Episode Overview
Podcast: The Who What Wear Podcast
Episode: Live From the Sulwhasoo Skin Longevity Symposium! Featuring Cosmetic Chemist Ron Robinson and Beauty Expert Michelle Lee
Date: October 15, 2025
Host: Erin Johns, Who What Wear Beauty Director
Guests:
- Ron Robinson (Cosmetic Chemist, Founder of Beauty Stat, advisor to Hailey Bieber’s Rhode)
- Michelle Lee (Beauty Executive, Former Editor-in-Chief at Allure and Nylon)
Main Theme:
This episode dives into the concept of "skin longevity" and the science of ginseng, following the Sulwhasoo Skin Longevity Symposium in New York. Erin, Ron, and Michelle discuss cutting-edge research on ginseng, the philosophies underpinning Korean skincare, innovations in ingredient extraction, and practical tips for adopting longevity-minded routines.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Defining "Skin Longevity" (03:00 – 04:40)
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Ron Robinson: Skin longevity is about maintaining skin health over time, not just correcting issues when they arise. He observes a consumer shift:
"Now more and more so... it’s not just about correction for me. It’s how do I maintain my skin’s health and how do I create this lifespan with my skin." (03:20)
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Michelle Lee: The approach reflects a broader shift from intervention to prevention, mirroring changes in general wellness attitudes.
“I started to really... reframe my skincare regimen as truly skin care regime. Right. Like care being bolded and fully uppercase.” (03:36)
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Eastern vs. Western Philosophy: Korean and Japanese skincare have long emphasized prevention; this mindset is now catching on in Western skincare.
2. When Should We Start Thinking About Skin Longevity? (04:40 – 06:24)
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Michelle: Emphasizes age-appropriate skincare; basic sun protection and good habits early, more intensive care typically from the 30s or 40s.
“Getting enough sleep, staying out of the sun... is certainly part of [skin longevity]. But... probably in your 30s and 40s is when it would be really important to get serious.” (04:49)
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Ron: Agrees; young people don't need elaborate routines, just “cleanser, moisturizer, and sun protection,” but longevity thinking should start in adulthood.
3. Anti-Aging Rhetoric: Past & Present (06:24 – 08:48)
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Michelle: Reflects on Allure's 2017 decision to ban "anti-aging," noting progress in how aging is discussed and represented in beauty.
"We very famously banned the term anti aging... we truly sparked a global conversation about aging." (06:39) “Let's not say anti-aging, because we love aging... the fact that now we have this term [skin longevity] to really lead us...” (08:05)
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Society’s expectations are gendered—women face more pressure.
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Ron: Praises Sulwhasoo for pioneering skin longevity, backed by strong clinical results.
4. Ginseng as a Hero Ingredient & Scientific Breakthrough (08:48 – 12:35)
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Ron: Ginseng’s centuries-old medicinal history is now harnessed through new technology. Sulwhasoo’s innovation lies in isolating compound K and creating "ginsonomics" via bioconversion, making it vastly more potent in skincare.
“Compound K... is showing fantastic results around skin longevity.” (08:59) “Bioconversion technology... delivers compound K into the skin, actually 6,000 times more potent.” (09:54)
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Michelle: Shares personal/cultural connection to ginseng and excitement over modern research confirming its benefits.
“It’s almost like this magical ingredient like you expect in Harry Potter. Like a cure-all.” (11:18)
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Ginseng is flexible in skincare—safe for day/night, suitable for various formulations.
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Ron: Applauds not only efficacy but sensorial qualities and textures Sulwhasoo achieves.
5. Inflammation, "Inflammaging," and Skin Aging (13:22 – 15:19)
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Michelle: Personal anecdote connecting lifestyle-induced inflammation to skin issues; emphasizes the emerging scientific link.
“I completely messed up my entire skin barrier because I was so inflamed... I had this red, inflamed skin.” (13:36)
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Ron: Describes inflammaging as chronic, low-grade inflammation leading to premature aging.
