Podcast Summary: The Treatment Room - Episode 160: Acne Myths + Lifestyle Tips
Host: Tessa Zali
Release Date: October 11, 2024
Podcast Description: A podcast by an esthetician, for estheticians and skincare enthusiasts. Tessa Zali, a licensed esthetician, double-certified acne expert, NASM health and nutrition coach, and skincare brand founder, shares her expertise on business, the acne process, conversations with industry experts, and comprehensive skin wellness knowledge.
1. Introduction and Host Background
In Episode 160, titled "Acne Myths + Lifestyle Tips," Tessa Zali delves deep into common misconceptions surrounding acne and provides actionable lifestyle strategies to achieve clear, healthy skin. She begins by sharing insights into her journey, highlighting how the pandemic shifted her business model from in-person facials to a fully virtual acne care and corrective skin practice. Tessa emphasizes the importance of at-home skincare routines, customized topical treatments, and the integration of nutrition and lifestyle support in achieving sustainable skin results.
Notable Quote:
“I started my business when the pandemic hit and facials closed and people no longer had access to those treatments. [...] the majority of your results really come from what you do at home.” [02:30]
2. Myth 1: External Bacteria Doesn’t Affect Acne
Tessa challenges the commonly held belief among some professionals that external bacteria have minimal impact on acne, asserting that while acne originates within the pores due to clogged follicles, external bacteria can exacerbate the condition. She cites a study revealing that a pillowcase can harbor an average of 3 million colony-forming units of bacteria per square inch after just one week, significantly more than a toilet seat.
Notable Quote:
“The pillowcase is surprisingly one of the biggest influences I find in the lifestyle that can exacerbate acne.” [12:45]
Key Points:
- Acne starts within the hair follicle due to a buildup of skin cells, oil, and bacteria.
- External bacteria, such as Propionibacterium acnes, can worsen acne when present on surfaces like pillowcases.
- Practical Tip: Regularly change pillowcases, preferably nightly, using cotton washable materials to reduce bacterial load.
3. Myth 2: Acne is Not a Hygiene Issue
While acknowledging that acne is primarily a dysfunction of the pores, Tessa emphasizes that hygiene plays a crucial role in managing and preventing acne flare-ups. She debunks the blanket statement that poor hygiene doesn't cause acne, explaining that factors like dirty makeup brushes, frequent face-touching, and inadequate post-workout skincare can contribute to increased bacterial presence and inflammation.
Notable Quote:
“You do not have acne because you have bad hygiene. [...] But here is the thing: bacteria and hygiene is actually very important for an acne sufferer.” [25:10]
Key Points:
- Good hygiene practices, such as regular face washing and post-exercise cleansing, are vital in controlling acne.
- Environmental factors and daily habits can influence the severity and frequency of acne outbreaks.
- Practical Tip: Incorporate a consistent AM and PM skincare routine to manage oil, bacteria, and dead skin cells effectively.
4. Myth 3: Sensitive Skin is the Same as Acneic Skin
Tessa clarifies the distinction between sensitive skin and acne-prone (acneic) skin. She observes that many clients mistakenly attribute their acne breakouts to sensitive skin, when in reality, their skin is reacting to clogged pores and hormonal factors. Mislabeling skin type can lead to inadequate treatment approaches, as sensitive skin requires different care than acneic skin.
Notable Quote:
“Sometimes you can limit your results if you're overly stressing. To an esthetician, 'my skin is super sensitive' just because, like, you're thinking that's going to help me minimize my risks.” [38:20]
Key Points:
- Sensitive skin often reacts to products with irritation, whereas acneic skin deals with internal clogging and inflammation.
- Proper diagnosis is essential to tailor effective skincare routines without unnecessary restrictions.
- Practical Tip: Focus on acne-specific treatments and avoid conflating sensitivity with acne to optimize skincare results.
5. Myth 4: Moisturizer Makes Skin Lazy
One of the most persistent myths Tessa addresses is the notion that using moisturizer can make the skin "lazy" or hinder its natural functions. She vehemently disagrees, explaining the essential roles of moisturizers in maintaining the skin barrier, hydrating, and preventing trans-epidermal water loss.
Notable Quote:
“Moisturizer does not make the skin lazy. It doesn't slow collagen production, it doesn't inhibit your skin in any way.” [52:15]
Key Points:
- Humectants in moisturizers bind moisture to the skin.
- Emollients smooth the skin’s surface, reducing roughness and flakiness.
- Occlusives create a seal to lock in moisture, preventing dehydration.
- Neglecting moisturizer can lead to increased skin cell proliferation, dryness, and exacerbated acne.
