The Spy Who Dressed the Queen | Reckoning Day | 3

Summary

The Spy Who Dressed the Queen | Reckoning Day | Episode 3 Summary

The Spy Who, hosted by Indira Varma and Raza Jaffrey, delves deep into the clandestine world of espionage, uncovering the untold stories of spies who operated in the shadows during some of history’s most tumultuous times. In the third episode of the Reckoning Day series, titled "The Spy Who Dressed the Queen," listeners are taken on a riveting journey through the intricate web of World War II espionage, focusing on the life of Hardy Amies—a renowned fashion designer turned spymaster—and his relentless pursuit of the elusive Nazi collaborator, Prosper de Zita.

I. Introduction to Hardy Amies and T Section

The episode opens in January 1944 at the House in the Woods, Beaulieu, Hampshire, where Hardy Amies has returned after nearly three years of training SOE (Special Operations Executive) agents for covert missions in Nazi-occupied Europe. In a convivial setting, Amies and his colleagues raise a toast to the hope of an impending end to the brutal war. However, underlying tensions surface when George, the induction officer, inquires about the operations at Baker Street:

George (00:55): "So, Hardy, tell me, how are things over at Baker Street?"

Amies grimaces, revealing the heavy toll his leadership has taken, with several agents lost to prison or death. Despite the challenges, recent intelligence brings a glimmer of hope—the assassination of Prosper de Zita, a notorious Nazi collaborator.

II. Operation Rat Week: A Covert Campaign

Amidst the celebration, George presses further about Operation Rat Week, a clandestine campaign aimed at eliminating Nazi informants and collaborators. Although officially unapproved by the Belgian government in exile, rumors suggest that the operation has been underway in Belgium despite formal objections.

Amies (02:35): "Your source is mistaken. T Section didn't partake."

The episode highlights the ethical and operational dilemmas faced by the SOE, navigating between official mandates and the pressing needs on the ground.

III. The Threat of Prosper de Zita

The plot thickens when a T Section deputy urgently informs Amies that Prosper de Zita, presumed dead, has been spotted in Brussels, reigniting fears of his continued collaboration with the Nazis. This revelation implies that de Zita remains a significant threat to both SOE operations and the broader Allied efforts.

Deputy (03:30): "De Zita. He's been seen in Brussels."

Amies grapples with the implications, understanding that de Zita's survival endangers countless Allied agents and the success of upcoming operations.

IV. Planning Operation Overlord and Securing Antwerp

As the Allies prepare for Operation Overlord—the monumental plan to invade and liberate Nazi-occupied France—the necessity of securing Antwerp becomes paramount. The episode details strategic discussions among SOE leaders, emphasizing Antwerp’s pivotal role as a deep-water port vital for supplying Allied forces advancing towards Germany.

General (07:15): "The fact is we cannot advance on Germany without first taking Belgium."

Amies is tasked with coordinating resistance efforts to weaken German defenses and protect the port from sabotage or destruction, ensuring a seamless supply line for the Allies.

V. The Collaboration and Tensions Within the Resistance

Amies selects key operatives, including Philippe de Liedekerke (codename Scipio) and the experienced Andre Wendolin, to scout Antwerp's defenses. Their mission involves detailed reconnaissance and identifying German vulnerabilities to safeguard the port against anticipated attacks.

Amidst these preparations, the narrative delves into the internal tensions within the resistance movement, particularly the presence of potential moles and the ever-present threat of German counterintelligence operations led by de Zita.

VI. Prosper de Zita’s Calculated Betrayal and Downfall

The episode meticulously traces de Zita’s manipulative maneuvers post-war. Assuming a new identity as Wilhelm Trupert, de Zita attempts to evade capture by blending into civilian life in Germany. His facade crumbles when Belgian State Security agents finally apprehend him, leading to his trial and eventual execution for war crimes.

De Zita (18:45): "I don't know what this is about, but I do know you have the wrong man."

De Zita’s relentless evasion and eventual downfall underscore the perilous nature of espionage and the high stakes involved in intelligence operations during wartime.

