Podcast Summary: The Run-Through with Vogue

Episode: The Most Impactful Shows of the Century So Far According to Vogue Editors
Date: November 25, 2025
Hosts: Nicole Phelps, Laird Borrelli-Persson, Virginia Smith, Mark Guiducci

Main Theme

This episode revisits Vogue Runway's project chronicling the most impactful runway shows of the past 25 years, as chosen by both Vogue editors and readers. Nicole Phelps is joined by Laird Borrelli-Persson, Virginia Smith, and Mark Guiducci to discuss which collections defined eras, broke ground, or captured a fashion zeitgeist—from supermodel revivals to digital-age spectacles. The conversation delves into why certain shows endure, generational shifts in taste, and how both spectacle and subtlety have shaped the industry's trajectory.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Reader’s Choice Winners: Fashion for the Instagram Era (03:18 – 16:00)

• Versace Spring 2018: Topped reader voting for its “return of the supermodel,” paying tribute to Gianni Versace. Donatella Versace brought together iconic models from the 90s with the next generation.
  • “Not only was it the rebirth of the supermodel, but it was the beginning of this idea of re-editions and fashion being very open to revisiting the past.” – Nicole (03:50)
• Instagram & Nostalgia’s Influence: The editors highlight how the show’s resonance was amplified by nostalgia, algorithm-driven feeds, and the immense reach of Instagram’s archival sharing.
• Tom Ford’s 2010 Debut for His Label: In contrast to the Instagram era, Ford banned photography, making it a private experience and heightening mystique.
• Alexander McQueen Spring 2020 (Sarah Burton): Celebrated for strong tailoring, inclusive casting, and marking generational shifts in model representation.
  • “It was a big deal to see a curved girl walk McQueen at the time.” – Mark (07:31)
• Loewe Spring 2023: Jonathan Anderson’s playful experiments with internet “meme” culture in real life, such as the pixelated dress.
  • “That look wasn’t actually about being in the room—it was about seeing it on Instagram.” – Mark (08:41)
• Saint Laurent Fall 2023: Anthony Vaccarello’s exaggerated shoulders; discussed as a statement on female power and space.
  • “Talk about women taking up space. Like, Anthony gave them the clothes to do that.” – Virginia (10:45)
• Thom Browne Couture Fall 2023: The spectacle of inviting the audience on stage, showcasing U.S. fashion’s world-class status.
  • “You went backstage through the bowels of the Opera Garnier, and you were sat on stage. When the show started, the curtain came up, and there were thousands of cardboard cut-out men. All of a sudden, you felt like you were part of the spectacle.” – Mark (12:20)
• Bottega Veneta Spring 2023 (Matthieu Blazy): A master class in trompe l’oeil (fake flannel in luxurious leather), questioning reality in an age of AI, digital fakes, and nostalgia.
  • “It just brought back to mind Magritte’s ‘This is not a pipe.’ It was what it was, and it’s not what it is. I find it fascinating.” – Laird (14:35)

2. Editors’ Meta-Analysis of the List: Recency Bias & Instagram’s Role (16:09 – 18:49)

• Mark notes recency bias: many selected shows are from the last decade, paralleling the rise of Instagram and increased competition for visual spectacle.
  • “Instagram has habituated our eyes to seeing runway images… designers know they need to create something that’s going to stand out.” – Mark (16:09)
• Virginia is impressed by the diversity, with introspective, “non-showman” designers like Dries Van Noten gaining recognition.
• Laird notes the shift toward fashion fandom, comparing attachment to designers/brands with sports team loyalty.
  • “There’s a sort of cult... there are a million people telling you the details of specific nitty gritty about a collection.” – Laird (18:08)

3. Editors’ Favorites: Shows That Shaped the Century (21:08 – 39:31)

a. Balenciaga Fall 2007 (Nicolas Ghesquière) (21:47)

• Lauded as a “tour de force” for its blend of multicultural references, collegiate jackets, prints, and re-contextualizing wardrobe staples.
  • “It sort of changed the way you looked at your own wardrobe.” – Virginia (21:51)
• Mark compares visiting the Balenciaga store to “going to church.” (23:39)

b. Prada Spring 2008 (The Fairies Collection) (24:20)