“Inflammaging is a chronic always-on inflammation that... causes premature aging.” (14:55)
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Sulwhasoo's innovation: Isolating active ginseng to target inflammaging at its root.
6. Skin as Health Indicator & The Skin Barrier (15:19 – 18:16)
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Michelle: Skin as “check engine light”—an outward sign of internal health. Largest and most visible organ.
“Your skin is like your check engine light.” (15:44)
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Ron & Michelle: The barrier’s structure (cells, lipids, collagen, elastin) underlines why environmental and lifestyle factors are so impactful.
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Ron: Damage to the barrier accelerates aging; “poking holes” in the armor leads to visible damage.
7. Camellia Bioflavonoid & Skin Cell Senescence (18:30 – 20:13)
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New Research: Camellia bioflavonoid (from camellia seeds) found to reverse aging in skin cells by promoting collagen production—even rejuvenating “senescent” (zombie) cells.
“This idea of senescence... your skin cells kind of lay dormant sometimes. They don’t just die, but they are like zombie cells.” — Michelle (19:26)
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Ron: In placebo studies, topical application improved texture and luminosity in eight weeks.
8. Practical Tips for Skin Longevity (20:13 – 21:28)
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Michelle:
- Use ginseng (start with a serum)
- Basics: gentle cleanser, serum, moisturizer, sunscreen
- Lifestyle: sleep well, manage stress, healthy diet, avoid excessive sun, and accept some environmental factors can't be fully controlled
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Skin health is interlocked with overall health.
9. Key Takeaways & Closing Thoughts (21:28 – 22:50)
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Ron: Impressed by clinical evidence and innovation around ginseng’s efficacy for longevity.
“My big takeaway... this brand has been able to unlock [ginseng]... delivering on that skin longevity, which consumers are really interested in right now.” (21:43)
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Michelle: Struck by the fusion of tradition and modern science in Sulwhasoo’s approach.
“The fact that they then have merged a traditional ingredient with truly modern science... I am going to be bathing in it.” (22:04)
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
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“Let’s not say anti-aging, because we love aging... we have this term to really lead us in a direction of more addressing the root cause of what is causing skin conditions.” — Michelle Lee (08:05)
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“It’s almost like this magical ingredient like you expect in Harry Potter. Like a cure-all.” — Michelle Lee on ginseng (11:18)
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“Bioconversion technology... delivers compound K into the skin, actually 6,000 times more potent. It’s really effective in terms of providing that skin longevity, skin rejuvenation.” — Ron Robinson (09:54)
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“Your skin is like your check engine light. If something’s happening... it shows instantly on my skin.” — Michelle Lee (15:44)
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“Inflammaging is a chronic always-on inflammation that our bodies and our skin face, which causes premature aging.” — Ron Robinson (14:55)
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“Skin longevity is not about turning back the clock, it’s about setting ourselves up for the healthiest possible skin as we age.” — Theme throughout, echoed by all speakers
Timestamps for Key Segments
- 03:00 – 04:40: What is skin longevity?
- 04:40 – 06:24: When should you start thinking about it?
- 06:24 – 08:48: Rethinking anti-aging and women’s relationship to aging
- 08:48 – 12:35: Science of ginseng and Sulwhasoo’s innovation
- 13:22 – 15:19: Inflammation, inflammaging, and the skin barrier
- 15:19 – 18:16: Skin as a health indicator; visualizing the barrier
- 18:30 – 20:13: Camellia bioflavonoid and senescent cells
- 20:13 – 21:28: Practical advice for adopting skin longevity habits
- 21:28 – 22:50: Reflections and takeaways
Summary
This episode offers a rich, science-backed conversation about the evolution of skin longevity, the transformative power of ginseng (as wielded by Sulwhasoo), and the profound interconnection between overall health, lifestyle, and skin vitality. With expert commentary and relatable insights, listeners walk away with both cutting-edge knowledge and practical guidance for taking charge of their skin’s future.