VII. Post-War Reflections and Hardy Amies’s Legacy

Transitioning to post-war London in 1946, the story shifts to Hardy Amies’s life as a celebrated fashion designer. Despite his public success, Amies is haunted by the losses and moral quandaries of his wartime activities.

In a poignant interaction with a bereaved mother, Amies confronts his own sense of culpability and the enduring impact of his covert operations:

Mother: "What difference did you make? All that cloak and dagger nonsense."

This encounter illuminates the personal toll of espionage and the often-overlooked emotional burdens borne by those who served in intelligence roles.

VIII. The Intersection of Espionage and High Society

The episode culminates with Hardy Amies’s enduring legacy in the fashion world, notably his contributions to Queen Elizabeth II’s wardrobe. While publicly celebrated as a fashion icon, Amies’s significant yet unacknowledged role in liberating Belgium and disrupting Nazi operations remains a guarded secret. His memoir, published in 1984, omits any mention of his intelligence work, symbolizing the broader theme of concealed sacrifices made during the war.

IX. Notable Quotes

• Amies (00:55): "Since he assumed leadership of T Section, the SOE department that runs operations in Belgium, he has lost several agents to prison camps or the morgue."

• Deputy (03:30): "De Zita. He's been seen in Brussels."

• Mother (28:50): "What difference did you make? All that cloak and dagger nonsense."

• De Zita (18:45): "I don't know what this is about, but I do know you have the wrong man."

X. Conclusion

The Spy Who Dressed the Queen masterfully interweaves the glamour of high fashion with the grim realities of wartime espionage. Through the lens of Hardy Amies’s dual life, the episode explores themes of loyalty, sacrifice, and the hidden costs of war. As Amies transitions from the battlefield of espionage to the prominent avenues of fashion, his story serves as a testament to the complex and often concealed contributions of spies who shaped the course of history from the shadows.

Listeners are left reflecting on the intricate balance between public personas and the clandestine efforts that underpin significant historical events. The episode sets the stage for future explorations into the intertwined realms of intelligence and high society, promising deeper insights into the enigmatic figures who navigate these dual worlds.

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For those intrigued by this compelling narrative, The Spy Who offers an engaging blend of historical research and dramatic storytelling, bringing to light the hidden chapters of espionage that have long remained in obscurity.

Transcript

[Indra Varma]

Wondery plus subscribers can binge full seasons of the Spy who early and ad free on Apple podcasts or The Wondery app. January 1944 the House in the Woods Beaulieu, Hampshire Hardy Amy's the fashion designer turned spymaster has returned to the English countryside to see in the new year. It's been nearly three years since Amy's first came here to train SOE agents for covert operations in Nazi occupied Europe. Now, in the office's mess building, he and several other section chiefs are raising a glass to the coming year and hoping that 1944 will bring an end to this long and brutal war. George, the stooped man who inducted Amies into the soe, leans in. So, Hardy, tell me, how are things over at Baker Street? Amies grimaces. Since he assumed leadership of T Section, the SOE department that runs operations in Belgium, he has lost several agents to prison camps or the morgue. But he hopes that's now in the past. T Section recently received reports confirming the assassination of Prosper de Zita, the notorious Nazi collaborator who has lured dozens of downed Allied airmen into enemy hands. We've had our share of challenges, but recently, I'm pleased to say, things have started to go our way. Amy takes a sip of his gin, hoping that vague reply will be sufficient. George, however, keeps staring at Amy's Operation Ratweek. You mean. Amy's let slip a look of surprise. Operation Rat Week's campaign of assassination in Nazi occupied Europe is supposed to be top secret. The operation sought to kill leading informants and collaborators and strike fear into those who work with the Nazis. Officially, T Section didn't take part because Belgium's government in exile wouldn't sanction the assassinations. But George. George seems to be aware that Rat Week went ahead there anyway. I'm surprised that news has reached the Hampshire countryside. Oh, rumors and speculation only. I heard Rat Week had been a tremendous success in France. I'm glad to learn that things have gone similarly smoothly in Belgium. George raises his eyebrows, awaiting confirmation. Amy's bristle slightly. Your source is mistaken. T Section didn't partake. Still, Italy has certainly given us something to build upon. Amies raises his glass and gives George a broad smile. To peace, indeed. As the pair gently knock their glasses together, George looks lost in his thoughts. Amies uses the moment to excuse himself and works his way across the crowded room in search of an easier conversation. He soon spots one of his T Section deputies squeezing toward him through the partygoers, wearing a look of grave urgency. Sir? A quiet word. You look like you've spent the evening with the Ghost of Christmas Past. What's the matter? The man leans in close and murmurs into Amy's ear. De Zita. He's been seen in Brussels. Amy's gazes up at the ceiling in exasperation. Impossible. Both the Secret Intelligence Service and the Belgians reported him dead. Well, someone is mistaken. And we've heard from the Belgians again. They now think the initial report was incorrect. Amy's fall silent. If De Zita is alive, the SOE agents and Allied airmen alike remain at risk. But worse than that, it means the Nazis still have their highly effective henchmen at their disposal. And that threatens to be a another major obstacle standing in the way of Belgium's liberation.

