Podcast Host Tess (2:39)

Yes, it's so true. And I do get a lot of just requests like this from clients. Day one of working together. Oh, I just want glass skin. And you know, it sounds a lot simpler than it really is. How would you define the term glass skin?

Jan Marini (2:54)

Okay, so there's some specific areas. So number one, you have to have a very smooth stratum corneum. Now, your stratum corneum is this outside layer that's dead. It lays like shingles on a roof. It's supposed to be really organized. And so as we age, it gets thicker. We can get more into this, but when it gets thicker, it looks more textured. Pores are more obvious. The skin doesn't look as radiant, doesn't look as smooth. You know, a lot of times people get confused and they think, I don't want to thin my skin. Well, you don't want to thin your dermis. That's underneath that. That's 80% collagen. But this, you want to be really thin and compact. So if it's not reflective and compact, and that's what you see when you first look at somebody. So that's, that's number one. That's really important. Second one is pore size. So if you've got somebody that maybe they don't have acne or they don't have brown discoloration, but you can really see their pores, we don't consider that to be glass skin. Now, no judgment, but this is just factual on what would consist of glass skin. And pore size is about. Do you have retentive matter in your follicles? Okay, that's one thing. And that a lot of times people don't think of that as acne. That's mild acne. And the second thing about pore size is the dermis. So surrounds your follicle. If your dermis isn't really thick and robust, it's kind of like your Spanx. I've given out. Okay, Then there's managing imperfections. So if you have acne, you don't want to. It's not glass skin. If you look at somebody and you, oh, they're, they're, they're broken out. Or discoloration, brown discoloration, or fine lines and wrinkles or rosacea. Now, there's no cure for acne or discoloration or rosacea. We manage it. And you can manage it to where you don't see those imperfections. Then there's volume. So we've talked about this before, Tess, but I know you have people say to you, somebody's letting the air out of my face. And so you want that three dimensional volume. And volume can be as much as 50% of the aging process, because what happens is it's also fat and muscle. But as volume declines, this area of the face moves down like a pendulum and it narrows and you get wider down here and narrower up here. And the face flattens out and becomes more masculinized in facial appearance. And then there's diet. Diet plays a role too. So those are the things.

Podcast Host Tess (5:30)

Yes. Okay, so we have a lot to unpack.

Jan Marini (5:32)

Well, let's, let's talk about stratum corneum first. Okay. So again, as you age, those dead cells become disorganized. The stratum corneum thickens. There's a medical term for it called increased cornea site cohesion. And those cells can shrink, they harden, they cornify. Your skin can feel tight and dry. It's not necessarily really tight and dry, but, but also it looks thicker and it looks coarser. It doesn't look as refined. And so what we have to do is we need to resurface that. Now that's not using a scrub. A scrub doesn't know the difference between dead skin, doesn't know the difference between live skin. It's resurfacing, meaning we have to completely transform, reorganize those substances or those cells. And we also, in between those cells, and this is really critical, we have these hygroscopic substances, moisturizing substances. Now for short, we call them gags. The longer term is glycosaminoglycans. And what that is is mucopolysaccharides, ceramides, phospholipids, hyaluronic acid. And those substances are the main underlying factor that gives the skin volume and moisture and makes it radiant and also barrier function. Because different weather conditions, how we respond now, we lose those substances, they decline as we get older. Think about this. They're so plentiful in, let's say teenagers and children that they don't come home from school and go, oh gee, it's snowing outside, I need a moisturizer. Their skin just responds really, really well. But we start to lose those substances. It's not about how much water you drink. You should drink a lot of water because it's good for your kidneys. But, but the water is not what is moisturizes the skin. It's those substances. So we actually can stimulate those substances. Now here's where this all starts. With glass skin, this is a starting point. And this is a starting point for everyone. I don't care who you are. And it is the skin care management system, working with a real famous physician. If I'm working with a, a list celebrity, I've worked with a lot of, you know, big time influencers. I just worked with Someone, an actress a couple weeks ago that just finished a movie. So I can't talk about them. I can tell you one that's share. I always mention Cher because I've worked with her for years. But that's the starting point. And what the skin care management system does is it is your primary resurfacing tool. It also can go after so many of those imperfections. The skin care management system has a lot of technology in it, but that's the starting point. Okay, everyone, Now I'm also going to mention something else. Whether you're going for glass skin or whatever issue that you want to address, this is the question that Tess would ask you or the question you should ask yourself. If there was something you could change or improve about your skin, what would it be? I ask everyone this question. Now, your number one concern, maybe you break out. Maybe it's brown discoloration. It's fine lines and wrinkles, whatever it is. And then I'm going to say, well, what else would you like to change or improve? And I'm going to keep going until there's typically three or four concerns. Now, that's your starting point. That's your Runway. Think about how you'd feel about your skin if we address every one of those concerns. And to get glass skin, that's what you need to do. You should never put something on your face unless you know it's going to address one of those concerns. And I'll tell you, when I'm working with somebody, you know, a celebrity or something, and doing a consultation, I've never asked that question in 50 years and had somebody say, well, Jan, you know, my skin is flawless. It's perfect. I wake up in the morning, I look in the mirror. I have been walking the red carpet all night. I mean, I don't have a flaw. No one ever says that. No, everyone gives me three or four concerns or more. And so in my mind, I'm thinking, so how's Target working for you?

Podcast Host Tess (9:40)

Right.

Jan Marini (9:40)

You know, Macy's working for you.

Podcast Host Tess (9:42)

Not that good, probably.

Jan Marini (9:44)

So. So it's about addressing those. And no one, including me, no one needs another product. We need a solution. Okay, so that's where it starts. Now. So the. So the next thing gets to pore size. And again, I want to mention that pore size can be mild acne. A lot of times people say they don't have acne. They just break out once in a while or they have a few clogged pores. That is acne.

Podcast Host Tess (10:11)

I hear that all the time. People don't realize, they just think, oh, I have or closed comedones under the skin. But they don't recognize it as acne. That's right, yeah.

