The Who What Wear Podcast: A Deep Dive with Claire Sullivan

Episode: Claire Sullivan on Modern Couture, the Glory of a One-of-a-Kind Piece, and Designing for Sarah Jessica Parker and Addison Rae
Release Date: January 15, 2025
Host: Lauren Egertson, Editorial Director at Who What Wear

Introduction

In this enlightening episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Lauren Egertson engages in a captivating conversation with Claire Sullivan, the visionary founder and designer behind her eponymous fashion label. Lauren introduces Claire as a trailblazer who transitioned from co-founding and co-creative directing the acclaimed fashion label Vacara in 2021 to establishing her own brand focused on creating immersive fashion experiences rather than mere outfits. Claire's innovative designs have graced numerous red carpets, most notably Addison Rae's viral look at the 2024 VMAs and the recreation of Sarah Jessica Parker's iconic Sex and the City Dior newspaper print dress.

Early Influences and Passion for Fashion

Claire Sullivan’s passion for fashion ignited at a young age. Reflecting on her childhood, she shares, “I basically came out of the womb ready to work in fashion. I'm, like, very cliché” (02:45). This innate love was nurtured by her mother, who taught her to sew at seven years old, leading Claire to create countless baby pillows. Growing up in Richmond, Virginia, where her family was entrenched in the medical field, Claire found solace and inspiration in the "fantasy" of the fashion world. Her early fascination with dressing up and characters, influenced by the old French film Gigi, fueled her creative aspirations.

Experience at Vacara: Learning to Break the Rules

Claire’s tenure at Vacara was transformative. She describes her time there as a period where she learned to "break the rules" (05:26). With a solid foundation from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Claire possessed strong technical skills. However, Vacara provided an environment that encouraged subversion and experimentation. “There was this energy of, like, subverting that and being like, well, what if we did it this way?” she recalls (05:26). Starting as an intern, Claire's dedication and talent quickly earned her a position as a co-creative director. This experience was pivotal, teaching her the importance of teamwork, collaboration, and building invaluable industry connections that would later propel her own brand's success.

Transitioning to Her Own Label Amidst a Pandemic

The COVID-19 pandemic marked a significant turning point for Claire. Faced with uncertainty, she and her team at Vacara realized it was time to pursue their own creative paths. Claire explains, “I left during COVID and I think Covid was sort of a time where, like, a lot of things came to a head” (07:03). Without a concrete plan, the decision to start her own label was both terrifying and exhilarating. A serendipitous project with her friend Tourmaline, where Claire crafted a custom outfit for a video shoot, sparked the genesis of her independent venture. This leap of faith underscored her commitment to continue making clothes she was passionate about, fostering joy and creativity in her designs.

Embracing Custom Couture: Creativity Unleashed

Transitioning from a structured role at Vacara to running her own label brought about a new level of creative freedom for Claire. She highlights the liberating aspect of custom couture: “There's something incredibly liberating about being able to make something that is custom for someone” (08:04). This approach allows her to focus intensely on individual clients, tailoring each piece to their unique personalities and styles without the constraints of mass production. Claire emphasizes the joy in creating bespoke designs that are both practical and artistically expressive, enabling her to delve deep into the narrative and energy of each client.

Signature Style: Drama, Volume, and Edginess

Claire's distinctive style is characterized by dramatic silhouettes, voluminous draping, bustling, and corsetry. She attributes this penchant for grandeur to her childhood "princess energy" and a desire to be a "main character" (09:18). This blend of romance and edginess infuses her work with a playful yet authoritative presence. Her designs celebrate movement and fun, reminiscent of her youthful days running around in tutus. This unique fusion ensures that her creations are not only visually striking but also imbued with personality and surprise, setting her apart in the contemporary fashion landscape.

Iconic Celebrity Collaborations

Claire Sullivan's portfolio boasts an array of high-profile collaborations that have significantly elevated her brand's visibility:

• Addison Rae's VMA Look: Claire designed Addison Rae's standout appearance at the 2024 VMAs, featuring a white satin bra and panty set paired with a dramatic bustle. Claire recounts the rapid development of this look: “We made that happen really fast. ... It happened really fast and it was like a beautiful moment for sure” (11:53). Addison's enthusiasm and bubbly personality made the collaboration seamless and enjoyable.

• Sarah Jessica Parker's Newsprint Gown: Claire recreated the iconic John Galliano-Christian Dior dress from Sex and the City for Sarah Jessica Parker's Vogue shoot. The tight timeline demanded intense dedication, leading Claire to pull an all-nighter to fulfill the request. “There was a tight timeline that there was no time to be afraid. It was like, we just gotta go” (14:35). The successful execution of this project garnered praise from Sarah Jessica Parker herself, affirming Claire's talent and versatility.