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[Indra Varma]

From wondery I'm Indra Varma and this is the Spy who In the last episode, the Special Operations Executive initiated Operation Rat Week, a campaign of assassination targeting collaborators in enemy countries. But when the Belgian government in exile refused to approve the operation on its soil, Amy's antisection encouraged the Belgian resistance to carry out the hits. Unofficially, Amy's hoped the wave of assassinations would take out his nemesis, the Nazi collaborator Prosper De Zita. But now it's emerged the plan to execute De Zita failed and the man with the missing finger is still at large. And that means he's authorized threat to the SOE's efforts to prepare for the Allied invasion of Belgium. This is episode three of the Spy who Dressed the Queen. Reckoning Day January 1944 War Office London Amy sits at a conference table surrounded by various SOE department heads. They are being briefed on Operation Overlord, the Allied plan to invade and liberate Nazi occupied France. It has been a long meeting and the room is thick with cigarette smoke. The general who's leading the meeting turns to Amy's Overlord is focused on the liberation of France. But if we are successful, we will be well positioned to drive the Nazis from Belgium. Amy's nods. The fact is we cannot advance on Germany without first taking Belgium. Your department must Be ready. Lieutenant Colonel is the priority. Brussels? No, Antwerp. After the Normandy landings, we'll need control of a major deep water port to supply our advancing armies. Antwerp is ideal. It's closer to Germany than any of the French ports. It has not been destroyed by bombing raids. So assuming we can take it intact, it will allow us to bring in substantial amounts of supplies, fuel and reinforcements. Won't the Germans try to destroy it if they're forced to retreat? Precisely. T Section must coordinate the resistance, weaken the German stronghold and crucially protect the port until our troops arrive. Amies rubs his eyes. After months of playing defense in Belgium, his department is now being called upon to function as a crucial link in the chain that will help end this war. As the officers leave the room, the head of the soe, Major General Colin Gubbins, takes Amy's by the arm. Amy's. Did you get all that? Yes, sir. Loosen the German grip on Antwerp port, then protect it from being destroyed before our troops arrive. You'll need exceptional agents. Do you have anyone in mind? Anyone who is still available, that is. Amy's bristles at the jibe. It's true. T section has a long list of missing agents, but he maintains a polite tone. Yes, the agent codenamed Scipio. I don't think I've seen his file yet. What's his story? Real name, Philippe de Liedekerke. A Belgian aristocrat with deep roots in the country and access to influential circles. We trained him so we know he's good. And he is trusted by the Resistance too. So politically well placed for this mission. Next full moon I will have him on a plane. Sounds impressive, but will he have support? This is not a one man job, no matter how competent he might be. Yes. You've heard about Andre Wendolin, I'm sure. The chap who took a year to get back here. Amy's ignores the dig. He knows that Gubbins is under tremendous pressure to ensure that SOE succeeds at this critical moment. Trust me, Gwendolen and Liederkerke will make a formidable team. Together I will have them scout the defences at Antwerp, identify the weak spots and uncover any German plans to destroy the port. Good. One more thing. Tell the Resistance to limit their activities in Antwerp. We want the Germans to think the resistance is weak in the city. That way when the cavalry arrives, they'll be less cautious. And Amy's? Yes, sir. Don't blow this for everyone's sake. A couple of months later, on a rainy spring morning, Philippe de Liedekerke enters a local cafe and approaches the dock worker. He has arranged to meet here. The dock worker's eyes scan the room as Liederkerke sits next to him. This is dangerous business, monsieur. These blueprints you want. If they catch me, I will lose more than my job. High risk, high reward. Liedekerke slides a brown package across the table. There's a year's wages in there. Besides, think how much lighter you'll feel no longer having to hide these documents in your home. I'm solving two problems for you. The informant hesitates, then hands over a folder containing a sheaf of blueprints. The Germans don't trust us. But I watch. I see where they load their supply ships, where the officers meet. It's all in there. Good. Tell no one. Not even your wife. She knows better than to ask questions these days. The next day, at a Resistance safe house in the suburbs of Antwerp, Liedekerke unfurls the informant's blueprints. His fellow SOE agent Wendelin leans in for a closer look at the details of the key buildings