Jan Marini (10:26)

It's exactly the same process whether you break out once a day, 10 times a day, once a month. And clogged follicles are that process. Now I'll get more into acne in a little bit, but you have cells lining the inside of your follicle like you do out here, and they're shedding all the time into your follicle. Now we don't know why, but the beginning of the acne process is those cells stick together. And when they stick together and they keep sticking together, it's known as a microcomedone. Now microcomedone is microscopic and you could have perfect skin. It can just sit there and it can be dormant. And sometimes microcomedones are dormant for months or years. And then maybe hormones change or something else happens, your diet or your lifestyle, and it flares up. So it can kind of come and go, but there's no cure. Where it's just, it's just that tendency is gone. So that's the beginning. And when it sticks together and sticks together, the follicle dilates. And that's where we see the so called clogged follicle, open comedone, blackhead, etc. And then the other one has to do with collagen, surrounds the follicle. It's 80%. Your dermis is collagen. So it's like Spanx, nice tight collagen foundation around that follicle. And then as your dermis lessons, which again we'll talk more about as that D decreases, then it's kind of like your Spanx give out. Okay. And so the solution for that is going to be skin care management. It could be also duality. And duality is what really, what manages the acne literally can manage it to 100%. There's also, it's a, it's a dual chamber product. You know, there's two dispensers on top and you mix it together in your hand. But one of the chambers is retinoid. I'll get more into a retinoid. But a retinoid is a gold standard for acne or discoloration or aging or rosacea, those kinds of things. So sometimes with skin care management, when you have some mild or clogged pores, it just takes care of all of it. But that would be the next step. We call that an accelerator. And so you don't. You. You. You're not stuck with one. Accelerators, because you can have acne, you can have rosacea, you can have brown discoloration, you can have fine lines and wrinkles. So in the course of addressing all of that, it determines the various kinds of accelerators that you might be using.

Podcast Host Tess (13:04)

I know you've talked about this before, Jan, but could you again highlight. You know, with glass skin, it's reflecting because the pores are cleared out, right? Like, things are smooth, they're flat, the skin is hydrated. That's what.

Jan Marini (13:23)

That's. A stratum corneum is just so organized and it's reflective. Okay, I'll give you an example. So if I pull a hair out of my head, but don't have to. Your. Your hair has three layers, and it's the. The. The cutex, the cortex and the medulla. Now, the cutic. The cuticle. Excuse me, the cuticle. Not the cutex, the cuticle. Now, the cuticle is the outer layer, just like this is our outer layer here. If you bleach the heck out of your hair or you do something, what happens is it causes that cuticle layer to stand up. Now, what happens when it's standing up under a microscope, it looks all ragged, but in person, you don't have any shine.

Podcast Host Tess (14:07)

Yeah.

Jan Marini (14:07)

Okay, so what happens is when you have that cuticle layer laying down, then the hair reflects light. Well, it's the same thing with this. If you have a very organized stratum corneum, and the substances are plentiful and you. The cells are not building up. And by the way, when you get increased cornea site cohesion, there's studies that have shown that the more increased cornea site cohesion you have, eventually the more lines and wrinkles you're going to have. It signals. It signals different processes. So there's a reason why you want to keep this very compact, very thin and organized.

Podcast Host Tess (14:51)

Would you say when there's a lot of disorganization and the skin cells are piling up, it creates more inflammation and leads to more lines?

Jan Marini (15:01)

Well, it. It can because. So one of the things that causes this, 90 to 95% of what we perceive as aging, those kinds of things that occur, it's sun exposure. Now, if you go out in the sun and you're out in the sun even for seconds, what's happening is UV light creates inflammation. Now, being outside for five seconds isn't going to create a sunburn, but believe it or not, it does create a cascading effect of inflammation that affects all kinds of things. And so that is one of the primary underpinnings of why all these things kind of slow down. And we're going to get much more into depth with that. But in a sense, it's part of the inflammatory process. Yes.

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Podcast Host Tess (16:49)

Okay, makes total sense. So do we want to move on to the next acne? Acne, the big topic.

Jan Marini (16:59)

So real quick, we talked about the cells sticking together, right? And follicle dilates. That would be very mild. But here's what happens when it progresses into something that where you actually have eruptions, breakouts. So cells are sticking together, sticking together traps. See acne bacteria. See, acne bacteria is harmless. You can't catch it, you can't spread it. I have it on my skin. You have it on your skin. Doesn't matter how clear you are, you're not going to get rid of it forever. It's just there. Nothing you can do about it. Okay, so c acne bacteria gets trapped with the cells in the oil and it excretes a fatty acid byproduct because it eats the oil, likes the oil. And when it eats the oil, that byproduct causes your follicle walls to leak. Rupture, blowout. So if everything stayed in your follicle, you might have clogged pores, but you wouldn't get an eruption. Now, when your follicle gets a leak, a rupture or a blowout, depending on where it's going to break, then you're going to have a papillar pustule, a nodular menisis, which adult females get plagued with in this area or you have a full blown cyst. Now the full blown cyst will probably result in a scar because a full blown cyst is where the follicle blows up. The inflammation gets down in the dermis. And guys, when you go into your practitioner and you say, oh, I have scars, lots of time you're talking discoloration. That's not a scar. We can get rid of that. A scar is an injury to the dermis. So you end up with a compromised area. Boxcar scar, ice pick scar, rolling scar, something where the tissue is compromised. Now there's things we can do for that. Get your glass skin because when you have disturbed the dermis, when you have injured the dermis, if I cause you that dermis to thicken, which is what a laser does or what we can do significantly with what we're going to talk about, what happens is the scar looks less noticeable. Now can you completely rejuvenate scar tissue even with a laser? You can't. But you can make it look like the scar has diminished or disappeared. So but the discoloration, we can get rid of that. It just, it just takes a while now. So what we have to do is we have to introduce something in the follicle. Number one that keeps the cells from sticking together. That's going to be skin care management. Number two, we introduce something that goes after the C. Acne bacteria. Now this is really important. I'm a two time accutane failure. You hear me say this all the time. Okay, can look at my skin as close as you want. No pores you don't see. I don't have breakouts. You won't see me with breakouts because, because of what I do. And if I didn't do what I do every single night, I'd have a problem. So one of the biggest things with duality is the first chamber is benzoyl peroxide. But it's not moms or prescription or drugstore benzoyl peroxide. This doesn't dry the skin. And the benzoyl, this is a different, different type. But benzoyl forces peroxide in the follicle, it releases oxygen and C active bacteria can't live in oxygen. Now is it going to kill it permanently? No, that would be bacteriostatic. Excuse me? Bacteria cyto. So it's bacteria static. Meaning I have to kill it every single day. I keep the colonies down, doesn't eat the oil. Then you don't break out. So two things. Get those follicles. And let me tell you this is a very fast process. You hear it tests. People will say, after skin care management, it's my imagination. But the next morning, my, my pores look smaller, my skin looks smoother. And the breakouts, when you get the duality, it's amazing how quickly it starts to subside. It's not, you know, it's. Everyone is different. But it's not like how some people say to you, well, for every year you've had acne, it's going to take six months to clear it up.

