Podcast Title: The Treatment Room
Host: Tess Zolli
Episode: 165
Release Date: February 14, 2025
Episode Title: It's Supposed to Be Slow: Why Acne Clearing Takes Time

Introduction

In Episode 165 of The Treatment Room, host Tess Zolli delves into a topic that resonates deeply with both estheticians and skincare enthusiasts: the prolonged journey of clearing acne. Tess emphasizes the importance of patience and understanding the underlying processes that make acne treatment a time-consuming endeavor. She intertwines professional insights with personal anecdotes to provide a comprehensive perspective on why acne doesn't vanish overnight.

Personal Journey and Empathy

Tess begins by sharing her personal struggle with unexpected adult acne, which struck in her twenties despite a previously clear complexion. She states:

"I felt like I was invincible until I was not." (00:35)

This vulnerability allows her to connect authentically with clients who may feel frustrated and disheartened by their persistent breakouts. Tess underscores the emotional toll of acne, acknowledging the daily dissatisfaction and mental burden it imposes.

The Pace of Transformation: A Fitness Analogy

Drawing a parallel between skincare and fitness, Tess recounts her experience with a personal trainer who reassured her during a slow period of her fitness journey:

"It's supposed to be slow." (03:15)

She reflects on the societal obsession with quick transformations depicted in online media, highlighting the often overlooked gradual and disciplined effort required for lasting change. Tess emphasizes that whether it's building muscle or achieving clear skin, sustainable results demand time, consistency, and perseverance.

Understanding Acne: The Scientific Breakdown

Tess transitions into the core of the episode by explaining the multifaceted reasons why acne clearing is inherently slow:

1. Skin Cell Turnover

• Explanation: The skin renews itself approximately every 28 days, depending on age.

• Insight: Even with optimal skincare routines, the natural cycle of shedding old cells and generating new ones inherently limits the speed of visible improvements.

  "Because of this process of cell turnover, we can kind of think of progress happening in cycles." (11:45)

2. Inflammation and Healing

• Explanation: Deep, painful pimples are manifestations of the body's immune response to acne as an injury.

• Insight: The redness and swelling indicate active healing, a necessary phase in pushing the infection out of the follicle.

  "This is your body trying to heal your breakouts and push this infection out of the follicle." (14:20)

3. Bacterial Dynamics

• Explanation: Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria responsible for acne, thrives in clogged pores.

• Insight: Reducing bacterial levels and restoring follicular balance with treatments like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid requires time to be effective.

  "It's going to take time to reduce the bacteria in the follicle and get your skin a little bit more balanced." (19:05)

4. Hormonal Influences

• Explanation: Hormonal fluctuations, whether from puberty, menstrual cycles, medications, or birth control, significantly impact oil production and acne severity.

• Insight: While lifestyle and skincare routines can be controlled, hormonal shifts remain a variable that estheticians must navigate, often resulting in acne management rather than outright cures.

  "Hormones fluctuate. So that is one thing that, you know, is a little bit out of our control and can be a reason that, you know, acne is not cured, it is managed." (24:40)

The Acclimation Phase: Adjusting to Treatments

Tess discusses the critical acclimation phase when introducing new acne treatments:

• Barrier Repair: Many clients have compromised skin barriers due to prior harsh treatments. Rehabilitating the barrier with hydrating and soothing ingredients is essential before intensifying acne treatments.

  "Most clients usually are not ready to start using their acne treatments every single day. It's going to take time to introduce that active to the skin." (27:10)

• Introducing Actives Gradually: To prevent irritation and support the skin's adaptation, active ingredients must be integrated slowly into the skincare routine.

  "Acclimation is a big reason it takes some time to clear. We are getting the skin healthier." (28:50)

• Consistency Over Quick Fixes: Tess stresses that effective acne treatments typically require 6 to 12 weeks to show significant benefits, and occasional setbacks like purging or increased sensitivity are normal.

  "Sometimes your skin might get a little bit worse before it gets better. Annoying? Yes. Normal also, yes." (32:15)

Setting Realistic Expectations

Tess emphasizes the importance of honest communication between estheticians and clients:

• Education: Properly educating clients about the expected timeline and potential skin reactions helps in setting achievable goals and maintaining trust.

  "A huge green flag when you're looking for an acne expert is somebody who is real honest with you, sets realistic expectations." (39:00)

• Avoiding Overpromises: Tess cautions against the allure of quick-fix solutions prevalent in social media, advocating for patience and adherence to scientifically-backed treatments.

  "I would rather trust somebody who is clear and upfront with me about the true honest length of time it could take to start seeing results versus the person that tells me this is going to be amazing." (41:30)

Key Takeaways

1. Patience is Paramount: Acne clearing is a gradual process that requires sustained effort and time.
2. Understand the Science: Knowledge of skin cell turnover, inflammation, bacterial activity, and hormonal influences is crucial in comprehending why results take time.
3. Consistent Routine: Adhering to a well-structured skincare regimen enhances long-term success over chasing immediate results.
4. Effective Communication: Estheticians should foster transparent and supportive relationships with clients, preparing them for the journey ahead.
5. Long-Term Gain Over Short-Term Fixes: Emphasizing sustainable habits ensures lasting skin health rather than temporary improvements.

"Progress isn't always linear. You might have setbacks, but it doesn't mean your routine or all the hard work you are putting into your new lifestyle isn't working." (44:10)

Conclusion

Tess wraps up by reiterating that acne treatment is not about overnight miracles but about consistent, informed, and patient effort. She encourages listeners to embrace the slow process, trust their skincare professionals, and remain dedicated to their routines for enduring skin wellness.

"It's supposed to be slow. If you don't learn to love the process, if you don't learn to appreciate what is happening slowly, slowly over time, it's really easy to lose steam and motivation." (07:10)

Final Thoughts

Episode 165 offers invaluable insights into the complexities of acne treatment, blending scientific explanations with heartfelt experiences. Tess Zolli effectively conveys that while the journey to clear skin may be slow and fraught with challenges, the rewards of perseverance and proper care are well worth the effort.

Listen to the full episode here.
For more skincare tips and discussions, subscribe to The Treatment Room on your favorite podcast platform.

Time Stamps:

• 00:35 – Introduction and personal story
• 03:15 – Fitness analogy
• 11:45 – Skin cell turnover
• 14:20 – Inflammation and healing
• 19:05 – Bacterial dynamics
• 24:40 – Hormonal influences
• 27:10 – Acclimation phase
• 28:50 – Introducing actives gradually
• 32:15 – Consistency over quick fixes
• 39:00 – Setting realistic expectations
• 41:30 – Avoiding overpromises
• 44:10 – Key takeaways

Keep glowing and stay patient on your skincare journey!