and infrastructure in the docks. The operation hinges on the port. If we seize it intact, we give the Allies everything they need. But if the Germans destroy it first, God knows for how long this war will drag on. Then we ensure they don't get the chance. Here. The fuel depots, the dock gates. We take these. First we must control the cranes, the piers. The Germans will try to sever the supply routes, especially if they receive advance warning. We need to limit how many people know about the plan. We know De Zita is probably in Brussels. But he could have a mole right here in the Resistance. Wouldn't be the first time. Still, there is no avoiding it when the Allies begin their operation. We can't protect the port without the Resistance's manpower. We have to bring them in. A few weeks later. An abandoned house in the countryside a few miles outside Antwerp. Antwerp. An SOE radio operator sits cross legged at his radio transmitter. With a pair of headphones over his ears. He taps out a coded update from Liedekerke to Amy's in London, checking the message under his breath as he goes. Resistance units in Antwerp, ready for coordinated action, require immediate drops of arms, explosives, ammunition, priority targets, port facilities, supply depots, key intersections. The plan is coming together. Soon everything will be ready. The trick now will be ensuring the Germans don't uncover their plans. A couple of months later, July 1944. The Shell Building, Brussels. In a large Art Deco conference, Prosper de Zita is attending a meeting with other leading collaborators. They've Been gathered here for a briefing from one of Adolf Hitler's closest allies, Heinrich Himmler, the head of the Nazi Party's paramilitary wing, the ss. A few weeks earlier, Allied troops landed on the beaches in Normandy, northern France. Now the Allies are advancing through France. Rome, too, has fallen. Across Europe, German forces are in retreat. So Himmler has come to Belgium to direct efforts to halt the Allied advance and protect Germany itself from invasion. He issues orders to the assembled collaborators. You are to prepare to level the port of Antwerp. If the enemy breaches our defenses, you must use dynamite to topple the cranes, then blast holes in the sea walls. We must flood the port and render the docks useless. Then we can begin to stage our counterattack. Himmler turns to De Zita. You will support this work. Should the enemy take Belgium, you are to lead a resistance to sabotage the Allies efforts to advance. De Zita blinks in surprise at the order. The Belgian Resistance have already tried to assassinate him, probably with support from the British. If the Allies take Belgium, they will surely hunt him down and have him executed. His plan was to take his money and run. Herr Himmler, I am the wrong person for this. I believe my identity has been exposed. And we pay you to be brave, not inconspicuous. You pay me for results. I'm informing you that my ability to get results has been compromised. Still, if I were to say, yes, I take it, the rates would reflect the increased risks to my person. Himmler's eyes flicker with irritation at having to work with such a mercenary. You speak of risks. What do you think the Allies will do with the likes of you if they take this country? All those British airmen you merrily led into our hands as Captain Wilhelm, or whatever you called yourself? The British file on you could sink a battleship. This is in your interest as well as ours. You fool. Faced with such unexpected ire from a senior Nazi, De Zita quickly backs down. You misunderstand me, Herr Himmler. I only mean that organizing such a robust resistance will require significant funds. And my concerns about my identity having been exposed are only relevant in the sense they might compromise our mission. Naturally, Himmler nods sharply at De Zita's display of subservience. Then he signals to one of his deputies, who presents Dezita with two briefcases, each filled with American dollars. Here are your funds. Succeed in your mission, and we will provide you with new identities. If necessary, you will be able to live freely in Germany. De Zita scurries away with the briefcases. He knows with the SOE and the Belgian Resistance hunting Him returning to Antwerp represents a major risk. But what choice does he have? He owes the Nazis his freedom. But the bargain he struck in the prison cell is a debt he now realizes he will never be free from. Step into the world of power, loyalty, and luck. I'm gonna make him an offer he can't refuse. With family, cannolis and spins mean everything. Now you want to get mixed up in the family business. Introducing the [e-mail] test your luck in the shadowy world of the Godfather slots. Someday I will call upon you to do a service for me. Play the Godfather [e-mail] Welcome to the Family. 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[David McCloskey]