Podcast Host Tess (21:07)

Oh, wow.

Jan Marini (21:07)

Come on. No, let me tell you, there are people who've completely stopped breaking out in the first two weeks. Now they have to clear up their existing lesions. And again, every situation is. Is less severe or more severe. But even some of the more severe cases that you think would be challenging will clear up faster than some of the situations where there's closed comedy acne. And the person doesn't think, they just think their skin is bumpy. So, okay, so, so now I want to switch from acne. So again, we have to manage it and we have to do it proactively because once you have a breakout, it's the end of the process. I can't, can't really do anything for that. It's not going to go away in the, in a day. So. But the next one is going to be having. How do we deal with sort of these signs of aging, with whether it is, you know, lines and wrinkles and all the things that we associate with that. Okay, so real quick, three definitions of aging. One, it's an inflammatory process. We're kind of all rusting to death. So inflammation, huge come in contact with UV light. That's inflammation. Second one is a loss of capacity and immune function in every organ in the body, including the skin. So if you're organs can't function or you hear about, for example, you hear elderly people, they get viral pneumonia and their body just can't overcome it and they die. Okay, So a loss of immune function capacity. And your skin is the largest organ of the body. People die of skin diseases. And the last one is a loss of instructions and memory in every cell in the body. So if your cells forget what to do, you're going to die. Now, the first thing I want to do is I want to talk about collagen, because this is really important. And then I'm going to get a little deeper into aging. Okay, so when you're around 18 to 20, you go into what's called a catabolic state. And what that means is you're fully cooked and you're kind of in a state of decline, even though you're not seeing it happen really rapidly. But you know, you start to notice little things here and there and it's also happening internally as well. And what's happening at this point, you're losing about 1 to 2% of collagen a year. More if you've been a sunbather, incidental sun exposure. Unless mom put a sunscreen on you from the time you were born, you never sat out by the pool, you never ever went without sunscreen. And even with sunscreen, you're still getting about 3% UV radiation, even with the best sunscreen. And so, and, and, and if you've ever done tanning beds, if you're a smoker, diet, lifestyle, you lose it faster. Now you hit 37 to 39 is perimenopause. Now I'm going to say something. It's not because you're in perimenopause, because everybody goes, oh, perimenopause made me this happen. If your hormones never changed, you're going to have this occur that I'm telling you, it just happens to be that sun exposure can take 10, 20, 30 years and more to show up. So you see it incrementally along the way. And that just happens to be an age that 37 to 39, your collagen is going to loss is going to speed up. Okay, then between perimenopause and menopause, which is around 49 to 51, it speeds up. And when you hit menopause, which is defined as you have not had a period for one year, you're going to lose 30%, another 30% and then it's going to be about 5 to 6% a year after that, eventually up about 85% and you're going to have look like there's a big sack that's wrinkled with a little head inside. So what we want to do is we have to keep that collagen really, really robust. Now glycolic acid thickens it by about 33%. This is not about topical estrogen. Estrogen, great internally for all the things that go along with menopause and things. But the studies show really good medical study shows that if you put topical estrogen on any skin that's been sun damaged, it does not activate collagen receptor sites. If you put it on skin like in between your thighs, up by your woohoo, where it's like, you know, really pristine skin, you can get some collagen Activation, but it's modest. Okay, so that's not a panacea. Now, so. So what. What the right retinoid does, which we'll get into, the right retinoid is going to thicken your dermis 50 to 90%. That's not picochinol. That's not some brutal thing. That's not something. This is. This is 50 years of medical research. This is a fact. Okay, now let's take it a step further, because this is really going to be the underpinnings of glass skin. So your genes are made up of DNA. Now, when we look at Tess, we see her hair color and we see her skin color and her eye color. That's DNA, is everything she is. She may have inherited a tendency to a disease, or she may have inherited a tendency to not have a disease. That's everything that makes Tess who she is. However, that's only about 20% of what's going to happen in your lifetime. The other 80% is up to us. However, our genes are made up of DNA, and so some of our genes are expressive genes. And what that means is those genes express out this information sheet. So think about this. This is my hardware, and this is my. In that instructions. Those. That's my software. Imagine if you had a computer and the software wasn't there or the software was corrupt.

Podcast Host Tess (27:06)

Yeah.

Jan Marini (27:06)

Would you get. Okay, so you're born and your software, your instructions, perfect. Now, from that point on, everything that baby does, everything that baby touches, everything I've ever touched, everything you've ever touched, it's in my DNA. Everything I've ever eaten, everything I've gotten exposed to, everything. You can't escape it. It's not selective everything. And so collectively, that's what makes up over time, that our software, so to speak, gets corrupt. Now, it doesn't show up right away because Mother Nature says, God, get this kid to where it's. You're in an anabolic state, and we got to get you where you can reproduce, and we got to get you fully cooked so you don't see the same opportunistic cancer or, you know, you don't see all these things that might happen more frequently with adults, but when you reach around 18 to 20, it's like a little switch goes over. And so now your body starts going, I can't repair as well. I'm. I'm. Those instructions are kind of corrupt. And it gets worse as time goes on.

