Tall Stories 481: Hengermalom, Budapest

Summary

The Urbanist: Tall Stories 481 – Hengermalom, Budapest

Date: October 20, 2025
Host: Andrew Tuck (Monocle)
Story by: Alexey Korolyov
Main Guests: Daniel Girfi (Architect & member of VAYO NGO), Tama Shabraham (Epitez Studio), Gergo Papai (Filmmaker/Journalist)

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Episode Overview

This episode explores the transformation of Hengermalom, a historic flour mill on the banks of Budapest's Danube, from a decaying industrial site into a vibrant cultural hub. The narrative traces the mill’s architectural legacy, its central role in Budapest's industrial history, and its emerging status as a cherished "third place" for the local community.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Historical Significance of Hengermalom

• Roller-milling Revolution

  • Roller milling, replacing stone grinding, was a 19th-century technological breakthrough allowing finer, longer-lasting flour.
  • Championing this technology in Hungary was István Széchenyi, who built one of Budapest's first roller mills in the 1840s.

    “We like to say that the predecessor of this mill was the first of its kind in the whole region, actually the whole monarchy.” – Daniel Girfi (01:57)

• Site Relocation & Architectural Innovation

  • The original site, next to what is now Budapest’s Parliament, was moved further downstream in the early 1900s; the current Hengermalom site opened in 1911.
  • The buildings are significant, being among Budapest’s first made from reinforced concrete.

    "These buildings are really valuable because they were one of the first concrete buildings built in Budapest... not only an industrial heritage, but also an architectural heritage." – Daniel Girfi (02:23)

2. The Redevelopment Vision

• Architectural Conservation and Community Use

  • VAYO NGO aims to safeguard the site’s legacy, commissioned by a dedicated owner with a vision for inclusive redevelopment.

    "He's not one of these big Developers around us... all these new buildings are just looking the same, like steel and glass architecture, very cheap one, actually, without any sense of, you know, localness... they are really grateful that they have a place that's a third place..." – Daniel Girfi (03:00)

  • Intended as a "third place"—neither home nor work, but a shared social and cultural venue.

• Unique Context and Local Engagement

  • The architectural firm Epitez oversees the project. Tama Shabraham, a team member and nearby resident, provides a personal connection to the development.

    "Because the task is unique, the situation is unique." – Tama Shabraham (03:43)

3. Context in Today’s Budapest

• Surrounding Growth and Contrasts

  • Extensive new development around the site, including Hungary’s tallest building (MOL Tower), a rail line, and a recently completed stadium.

    "Around here, everywhere there are new office buildings. But if you look out on the other side of the Danube, there are still these industrial areas." – Daniel Girfi (04:20)

  • Some industrial heritage sites remain active, such as the city’s water filtration plant.

• Potential for Future Activation

  • There’s consideration of rooftop developments, currently used by “highliners” walking between buildings.

    "That's our plan in the future. For now, people who use this space are the highliners who just walk from one building to another every weekend. And it's very spectacular to see them." – Daniel Girfi (05:25)

4. Cultural Programming and Local Creatives

• Event Calendar
  • Since May, the site has hosted exhibitions, flea markets, and guided tours every weekend.
• Featuring Slow Films & Liminal Experiences
  • Gergo Papai, journalist and “slow film” documentarian, shares his perspective.

    "I'm searching for liminal spaces, those huge areas, the highways, the railways, the electric grids. I'm flying mostly with my drone. It's familiar, but you haven't seen it in this way, I guess." – Gergo Papai (06:18)

  • On the emotions invoked by capturing post-industrial landscapes:

    "Sometimes it's anger. Sometimes it's what you feel when you see something dying or have the feeling that something had been taken away from you." – Gergo Papai (06:36)

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Timestamps for Key Segments

• [00:49] Host introduction and episode overview
• [01:34] Emergence of roller milling and historical context
• [02:06–02:49] Move to new site, significance of reinforced concrete structure, and VAYO’s involvement
• [03:00–03:43] Daniel Girfi on the mill's value and intentions for the site
• [03:43–04:04] Tama Shabraham on local connection
• [04:09–05:21] Construction in the neighborhood; future plans for rooftop activities
• [05:49–06:53] Programming at Hengermalom and Gergo Papai’s artistic perspective
• [07:04] Girfi on creating a lasting community landmark