- Practical Tip: Incorporate a suitable moisturizer into your daily routine to support skin barrier health and enhance treatment efficacy.
Additional Insights:
- Tessa shares before-and-after client examples, demonstrating how proper moisturization leads to healthier, more vibrant skin.
- Emphasizes the balance between exfoliation and hydration for achieving the coveted "glass skin" look.
6. Myth 5: Hormonal Acne is Solely Driven by Hormones
Tessa critiques the over-reliance on the term "hormonal acne," suggesting that while hormones do influence acne, other factors like blood sugar levels and insulin resistance play significant roles. She references a 2023 PubMed study indicating that 68% to 81% of acne patients exhibited insulin resistance, highlighting the need for a more comprehensive approach to acne treatment.
Notable Quote:
“Hormonal imbalance is also rooted in other aspects of our health. [...] blood sugar may be what is actually driving some of the hormonal imbalance.” [75:40]
Key Points:
- Hormonal fluctuations can contribute to acne, but addressing underlying factors like insulin resistance is crucial.
- High glycemic diets that cause blood sugar spikes are linked to increased acne severity.
- Practical Tip: Monitor and manage blood sugar levels through dietary adjustments, such as reducing simple carbohydrates and increasing complex carbs and proteins.
Study Highlight:
- A 2018 Stanford study revealed that even healthy individuals can experience significant blood glucose spikes from consuming high-carbohydrate breakfasts like cereal with milk.
- A 2023 PubMed study concluded that most acne patients have higher insulin resistance, recommending dietary and lifestyle interventions to manage acne effectively.
7. Integrating Nutrition and Lifestyle for Acne Management
Tessa underscores the importance of a holistic approach to acne care, integrating skincare routines with nutrition and lifestyle modifications. She advocates for reducing simple carbohydrate intake, prioritizing protein, managing meal timing, incorporating resistance training, reducing stress, and ensuring adequate sleep.
Notable Quote:
“I feel that nutrition is such a key component of managing acne, and that is why I wanted to make sure it was part of my practice with my clients.” [80:15]
Key Points:
- Dietary Adjustments: Limit simple carbs (e.g., white rice, pasta, bread) and increase complex carbohydrates (e.g., sweet potatoes, squash) and proteins.
- Meal Timing: Avoid eating right before bed to prevent blood sugar spikes.
- Exercise: Incorporate resistance training and activities like Pilates to enhance insulin sensitivity.
- Stress Management: Implement strategies to reduce stress, which can influence hormonal balance and acne.
- Sleep: Ensure sufficient quality sleep to support overall health and skin recovery.
8. Mental Health Implications of Aggressive Acne Treatments
Tessa highlights the detrimental impact that overly aggressive acne treatments can have on mental health. She shares observations of clients experiencing emotional distress due to persistent acne and painful skincare routines prescribed by some professionals. Tessa advocates for compassionate, balanced treatment plans that prioritize both skin health and mental well-being.
Notable Quote:
“For somebody who constantly dislikes what they see in the mirror and is constantly experiencing pain from their skincare routine, it can just take over your whole day.” [63:50]
Key Points:
- Aggressive exfoliation and harsh skincare protocols can lead to increased inflammation and emotional distress.
- Encourages open dialogue between clients and professionals to ensure skincare routines are nurturing, not punitive.
- Stresses the importance of listening to clients’ feedback and adjusting treatments to prevent negative associations with self-care.
9. Conclusion and Final Thoughts
Tessa concludes the episode by reiterating the necessity of debunking common acne myths and adopting a balanced, informed approach to skincare. She encourages listeners to prioritize barrier health, integrate nutrition into their acne management plans, and maintain a compassionate mindset towards themselves during their skin healing journey.
Notable Quote:
“It's a balance of pushing the skin in a healthy way and then also encouraging rest and repair ingredients that help to heal.” [68:30]
Actionable Takeaways:
- Regular Pillowcase Changes: Prevent bacterial accumulation by changing pillowcases nightly.
- Consistent Skincare Routine: Wash face twice daily to manage oil, bacteria, and dead skin cells.
- Moisturize Appropriately: Support skin barrier with suitable moisturizers tailored to skin type.
- Monitor Diet: Reduce simple carbohydrates, increase protein, and manage blood sugar levels.
- Holistic Health: Incorporate exercise, stress management, and adequate sleep into daily life.
- Seek Professional Guidance: Work with trusted skincare professionals to develop personalized, sustainable treatment plans.
Tessa invites listeners to join her virtual acne care program for personalized support and underscores the importance of building a healthy, informed relationship with one’s skin.
End of Summary