Podcast Host Tess (28:19)

That young 18 to 20, 18 to.

Jan Marini (28:22)

20, that's when you go into your catabolic state just slowly declining. Yep, slowly. And you know, you just see little like again, even 20, 20 year olds are 21 or 25, they can see textural changes or they think that their pores are a little larger or things like that. And it's, that's, you know, you're starting to lose the collagen and you're not having the same hygroscopic substances and all of those things. So, and it's, it's, it's slow at that point and then it kind of, you know, it's, it speeds up over time. So what the right retinoid does, and this is so important guys, is that the right retinoid, not the drugstore, not the department store, this is what test would be able to offer to you, is that it? When you have receptor sites in your skin for retinoids. Alpha, beta, gamma. But it depends on how bioavailable that retinoid is to those receptor sites. It depends on what they connect with. Because the gamma receptor site in surface of your skin, about 90% of them are gamma. And they, they, they, they can make lots of collagen. Other receptor sites might have more of an effect on. There's a retinoid like tazoract that helps with psoriasis. I go on and on. But the right retinoid is going to correct instructions coming from your DNA. That's a medical fact. So if Tess has an identical twin sister, they have identical DNA, they both use the same skincare program. But Tess is using a retinoid, her sister is, and she's going to look 10 or 20 years young, younger, maybe more. So this is so, so critical. Plus sickle, staniforact and rosacea and discoloration and every, you know, all these things that we're talking about. Okay, so that's why that is so important. So that's going to be the system. And it could be retinol plus retinol xc. It could be duality because that has the retinoid. So you can address acne and you can address these things we just talked about. It could be luminate, which is the retinoid and technology for discoloration, which has actually been presented in the Journal of Drugs and Dermatology, the study, it outperformed prescription hydroquinone. But we can de age the appearance of skin at the same time, we can address these other issues. So this is any, literally anything that you can think of that would help you to get glass skin. It's in the arsenal. Okay, now the next Thing would be discoloration. Kind of talked about that. But I'll just real quick, bottom line, you have something in your ear. Stratum corneum, not stratum corium. Excuse me, epidermis called active tyrosinase. Now, active tyrosinase is necessary for us to make pigment. So whatever our skin color is, it has a lot to do with active tyrosinase. And if we didn't have it, we'd all be albinos. So active tyrosinase, when you go out in the sun and it's not, oh, if I've been in the sun for an hour, half hour, it happens instantly the minute you're in the sun that that UV light connects with active tyrosinase. And active tyrosinase starts to get stimulated. Now if it gets really stimulated, you produce a tan. And kids and teenagers and stuff, they tan and it's all nice and even and everything doesn't happen that way in adults. There's a lot more damage over time. But it's, it's the way of the act of tyrosinate is protecting you. And saying this is this UV light's really damaging. I'm going to make your skin darker. Doesn't mean it's saying, let's make it all nice and tan looking. It's saying it's damaged. And that damage is going to show up in a lot of uneven pigment and a lot of other things as time goes on. Now, even if you're outside for five minutes, a cascading effect takes place. It's an inflammatory effect that goes throughout all kinds of different cells and different pathways and everything. And this is much of what triggers a lot of the aging process. So 90 to 95% of what we think is inevitable is sun exposure. Okay, now what you need to do if you're going to even out pigment, manage it. You've got to down regulate active tyrosinase. That's number one. And then there's other things you have to do. You have to work. And we have technology in here that you won't find anywhere else in the world. You've got to work with the melanocyte stimulating hormone, which plays a role in your genetics and how you react. Some people react sitting in a hot car and their pigment gets worse. And there's a lot of other technology in there. So that's luminant. We can manage that. And sometimes it's really fast and other times it's more progressive, it's slower because pigment is very, very complex. And Then that's also combined with the retinoid, which is another gold standard again for discoloration. So it'd be the system. It could be luminant. Now it could be duality and luminant, because you can have acne again and discoloration. Everybody, by the age of 35, if you've got skin, you're going to have discoloration. Now, then there's rosacea. Now this is really getting complex and it really is different in different people. So we can make some generalities, but it just doesn't apply across the board. But here's what I'm going to tell you. The first thing everybody needs to know, this is really critical. It's not a disease of sensitivity. You could be very sensitive and not have rosacea. You can have rosacea, not be sensitive. Now you can be sensitive and have rosacea, but it's not necessarily because of the rosacea. Rosacea is a disease of reactivity and you are reactive to certain triggers. And those triggers are going to be typically. I'll give you the common ones. Alcohol, spicy food, maybe food that's hot. When I say hot. Temperature. Sugar is a big one. Not getting enough sleep. Oh, that frozens me up. Yeah, exactly. Stress. Yes, exactly. And, you know, not enough sleep. It's not just rosacea. It affects a lot of different things, but rosacea is particularly vulnerable exercise. And it's a disease of vasomotor instability. So imagine you go into a sauna, your face gets really red because your blood vessels expand, right? And then you come out of the sauna and they contract. Well, in rosacea, the blood vessels lose their ability to contract. So the redness is a result of what we call telangiectasia, which are expanded capillaries. They're not broken. They're broken. You wouldn't be able to see them. That's a misnomer. That's incorrect information. So it's. So it's a chronic inflammatory disorder. It's a disease of vasomotor instability. Now we have to downregulate the inflammation and we have to. You have to. Lifestyle is a big part of it. So, you know, test. You know, you can work with somebody and you can really help to manage it. And then they go out and decide that they're going to have, you know, eat. What's that Asian food that's like really, really hot Hunan or Sassuan or whatever. Anyway, or they, you know, they really react to red wine. And they have a lot. They have a weekend with a lot of Red wine and everything flares up. So you know, it's yoga too.

Podcast Host Tess (36:41)

A lot of throughout festivals.

Jan Marini (36:43)

I can't tell you how many times I have to tell somebody hot yoga is just does not not. It's not good for somebody that has rosacea.

Podcast Host Tess (36:53)

Not at all hard for people to understand because they think oh, saunas equal healthy. Hot yoga equals healthy, but not necessarily healthy for the skin.