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Memorable Quotes

• Daniel Girfi:

  • "We like to say that the predecessor of this mill was the first of its kind in the whole region, actually the whole monarchy." (01:57)
  • "These buildings are really valuable because they were one of the first concrete buildings built in Budapest... not only an industrial heritage, but also an architectural heritage." (02:23)
  • "This is really valuable. They are really grateful that they have a place that's a third place that they can go around. It's not only workplaces or homes." (03:00)
  • "I think it's also important to create a good example of a process like this because usually these third places in Budapest are there for maybe three or four years and then something completely different gets built there. I think that's what we're working on to create something that's a permanent thing." (07:04)

• Tama Shabraham:

  • "Because the task is unique, the situation is unique." (03:43)

• Gergo Papai:

  • "I'm searching for liminal spaces... It's familiar, but you haven't seen it in this way, I guess." (06:18)
  • "Sometimes it's anger. Sometimes it's what you feel when you see something dying or have the feeling that something had been taken away from you." (06:36)

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Overall Tone & Takeaway

“Hengermalom, Budapest” intertwines the city’s industrial past with forward-looking placemaking. The speakers are passionate, candid, and deeply invested—both professionally and personally—in forging a model of sustainable, community-oriented urban regeneration. Their hope: that Hengermalom endures as Budapest’s rare, lasting "third place," celebrating both heritage and revitalization.

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Transcript

[IPUT Real Estate Narrator]

I Put Real Estate is Dublin's leading property investment company for almost 60 years a custodian of the city, embracing excellence in design, sustainability and occupier experience. More than that I Put understands that real change means transforming how valuable, vibrant and loved a neighborhood is. Discover how they build and invest. Head to I put.com now and and learn about their passion for their projects and their unique presence in Dublin. I put Creator of exceptional places Custodian of the City.

[Andrew Tuck]

This week we're in Budapest to visit a site that was once one of the city's largest flour mills. It stopped production in 2005, but this year it's been reborn as a lively cultural hub, hosting events every weekend from May through to mid October. The mill's stark concrete shapes, including the vast silos that once held grain and flour, still stand their ground even as new developments crowd in from all sides. You're listening to Tall Stories, a monocle production brought to you by the team behind the Urbanist. Hello, I'm Andrew Tuck. In this episode, Alexey Korolyov went to the Henga Marlum to bring us this story.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

In the 19th century, roller milling was the cutting edge of food production. It replaced old style stone milling and made flour much finer, which meant it could be stored for much longer. In Hungary, the technology found a champion in the nation's great reformer, Istvan secheny. In the 1840s, he built one of Budapest's first roller mills.

[Daniel Girfi]

We like to say that the predecessor of this mill was the first of its kind in the whole region, actually the whole monarchy.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

It stood on prime real estate, though so prime the city's famous parliament building was later put up next door. By the early 1900s, it was decided to move the mill further downstream. And it was this new site, opened in 1911, that would eventually become Henger Malom.

[Daniel Girfi]

Actually, from an architectural perspective, these buildings are really valuable because they were one of the first concrete buildings built in Budapest. It was made out of reinforced concrete in 1911. So it was a very early time for that technique. And for that it's also not only an industrial heritage, but also an architectural heritage with this special beams inside the buildings and this special construction method.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Daniel Girfi is an architect and member of vayo, an NGO dedicated to revitalizing Budapest's industrial riverfront. Henger Malom came into its sights last year.

[Daniel Girfi]

So actually we are commissioned by the owner. He's really enthusiastic about this concept and he also tries to make it work for everyone. He's not one of these big Developers around us. If you look around, all these new buildings are just looking the same, like steel and glass architecture, very cheap one, actually, without any sense of, you know, localness. So I think also for the citizens around, this is really valuable. They are really grateful that they have a place that's a third place that they can go around. It's not only workplaces or homes. It's a very top project in our office and in my personal life also.

