when I see them in my clothes.”

He also speaks candidly about his ambition, focusing on sustainable and healthy growth for Courrèges.

• Guest [29:59]: “I am ambitious for the house. I always say that... ambitious with wisdom.”

Conclusion

The episode concludes with a heartfelt exchange between Nicole Phelps and Nicolas Di Felice, encapsulating his passion for fashion, commitment to craftsmanship, and vision for Courrèges’s future. Di Felice’s insights offer a compelling glimpse into the intricate balance of preserving a brand’s legacy while steering it toward innovation and relevance in today’s dynamic fashion landscape.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Early Inspiration:

  • [03:53] "I think that I've been introduced to fashion through clothing more than fashion itself."

• Education at La Cambre:

  • [05:17] “We have only eight hours of fashion a week. The rest of the week is just like general art lessons.”

• Balenciaga Experience:

  • [08:03] “Nicolas was there a lot. We all learned so much and it was exciting.”

• Taking Over Courrèges:

  • [11:08] “I had no doubts. I was like, okay, yeah, this. I want to do it.”

• Design Philosophy:

  • [12:54] “This quest of freedom is still really, I mean, now I think it is.”

• Community Building:

  • [23:30] “We don't really talk to only like one generation. Or we can talk to someone really young and someone a bit less young. And no matter the gender.”

• Collaborations:

  • [26:56] “I tried to just look at it and then do it my way.”

• Ambition:

  • [29:59] “I am ambitious for the house. I always say that... ambitious with wisdom.”

This comprehensive summary encapsulates the richness of the conversation between Nicole Phelps and Nicolas Di Felice, offering listeners valuable insights into Courrèges’s past, present, and future under Di Felice’s artistic direction.