Jan Marini (37:04)

You're so right. Because even if you're, let's say you don't have a tendency to rosacea, sun exposure is one of the main factors and some of these other things that we do certainly tempt the skin to be less resilient. If you're constantly challenging your blood vessels to expand and contract, expand and contract and spare skin, people are the most vulnerable because we're the most vulnerable to sun exposure. Now you can get rosacea. I've seen it in fair skinned African Americans, Asians etc, it's much less frequent. They have more built in protection. So we don't have the same built in protection. And so you know, you and I was a major sunbather in San Diego, which we knew. So all these things, all these things play a major role in, in the onset of rosacea. And the onset of rosacea is roughly on the average 35 to 50. Now it's not because oh that's perimenopause and menopause. No, it's because how many years does it take for the sun exposure to show up? So that's the range. Now it can be earlier than that. And I've had some.

Podcast Host Tess (38:27)

Pardon, what's the youngest you've seen rosacea present?

Jan Marini (38:31)

I've seen it, I've seen facial rosacea. In terms of what I have had In a study, 27, I think I might have had a 23 year old. But ocular rosacea, which, which affects, is affected. It generally accompanies facial rosacea, but it can be on its own and it affects about 47% of people that have facial rosacea. It sometimes it's referred to as blepharitis but it, if it's left untended in some individuals it can leave divineness and it's where the demodexomite, which is not necessarily implicated in facial rosacea. So we could get, we could spend a lot of time on this but the demodexomide, what it does is it burrows down into the eyelash follicles. You need to go to an ophthalmologist or it could be an optometrist, but they have to have a slit lamp or they can't see it. This very special type of magnification, kind of a yellow light. And what they do is they can see the demodexamite. And it's really interesting because it's burrowed into the hair fall and its little butt is sticking up. Now, they used to say when people were symptomatic, you know, sometimes people would wake up and their eyes would be itchy and very red and kind of crusty. And sometimes you don't have those symptoms, so you don't even realize that you have it. But they would say, I'll put hot compresses and things. Well, now there is an eye drop that you either put in the eye or some practitioners actually feel this even works better if you put it on your finger and just rub it on your lashes. But you do that for about six weeks, day and night.

Podcast Host Tess (40:05)

What's the eye drop called?

Jan Marini (40:09)

Begins with a D. It's a prescription that's really helpful.

Podcast Host Tess (40:13)

Not over the counter.

Jan Marini (40:15)

No, it's a prescription. And the last time that I checked on this, because my ophthalmologist was retiring, so I'm going to say within the last six months, it still had to be purchased through a specialty pharmacy. So oftentimes your insurance would approve it and then you would send away. It would come to you through the mail. It's probably going to be more widespread, but it was like Demo movi or something. I can't. If you look it up on the Internet. Eye drop for rosacea.

Podcast Host Tess (40:45)

I'm curious, because I do have ocular rosacea.

Jan Marini (40:47)

Oh, yeah. This is such an easy way to take care of it. Now, it doesn't mean that it's going to be gone permanently. You may have to do it periodically. Right. And I will tell you, I thought it was brilliant when he said, because I was. I had ocular rosacea. And he. At first, when he. Because he was just. I mean, I was one of the first people to use it. And he was saying, you know, you put it. You use it as the eye drop day and night. And then next time I saw him, he said, you know, put it on your finger and rub it on your lash. And actually that works even better.

Podcast Host Tess (41:19)

You know what's interesting, Jan? I was talking to my ophthalmologist, and she was saying she's noticing more ocular rosacea in people who've taken Accutane.

Jan Marini (41:30)

Interesting. Now, that's interesting. I'll tell you why it's interesting. Now, was that your ophthalmologist or optometrist.

Podcast Host Tess (41:36)

Ophthalmologist, because I had a terrible time with the ocular rosacea I had to wear. So there's these, like, contact lens. You can, you can. It's like a membrane that heals your eye. I had to wear that for a week. It's like this thick contact lens. It healed me up, but it was uncomfortable for a week.

Jan Marini (41:57)

I'll tell you why that's interesting, because I did a lot of research into this, because accutane can go after the meibobian glands. Now, the bebopian glands in the eye are what give it lubrication.

Podcast Host Tess (42:15)

Right.

Jan Marini (42:15)

However, paradoxically, one of the things that they use to treat meibomian glands to help them to function properly is a retinoid. Oh, okay. So it depends on the dosing of the Accutane. And sometimes it. It appears that it can be helpful, and other times it can create more of a dry eye condition. So it's kind of paradoxical. Now, as far as the demodex mite, I've heard in some cases it can be helpful, but again, for some people it might not be helpful and it might be more that the fact that it has the effect on the meibobian glands, which may make it your more. Let's say it's a better home for the demodex mite. That's possible. Now, I'll tell you guys, the demodex mite is not implemented in run of the mill rosacea because you hear this all the time and it's a persisting fallacy.

Podcast Host Tess (43:13)

Oh, you disagree?

Jan Marini (43:15)

So everybody has demodex mites on their skin. You have a few of them per centimeter, everyone. And what happens is the mites live about two weeks and then they die. And what they do is they give off this nasty toxin. Now, some people are very sensitive to that toxin and that toxic material. If we were all sensitive to it, we'd all have what's called demodex rosacea or demodex dermatitis. But only a subset are sensitive. The rest of them is run of the mill rosacea. That subset they have to use invermectin or chrodomitin, which is an insecticide. Okay, that takes care of it. But I'm going to tell you, it's not easy to go through because what happens is it kills them all at once. And so now they're all giving off toxins at once. So you look horrible until everything calms down. And some people, for example, with what I call run of the mill rosacea, you do a biopsy in the follicle. They're infested with Demodex mites and they have mild rosacea. And somebody else who has terrible rosacea because Demodex dermatitis and Demodex rosacea. It looks like somebody threw tomato sauce on your face. It's really, it's different. They have maybe hardly any infant infestation.

