Summary of "Costuming The Last of Us: Ann Foley on Apocalyptic Realism and Character-Driven Design"
Podcast Information:
- Title: The Who What Wear Podcast
- Host: Tara Gonzalez (sitting down with Ann Foley)
- Episode: Costuming The Last of Us: Ann Foley on Apocalyptic Realism and Character-Driven Design
- Release Date: June 18, 2025
1. Introduction and Background
The episode features an in-depth conversation between Tara Gonzalez, Senior Fashion and Social Media Editor at Who What Wear, and Ann Foley, the esteemed costume designer for The Last of Us Season Two. Ann Foley brings a wealth of experience from her extensive work in the superhero genre, including roles on Marvel's Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D. and She-Hulk on Disney. This season mark a significant shift for Foley, transitioning from designing for vibrant, larger-than-life characters to crafting the rugged, realistic attire necessary for an apocalyptic setting.
2. Foley's Journey into Costume Design
Ann Foley recounts her unexpected entry into the world of costume design. Growing up in Georgia and studying fashion merchandising at Georgia Southern University, Foley's interest was piqued when she visited a movie set with her then-boyfriend, a Production Assistant. Observing the legendary costume designer Julie Weiss at work on a period film ignited her passion for costume design. This pivotal moment led her to move to Los Angeles with the support of a family friend, Aggie Rogers, and ultimately embark on her career in the industry.
Notable Quote:
"I sort of fell into it by accident... It was one of those life-altering moments." — Ann Foley (03:04)
3. Transition from Superhero to Apocalyptic Costuming
Foley discusses her transition from designing costumes for superhero genres to the more grounded and realistic attire required for The Last of Us. She emphasizes her love for world-building, a skill honed while working on various sci-fi projects. The meticulous nature of superhero costuming prepared her for the complexities of an apocalyptic narrative, where clothing not only serves aesthetic purposes but also narrates the survival story of the characters.
Notable Quote:
"Every episode teaches you how to pivot on a dime, how to just move forward and not doubt yourself." — Ann Foley (05:27)
4. Joining The Last of Us and Enhancing Season One's Aesthetic
Ann Foley shares her enthusiasm for joining The Last of Us during its second season. Having become a fan before officially becoming part of the team, she was deeply influenced by the show's emotional depth, particularly the relationship between Joel and Ellie. The five-year jump in the narrative provided her the creative freedom to evolve the characters' appearances, reflecting their growth and the changing dynamics of their relationship.
Notable Quote:
"Ellie is a 19-year-old woman now... her palette changes to more blues and greens and starts matching Joel's." — Ann Foley (10:01)
5. Character Costuming and Development
a. Joel and Ellie's Signature Pieces
A central focus of Foley's design is the signature Flint and Tinder jacket worn by Joel. This piece symbolizes Joel's enduring strength and serves as a narrative tool to evoke emotions during pivotal scenes. Ellie’s black Converse, another signature item, reflects her pragmatic and resilient nature. The subtle shifts in their clothing—such as the slimming of Ellie's jeans and the tucking in of Joel's shirt—visually narrate their character development over the five-year period.
Notable Quote:
"When I read the script for episode three... I knew it had to be that Flint and Tinder jacket because everybody knows that jacket." — Ann Foley (32:59)
b. Dina’s Distinct Style
Dina's vibrant and colorful wardrobe contrasts with Ellie’s subdued tones, highlighting her effervescent personality. Foley meticulously curated Dina's outfits to reflect her optimism and resilience despite limited resources. The incorporation of pieces like the Aviator Nation rainbow jacket not only grounds Dina's character in the story but also adds depth to her role within the community of Jackson.
Notable Quote:
"When Isabella put it on in her fitting, it was one of those perfect moments where Dina came to life immediately." — Ann Foley (20:39)
c. Gayle the Therapist
Catherine O'Hara's character, Gayle, is portrayed with timeless and sophisticated attire, emphasizing her denial and underlying anger in the post-apocalyptic world. By choosing classic brands like Gap and Banana Republic, Foley distinguishes Gayle from other characters, underscoring her unique position within Jackson as a more composed and put-together individual amidst chaos.
Notable Quote:
"Gail's clothes... pretty timeless, so that it didn't stand out as something that just could have been purchased last week." — Ann Foley (26:41)
6. Designing the Infected Characters
Creating costumes for the infected was both challenging and exhilarating for Foley. She aimed to humanize these characters by giving each infected individual distinct clothing styles, hinting at their personalities before infection. This approach heightens the horror by making the infected more relatable and their transformations more impactful.
Notable Quote:
"Trying to give them their own little backstory... makes it scarier, because you're like, oh, God, that could have been me." — Ann Foley (37:58)
7. Collaboration with Actors and Storytelling
Foley emphasizes the importance of collaboration with actors to infuse authenticity into the costumes. By involving actors in the design process, such as allowing Bella Ramsey to doodle on Ellie’s Converse, Foley creates a deeper connection between the character and the attire. This collaborative process ensures that the costumes not only look good on screen but also resonate emotionally with both the actors and the audience.
Notable Quote:
"Every morning that Bella would put those on, they would see... that was between Ellie and Bella." — Ann Foley (25:12)
8. Practicality in Costuming
Balancing aesthetics with practicality is a recurring theme in Foley's design philosophy. Whether it's ensuring that Dina's outfits are both stylish and functional or making sure that Joel's iconic jacket can withstand the rigors of an apocalyptic environment, Foley prioritizes the believability and functionality of each costume piece. This approach ensures that the characters remain grounded and relatable.
Notable Quote:
"How is this costume gonna work with the requirements from the stunt department from VFX? You have to figure out all the puzzle pieces." — Ann Foley (23:29)
9. Special Costume Pieces and Behind-the-Scenes Details
Foley delves into some of her favorite costume moments, such as the Seraphites' custom ponchos and Tommy's shearling leather coat. These pieces not only enhance the visual storytelling but also provide subtle hints about each character's background and role within the narrative. Collaborating with concept artists and game designers, Foley ensures that these unique outfits align seamlessly with the show's lore and aesthetic.
Notable Quote:
"Every single Seraphite has their own custom poncho, with their own personalized seraphite symbol." — Ann Foley (40:29)
10. Personal Insights and Favorite Aspects
Ann Foley shares her personal affinity for durable brands like Carhartt and Levi's, humorously contemplating what she would wear in an apocalyptic scenario. Her practical choice of attire not only reflects her professional expertise but also underscores the importance of functionality in design.
Notable Quote:
"I became a huge fan of Carhartt and Levi's during this, so they were so comfortable and they still are." — Ann Foley (40:44)
11. Conclusion
The episode concludes with heartfelt thanks to Ann Foley for sharing her expertise and insights into the intricate world of costume design for The Last of Us. Foley's dedication to creating authentic, character-driven attire plays a crucial role in bringing the post-apocalyptic world to life, enhancing both the narrative and emotional depth of the series.
Notable Quote:
"Trust me, you'll want to snatch these up before someone else does." — Tara Gonzalez (41:22)
This episode offers a comprehensive look into the meticulous process of costume design in The Last of Us, highlighting how Ann Foley’s creative vision and collaborative approach contribute to the show's authenticity and emotional resonance. Whether you're a fashion enthusiast or a fan of the series, Foley's insights provide a deeper appreciation for the art of storytelling through costume.