[Tama Shabraham / Gergo Papai]

Because the task is unique, the situation is unique.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Tama Shabraham is part of the team at Epitez Studio, the architecture firm leading the redevelopment. By a happy coincidence, he lives nearby. He points out his building on an aerial photo of Henger Malom somewhere here.

[Tama Shabraham / Gergo Papai]

At least it's good for my personal era also.

[Daniel Girfi]

So I'm very motivated to be there.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Daniel Girfi takes me up to the rooftop of the main block overlooking the Danube. From here it's clear just how much construction is going on all around that stadium there.

[Daniel Girfi]

What is this stadium? Yeah, that's a brand new stadium. Actually, I think it was built in 2021 for the athletic championships, but it was originally planned for the Olympic project for Budapest. And they are building everything around this area. So here you can see the tallest building in Budapest, called the Mo Tower. It's the headquarters of the oil company in Hungary. A new rail line is being built underneath. And around here, everywhere there are new office buildings. But if you look out on the other side of the Danube, there are still these industrial areas.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

And are they still active operating?

[Daniel Girfi]

Yeah, most of them are. For example, that one is the water filter for Budapest. It's the biggest one. Maybe from a historical perspective, this is kind of a new part of Budapest. Also that part behind the bridge. This whole area was just undeveloped land. Up until maybe early 2000s, nobody lived in this area. It was just all industrial buildings, cool views.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

I mean, if you could also develop these roof spaces.

[Daniel Girfi]

Yeah, that's our plan in the future. For now, people who use this space are the highliners who just walk from one building to another every weekend. And it's very spectacular to see them.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Actually on this line. Yeah, no, but they have some safety installation.

[Daniel Girfi]

They have safety installation and they are professionals. But still, it's kind of frightening to see them.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Since May, there's been something on every exhibitions, flea markets, guided tours. In early October, filmmaker and journalist Gergo Papai was on the bill.

[Tama Shabraham / Gergo Papai]

As a civil person, I work for a Hungarian watchdog journal with focus on corruption and human rights and environmental issues. Next to it, I'm doing this slow film series.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

Popeye makes what he calls slow films about post communist industrial landscapes across central Europe.

[Tama Shabraham / Gergo Papai]

I'm searching for liminal spaces, those huge areas, the highways, the railways, the electric grids. I'm flying mostly with my drone. It's familiar, but you haven't seen it in this way, I guess.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

I ask him what he feels when he films them.

[Tama Shabraham / Gergo Papai]

I don't know. Sometimes it's anger. Sometimes it's what you feel when you see something dying or have the feeling that something had been taken away from you.

[Narrator/Interviewer]

It's the hope of Daniel Girfey, the activist, that this won't be the fate of Henger Malom. He believes its value to the neighborhood and to Budapest as a whole is simply too great.

[Daniel Girfi]

I think it's really valuable here that this building has a history. Also, there's a big value in not demolishing buildings. And I think it's also important to create a good example of a process like this because usually these third places in Budapest are there for maybe three or four years and then something completely different gets built there. I think that's what we're working on to create something that's a permanent thing.

[Andrew Tuck]

Tool Stories is a monocle production from the team behind the Urbanist. This episode was written by Alexei Korolyov and produced by David Stevens. Be sure to subscribe to the podcast to receive new episodes every week. I'm Ajituck. Goodbye and thank you for listening. City Lovers.

[IPUT Real Estate Narrator]

Iput Real Estate is Dublin's leading property investment company. For almost six decades they've owned and developed the best workplaces in Ireland, setting standards and attracting global capital to the Irish market. As a gateway to Europe, Dublin is a global centre for investment. I put leads the market by delivering innovative design led workplaces and public spaces that enhance the occupier experience and neighbourhood life. Their ambition to set new benchmarks in workplace quality, attract leading businesses to Dublin, all while delivering strong sustainable returns for their investors. Find out how they're building this Future. Head to IPUT.com now I put creator of Exceptional places Custodian of the city.