Podcast Host Tess (44:38)

You know what? That's what my eye doctor said when she looked at my eye. She said, you don't have many Demodex mites at all.

Jan Marini (44:46)

Yeah. So it, it, it really. And it has to do with that toxin that it gives off. So I'm not, I'm not reactive to. I don't have Demodex dermatitis, but I have been diagnosed with rosacea. It is, I manage it really, really well. The one, one of my main triggers, because I don't drink, I don't drink alcohol. I'm, I'm not, I stay away from sugar. I'm going to say sometimes, sometimes I, you know, I, I mess up. I stay away from sugar and I. Low carb because that increases your glucose tremendously. But the one thing that my skin is reactive to is exercise. I'm not going to stop exercising. Here's a little tip for people. It doesn't work for everyone. When you exercise, you keep an ice cube in your mouth.

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Podcast Host Tess (46:40)

That's good. Or everyone has those hydro flasks. What about just keeping a lot of ice in there and sipping on really cold water? Would that work?

Jan Marini (46:50)

It might. You know, you can kind of try that out. I find the ice cube kind of works for me. And also if I'm, I do more, I do more weights.

Podcast Host Tess (47:02)

Okay.

Jan Marini (47:02)

And I do more which they've actually shown. Yeah, is. Can be very equal to heart health as aerobic exercise. If I do a lot of intense aerobic exercise, it doesn't necessarily make me look more fit, but it can really exacerbate the rosacea because it's, it's, it's. It tends to excite that protein. So what, what's getting, what's getting triggered? I didn't say this earlier, but what's getting triggered is something called the kisalysidin protein. Now, that's an inflammatory protein, but you have to have it because it's used in wound healing. So you know how you cut yourself or something, and in the healing process, it gets a little puffy and it gets a little red. Well, that's part of the healing process. That's necessary. But if you don't cut yourself or you don't have a wound, that kisilicidin, which oftentimes is, is compromised because sun exposure. So you're producing it when you had a glass of wine, or you're producing it with exercise, or you're producing it again when you haven't had enough sleep. So that's what we're down regulating. That's, that's the underpinning for the majority of rosacea, not the demodexamider. Everybody would have rosacea.

Podcast Host Tess (48:23)

Good to know.

Jan Marini (48:24)

Yeah. Okay, so now we've talked about that. And then the next one is going to be volume.

Podcast Host Tess (48:31)

Hear that from clients. One was saying, you know, it seems like when I turned 35, there is like this marked difference in volume.

Jan Marini (48:42)

And, you know, we kind of. Sometimes we associate it with an age, but it happens. It depends on how much sun damage you've had. A lot of it. Now, it is fat, it's muscle, but it is also those substances between the cells. So when they decrease. And hyaluronic acid gives you a huge amount of volume. When you see babies, even underweight babies that look very plump. Yeah. Full and puffy, I call, I say they look juicy. It's because they have so much of these hygroscopic substances which decrease as we get older. And when you kind of see like people hit puberty and toward adulthood and you see their face get, you know, less baby shaped and it gets more angular. And it actually is a very nice look to a point. But when we get beyond that as adults, then we start to see again. It kind of swing forward like a pendulum. Now, this doesn't replace cosmetic surgery. You have to understand that. But it can give 3D volumization and this is a very unique type of hyaluronic acid. That's not superficial. Hyaluronic acid isn't everything. It is a large molecule and acts like a sponge on the skin. Kind of helps to provide some hydration. It's short lived. This is something that actually penetrates down in and collagen forms around it. So it's, it's like that's what also happens with injectables. Injectables. The hyaluronic acid doesn't give you the correction, it's the collagen. How much movement you have, it depends on, you know where it is and how much movement you have. Depends on how long it lasts. But we can, it doesn't replace injectables either but it can give you that overall more three dimensional, just bouncy look. And for a lot of people that are sort of starting to go into that loss of volume, it they really notice that at least for a period of time makes them very happy, makes them feel like their skin is just a lot more resilient looking and all of that. And then I want to mention again back to acne scarring. When you're thickening that dermis and imagine 50 to 90%, 33% which is glycolic. I got to tell you, Tess, I don't know if I mentioned this before but Dr. Rui, Dr. Van Scott and Dr. Rui Yu are considered the father of alpha hydroxy acids. Now they also patented lactic acid. That's where they were making their money because they licensed to Westwood for ichthyosis, a dry skin disease. They played around with glycolic but you know what they mainly use glycolic for? They contracted with the pharmacy or I don't know if they contracted but let's just put it this way. They were talking to doctors. They without, they weren't making any money on this but they were lecturing at conferences on glycolic acid peels. And they had a pharmacy in New York, I think it was called Crown that they had glycolic acid pills. The pharmacy agreed to stock some glycolic acid pills for doctors that wanted to use it. The reason why is because it was so extraordinary for acne scarring. It's not because the glycolic, these peels, they were doing a 70% peel. It's not because it was causing the skin to peel. It was because they were getting so much collagen. And consistent use of glycolic acid has been shown through biopsies. To produce as much or more collagen than a deep TCA peel. Wow. That's a 35 to 50% TCA peel. So originally, glycolic was really being embraced by physicians because it had extraordinary effects on acne, on the scarring, and when we're using it every day, again, 33% sickening. And then you've got your retinoid 50 to 90%. So it can be extraordinary on acne scars. And that's also why it's extraordinary on lines and wrinkles and those kinds of things. Now there's things that we can do adjunctively with all these different things. Okay. So we can, you know, we have exfoliating pads. We have. And by the way, the volume is Hila 3D Serum Cream. The mask, the lips.

Podcast Host Tess (52:58)

I love the mask. I love, love the cream. Those are some of my favorites.

