Podcast Title: The Treatment Room
Host: Tess, Licensed Esthetician and Skincare Expert
Episode: 161. All About the Barrier
Release Date: November 8, 2024
Introduction: Understanding the Skin Barrier
In Episode 161 of The Treatment Room, host Tess delves deep into the crucial topic of the skin barrier, an often misunderstood yet vital component of skin health. She emphasizes the importance of comprehending the skin barrier to effectively address various skin concerns such as acne, discoloration, and wrinkles.
"I really think the main way in which we can take care of our skin health is by understanding the importance of our skin barrier." [00:38]
What is the Skin Barrier?
Tess provides a comprehensive overview of the skin barrier, scientifically known as the epidermis or stratum corneum. She explains its primary functions and structural composition.
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Protection: The skin barrier shields the body from harmful substances like pollutants, pathogens, UV rays, and allergens.
"The main purpose is to protect you. The skin barrier is responsible for keeping harmful substances out of our skin." [00:38]
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Hydration: It prevents transepidermal water loss, maintaining skin hydration and a healthy, plump appearance.
"The whole goal of a healthy skin barrier is to minimize transepidermal water loss." [00:38]
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Nutrient Transport: Facilitates the movement of nutrients and oxygen to the skin cells.
Tess uses a relatable analogy to describe the skin barrier:
"A great visual for the skin barrier is thinking of it like a brick wall where the bricks are the cells and the glue-like substance in between the bricks is the lipid matrix." [02:30]
Layers of the Skin
She briefly outlines the three primary layers of the skin for context:
- Epidermis (Stratum Corneum): Outermost layer responsible for protection.
- Dermis: Middle layer containing connective tissue, blood vessels, and glands.
- Hypodermis: Deepest layer composed of fat and connective tissue, providing insulation and protection for internal organs.
"And there are three layers in total. Again, the top layer is the stratum corneum." [03:10]
Compromised Skin Barrier: Signs and Implications
Tess discusses the symptoms indicating a compromised skin barrier and the potential consequences:
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Symptoms: Dryness, flaking, dullness, redness, sensitivity, irritation, or a burning sensation.
"Symptoms would include possibly dry, flaking skin, dull skin, redness, sensitivity, or irritation like a rash or a burning sensation." [05:45]
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Implications: A compromised barrier makes it difficult to treat other skin issues and can lead to conditions like atopic dermatitis (eczema).
"When you have a compromised barrier, it's easier for those allergens to invade, leading to inflammation, redness, and itching." [06:30]
Common Causes of Skin Barrier Damage
Tess identifies several factors that can harm the skin barrier, urging listeners to be mindful of these to maintain optimal skin health.
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Environmental Factors:
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Pollution, extreme temperatures, low humidity, and UV exposure.
"Sunscreen is not seasonal; it's something you wear all year long to protect your barrier health." [08:15]
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Harsh Cleansers:
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Using soaps that are too alkaline can strip the skin's natural pH, leading to dryness and irritation.
"Many people tend to think, 'Oh, a cleanser is a cleanser,' but this is an important area to ensure you're using a PH-balanced cleanser." [10:00]
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Hot Water and Saunas:
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Excessive heat and dry air can deplete the skin's moisture levels.
"If your clients are frequently struggling with tolerating their actives, make sure they're not using water that is too hot on their face consistently." [12:20]
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Stress and Cortisol Flares:
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High stress levels and lack of sleep increase cortisol, which exacerbates inflammation.
"Stress can really add to inflammation. Also, getting a lack of sleep can increase cortisol." [14:10]
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Over-Exfoliation and Harsh Actives:
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Excessive use of exfoliating products or strong retinoids can damage the barrier.
"Actives are not the enemy. Actives are a primary way to strengthen our skin barrier when used correctly." [16:45]
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Supporting and Healing the Skin Barrier
Tess offers practical strategies to support and restore a compromised skin barrier, emphasizing the balance between active ingredients and hydration.
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Nutrition:
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Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Found in flaxseed oil, hemp seed oil, and fish oil, they reduce inflammation and improve skin hydration.
"Consuming oils rich in omega-3 fatty acids has the potential to improve skin barrier function." [20:30]
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Probiotics: Aid in immune regulation and enhance skin barrier proteins.
