Podcast Summary: The Treatment Room - Episode 153: Skincare Delivery Systems Deep Dive

Host: Tess, a licensed esthetician, double-certified acne expert, NASM health and nutrition coach, and skincare brand founder.

Release Date: June 28, 2024

Introduction and Personal Reflections

In Episode 153 of The Treatment Room, titled "Skincare Delivery Systems Deep Dive," Tess opens up about her personal summer experiences and the rejuvenating effect the season has on her. Settling into Orange County, she shares her daily routine of enjoying iced coffee, evening walks with her dog Chai, and the excitement of updating her skincare regimen for the warmer months. Tess invites listeners to suggest future topics, such as her summer skincare favorites, highlighting her commitment to engaging with her audience's interests.

Addressing Skincare Trends and Misinformation

Transitioning from personal anecdotes, Tess expresses concern over the proliferation of questionable skincare trends on social media. She states, “I have been seeing some absolutely wild trends on social media... bad recommendations can spread” (11:45), emphasizing the persistence and widespread adoption of these trends despite their dubious efficacy. Tess underscores the importance of discerning credible skincare advice from fleeting fads, noting that some trends persist longer than anticipated due to their viral nature.

The Science of Skincare Delivery Systems

Tess delves into the core topic of the episode: skincare delivery systems. She defines a delivery system as “a method that distributes active ingredients in a skincare product to the deeper levels of the skin where they can affect change” (15:30). Using an analogy, she compares delivery systems to roads or freeways, with active ingredients as cars needing pathways to reach their destinations within the skin.

Understanding Skin Structure

To elucidate the necessity of effective delivery systems, Tess provides a refresher on skin anatomy:

1. Stratum Corneum: The outermost layer composed of dead skin cells and lipid layers.
2. Epidermis: The living tissue beneath the stratum corneum.
3. Dermis: The deeper layer containing connective tissue.
4. Subcutaneous Connective Tissue: The deepest layer providing structural support.

She explains, “Our skin's main purpose and function is to protect us… skin is a mixture of protein, oil, and water designed to keep things out” (20:10). This protective barrier poses a significant challenge for skincare products aiming to deliver active ingredients effectively.

Types of Delivery Systems

Referencing an article from Skin, Inc., Tess outlines the three main types of delivery systems:

1. Intracellular Delivery: Active ingredients travel between keratinocytes into deeper skin layers.
2. Transcellular Delivery: Ingredients penetrate from cell to cell to reach deeper layers.
3. Trans-Appendagial Delivery: Utilizes openings like sweat glands, sebaceous glands, or hair follicles as pathways.

Factors Influencing Delivery System Efficacy

Tess identifies several critical factors that affect the effectiveness of skincare delivery systems:

• Concentration: Higher concentrations of active ingredients increase absorption, facilitating deeper penetration (30:45). However, she cautions that concentration alone does not guarantee efficacy.

• pH Levels: The pH of a product significantly impacts ingredient penetration. Tess explains, “The lower the pH, the more the product will travel into deeper layers of the skin” (35:20). She highlights the importance of pH in treatments like chemical peels, where low pH formulations are more effective.

• Molecular Size and Weight: Active ingredients with molecules under 500 Daltons can penetrate the skin more effectively. Larger molecules may remain on the skin surface, leading to potential irritation without delivering the intended benefits (40:10).

• Solubility Characteristics: Whether an ingredient is water-soluble or oil-soluble influences its absorption rate and the overall effectiveness of the delivery system.

Clinical Skincare vs. DIY Solutions

Tess contrasts clinically formulated skincare products with DIY remedies, such as using honey or banana peels. She argues that while DIY treatments can offer superficial benefits—like exfoliation from honey and sugar granules as used by Gypsy Rose ("...it might be better than doing nothing") (45:00)—they lack the sophisticated delivery systems necessary to enact deeper, transformative changes in the skin.

She asserts, “A product could have the most amazing active ingredients and vitamins in it, but if we can't get it to those deeper levels of the skin, it’s really only providing a superficial benefit” (50:15). Tess emphasizes that clinical treatments, backed by research and advanced formulation techniques, are essential for addressing serious skin concerns effectively.

The Value of Well-Formulated Skincare

Concluding the episode, Tess reinforces the notion that good skincare is both a science and an art. She highlights the extensive research, trials, and investment that go into developing effective skincare products. “Good skin care might be pricier, but at least you have more peace of mind in knowing when you are investing in those products” (60:05) Tess encourages listeners to appreciate the value of well-formulated products that have undergone rigorous testing for safety and efficacy, contrasting them with the unpredictable outcomes of DIY skincare.

Final Thoughts

Tess wraps up by reiterating the importance of understanding skincare delivery systems to make informed decisions about skincare investments. She invites listeners to share the episode on social media and leave reviews to support the podcast's continued creation of valuable content.

Notable Quotes:

• Tess on Skincare Trends: “Bad recommendations can spread” (11:45)
• Defining Delivery Systems: “A delivery system is basically just a method that distributes active ingredients in a skincare product to the deeper levels of the skin where they can affect change” (15:30)
• Importance of Skin Protection: “Our skin's main purpose and function is to protect us” (20:10)
• Effect of pH Levels: “The lower the pH, the more the product will travel into deeper layers of the skin” (35:20)
• Superficial vs. Deep Benefits: “It’s really only providing a superficial benefit” (50:15)
• Value Proposition of Clinical Skincare: “Good skin care might be pricier, but at least you have more peace of mind” (60:05)

This episode serves as an insightful exploration into the complexities of skincare delivery systems, empowering estheticians and skincare enthusiasts with the knowledge to discern effective products from superficial remedies. Tess's comprehensive breakdown bridges the gap between scientific formulation and everyday skincare practices, advocating for informed and deliberate skincare choices.