I'm David McCloskey, former CIA analyst turned spy novelist.

[Gordon Carrera]

And I'm Gordon Carrera, national security security journalist.

[David McCloskey]

And together we're the hosts of the Rest Is Classified, where we bring you brilliant stories from the world of spies.

[Gordon Carrera]

This week, we're talking about one of the most significant stories of the 21st century. Edward Snowden, and how he orchestrated the biggest leak of classified secrets in modern American and British history.

[David McCloskey]

Snowden revealed that the American government was mass collecting data on its own citizens. And it was really the first time that Americans and so many others around the world understood the extent of the US Government's mass surveillance.

[Gordon Carrera]

That's right. It's a story I covered at the time. And it also really gets to wider questions about what privacy means, how technology has changed our lives, and what the government and companies can do with data we might have thought was private.

[David McCloskey]

And we'll take you through the whole story, from Snowden's early career in the CIA and the NSA to his life in exile in Russia.

[Gordon Carrera]

So to hear more, search for the Rest Is Classified, wherever you get your podcasts.

[Indra Varma]

September 1944. It is three months since the D Day landings in Normandy. Allied troops are now fighting to liberate Belgium and closing in on Antwerp. And in inside the city, SOE agent Liederkerke and a group of resistance fighters creep towards the port, ready to support the coming attack. Up ahead, Liederka spots a German demolition crew planting dynamite around the base of a crane. From a safe distance, one of the Germans presses the plunger. A second later, the dynamite explodes. The crane topples slowly to the ground like a felled oak tree. Leader Kirke and his comrades break into a sprint, running towards the German position, their guns readied. On the dockside, another squadron of resistance members advance. A German soldier breaks from his defensive position, rushing to detonate the explosives that line the concrete walls holding back the sea. A resistance fighter takes aim at the soldier with his rifle and lets off two shots and quits itself. Both bullets strike their target at the sluice gate that prevents the sea from flooding the port. Resistance fighters chase the Germans who are moving in to destroy this crucial barrier. Behind them, a second group of fighters erect a metallic wall designed to protect the sleeves from flooding should the Germans take out the gate. At the Doc's telephone exchange, Liedekerke bounds up the external staircase to the control room. He carries a well rod pistol in his hand. He bursts into the control room, startling a German officer who's speaking into one of the receivers. Before the officer can call for assistance, Liedekerke fires off two rounds in quick succession. The officer slumps forward, the receiver dangling from its wire. With their guns raised, Leader Kerker and his men stand beside a bridge crossing the river that runs through the port. In front of them stands a group of German troops, their hands raised in surrender and their weapons discarded on the ground beside their feet. Liederkercher arrived just in time to prevent the group from destroying the bridge. Had the Germans been successful, the Allies would have faced delays in their advance. They would have needed to construct temporary crossings or find alternative routes. Antwerp port has been saved with only minimal damage. Hardy, Amy's and the agents of the SOE's Belgian section have completed their mission. The road to Berlin is clear. A few weeks later, Brussels. A British army jeep rattles across the cobbled streets of the Belgian capital. Buildings loom all around, many scarred by war. Hardy Amies, in an impeccably turned out uniform, sits at the wheel. After four years directing operations from London, the spymaster has finally arrived in war to horn Europe. Now that Belgium is free, T section has relocated its operations room to Brussels. In the seat beside Amy's, the famous fashion photographer turned chronicler of war, Lee Miller peers through the viewfinder of her camera. She occasionally takes shots through the open windshield, mostly of civilians picking through the rubble. Since meeting in Brussels, Miller and Amy's have bonded over their shared love of fashion and become firm friends. And as a favor, Amy's agreed to drive her around the city in search of some profitable images. After a while, Miller turns to Amy's. Strange, isn't it? This city so alive and so broken at the same time. Liberation always looks better in the newspapers than in real life. The jeep turns a corner as the distant sound of a tram bell echoes through the city. You must be glad it's over. Over. I spend my days pretending to smile at cocktail parties or in sad houses, shaking hands with grieving parents. The names of the missing never stop arriving. So many threads left dangling. And while he can't tell her, there's one thread in particular that's gnawing at Amy's Prosper de Zita. He's still out there somewhere, still unpunished, despite all he's done. Miller studies her new friend, then shifts her focus back to her camera. She captures a shot of Amy's, his face lined with fatigue. Miller lowers her camera. Would you introduce me to the resistance? Amy's hesitates, a frown forming on his brow. I don't think that's allowed. Miller smirks teasingly. Be a darling in check, won't you? Or even don't. Fine. I will. So once all those threads have been tied up, what's next for the great Hardy? Amy's stitcher of suits, master of spies? I want out. Out of the military. Out of the secret world. They'll want to send me to Germany because I know Germany. But I won't go. I