The Who What Wear Podcast: Jewelry Designer Jean Dousset on 2026 Engagement Ring Trends and the Case for Lab-Grown Diamonds

Date: January 7, 2026
Host: Bobby Schuessler (Who What Wear)
Guest: Jean Dousset, Fine Jewelry Designer & Descendant of Louis Cartier

Episode Overview

In this episode, Who What Wear’s shopping director Bobby Schuessler sits down with acclaimed jewelry designer Jean Dousset. Renowned for elegant, custom engagement rings for celebrities and as a great-great-grandson of Louis Cartier, Dousset shares insights on launching his own brand, why he champions lab-grown diamonds, predictions for 2026 engagement ring trends, and practical tips for making jewelry uniquely personal.

Jean Dousset’s Jewelry Journey

[01:32–07:29]

• Family Background & Origins

  • Jean Dousset explains that although he is a descendant of Louis Cartier, he did not grow up surrounded by the Cartier business. “I wasn't raised crawling around the stores of Cartier...I just happened one day to receive an opportunity to interview for one of the famous French jewelry houses called Chaumet.” (03:00)
  • His spontaneous entry into the jewelry world was marked by awe for the artistry and history of fine jewelry.

• Career at Historic Houses

  • Dousset trained at premier houses: Chaumet, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels, absorbing traditional techniques and the importance of “ceremony” in luxury jewelry design and sales.
  • Memorable moment: “I started 30 years ago when I was a salesman. I had a big leather bound book where I wrote my sales with a fountain pen...That’s how traditional it still was.” (03:58)

• Launching the Jean Dousset Brand

  • Starting his brand “from a blank sheet of paper”, Dousset faced the challenge of making his own name. His connections helped: Eva Longoria and Tony Parker selected him for their engagement ring, bringing early publicity.
  • “I really started Jean Dousset from a blank sheet of paper in my house...I built it really one ring at a time.” (06:30)
  • Amy Adams’ “seamless halo” ring during her Enchanted era was a pivotal moment, showcasing his unique technique.

The Pivotal Shift: Lab-Grown Diamonds

[07:30–13:57]

• Motivation for Switching to Lab-Grown

  • Dousset explains the historic challenges of natural diamonds: high prices leading to client compromises. “We were constantly telling people what they could have instead of what they really wanted to have.” (08:25)
  • He noticed a turning point when the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) certified lab-grown diamonds identically to natural ones, with origin being the only difference. This validation, coupled with comparable brilliance and beauty, was transformative.

• Benefits for Clients and Designers

  • “Now I could tell people, you can actually have what you want. I’m not going to have to convince you that you need to buy a sub-quality diamond...You’re going to be able to enjoy diamonds at a level of quality where they should be.” (10:10)
  • Lab-grown diamonds provide creative and commercial freedom: larger, higher-quality stones at accessible prices open new design possibilities.
  • Sustainability matters: “As a society, we’re less and less inclined to dig into the earth...especially for something that is along the lines of vanity and accessory.” (11:52)
  • Caution for shoppers: not all lab-grown diamonds are equal—look for quality and trusted retail experiences.

Creating the Jewelry Experience: Flagship Showrooms

[13:58–15:21]

• Dousset’s New York flagship is inspired by traditional Parisian salons, intended as calm, luxurious spaces for personal, undistracted service:
  • “We sort of recreated a Parisian apartment in New York City...you can actually relax when you can focus on the moment.” (14:15)
  • French antiques and authentic details evoke heritage while serving a modern clientele.

Celebrity Influence on Engagement Ring Trends

[15:21–19:36]

• On Trends vs. Personal Taste

  • Celebrity engagement rings (e.g., Sofia Richie Grainge, Selena Gomez, Taylor Swift) grab headlines, but Dousset contends that historic shapes drive long-term trends.
  • “There are four or five main diamond shapes...round, oval, cushion, pear, emerald cut...These come and go and rotate. That’s the real trend.” (16:20)
  • Celebrity choices rarely sway customers dramatically: ring shape remains a very personal, often pre-determined, decision.

• Staying Classic

  • “The engagement ring in particular is that one piece of jewelry that typically you wear every day...it has to be timeless.” (17:30)
  • Most clients avoid taking chances; trends shift through collective “fatigue” more than sudden celebrity influence.

2026 Engagement Ring Trends & Expert Advice

[18:16–22:54]

• Trending Shapes for 2026

  • Ovals are the star: “Oval shaped diamonds have been the star of the show for I would say at least two, three years...it's still the number one best selling shape for us.” (18:29–18:37)
  • Rounds retain global dominance, but clients seek shapes that feel a bit more “personal and unique.”

• Personal Favorites & Quality Insights

  • Dousset’s personal favorite: large emerald cuts—“That is also...the cream of the crop of diamonds were emerald cuts.” (19:49)
  • Cushions and ovals also praised for their “soft, rounded” aesthetic.
  • Lab-grown diamonds have enabled 3-carat rings to become the new practical ideal, improving accessibility to size and quality: “Three is that right size that fits most of our lifestyles...it just checks all the boxes.” (21:20)

• Essential Fine Jewelry Recommendations

  • Dousset advises building a foundational collection starting with a tennis bracelet, a pair of diamond studs, and a simple pendant—classic, versatile pieces made more accessible by lab-grown stones.
  • “A pair of studs should be probably the first thing that you buy...You can wear it all the time and then from there you can sort of build up.” (22:10)

Looking Ahead: What’s Next for Jean Dousset

[22:54–23:55]

• Excitement for 2026: “I have been able this last year to design more collections than I have in the past 15 years...We are going to launch new collections using lab-grown diamonds, where they shine and some exploration.” (23:04–23:16)
• Dousset’s design philosophy: focus on diamond brilliance, minimized metal, and distinctive, original collections that stand apart. “It doesn’t look like anybody else because I don’t like to look at what other people do...I just would like to keep everything mine.” (23:24)

Memorable Quotes & Highlights

• On lab-grown vs. natural diamonds:
  “We are recognizing that these are two diamonds. They look the same, they behave the same, they just were created differently. That’s it.” (09:35)

• On why engagement trends shift:
  “The switch in trends come from fatigue more than like, whoa, like all of a sudden something just happened and everybody’s jumping off to that.” (19:14)

• On what jewelry pieces last:
  “Jewelry essentials would be my recommendation—great pair of studs, tennis bracelet...basic, you’re not taking any risks, you can wear it all the time.” (22:18)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Jean’s jewelry background: 01:32 – 07:29
• Lab-grown diamonds & benefits: 07:30 – 13:57
• Creating the luxury retail experience: 13:58 – 15:21
• Celebrity influence & engagement ring trends: 15:21 – 19:36
• 2026 trends, carat sizes, and advice for first fine jewelry investments: 18:16 – 22:54
• What’s next for Jean Dousset: 22:54 – 23:55

Tone & Takeaways

Jean Dousset offers candid, tradition-rooted, yet forward-thinking insight throughout—a blend of European luxury sensibility and modern, democratic accessibility. Lab-grown diamonds, elegant design, and timeless classics anchor his advice, making quality fine jewelry feel aspirational but attainable.