Jan Marini (53:01)

I'm going to tell you something about the lips. This is not a lip balm. So what you do is I put a dot on my upper lip, I work it all the way around and I work it on the lip itself. It's for lip lines. Now it makes the lip look a little fuller and a little more upturned. That's great. But let me just tell you how well this works for lip lines. So I'll be 74 at the end of December. I don't have red lipstick on today, but I wore it most of this week. Doesn't matter how many hours I have it on, it doesn't bleed. Quick story. This last Friday, I take a day trip to where I'm moving. So it's just an hour there, hour back, leave at 10 in the morning, come back around 6:30, my 6:30. So I've got my lips, my red lipstick I wore that day, I've got it on since about, I don't know, 7 o' clock in the morning, whatever. And so the 6:30 flight was delayed and it was supposed to be it and then it got canceled. Then the next flight, which was going to be like 9 o', clock, got delayed and we didn't fly out until one o' clock in the morning. Oh, wow. So get to the airport after 2 o'. Clock. By the way, halfway through the flight I got really sick. Let's get to the airport. Don't get home until 3 in the morning. I was sitting on the stairs saying to my husband, I don't know if I can get up the stairs. And I've got, excuse me, this is, I don't mean to be crude, but I've got the barf bag from the airplane. Oh, no. So I won't tell you what happened after that, but it was not pretty. I get upstairs and I'm going. I don't know if I'm even gonna be. I gotta do my face. And I'm literally crawling into the bathroom. My lipstick was perfect, guys. And somebody says, well, what. What lipstick do you wear? It doesn't matter. Revlon, Bobby Brown, Charlotte Tilbury, Tom Ford lip gloss, whatever it is.

Podcast Host Tess (55:02)

That's pretty impressive.

Jan Marini (55:05)

That's Siesta Lips. But I've been using it for a long time. Excuse me. Highly used to call it CS lips, but highly 3D lips. And I've been using it for a long time consistently. And that's what it is. It's consistency. And it just makes this huge difference. Okay. So it's overlooked.

Podcast Host Tess (55:22)

And, you know, we drink out of straws. We move our lips a lot, so they do get a lot of expression lines.

Jan Marini (55:29)

And we do. They do. And I use a straw, but what I do is I kind of put it back. And I don't do it this way. I just sort of suck it from the inside of my mouth. So I never cross my lips. But you're right, we do a lot of, you know, smiling talking, particularly if somebody's a smoker. Okay. The last thing. Diet.

Podcast Host Tess (55:49)

Diet. Jan, I have to tell you something. I. I can't believe diet is still being debated as something that, you know, I'm seeing. Chemists, dermatologists, really knock the possibility of diet affecting skin.

Jan Marini (56:07)

Yeah, well, more and more, actually. There's more data that supports it, and there are more researchers that really are talking about this.

Podcast Host Tess (56:21)

Good.

Jan Marini (56:22)

And. And there's two components. One is, this is not. This is absolutely undisputed. Dairy plays a major role.

Podcast Host Tess (56:30)

Talk about why that. Why that isn't the specific study. Because I think I've told you this before. Dairy's really coming back with a vengeance. People like that. It's quote, unquote, the real thing, as opposed to processed plant milks. So, I mean, five years ago, you didn't see this, but now it's more common than not for people to be drinking dairy.

Jan Marini (56:55)

Okay, well, here's an interesting fact. I'm going to talk about the study and I'm going to talk about milk because it causes and exacerbates acne. This is a fact. Guess who sponsored the study? Of course, thinking that it was going to be wonderful. The Milk board sponsored it.

Podcast Host Tess (57:12)

Wow.

Jan Marini (57:13)

This is a study that was done on 47,000 nurses, repeated on their sons and daughters, and then 3,000 teenage girls and 3,000 teenage boys. And it was published in what I call the Mosby Blue Book, which is a monthly dermatology journal, which is the most technical dermatology journal. And the reason is not because we give hormones to cows. So it doesn't matter where you buy your milk, whole foods, wherever you want to go. It's because we milk cows when they're pregnant. So they're producing steroidal hormones. Now these steroidal hormones are in, in dairy, whether you have, you know, non fat milk, whole milk, 2% milk. But what can be worse is the whey protein. Now the whey protein is very concentrated, so it can have more of these steroidal hormones and, and think about whey protein. Most of your protein drinks, whey protein, you want to do collagen, pea protein, egg protein, your power bars, your, you know, protein bars. Whey protein is in so many foods as a filler. You got to pay attention to this and ice cream, all of those things. So I'm just telling you guys, this is a fact. It's a fact.

Podcast Host Tess (58:33)

Sorry, guys.

Jan Marini (58:35)

First of all, mostly, most, only a, a small percentage of the entire world continues to drink milk. We're the biggest milk drinkers in the world. From a anthropological nutrition standpoint, children were meant to be nursed probably until they were six or seven years old. And then you go into eating food and they don't get milk. Again, milk was not something that humans just consumed on a regular basis unless there was some kind of a reason why they couldn't get anything else. So we want milk, we drink milk our whole life. And some researchers would say, well, milk is designed to grow 3,000 pound cows. So there's just, there's a lot of research on this and it's not, it's not disputed. Now, if you want to drink milk, fine, but do it knowing that these milk and these different milk products and things like that can be a very major underlying cause with acne. Now, there's a second thing, and that's the glycemic load, okay? So the glycemic load is how much glucose gets dumped in your bloodstream. And when we look at, when we think of sugar, we think of it as being something that's very obvious, and that would be the glycemic index. Like a candy bar, you know, doesn't take a rocket scientist to say it's got a lot of sugar in it. But this is something that has to do with more with refined carbs that will actually turn into more glucose than what you would think is in them once they're processed. So it's like the analogy I use, piece of whole wheat bread. You eat that and you're getting more glucose into your bloodstream than the quarter cup of sugar. Okay? So what this is, is and sugar sticks to every cell in your body and it sticks to your dermis and it causes your dermis to decrease and harden and fibrous. And there's a study that shows when you eliminate or significantly lessen sugar, in two weeks you can have a 25% decrease in bad collagen. It can turn around that quickly. Now sugar is also an underlying factor in Alzheimer's, in diabetes and different types of cancer. There's a 40 year study on women heart disease, 40 years that shows the number one cause of heart disease is sugar. And do you know that 68% of Americans will die of heart related, some heart related factor. For women, heart disease is far more of a factor than breast cancer. So sugar is not good. Now this is not about controlling your calories or whatever. I'm, I'm, I'm very, if you saw me in person, I'm very slender. But I eat a lot of food. People don't believe how much food I eat, but I eat and I do eat meat. You need more protein as you get older, you don't have to eat meat. You know, get your protein someplace else. But I eat meat and I eat eggs and I eat chicken and I eat, you know, all different kinds of different meat. I happen to like meat, but I get a lot of protein and I get, eat a lot of vegetables and. But what I do is I keep my insulin levels nice and stable. Okay, so that, what, when your insulin levels, when you're dumping sugar into your body, what happens is your insulin levels are going like this. Now if you're a teenager, you can probably handle that better. Although prediabetes is rampant among teenagers because of how some people eat. But you want to keep those insulin levels stable. Now, not only for what I just said, but because when your insulin levels are going like this, and let's just say you go out and you have a nice pasta dinner and you eat garlic bread and then you have a nice dessert, your insulin levels are going to skyrocket. To take those insulin levels down, to keep them more stable, your body produces more testosterone.