want London. I want my old life. I need to move on. A few days later. Belgium In a front room of a small apartment, Amy's glances at the framed photograph on the mantelpiece. In it is the face of a smiling young man, a face of one of the SOE agents who died in the line of duty on behalf of the British government's efforts to set Nazi Europe ablaze. The war might not be over yet, but Amy's knows the families of the fallen deserve answers now. He tears his gaze away from the photograph, only to see the dead boy's mother fixing him with a stony gaze from the opposite couch. She is composed, but Amy's notices the muscles around her lips twitching. It is clearly a great effort for her to maintain her poise. I'm sorry but I cannot offer you any coffee. We have so little of everything. Amy smiles sympathetically, relieved to have something practical to focus on. Please don't apologize. We have all learned to go without. He realizes the double meaning of his words too late. Amy's watches helplessly as the woman dabs at the sides of her eyes. He feels freshly heartbroken at her determination to remain stoic in front of him. Your son was tremendously brave. Why could you not have better protected him? Where were you when he needed you? Amy's instinctively looks away, then forces himself to look back at her. He knows the answer. He was in London, behind a desk. The mother frowns at his silence. What difference did you make? All that cloak and dagger nonsense. In the end, the army liberated our country. Four years you spent sending people's sons and daughters to certain capture, or worse, whoever you work for. What did it change? Amy's does his best to reassure the woman that while the Official Secrets act prevents him from discussing details, her son's work made a great deal of difference. But her question still haunts him. What good did he really do? The woman straightens her silk handkerchief on her knee. She has said what she needed to. Then suddenly she stiffens again. Have you caught the man who did this to my boy? Him and all the others. Amy's looks at his feet. Not yet. But we are close. A couple of months later. December 1944 Brussels. A Belgian Resistance agent watches as a car pulls up at the rendezvous point. Despite several confirmed sightings, De Zita has so far evaded capture. Reports claim the Nazi collaborator remains active in liberated Belgium, leading anti allied operations in the country. In an effort to track down the collaborator, the agent has arranged for one of Deeta's accomplices to meet him here. It's a ploy, he hopes, to bribe the man into leading him to Deeta. But to the Resistance agent's dismay, an unfamiliar figure exits the car. The agent watches as the unknown man heads directly to the prearranged spot. Sensing a trap, the Belgian agent signals to three US Troops hiding across the road. It's the signal to move in and arrest Tazita's accomplice. But as the agent and the American soldiers approach, the man pulls out a revolver and starts firing at them. As the soldiers dive for cover, the man turns on his heel and springs down the road. Before the Americans and the Belgian agent can regroup, their attacker climbs into a second waiting car. Belgian agent watches in frustration as the car disappears into the distance. Once again De Zita and his gang have got the better of their pursuers. Now the trail has gone cold. January 1946 Eight months since the defeat of Nazi Germany. 14 Savile Row, London Former SOE spymaster Pardi Amies smiles in recognition of the customer who just walked into his fashion house. Emerson, so lovely to see you. How have you been? Amy's return to London from Brussels in early 1945. Soon after he was discharged from his wartime position and started his own high end fashion label, the House of Amy's. It's only just opened but has already become one of London's most admired fashion houses. My dear Hardy, I'm well, so glad to Read about all your success too. Not that it was in any way unexpected. Amy steps out from behind the counter. He places his hand on his former colleague's shoulder. I appreciate you visiting. For the past year, Amy's has worked hard to forget the war years, his memory of which is dominated by feelings of disappointment. Yes, Amy's helped lead efforts to prepare for the liberation of Belgium. But the loss of so many agents, some of whom did not survive the camps to which they were sent, and his failure to track down De Zita now haunt his dreams. Emerson idly browses a rack of sophisticated suit jackets. I now see why you were always so smartly turned out, Hardy. You are too kind. Belgium has certainly left its mark on my work. Emerson catches Amy's double meaning. He checks the store, satisfied there are no other customers or staff members within earshot. He lowers his voice. Did you hear? They shut us down. The former agents are not supposed to discuss soe. Its wartime operations remain classified. I'm sorry to hear that. No need for it now. So they say. Appallingly short sighted, if you ask me. Certainly. Where Stalin and his cronies are concerned, now the war's finished, the Soviets can hardly be classed as trusted allies. Amy's flinches. He has no interest in discussing the life from which he is working so hard to move on from. And yet he struggles to contain the urge to inquire as to whether his friend has any news about the hunt for the man with the missing finger. Six months later June 1946 Wurzburg, Germany Prosper Design is on his way home from his job as a car mechanic when Germany's defeat seemed inevitable, De Zeta went to ground. Since the end of the war, he has been living under a new assumed name, Wilhelm Trupert, a fake identity provided to him by the Nazis. He has told almost nobody of his past. The chaos of war gave De Zeta a role and a purpose where