• Selena Gomez and Chloe Sevignier: Beyond Addison and Sarah Jessica Parker, Claire has dressed Selena Gomez for Vogue Mexico Chapel and Chloe Sevignier for the Met Gala after-party, among others. These collaborations not only showcase her range but also her ability to infuse her signature style into diverse personalities and events.

Personal Highlights and Meaningful Collaborations

While high-profile projects have defined Claire's public success, she treasures more personal collaborations:

• Shayla: Working with her friend and vocalist Shayla holds a special place for Claire. Together, they've created custom looks that are both personal and artistic, such as the intricate draped ensemble crafted during a five-hour studio session. These collaborations are described as “incredibly personal” and “spiritual experiences” (13:26) for both Claire and Shayla.

• Future Aspirations: Claire aspires to design couture for ballet or opera performances, envisioning her work within the realms of the New York City Ballet or similar institutions. She expresses a deep desire to extend her creative influence beyond red carpets to more classical and artistic venues.

Creative Process: From Ideation to Execution

When approached for a custom piece, Claire's process is both collaborative and intuitive. Depending on the client's clarity of vision, she may:

• Collaborate with Stylists: Often, stylists come with a specific vision in mind. Claire works closely with them to realize that vision, as seen in her collaboration with Addison Rae's stylist, Dara (16:21).

• Develop Mood Boards: For clients seeking guidance, Claire creates mood boards to establish the desired energy and aesthetic before moving to sketches.

• Iterative Design: The process may involve several iterations to perfect the design, ensuring it aligns with the client's personality and the intended narrative.

This flexible approach allows Claire to cater to a wide range of preferences while maintaining the integrity and uniqueness of her brand.

Maintaining Creative Flow: Personal Rituals and Self-Care

Acknowledging the challenges of the creative process, Claire shares her strategies for maintaining inspiration and overcoming creative blocks:

• Morning Routine: An “insane morning routine” that includes meditation, working out, and writing a gratitude list sets a positive tone for her day (17:05).

• Nature and Movement: Taking walks and immersing herself in nature helps reset her mind and rejuvenate her creativity.

• Self-Grace: Claire emphasizes the importance of being kind to oneself, particularly when not feeling productive. “I have to practice graciousness and remind myself that, like, I am not a machine” (17:05).

• Connecting with Others: Engaging with friends and colleagues provides emotional support and fresh perspectives, fueling her creative endeavors.

Future Directions and Brand Evolution

Looking ahead, Claire envisions her brand evolving to balance custom couture with greater accessibility:

• Maintaining Custom Focus: While expanding, she remains committed to keeping custom creations at the heart of her brand, ensuring each piece retains its unique essence.

• Expanding Product Lines: Claire aims to introduce products that are more accessible, allowing a broader audience to experience her design aesthetic.

• Artistic Endeavors: Beyond fashion, she expresses a desire to engage in costuming for ballet or opera, integrating her designs into more traditional artistic performances.

Claire remains dedicated to bringing her distinctive style to more people, striving to make high-fashion couture both exclusive and inclusive.

Closing Thoughts

As the episode wraps up, Lauren Egertson lauds Claire Sullivan's innovative approach and the profound impact of her work on contemporary fashion. The conversation underscores Claire's unwavering dedication to creating meaningful, personalized fashion experiences that resonate deeply with both clients and audiences. With a promising future ahead, Claire continues to push boundaries, infusing her designs with personality, drama, and a touch of whimsical elegance.

Notable Quotes

• Claire Sullivan on Starting Out:

  "I basically came out of the womb ready to work in fashion." (02:45)

• On Breaking the Rules at Vacara:

  "There was this energy of, like, subverting that and being like, well, what if we did it this way?" (05:26)

• Regarding the Transition to Her Own Label:

  "I left during COVID and I think Covid was sort of a time where, like, a lot of things came to a head." (07:03)

• On the Liberating Nature of Custom Couture:

  "There's something incredibly liberating about being able to make something that is custom for someone." (08:04)

• Describing Her Signature Style:

  "I have main character syndrome, so I love drawing and I love attention." (09:18)

• Reflecting on the Addison Rae Collaboration:

  "We made that happen really fast. ... It was like a beautiful moment for sure." (11:53)

• On Overcoming Creative Blocks:

  "I have to practice graciousness and remind myself that, like, I am not a machine." (17:05)

This detailed summary encapsulates the essence of Claire Sullivan's insightful discussion on The Who What Wear Podcast, highlighting her journey, creative philosophy, and the impactful contributions she's making in the world of modern couture.