Podcast Host Tess (63:07)

Yep, breakout low.

Jan Marini (63:10)

It's not just aging, it's, there's a relationship with acne, there's a relationship with all of that. And we could get into this in a lot more depth. And I talk about, you know, nutrition and aging and different things like that. And there's, it's a lot of anti aging strategies. But those two things are really critical. Two things. And that is your keeping that glycemic load down, keeping dairy, that type of thing totally.

Podcast Host Tess (63:38)

Oh, glycemic load. It's so underrated when it comes to acne, which is why I went into nutrition and added that certification because now I'm able to help my clients get their blood sugar more stable and just really give them a diet makeover. And I had one client asking me the other day, you know, people are, are all different with nutrition. Some people really take to it. Others they do crave exactly what you're saying. She, she's a foodie. She was like, I miss, you know, pasta, bread, all these indulgences. How long do I have to do this for? And you know, of course it's important to do for skin reasons. But I love that you also highlighted, Jan, that there's all these secondary conditions that can come up when your insulin is going up and down.

Jan Marini (64:29)

Well, one thing I want to mention, and for time's sake, we don't, I won't get into this in depth, but I want you guys to think of when we talk about how we eat, think about that. You have two circles in your body now. One of them is glucose, which would be carbs. And those kinds of things we fine carbs. And the other one is fat and protein. Now your brain loves glucose. And you're. When particularly if you're watching television and you see somebody talking about, you know, chips or whatever, and you, and you're sitting there and you're thinking, well, I could eat those. I mean, how bad can it be? Look, everybody else is eating them, but your brain is just going, yes, yes, because it's instant gratification. It gives you so much glucose and your brain wants that. Now it doesn't operate as well on that, but it wants it. And you have receptor sites in your body that are the same receptor sites as for heroin and for morphine. And sugar hits those receptor sites. So they're pleasure centers. Now you've got about 22 hours of stored glucose. So when you eat your big pasta dinner or whatever, or you eat a lot of refined, that's one of the reasons you crave it again in a very short time. Your body wants it right away. It doesn't have stores. But do you know that you have thousands of hours of fat and protein now, essentially what you want to do is you want to switch your brain and your body over and saying, okay, well, I really want to use up all that fat and protein. And it. Let me tell you, this is not easy. It is not easy. I have been there, done that. I've been really doing that now for a long time. But I've had times in my life where it's meh, you know, okay, because I'm, I'm a. I'm. I'm addicted to the glucose. So it doesn't take much to get me on going on glucose. So it, your brain is going to fight you, your body's going to fight you because it's just going to say, oh my God, I don't have any glucose left. I feel so tired. I can't climb the stairs. I just want to go to sleep. I can't do anything. So. But eventually what happens is you start burning that fat and protein. And for example, if you give a pig lots of corn and refined carbohydrates, it'll get all fat and it'll be, you know, a great pig for market and make ham. If you feed a pig fat, it'll get skinny. So we. What happens when you have the glucose and things? It doesn't pay attention to the fat and the protein and it stores that. You're using the glucose, you're storing fat and protein using the glucose, storing fat and protein. And this is one of the ways that people put weight on, even though it may not necessarily have to do directly with calories. So what we want to do is we want to train our body to use fat and protein. And when you do that, your brain actually works better, your body works better. Do you know, and I'm not suggesting that people do keto, but do you know, keto was actually goes back to about 1922 when they put people on keto because it actually helped to relieve certain types of epilepsy and brain diseases. Your brain wants fat and protein and we don't have time. But I could go into read Brain, Brain, Brain, Grain, Wheat Belly, some of these books that really get into, from a neurologist standpoint, gets into in depth about what happens and how your brain and the inflammation and the brain gut connection and all of that. And with the skin. So in fetal development, you have four cell divisions and one of them has to do with your brain and your skin and your gut. Another one might be your heart and something else. So that's where that connection is. But anyway, suffice it to say is that you will be healthier in general. You'll feel better, you'll be more active, you'll have a lot more energy if you can get where you're going after fat and protein. And you know, that doesn't mean you don't eat vegetables and things like that. I just, I had a quart and a half bowl of vegetables last night. I mean, when I eat vegetables, I ate a lot of them.

Podcast Host Tess (69:00)

Wow. Yeah, I mean, your metabolism is impressive, but it makes sense because you're high protein diet, you strength train, you eat enough food, all, all those things can help kind of retrain the metabolism. Well, Jan, this has been great. I hope everybody enjoyed this episode. I feel like we talked about so many things from nutrition to how to get glass skin. So let us know if you guys like this episode. Be sure to share it with a friend if you did. And Jan, thanks so much. This has been so fun, as always.

Jan Marini (69:35)

Thank you. I love, always love chatting with you and I love your audience and everyone. I wouldn't be here without you. And yeah, I know we're going to do it again.

Podcast Host Tess (69:45)

Yes, we can't wait. I mean, it's been a while since we've done podcast, so I'm excited to air this one.

Jan Marini (69:53)

Great. Well, thanks again. And I guess until next time, it's.

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Podcast Host Tess (70:25)

Experian, come next time.