previously he had none. He had been motivated by money, but also perhaps belonging. Now he mostly spends his days fixing American army jeeps, ever available to work for whomever best suits his interests. For the past year, the Belgian authorities have continued their dogged pursuit of the man many knew as Captain Willie. The true number of SOE agents and resistance fighters who were captured and subsequently executed because of his deception efforts is unknown. But many of those he betrayed are confirmed to have been executed by the Nazis or to have perished in concentration camps. To further conceal his whereabouts, De Zita has been lodging with German friends. The family's maid opens the door and wordlessly lets him in, strides into the entrance hall. He feels relief that the maid, for once isn't being her usual chatty self and starts to remove his work jacket. But then he sees out of the corner of his eye, two uniformed men appear from the side room. Their guns are drawn and pointed at him. Leave your jacket alone. Place your hands on your head. You're under arrest. De Zita slides his arms back into his jacket, but does not yet raise his hands in surrender. Gentlemen, please. I don't know what this is about, but I do know you have the wrong man. We are officers of the Belgian State Security Service. Your name is Prosper De Zita. You are wanted for war crimes. Put up your hands. Now. It's over. The maid scuttles away. Like I say, you have the wrong man. My name is Wilhelm Troopert. The agents ignored Zazita's protestations. One grabs his arms while the other prepares to place handcuffs around Zita's wrists. I'm a mechanic. I can take you to the garage right now and we can clear this up. Then you can buy me a drink. By way of apology. One of the State security officers seizes and raises Dezita's right hand, the one with the missing finger. There is no misunderstanding. Two years later September 17, 1948 dawn. The Gendarmerie Barracks Excel, Belgium. Deite shakes uncontrollably as he disembarks from the ambulance it came to fetch him from Sangil Prison at first light. Several months ago, he was found guilty of working for the Nazis, betraying hundreds of airmen, SOE agents and Resistance members, many of whom were sent to concentration camps there. These men and women underwent torture. Many subsequently died. The court sentenced Dezita to death for his war crimes. The day for that sentence to be carried out has now come. As the Belgian guards lead De Zita into the courtyard, he sees a crowd of around 30 witnesses and the waiting firing squad. He collapses in a quivering fit of panic and fear. The guards attempt to lift him. In vain does eater refuses to stand or support his own weight. One of the guards fetches a wooden chair and places it beside his equal. The men haul him onto the chair, then carry the chair to the execution post. Stand face the pole, slowly rises. He places his arms around the pole while the guard ties his hands with a piece of rope so that he faces the wall. You will be shot in the back. The traitor's fate. The zeta says nothing. Three decades later 1977 the house of Amy's fashion house Savile Row, London it's the day of the silver jubilee, celebrating 25 years of Queen Elizabeth II's reign. Hardy Amy's and several colleagues are in his fashion house watching the live coverage on tv. On the screen they see a huge crowd has gathered outside Buckingham palace, many waving little Union Jack flags on sticks. The picture switches to the state gold coach carrying Amy's best known client. He leans closer, eager to see what the Queen has chosen to wear. Today the weather's colder than expected. Amy curses himself for not proposing something made from wool that would have better suited the temperature. He knows the chances of the Queen wearing one of his designs is slim. Inside the gilded royal carriage, they get a glimpse of the Queen. Amy's grips his colleague by the arm in shock. Goodness me. Her Majesty has chosen one of of Amy's designs, a bright pink silk crepe and chiffon dress. He feels a swell of pride. The image of the Queen wearing his design will be seen the world over. His dream has come true. In 1950, the Princesses Elizabeth and Margaret visited Amy's shop on 14 Savile Row. There they tried on numerous dresses. Queen Elizabeth II remained Amy's client for more than 30 years. He died in 2003 at the age of 93. Throughout his long and distinguished career in fashion, Hardy Amy's provided tailoring to numerous high profile clients, including the British artist David Hockney, the Hollywood stars Laurence Olivier and Gregory Peck, and the film director Stanley Kubrick. Despite publishing a memoir about his life in 1984, Amy's did not explicitly mention his involvement in Operation Rat Week nor the efforts to find a zita. Shortly before his death, he told a BBC documentary crew simply that he did not remember a thing about that. Amy's, however, was crucial in organizing and coordinating resistance efforts, particularly in sabotage operations against German forces. His ability to establish effective communication and supply networks contributed to the success of COVID actions that disrupted the Nazi occupation. The British government, however, has never publicly acknowledged this. And while Amy's role in Belgium's liberation earned him one of the country's highest honors, the Order of the Crown, his story remains broadly untold. Join us in the next episode as we look deeper into the complicated and multifaceted links between the intelligence community and the royal family. What counts as loyalty? What counts as betrayal? In the tangled web of deceit and power that binds these two worlds, Wondery subscribers can binge full seasons of the Spy who early and ad free on Apple podcasts or the Wondery [e-mail] We.