• Celebrated for unpredictability, art-nouveau fairy prints, and cult status among collectors.
  • “It was like Aussie Clarke meets FernGully.” – Mark (24:37)

c. Rick Owens Spring 2014

• Notable for bringing American dancers to the Paris runway. Owens is hailed for building a global, inclusive fashion cult.
  • “He’s just the ultimately cool designer.” – Virginia (26:38)
  • Mark highlights Rick’s role in broadening definitions of “inclusivity” in fashion. (27:51)

d. Céline Spring 2014 (Phoebe Philo) (28:57)

• Chosen for its bold color and print—a departure for Philo. Reverberated with generations of women seeking functional, sophisticated style.
  • “It showed women who don’t necessarily wear color and print how to wear color and print.” – Virginia (30:09)
  • Laird lauds Philo’s instant impact as “a woman designing for women.” (30:29)

e. Gucci Fall 2015 (Alessandro Michele’s Debut) (32:23)

• Michele’s vision upended Gucci overnight, setting an industry-wide vintage and eclectic trend.
  • “All of his ideas for Gucci were fully formed at that debut show… everything was there.” – Virginia (33:13)
  • Discussion on how Michele’s Roman roots and collector mindset fueled the vintage aesthetic. (35:30)

f. Balenciaga Fall 2016 (Demna’s Debut) (36:40)

• Noted for transforming postures, silhouettes, and subverting luxury with everyday objects and streetwear.
  • “It’s rare that posture changes… how you carry yourself to be able to influence that, I think is a rare thing indeed.” – Laird (36:45)
  • Mark discusses how Demna’s work “upgrades workwear to couture” and courts controversy by challenging tradition. (37:55)

4. What Makes A Show Impactful? (39:31–43:40)

• Editors observe their personal choices differ from readers’, gravitating toward moments of “real change” or singular impact.

  • “Are we measuring our favorites, or are we measuring impact or, you know, the best?” – Nicole (41:09)

• Laird proposes that the truly memorable shows reflect daring: “When you dare, it matters... What we remember is people that took a chance, that put themselves on the line.” (41:24)

• The conversation closes with a reflection on fashion’s collective magic and the shows that “got away”—and why the anticipation for what’s next pulls them back season after season.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Versace Spring 2018:
  “It was the rebirth of the supermodel and the beginning of revisiting the past.” – Nicole (03:50)
• On Loewe Spring 2023:
  “He was making a meme. He was creating Internet content in real life, which is so brilliant.” – Mark (08:41)
• On Thom Browne Couture 2023:
  “You went backstage… and you were sat on stage. Then the curtain came up, and there were thousands of little cardboard cutout men… you felt like you were part of the spectacle.” – Mark (12:20)
• On Social Media’s Effect:
  “Instagram has habituated our eyes to seeing runway images, and the designers know that they need to create something that’s gonna stand out.” – Mark (16:09)
• On Daring in Fashion:
  “When you dare, it matters. What we remember is people that took a chance.” – Laird (41:24)

Timestamps for Essential Segments

• Reader’s Choice – Versace, Ford, McQueen, Loewe: 03:18 – 10:24
• Saint Laurent and Broad Shoulders: 10:24 – 11:59
• Thom Browne at the Opera Garnier: 12:00 – 14:09
• Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta & Trompe L’oeil: 14:11 – 15:57
• Discussion: Recency Bias and Social Media: 16:09 – 18:49
• Editors’ Picks Start with Balenciaga 2007: 21:47
• Prada 2008 (Fairies Collection): 24:20
• Rick Owens Spring 2014: 26:15
• Céline Spring 2014: 28:57
• Gucci Fall 2015 (Alessandro Michele’s Debut): 32:23
• Balenciaga Fall 2016 (Demna’s Debut): 36:40
• Reflecting on Impact vs. Favorites: 39:31 – 42:51
• The Shows That Got Away: 42:51 – 43:40

Final Thoughts

This lively episode contextualizes two and a half decades of runway history with the candor and expertise of Vogue’s senior editors. It delivers both a panoramic view of shifting aesthetics—from 90s nostalgia and meme-friendly visuals to radical inclusivity and the transformation of classic houses—and an intimate, often humorous look at how fashion professionals remember and assess the moments that truly moved the industry forward.

A recommended listen for anyone eager to understand not just which shows matter, but why they left lasting impressions on the world of fashion.