"Probiotics can decrease pro-inflammatory cytokines and improve skin hydration." [22:00]
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Environmental Adjustments:
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Avoiding Irritants: Use unscented laundry detergents, avoid smoke, and minimize exposure to harsh chemicals.
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Humidifiers: Maintain indoor humidity levels between 40-60% to prevent moisture loss.
"Adding a humidifier to your common space can support barrier function, especially in dry climates." [25:15]
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Skincare Routine Adjustments:
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Gentle Cleansing: Use PH-balanced cleansers like Tess's own Free Skin by Tessa Undo to avoid stripping the skin.
"My Undo has a PH of 5.3, so really close to your skin's natural PH." [29:00]
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Hydration: Incorporate hydrating serums with ceramides and lipids, such as Glymed Skin Recovery Mist and Glymed Protective Skin Serum.
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Moisturization: Apply moisturizers that provide a barrier, like Glymed Barrier Cream, and use occlusives like Glymed Cell Protection Balm to seal in moisture.
"I do love the Glymed Cell Protection Balm. It is the best occlusive I've seen on the market." [34:50]
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Selective Use of Actives:
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Introduce active ingredients gradually, customizing routines to each individual's skin tolerance.
"Creating a custom personalized routine is essential to ensure you're not compromising your barrier." [18:30]
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Lifestyle Modifications:
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Stress Management: Engage in self-care practices to reduce stress and support overall skin health.
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Sunscreen Application: Use mineral-based SPFs that are less likely to irritate sensitive skin.
"When you have a compromised barrier, mineral SPFs are better tolerated and less likely to aggravate the skin." [39:20]
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Recommended Skincare Routine for a Compromised Barrier
Tess outlines a step-by-step routine tailored for individuals dealing with a compromised skin barrier:
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Cleansing:
- Product: Free Skin by Tessa Undo
- Method: Use gently, possibly reducing to once daily if necessary.
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Toning:
- Product: Glymed Skin Recovery Mist
- Benefit: Applies anti-inflammatory ingredients without causing friction.
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Hydrating Serum:
- Product: Complex Serum
- Features: Contains helichrysum metallicum extract and antioxidants for calming and healing.
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Ceramide-Infused Serum:
- Product: Glymed Protective Skin Serum
- Purpose: Reinforces the lipid matrix of the skin barrier.
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Moisturizing:
- Product: Glymed Barrier Cream
- Function: Acts as a second shield, providing long-lasting moisture.
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Occlusive:
- Product: Glymed Cell Protection Balm
- Usage: Apply over moisturizer to seal in hydration, suitable for lips, feet, and hands.
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Mask (Optional, 2-3 Times Weekly):
- Product: Glymed Rejuvenating Peptide Mask (Rose Mask)
- Benefit: Provides additional hydration and anti-inflammatory relief.
"If you're dealing with a compromised barrier, even using a hydrating mask a few times a week can make a significant difference." [37:50]
Final Thoughts: Rapid Recovery and Ongoing Care
Tess reassures listeners that a compromised skin barrier is not permanent and can heal swiftly with proper care. She dispels the myth that skin damage from barrier compromise is irreversible and emphasizes the skin's remarkable ability to renew itself.
"Your skin cells are really great at rapidly renewing. Your skin barrier will heal itself, especially when you are young and healthy." [07:00]
Conclusion
Episode 161 of The Treatment Room serves as an essential guide for anyone looking to understand and maintain their skin barrier. Tess combines scientific insights with practical advice, offering listeners actionable steps to protect and repair their skin. By addressing both external factors and internal care, she provides a holistic approach to achieving and sustaining healthy, resilient skin.
Notable Products Mentioned:
- Free Skin by Tessa Undo (Cleanser)
- Glymed Skin Recovery Mist (Toner)
- Complex Serum (Hydrating Serum)
- Glymed Protective Skin Serum
- Glymed Barrier Cream (Moisturizer)
- Glymed Cell Protection Balm (Occlusive)
- Glymed Rejuvenating Peptide Mask (Rose Mask)
Additional Recommendations:
- Humidifier: To maintain optimal indoor humidity levels.
- Mineral-Based Sunscreens: Such as IS Clinical Extreme Protect SPF, Jan Marini's Physical Tinted SPF Face, and Cirella's Quench and Protect SPF.
For more personalized advice or product recommendations, listeners are encouraged to reach out to Tess during consultations or follow her on social media platforms.