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Have you got a spy story you'd like us to tell? Email your ideas to the Spy who [e-mail] from wondering this is the third episode in our season, the Spy who Dressed the Queen A quick note about our dialogue we can't know everything that was said or done behind closed doors, particularly far back in history, but our scenes are written using the best available sources, so even if a scene or conflict has been recreated for dramatic effect, it's still based on biographical research. We used many sources in our research for this season, including From SOE Hero to Dressing the Queen by Linda Rowland and Still Here by Hardy Amies, as well as material from the National Archives. The Spy who is hosted by me, Indra Varma. Our show is produced by Vespucci with writing and story editing by Yellowant for Wondery. For Yellowant, this episode was written by Simon Parkin and researched by Louise Byrne with thanks to Ina Braws and Cat Whitehouse. Our managing producer is Jay Priest for Vespucci. Our senior producers are Ashley Clivery and Philippa Gearing. Our sound designer is Iver Manley. Rachel Byrne is the supervising producer. Music supervisor is Scott Velasquez for Frisson Sync. Executive producers for Vespucci are Johnny Galvin and Daniel Turkan. Executive producer for Yellowant is Tristan Donovan, our senior producer for Wondery is Theodora Luludis and our senior managing producer is Rachel Sibley. Executive producers for Wondery are Estelle Doyle, Chris Bourne and Marshall Louie.